Need help with stormlake barrel for glock 22


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13FXSTC
June 16, 2012, 02:59 AM
I have recently purchased a stormlake match grade barrel, I purchased some 180 gr tc loaded to a 1.12 oal and low and behold it won't chamber! I used the redding push theough die and also have the lfc die. empty resized casings drop right in about a thousandth below the hood. Soon as I seat the bullet where the cone stops and the straight begins that hits the step the mouth is supposed to headspace off of. I believe the leade is a little to tight to let the bullet in there. I have measured everything, the chamber size is .4245 the barrel size is .4005 and the chamber depth is .8559. The only way I can get correct headspacing is seating dangerous deep as in 1.09. any suggestions? I left a message at sl tech dep but they were gone for the day. I truly believe the leade isn't cut big enough to let the bullet.in at the. A proper oal am I on the right track?

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blarby
June 16, 2012, 03:46 AM
#1, welcome to THR !

#2 : Suggestions and Questions for the Staff. Note - please post firearms questions in the appropriate forum, not here.

eam3clm@att.net
June 16, 2012, 07:09 AM
Are you removing the flare/crimping before you test the fit of the round, and is it a cast or jacketed bullet? I have a storm lake and when I load the lee 175 grain TC bullet I have to seat the bullet at a col of 1.098. I wouldnt say that it is dangerous as long as you adjust your powder charge and check for bullet setback. I have found that both storm lake and lone wolf barrels have tight chambers. Their stance has been in the past that that their barrels are not out of spec, only tighter that factory glock barrels. Loading for a new barrel is like loading for a new gun. You have to start over with the load and the first thing that you have to do is find out what the col has to be. You have found that now you can start load development.

13FXSTC
June 16, 2012, 09:01 AM
Sorry about posting in wrong forum new here and i was tired wont happen again. Thanks for the response to my question. But isn't the leade where the bullet is supposed to sit after being chambered? Thats where the different oal comes in so you can adjust bullet jump
Which as you know is a tuning aid. The way apparently both barrels are machined it all but takes that away. Maybe my thought process is on the wrong track but for what these barrels cost I understand tighter tolerance but enough that works like it should
Just my opinion. I'm going to move this poat to the firearm section.

beatledog7
June 16, 2012, 09:04 AM
Yes, what eam3 said. I have a Storm Lake G22 barrel also, and I sometimes have to seat bullets deeper than "spec" to get them to chamber. So I adjust my powder charges down to offset this.

How much down is pretty complicated to calculate; suffice to say I begin at the published starting loads and take away another 2-3% for every 5/1000 deeper than "spec" a particular bullet requires. But again, that's not an exact science. There are bullets out there (Hunters PHPs come to mind) with some really fat ogives.

To determine just how deep that is, set one to the published OAL and try the plunk test with your SL barrel. If it fails, mic the case mouth. If that's in spec, go a little (and I mean "little") deeper, and try again. If the case mouth is out of spec, that could be the culprit.

rcmodel and others recommended coloring a round with a Sharpie and chambering it to see where the color gets rubbed off. That's where the round is out of spec.

Walkalong
June 16, 2012, 09:11 AM
I truly believe the leade isn't cut big enough to let the bullet.in at the. A proper oal am I on the right track?

Perhaps.

Check it like this:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=506678

13FXSTC
June 16, 2012, 11:26 AM
I understand exactly what your saying. I have used the sharpie method and it works well that was how I confirmed where the round was hitting. I just think having to seat that deep is excessive. That's leaving me around 5-8 thousandths before the bullet ever touches the rifling. I'm pretty new to reloading and maybe I read to much but with anything I do I'm anal about making everything perfect so then if its wrong its me not the gun, bullet, Bow or arrow. Oh and yes the flair is gone, I've crimped from .422 down to .410 with the same result. Thanks for helping me I'm driving myself crazy here thinking about all the what ifs

Walkalong
June 16, 2012, 02:25 PM
driving myself crazy here thinking about all the what ifs
K.I.S.S.

It will save grey hairs. :)

.410 is too much crimp. In auto calibers like .40 that headspace on the case mouth we want to remove the bell or perhaps .001 more. (.000 on short cases & .001 on long ones).

Neck tension holds the bullet.

Just make sure all the bell is removed, and that's all.

beatledog7
June 16, 2012, 03:01 PM
I've crimped from .422 down to .410 with the same result.

Crimp is a very unfortunate name for what we do with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth. As Walkalong said, just straighten out the flare, assuming you even need to. In many cases (double entendre intended), either a) you can seat the bullet without any flare, or b) the act of seating the bullet straightens out the flare all by itself.

bds
June 16, 2012, 04:08 PM
I've crimped from .422 down to .410 with the same result.
Crimp is a very unfortunate name for what we do with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth. As Walkalong said, just straighten out the flare, assuming you even need to.
+1.

Most case wall thickness range from .011"-.012" and for jacketed bullets, I usually add .020" to the diameter of the bullet to determine my "taper crimp". So for .400" diameter jacketed bullet, I will use .420" taper crimp. This will essentially bring the flare back flat on the bullet or cause the case edge to dig slightly into the bullet surface but still allow the case mouth to head space on the chamber (see picture on the right).

For larger .401" diameter lead bullet, I will use even less taper crimp and apply .422" taper crimp so as to not shave the side of the bullet while seating (I seat and taper crimp on the same step - some will choose to seat and taper crimp separately for this reason because they are using more taper crimp than flat). This will apply a "neutral" taper crimp shown in the picture on the left.

Picture not to scale
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166372&stc=1&d=1339873688

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