Hogue AR-15 Question


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Biohazard1993
August 6, 2012, 11:25 PM
Hi, just another question for my fellow HighRoaders. I am buying a hogue ar-15 forend

http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_679&products_id=4632

for a carbine length barrel.(please no recommendations for changing forends as I know there are many other quality companies out their, I have just decided to go with Hogue.) Here is where my question lies, i want to get the forend extension,

http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_679&products_id=7905

but Hogue does not have any instalation instructions on the website.:fire: :cuss: I need to know what to remover/add so I can purchase it at the same time. ex. Do I need to remove the front sight/gas block and needs to have a railed front sight, how does it connect to the Hogue forend, does it even connect to the Hogue forend.

I have searched for reviews, help, and videos without any success and you guys are once again my last hope. Some pics of ar-15s with the Hogue extension or the instalation of the Hogue extension would be nice too. Thanks guys!

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awgrizzly
August 7, 2012, 01:44 AM
A lot depends upon the type of gun you have now, is it used or a build project, the barrel length, the type of gas system (carbine, mid or rifle), the type of muzzle break, and the type of gas block or front sight. If it's a new build it will be a breeze, but if it's a used gun it may be a nightmare.

The extension appears to screw into the end of the handguard. The handguard attaches to the upper receiver with it's own barrel nut, meaning the old one will have to go. If the handguard extends past the existing gas block/front sight, it will require a low profile gas block to fit under the handguard (perhaps a very low profile), and you might have an issue of where to install the new front sight.

Perhaps most daunting of all is that you will need to remove the barrel and the muzzle break. This could be easy depending on the gun, but will require a vice, upper receiver vise block w/insert, barrel wrench, a torque wrench, and possibly a proprietary wrench for the handguard (also some pin punches). If the barrel measures 16" including the muzzle break, the muzzle break will be pinned and welded. This might require cutting off the end of barrel which could then make the barrel too short. This would require a gunsmith or perhaps a new barrel.

awgrizzly
August 7, 2012, 02:04 AM
Looking a bit more I found this on the web site you linked for the extension, which pretty much shows how the thing installs.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/Grizzlyguy/15068L_01.jpg

The extension seems to fit between the receiver and the free float tube, which to me is interesting. It does require a micro low profile gas block which you can get from DPMS or Hogue. And the gas tube has to be specially bent to fit through their barrel nut. I see they have an end cap that provides rails which a front sight can attach to and a sling swivel.

Biohazard1993
August 7, 2012, 12:50 PM
It is a new S&W M&P 15. I won't have to worry about the barrel (16in with threaded comp) so this seams that it will be pretty easy. I can see why some people would not want an extended forend but I wonder why there are absolutley no pics at all on google/bing.:( Overall I think it will give it the look I am looking for without too much weight being added. :D Thanks for the help guys. :cool: another quicky though, how do I know which low profile gas block to purchase (they have two). Sorry just new to this platform.

kcshooter
August 7, 2012, 01:09 PM
Do I need to remove the front sight/gas block and needs to have a railed front sight, how does it connect to the Hogue forend, does it even connect to the Hogue forend. You're going to need a low profile gas block, and IIRC they screw right into the end of the Hogue handguard, just like a sunshade screws into a scope.

how do I know which low profile gas block to purchase (they have two).Depends on the barrel, that's the only difference.

303 hunter
August 7, 2012, 01:36 PM
I put a Yankee Hill free float tube on my AR 15 yesterday. Followed Larry Potterfield's video on the Midway USA website. Takes 30 min. with the right tools. You can also get the Hogue tube $30 cheaper from Midway than the link you provided.

Walkalong
August 7, 2012, 02:32 PM
I recently put a Hogue float tube on an upper I was swapping barrels on. (.223 to .300 BO) I had to remove the railed gas block that was on it and used this low profile gas block (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/240297/sadlak-low-profile-gas-block-ar-15-lr-308-750-inside-diameter-steel-matte) in its place, as I used a mid length float tube on a carbine gas setup.

You will need a strap wrench or a float tube wrench to install the Hogue. The wrench must have long "finger" to work. I used this DPMS wrench (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/497211/dpms-free-float-tube-handguard-wrench-ar-15-steel). One like this DPMS (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/762854/dpms-mil-spec-armorers-barrel-wrench-ar-15-steel) with short pins will not reach.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166773&d=1340413884

desidog
August 7, 2012, 02:39 PM
Wow. The prices on that Hogue website are absurdly high; i got the p-grip for 14 or 17 bucks, and they want 29!

OP, be sure to do some comparative price shopping!

Biohazard1993
August 8, 2012, 12:01 PM
yeah their prices are um... :barf: . I was just using the Hogue website as a point of reference. :D

awgrizzly
August 9, 2012, 01:30 AM
It is a new S&W M&P 15. I won't have to worry about the barrel (16in with threaded comp) so this seams that it will be pretty easy. I can see why some people would not want an extended forend but I wonder why there are absolutley no pics at all on google/bing.:( Overall I think it will give it the look I am looking for without too much weight being added. :D Thanks for the help guys. :cool: another quicky though, how do I know which low profile gas block to purchase (they have two). Sorry just new to this platform.
Use the gas block that matches the barrel diameter at the gas port (.750 or .936 inches shown for the two optional DPMS blocks).

KCShooter, it must be an extra low low profile gas block to fit under that tube, and it attaches to the barrel with pins or set screws, not to the handguard. Sorry, just wanting to prevent confusion.

kcshooter
August 9, 2012, 08:47 AM
KCShooter, it must be an extra low low profile gas block to fit under that tubeNo, the low profile gas block from DPMS as shown, the Sadlak low profile as used by Walkalong, or low profile blocks from YHM, MI, DD, or a number of others will fit just fine. They are all very low, but some refer to them as extra low, others as just low. It's just a name. The Troy is super crazy low, but they don't call it that. They just call it a low profile gas block.

and it attaches to the barrel with pins or set screws, not to the handguardI didn't say it did. I said the extension screwed into the handguard. I may have misinterpreted the question, but I certainly wasn't saying that the gas block attached to the handguards.

Walkalong
August 9, 2012, 09:06 AM
The tube doesn't clear by a whole lot. It limits what gas blocks you can use. Good news is they are relatively inexpensive. There is an adjustable one (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/775354/pri-low-profile-adjustable-gas-block-ar-15-lr-308-standard-barrel-750-inside-diameter-steel-matte) if you need that option.The Sadlak was a very tight fit. I had to polish down the barrel by 1 or 2 thousandths. Be sure to keep it square when installing. It can seem too tight when it isn't if you have it cocked sideways just a hair. Learned that years ago installing bearings in a motor shop.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166771&d=1340413877

Biohazard1993
November 10, 2012, 12:37 PM
hey guys thanks for the help, another quick question though. :o I want to convert my carbine from carbine lenth gas system to rifle. I know I need a different tube, but I noticed they have buffer tubes in rifle length... do i need one when i convert or is it a gimmick (i noticed there are not that many for sale) or can I keep my stock milspec carbine buffer tube? thanks.

Walkalong
November 10, 2012, 08:45 PM
You will need a new barrel with the gas port in the rifle position. (Farther from the chamber) Since the new barrel has the rifle gas port you will need a rifle length tube, unless you want the gas block and gas tube to show.

Biohazard1993
November 10, 2012, 09:17 PM
No i have a .750 bull barrel so all I have to do is slide the lopro gas block foward and install rifle gas tube so that is not a concern, but thank you. I was questioning the recoil buffer tube that the stock attaches to. I have seen rifle length ones but was wondering if it is needed or if i can get away with my carbine length buffer tube.

G.barnes
November 11, 2012, 06:49 AM
How do you just slide the gas block forward. There is only one gas port on a barrel.

kcshooter
November 11, 2012, 10:05 AM
Walkalong is correct, you need a new barrel. You can't just slide a gas block forward. Gas has to leave the barrel and enter the block thru a small port. The ports location in the barrel determines the length of the gas system.

The buffer tube you are asking about is unrelated to the gas system.

You can use one of the pigtail shaped gas tubes to get an equivalent length of a rifle gas system with a carbine barrel, but what you are proposing to do is not feasible.

Not trying to beat you up, but you obviously don't understand how this system operates. You need to learn more about this platform before you go any further.

MachIVshooter
November 11, 2012, 12:25 PM
if you want a different gas system, you need to change the barrel. Those pigtail tubes seem to create more problems than they solve.

If the barrel is still going to be 16", go with a midlength system. 18"+, go with rifle length.

However, if your rifle runs fine now and you're going to put a FF tube over the gas block anyway, why change the gas system?

If you're just looking to have less barrel sticking out, there is a simpler and more economical solution. It's the way we went on my lady's rifle:

Before (Standard M4 HG):

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/Hunter2506/101_1419_zps05c1c78b.jpg

After (UTG extended QR HG):

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n117/Hunter2506/101_1429.jpg

The UTG Pro QR is US-made and run about $60, install is a snap and quailty is good. A tad heavier than the Troy or Midwest, but at 1/4 the cost, I don't mind the extra 2-1/2 ounces.

In fact, I was impressed enough with the UTG pro series that I got one of their middy drop in quad rails for my Armalite M-15A2, and a rifle length full float model for the 11" upper I have coming.

Biohazard1993
November 11, 2012, 08:36 PM
sorry for the confusion. I looked at a video and could not see very well what was being done in detail. Putting that one in the oops file. I scrapped the free float tube idea long ago and I tought about doing the gas system, but as I have read the comments here and in other places I feel it un-needed. Once again though thank you for your comments and knowledge.

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