45 colt roll crimp for hot loads?

I just got a new ruger blackhawk in 45 colt and was loading some hotter loads for it the load consists of starline brass, winchester lp primer, 25.7 grains of h110, nd a hornady 250 grain xtp bullet. I have posted some pictures of the roll crimp and was hoping if someone could tell me if it is enough to keep the bullets from backing out. Thanks Cody

It "looks" pretty good but the best test is to take your caliper to the range and measure the round left in the cylinder after shooting the other 5 rounds.

Thanks for the response. I was thinking of taking the calipers to the range also.

IMO both crimps look excessive with the second one being the worst. You will shorten the brass life by a lot with crimps like that and they are not necessary to prevent bullet pull. Back off a little and they will still work well. (IMHO of course)

Agree with archangelcd. Both look like too much crimp, to the point where the case mouth is curling back a tad. Might have a little bullet deformation there. So I'd also recommend you back off on the crimp.

Also agree the only way to know whether you're getting bullet jump is to measure the OAL of the last round in the cylinder.

Remember that case neck tension is more important than crimp in holding the bullet in place.

That load is likely a screamer. Even though it's at the starting end it's one of the heavy Ruger/TC/FA only loads. You might want to try some lighter loads until you get your crimp technique perfected.

+1 to much. Case length may be long too.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f96/Wireman134/45ColtOAL.jpg

Seat the bullets appropriately for whatever brass length you have.

The crimps look good. A bit more than I crimp, or is needed for standard .45 Colt loads, but if it needs that much to stay put, so be it. Testing will prove it one way or the other. You may find you can use a scosh less crimp, but perhaps not. Really depends on how "hot" you are talking about.

Looks to me like you're choking the life out of those bullets. I would back off and start with a light medium crimp and go from there.

Yup, I agree with the others.
Too much crimp is pushing the case back out at the very top.

Are you sure that's a roll crimp die?
Almost looks like you're trying to get a roll crimp from a taper crimp die.

I remove the belling of the cartridge by lightly rolling the case mouth to a crimp.

My sizing dies aggressively size the cases so when bullets are put in, there is a noticeable bulge in the case at the bottom of the bullet.

I rely on neck tension to keep the bullet in place.

In my 44 Mag's and 45 LC's with the hottest loads I have used, never had the bullet move within the case in a revolver.

For rounds in a lever gun, results might be different.

I am of the opinion that crimping will swage the bullet. Within the ranges I shoot handguns, and their inherent inaccuracy, (maybe I should say, my inherent inaccuracy with the things!) I really doubt I will see any inaccuracy due to movement of the center of gravity from the axis of rotation of the bullet. Still, I try to reduce the damage to the bullet I might cause by crimping.

Crimping can definitely swage a bullet, but proper crimping in properly made cannelures or crimp grooves in pistol calibers should not be.

Rifle is more critical. IMO. :)