Bud's Model 10 Police Trade-in


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HKGuns
August 19, 2012, 04:25 PM
I just picked up my Bud's S&W model 10-6 Police trade-in. It has some holster wear and has some very light surface rust where the model number is located that came off with a toothbrush and some solvent. The grips aren't original to the pistol and are chewed up so I will replace them with some Altamont or other.

One question, it has a number on the grip frame as well as under the model number, they are different. Which is the serial number?

Edit: Ok, I think I've figured out the serial number is the one on the grip frame.....It is D792XXX, can anyone help out with the year of MFG? Looks like it might be '76 or so......please confirm.

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p161663890-5.jpg

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v58/p16790732-5.jpg

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Old Fuff
August 19, 2012, 07:52 PM
1976 seems to be the correct date of manufacture, although since S&W would make and serial number frames, and then build them into finished revolvers later, the only way to confirm when it left the factory (not when it was made) is to get it lettered by the factory.

Information concerning historical letters of authentication from Smith & Wesson’s historian, Roy G. Jinks can be obtained from the link listed below.

In exchange for a $50.00 research fee (make any check out to Smith & Wesson, not Mr. Jinks) he will search through the company’s original records until he finds your particular revolver. He will then send you an official letter which usually includes:

A short history of the revolver model’s background.

What the barrel length, caliber/cartridge, finish and stocks were, as well as the exact date it was shipped from the factory – and to what distributor, dealer or individual – as whatever the case may be.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_757825_-1_757814_757812_image

It also seems to have some sort of aftermarket device mounted at the top of the sideplate. This may be some sort of hammer block that permits a user to "lock up" the action to prevent someone else from firing the gun. Do not confuse this with Smith & Wesson's current-day internal lock.

HKGuns
August 19, 2012, 08:14 PM
It also seems to have some sort of aftermarket device mounted at the top of the sideplate.

Thanks fluff, but that aftermarket thing is a QR code sticker I've not yet removed. Most likely added by Bud's for inventory purposes.

While it looks worn, it locks up very tightly at every cylinder position and the bore is extremely bright and shiny with very well pronounced rifling.

bluethunder1962
August 19, 2012, 08:15 PM
I have one that was my fathers my numbers start with D415. I know he bought it in 1971. I have the book that came with it and he wrote the date on it

Driftwood Johnson
August 19, 2012, 08:45 PM
Howdy

According to the Standard Catalog of S&W, D serial number prefixes for models 10, 12, 13, 14, and 45 for 1975-1976 were D750001 through D870000.

Although Old Fuff is correct. Some Smiths sat in the warehouse for years before being shipped. The only way to determine exactly what condition the gun was when it shipped, barrel length, finish, etc, is to letter it. A letter will not confirm when it was made, but it will confirm the exact date it shipped as well as where it was shipped.

Usta be that lettering a S&W only cost $30. Upped to $50 a year or two ago. Still a bargain when you consider what it costs to letter a Colt.

Guillermo
August 19, 2012, 08:55 PM
As I like to tease him, I call him "fluffy" or "the fuffster" but he is "Old Fuff" not "Old Fluff".

Don't get him mad or he will grind the trigger guards off your revolvers, shotguns, rifles, pellet guns and weedeaters.

I raised his ire and am now living in fear, hiding my guns.

:what:

Driftwood Johnson
August 19, 2012, 08:56 PM
My Mistake.

No Offense meant.

Guillermo
August 19, 2012, 09:02 PM
No Offense meant

he assumes that from everyone but me means no harm

:evil:

skidder
August 19, 2012, 09:57 PM
Nice model 10. I like a revolver with some good honest wear. Those Altamonts will give it that finishing touch.

Guillermo
August 19, 2012, 10:27 PM
Like Skidder, I like a gun that has some use.

I would be happy to pull that out of my holster at the end of the day.

HKGuns
August 19, 2012, 11:11 PM
I'm actually thinking of sending it to S&W for a re-blue. Part of me would like to see it returned to near its original glory. I realize value wise it makes little sense, but I noticed there is some light surface rust on the frame as well that really should be taken care of before it spreads or gets worse.

W.E.G.
August 19, 2012, 11:49 PM
Rust is not like impetigo.

It won't "spread" unless you neglect the gun further.

Rub off any loose rust with some bronze wool, oil it, and call it good.

Its your gun, and your money.
So do what you want with each.

My vote would be to clean it, shoot it, and enjoy the honest appearance in its current form.

rswartsell
August 19, 2012, 11:54 PM
That actually looks like a pretty good Police veteran. You got a Smith and Wesson .38 from the "good old days" for a song. Barring serious function problems this is the best deal going for a casual shooter or defense weapon.

BCRider
August 20, 2012, 12:21 AM
I agree withe rest of the guys on this being a proper "patina" of fair usage rather than abuse. As such I'd be happy to have a gun which looked like that. The wear is sort of like the wrinkles and grey hair on a distinguished looking older person.

But if you want to restore it to like new then it would look pretty nice too. It's just that it sort of becomes a "born again revolver" that is starting all over.

Old Fuff
August 20, 2012, 01:41 AM
My Mistake. No Offense meant.

None taken of course. I thought I detected what might be a patent number on the bottom of what turned out to be a sticker.

As for refinishing: If you bought it for shooting, go shoot it. If you have it reblued plan to retire it because you won't want to get it marked up. Rusting won't continue once it's cleaned off.

Long ago I discovered while working on antiques that an easiest solution is to remove the stocks and soak the gun in a meatloaf pan filled with Marvel Mystery Oil (obtainable at most automobile supply stores). After a day or two the oil will soak into the coating of rust and loosen it's bond to the underlying finish or metal. Take the gun out of the oil bath, blow out the interior with an air hose, and wipe the exterior with cheap paper towels. Dispose of them as soon as you're done, as they are a fire hazard. Rub any remaining rust with a course cloth (such as burlap), or 00000 steel wool. This procedure will have no negative affect on the remaining blue, but will make it shine.

788Ham
August 20, 2012, 01:49 AM
Leave those beaver gnawed grips on there too, just get some Tru Oil and give them a couple of light coats, be surprised how those will look then! I've got a '57 Colt Cobra that had dried out wood grips, couple of coats, they look like brand new now!

Enjoy your new piece!

Taroman
August 20, 2012, 02:26 PM
That is an ex-Australian police revolver from the State of Victoria.
The sticker on the sideplate is a VPA (Victoria Police Armoury) micro barcode for inventory control.
I have two VPA revolvers from Bud's and have decided to leave them as is with their and stickers attached.
they are both great shooters with some "history":
http://www.hverovhe.com/VPA.jpg

Guillermo
August 20, 2012, 02:37 PM
glad they were saved before the Aussies started crushing

HKGuns
August 20, 2012, 05:18 PM
Darn it! I really wish you had posted that before I peeled the sticker off! Oh well, it is good to know where it came from just the same. I wouldn't have ever imagined it came back all the way from down under...... Thanks for your contribution.

Oh, who let the beavers loose in Victoria? I thought it was mainly Roo's that were running around down there.....

Taroman
August 20, 2012, 08:32 PM
No beavers down under. Dingos.
OTOH, some of these Aussie revolvers look as if the cops used them like boomerangs to knock the perps out. Saves on ammo that way.

Fremmer
August 20, 2012, 09:28 PM
Don't refinish her, she looks just fine, refinishing is unnecessary and undesirable. Just keep her lubed up and you'll be f

Eb1
August 20, 2012, 09:39 PM
Smith and Wesson will reblue and true that Model 10 for $375. I think. Can someone verify that?

HKGuns
August 20, 2012, 10:37 PM
I appreciate all the encouragement to leave it as is, but I WILL still shoot it after refinishing and I like to put my own marks on my pistols. I don't own any safe queens, all my guns are used as I can and as the hunting season's roll on throughout the year.

Eb1, I dropped it off at FedEx this afternoon. I'll let you know when they send me their estimate for my authorization to start work. They told me between $220 & $240 over the phone.

I'll post before and after pictures so ya'll can see the difference when I get it back in around 10 weeks.

Eb1
August 20, 2012, 10:47 PM
Even better!

bluethunder1962
August 20, 2012, 11:02 PM
My fathers gun. I put the grips on it.

spotch
August 20, 2012, 11:55 PM
I never even considered one of these police trade ins until now, and now I want one lol. What a smokin deal.

rcmodel
August 21, 2012, 12:02 AM
They are a deal.

Unless you send it to S&W to have it refinished for $240, after paying $300 + shipping + FFL fee.

At that point, you are up-side down on the cost of a really nice used Model 10 at a gunshow or somewhere.

rc

PzGren
August 21, 2012, 12:19 AM
I got a couple of those as shooters early this year.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z159/Andyd173/M10-10.jpg

PzGren
August 21, 2012, 12:26 AM
RC Model wrote:

They are a deal.

Unless you send it to S&W to have it refinished for $240, after paying $300 + shipping + FFL fee.

At that point, you are up-side down on the cost of a really nice used Model 10 at a gunshow or somewhere.

rc

They were $269 plus transfer and shipping is usually included from Buds.

But you are right on it, a refinish is turning that deal into having thrown away money.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 10:25 AM
RC rarely errs so it pains me to point out that you don't have to pay FFL if the gun is not being transferred.

Just like a repair, the Feds are not involved for a reblue.

That said, he point is spot on. Restoring a Model 10 is not money well spent.

PzGren
August 21, 2012, 11:03 AM
Unless you send it to S&W to have it refinished for $240, after paying $300 + shipping + FFL fee.

I do not think that RC meant that FFL fees were applicable for the rebluing service, he listed FFL charges only for the purchase.

The Bushmaster
August 21, 2012, 11:22 AM
Interesting posts.

I have two model 10's. Both are turn-ins from Hong Kong. They have RHKP 114XX on the back strap. Both were test fired in Hong Kong and rerapped, boxed and never issued. I bought them in 1992 for $150.00 each.

Absolutely love them.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 11:46 AM
he listed FFL charges only for the purchase

I misread

you are correct

As is he

PzGren
August 21, 2012, 11:59 AM
Guillermoo,

but you are right about him in general. He is a great source of information and has helped me more than once.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 12:01 PM
He is a great source of information and has helped me more than once

no doubt

one of the guys that makes this a great board

he is one of several that have earned my respect for his knowledge and willingness to share it.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 12:03 PM
Guillermoo

guillerMOO?

I have been called full of bull before :neener:

http://images.clipartof.com/small/4546-Cowboy-Cow-Clipart.jpg

bluethunder1962
August 21, 2012, 05:59 PM
Everybody is worried about the resale of the gun. I don't think if you ask him that he bought it just to sell it. He is going to have a beautiful gun. The only value that matters is what it is worth to him.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 06:09 PM
The only value that matters is what it is worth to him

true

but why spend $600 bucks on a restored model 10 when an uber nice NIB can be had for less?

bluethunder1962
August 21, 2012, 06:13 PM
It is a classic.

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 06:40 PM
it is a classic

but would you spend 10K to restore your Toyota Celica when you could buy a perfect one for 6K?

and in the end you would have a Celica.

good car but not valuable.

Shoju
August 21, 2012, 07:00 PM
but would you spend 10K to restore your Toyota Celica when you could buy a perfect one for 6K?

and in the end you would have a Celica.

good car but not valuable.It's his gun and his money.
If it makes his day, it's his business.

And to answer the unasked question, yes, I have done something very similar with a shotgun. It may not be worth the money I have stuck into it, but it sure looks good and shoots just fine!

Shoju

btg3
August 21, 2012, 07:29 PM
It's his gun and his money.
If it makes his day, it's his business.

...and when it's posted on the internet, anyone may provide commentary. ;)

Guillermo
August 21, 2012, 07:51 PM
It's his gun and his money.
If it makes his day, it's his business

absolutely

He can spent 20K on a gold plated Rohm with diamonds for the "dots" of the sights if he wants.

This is, or at least recently was, America.



anyone may provide commentary

it was even encouraged

Eb1
August 21, 2012, 07:56 PM
I'd like to have an issued Mod 10, and then have S&W re-blue and true it up for me. I'd take that route before buying a new S&W Mod 10. That is just me. Other opinions may very.
If I had the money put back for a new handgun, I might go that route. As it is, I am wanting new reloading gear, but it seems unexpected surgery is gong to take that money. So back to putting pennies into the coffee can I go.

OP, I hope your Mod 10 comes back looking new, and shoots good for you. Be sure to post up pics when you get it back with a range report of at least 15 yards, but even better a range report at 25 yards. :) Seven feet doesn't count as a range report.

HKGuns
August 21, 2012, 08:19 PM
Everybody is worried about the resale of the gun. I don't think if you ask him that he bought it just to sell it. He is going to have a beautiful gun. The only value that matters is what it is worth to him.

Bingo. I've never sold a gun after buying, add to that I am not asking anyone to pay for it with their income or tax dollars. :)

Thanks EB1, I will most certainly post up pics when done.

SGW42
August 21, 2012, 08:25 PM
If you send it off to S&W, you get a package sent back that will look like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a275/Deity42/DSCN0413.jpg

Now that it looks so much better, I have more pride in owning it, and I actually shoot it much more. HOWEVER, mine had a bunch of stuff going on with it. The wear on it was obviously negligent. Yours on the other hand, looks clearly honest (and dare I say attractive), and if it locks up tight and shoots straight I would keep it that way!

Here is the thread detailing my S&W service experience, in case you do decide to send it to them. They have my highest compliments: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=458550

skidder
August 21, 2012, 08:57 PM
They told me between $220 & $240 over the phone.
Like many have said, "it's his money", but what is a good price for a refinish and bluing?
I paid $125 at a local gunsmith and he did a great job. He gave me the option of bead-blast or polished finish and I chose the bead-blast. I don't think it would hurt to check the local arena first (a smithy with good references). Heck, it might save you a couple bucks. Money that could go for ammo. :)

bluethunder1962
August 21, 2012, 09:02 PM
SHW42. That is what I am talking about. Beautiful.

Driftwood Johnson
August 21, 2012, 09:49 PM
Howdy Again

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/Driftwood_Johnson/smith%20and%20wesson/fourinchsmiths.jpg

Here is a photo of a couple of 4" Smiths. The gun at the bottom is a Model 10-5. If you look closely you will see the number 54 stamped on the frame just above the trigger. I always figure this gun was probably a LEO trade in, the number is handstamped, looks like a department armorer would have stamped it. The SN says it was made around 1965 or so. I found the gun in a local shop about ten years ago. The dealer had it marked $125. I had not bought a gun in a long time and did not realize what a great price that was. When I asked if he could do any better he got mad and told me what an idiot I was. So I forked over the $125. Best deal I've ever made on a Smith. One of the grips even has some pretty nice figure.

The gun at the top is a M&P from about 1940 or so. The point of the photo is to illustrate the similarities and differences between a Model 10 and a M&P. Different shaped front sight, hammer, and ejector rod, as well as the older gun being a 5 screw. Don't recall what I paid for the M&P, but I know it was more than $125.

By the way, I would not dream of refinishing either of them. I like a little bit of honest wear on a revolver. If I were to refinish any of my old guns, I would probably never shoot them any more.

rcmodel
August 21, 2012, 10:14 PM
I paid $125 at a local gunsmith. He gave me the option of bead-blast or polished finish and I chose the bead-blast.Yea, but see, the OP's gun will look like a new Model 10 when he gets it back.
And bear the S&W refinish stamp collectors will look for in the future and pay more for.

Your $125 bead-blast job?

Not so much!

rc

Old Fuff
August 21, 2012, 10:27 PM
Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think. ;)

Driftwood Johnson
August 21, 2012, 11:29 PM
Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think.

Nope. SN is 6699XX. No prefix. Action is definitely the 'long' action. Stocks have a different number stamped on the inside of the right grip. Hammer block is the older style pinned to the side plate that swings out of the way when the hammer is cocked. I think it is a very late pre-war.

I belong to the Smith and Wesson Collectors Association, so I can get any Smith dated for free. Just haven't gotten around to this one. Will let you know when I do.

skidder
August 22, 2012, 12:24 AM
Yea, but see, the OP's gun will look like a new Model 10 when he gets it back.
And bear the S&W refinish stamp collectors will look for in the future and pay more for.

Your $125 bead-blast job?

Not so much!

rc

One problem with that RC.
S&W no longer exists. Saf-T-Hammer is all that is left.
The stamp may say S&W, but it will always be a Safe-T-Hammer finish. The once great work of S&W will never be resurrected, only forged.

Old Fuff
August 22, 2012, 12:14 PM
Nope. SN is 6699XX. No prefix. Action is definitely the 'long' action. Stocks have a different number stamped on the inside of the right grip. Hammer block is the older style pinned to the side plate that swings out of the way when the hammer is cocked. I think it is a very late pre-war.

Oh darn!!!

The picture is deceiving, in that the ejector rod doesn’t seem to have the large knob on the end. I would date a frame (not necessarily a revolver) with a 6,700xx serial number as around 1939/40. In the time period 1940-41 S&W didn't make a whole lot of K-frame/.38 Specials because they were filling orders from the U.K. and Commonwealth.

Old Fuff
August 22, 2012, 12:32 PM
The collector value of late 20th Century model 10 revolvers is not likely to be impressive, with the possible exception of rare or scarce variants in perfect or boxed condition. If I was considering refinishing one the last thing I'd take into consideration would be the highly questionable collector value.

I have in the past created my own version of a World War Two, Victory Model by bead-blasting and Parkerizing a "user/shooter." The result wasn't pretty, but it was inexpensive, durable, and can be done at home. I will say that the guns I refinished were in a lot worse shape then the ones I am seeing here.

Guillermo
August 22, 2012, 12:49 PM
I will say that the guns I refinished were in a lot worse shape then the ones I am seeing here

did their trigger guards survive?

C5rider
August 22, 2012, 06:24 PM
I'm waiting to see what she looks like with a new dress!

:D

Old Fuff
August 22, 2012, 08:39 PM
I have seen a whole lot of guns that had been refinished at considerable cost, when doing so made no economic sense. Sometimes someone actually spent a lot of money to reduce the gun's previous value.

But economics and monetary value are not the only reason for doing something. Many other considerations can enter in. What does matter is that the gun owner understands all of the consequences of what they propose to do before they do it. That's what The High Road is for. Nothing less and nothing more.

MrDig
August 22, 2012, 11:36 PM
I just enrolled at Pine Technical College in the Gunsmithing Program. I plan on using my 269.00 Buds Guns Model 10 as a project gun for re-bluing and realize it's collector value is at best nominal. Until I get to that level in the program it's a shooter at the range and a HD gun and I'm not really that worried about it.
The last time I mentioned the collector Value on one of the Buds Guns Police trades I was chided quite well for any concern about the collector value in them. There really is none shoot it Reblue is Duracote it pink with purple Polka Dots if you want it really won't hurt the Collector Value, It might affect the Resale value but I didn't buy mine to sell it I bought it to shoot and use as an inexpensive learner gun in my Smithing Classes. I think I'll get my moneys worth out of it.

Checkman
August 23, 2012, 05:47 PM
Old Fuff

Judging from the ejector rod style and that of the stocks I would say the top revolver was most likely made during 1945 or '46. Remove the stocks and look at the inside of the panels to see if one or both are serial numbered to match that of the gun. The revolver’s serial number is stamped on the bottom of the butt, and likely has a letter “S” prefix.

If so, the “S” is to show that while it has the pre-war style “long” double-action which is hard sought after by some, it also has the post-war positive hammer block that makes it safe to carry with all six chambers loaded.

These are often called Transitional Pre-Model 10’s. They were only made during 1945 and ’46, and represent a bridge between the last of the pre-war revolvers and the new post-war ones with a “short” action that was introduced in 1946 and made forward to today.

I have no idea what you paid for it, but I suspect it's worth more then you think.

I have a post-war 5" barrel transitional M&P. Serial number is S964XXX. Picked it up for $300 in September of 2010. The owner wanted it out of the door since there was no interest in it, it was taking up shelf space and the owner knows I like revolvers. It was priced at $350 and he came down to $300. It was a sell right there. It's in very good shape and shoots very well. Very accurate with the classic 158 grain LRN at 20 yards. The M&P/Model 10 is a terrific revolver. I am a firm believer that the owner of the gun can do what he or she wants to do with it. As long as it's legal.

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa427/checkman1/MP1.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa427/checkman1/M26PUSA-1.jpg
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa427/checkman1/MP3.jpg

Guillermo
August 23, 2012, 06:14 PM
checkman

beautiful gun

the longer barrels are not in fashion but they sure are fun to shoot

enjoy your lovely gun

I am a firm believer that the owner of the gun can do what he or she wants to do with it. As long as it's legal.

I just reread this thread and did not see anyone suggest that the OP can not do that he wants with his gun.

Sam1911
August 24, 2012, 12:05 PM
[MOD TALK: Hey folks, if you feel the need to go negative, stop. Turn off the computer and think about it for a while. If you still want to argue or squabble, especially about what other people are saying about OTHER people's choices about OTHER PEOPLE's guns, go ahead and type out your response. But please don't turn the computer back on first. Then we won't have to take the time to delete 15 or 20 posts worth of pointless bickering. Thanks, we appreciate the help.]

Guillermo
August 24, 2012, 12:40 PM
yes sir

Checkman
August 25, 2012, 01:06 AM
I was responding to some of the posters who were bickering back and forth. Thanks. I like the 5" revolvers. I also have a pre-war 5" Heavy Duty.

Guillermo
August 25, 2012, 10:09 AM
Checkman has good taste.

The 5 and 6 inchers are great shooters, even though they are not "in style".

Once upon a time I would never consider a longer barrel as the 4" "looked right"

My old K-22 taught me that such a thought was dumb. Youza what a gun!

HKGuns
October 4, 2012, 09:12 PM
I should be receiving my pistol back very soon to do a before and after comparison as I promised. Just lifting this up a little and posting the grips that I'll soon be attaching to the refinished Model 10.

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p1140834710-5.jpg

Jaymo
October 4, 2012, 10:07 PM
Fixed sight K frames are in my top 2 of favorite Smiths.
I'd get it reblued, too. Ex-cop gun with lots of holster wear isn't exactly a big collectible.

tomrkba
October 4, 2012, 10:36 PM
Very nice. I am going to pick up one of these 10's from Buds.

sacnho
October 5, 2012, 10:33 AM
My model 10-5. Ex police gun. I put the Hougue grip on but still have original. Great gun shoots awesome.

BSA1
October 5, 2012, 06:16 PM
I'm actually thinking of sending it to S&W for a re-blue. Part of me would like to see it returned to near its original glory. I realize value wise it makes little sense, but I noticed there is some light surface rust on the frame as well that really should be taken care of before it spreads or gets worse.

Smith and Wesson will reblue and true that Model 10 for $375. I think. Can someone verify that?

S&W will NOT reblue old Model 10 revolvers. I sent one back to the factory last week for repair and was told by the Rep that they will not refinish them due to possibility of the frame cracking when they removed the barrel. I expressed a lot of surprised about them having to remove the barrel for rebluing but the rep told me it was necessary for polishing of the parts.

But you are right on it, a refinish is turning that deal into having thrown away money.

I agree but something about these old gals say they deserve a new look.

HKGuns
October 5, 2012, 09:03 PM
Well they are re-bluing this 1976 vintage Model 10. Not sure what date yours was made but they didn't even bat an eye at doing mine.

Old Fuff
October 5, 2012, 09:41 PM
The problem I see with getting a factory refinish (if they will do one) is that for $375 (if that is the current charge) you can find ordinary model 10 revolvers with 99.9% of the original finish for that amount or less.

I have one with a 4" pencil barrel and a badly mottled finish - but no pits - that was apparently caused by a stay in a damp holster. The mechanical condition, bore and chambers are next to perfect, and it shoots fine. When I bought it I paid about $200 out-the-door. I'm in no hurry to get it refinished, but if I do it will be a bead-blast and Parkerize job done at home. In other words my very own, Old Fuff Victory Model. That will cost something like $25 to $50 cash money, and I can easily recover the money if I sell or trade it.

But when money is no object, go ahead and spend the cash, even if it's more then the gun itself is worth, but it's smart to consider all of your other options first.

Checkman
October 6, 2012, 04:50 AM
Guillermo

Checkman has good taste.
The 5 and 6 inchers are great shooters, even though they are not "in style".
Once upon a time I would never consider a longer barrel as the 4" "looked right"
My old K-22 taught me that such a thought was dumb. Youza what a gun!

I used to be same way. I've changed my mind over the past few years. The 5" and 6" revolvers are great shooters.

Guillermo
October 6, 2012, 12:55 PM
The 5" and 6" revolvers are great shooters.

until I get my .22 can and an AR upper...my squirrel rifle is my K22

788Ham
October 6, 2012, 02:06 PM
Sure will be glad when you post those finished rebluing pics HK ! One of a kind, you're deserving!

HKGuns
October 22, 2012, 12:43 AM
The finished pistol will be on the Fedex truck tomorrow. Once I get the new grips attached and pictures taken I will post an update. I'm curious how good it will look once I have it in hand. Interesting to note for those thinking of doing the same with theirs. Shipped to S&W on August 20th, returned and in my hand October 22nd.

il.bill
October 22, 2012, 01:06 PM
If it is not too personal a suggestion, it would be neat to see some photos posted of your Model 10 being unwrapped from the S&W packaging.

After typing that, it somehow seems a tad pornographic, so if you demure it is certainly understandable. Just seeing the picture of the stocks you will be dressing it with has me salivating in anticipation. Maybe my wife is right and there really is something wrong with me.

Good luck, and here's hoping it all works out to your satisfaction.

Taffnevy
October 22, 2012, 05:05 PM
The one I picked up from Bud's was manufactured in 1996. It is in good shape with some character. I put some Nill grips on it to dress it up a bit.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/Taffnevy/Snapbucket/2DE0204B.jpg

HKGuns
October 22, 2012, 05:13 PM
Good news and bad news.

Bad news first: The Altamont grips don't fit, it appears they are for a round K frame. I verified they are for a K frame pistol, I must have ordered the wrong kind or they sent me the wrong version. I'll have to see if they will exchange for me.

Good news: The pistol looks like it is fresh from the factory. Here are a few pictures. Overall I'm extremely pleased with the work done by S&W!

Here are some pictures with the original Beaver chewed grips.

Before:

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v58/p16790732-5.jpg
http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v64/p161663890-5.jpg

After:

http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v56/p1212332426-5.jpg
http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s1/v54/p1212332474-5.jpg
http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s4/v63/p1212332408-5.jpg
http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v59/p1212337740-5.jpg

il.bill
October 22, 2012, 06:26 PM
The 'good news' is great (that second picture of the refinished Model 10 naked in the box makes me tingly) and the 'bad news' is minimal - congratulations on a beautiful handgun, sir.

bluethunder1962
October 22, 2012, 06:58 PM
Let me know if you can't work something out with the grips I might buy them from you fot the right price. I am sure I might have something they will work on.

HKGuns
October 22, 2012, 07:48 PM
Thanks BlueThunder, really appreciate the offer. Altamont was very responsive and said just return them to exchange for the correct grips. They are already in the mail.

PzGren
October 23, 2012, 12:07 AM
HKGuns,

that revolver looks great! I would be (almost) afraid to shoot it now and wipe it down all the time:).

Taffnevy,

Nills is what I have in mind for my model 10s from Buds after rustbluing them. I got the grips but did not find the time to rustblue two revolvers, yet.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z159/Andyd173/NillsKRB.jpg

bluethunder1962
October 23, 2012, 01:11 AM
Cool glad it worked out. Going to be a cool gun.

C5rider
October 23, 2012, 08:56 AM
Just wondering, what would a couple of coats of linseed oil (or other alternative) do for those stocks? Could it possibly bring them up to snuff while still giving the gun reference to it's age.

Kind of like a LITTLE bit 'o grey hair, but without all the extra coming out the nose and ears. :D

HKGuns
October 23, 2012, 09:18 AM
Just wondering, what would a couple of coats of linseed oil (or other alternative) do for those stocks? Could it possibly bring them up to snuff while still giving the gun reference to it's age.

Now "that" is a great idea and I can't believe I didn't think to try it. I think I'll give those guys a typical "Garand" treatment and see how they turn out.

I don't know what the original finish is on them and if they are sealed in any way, but it certainly won't hurt to try.

Old Fuff
October 23, 2012, 11:38 AM
The original finish was clear lacquer, and not particularly good. Refinishing would be a good idea.

Hint: Take an expendable .45 ACP cartridge case and use it as a die to cut out some circles from a strip of masking tape. Tape one each of the circles over the trademark medallions to protect them during refinishing.

W.E.G.
October 23, 2012, 11:45 AM
What trademark medallions?

I'm not seeing any on the OP's grips.

Old Fuff
October 23, 2012, 01:03 PM
Good point! This simply means they are not genuine S&W stocks. But the tip is still good for those who do have S&W branded stocks.

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