[Ruger44mag]

Hi all. I have been reloading for about three years now and I have become pretty good at making my own(although I seem to learn something new every time i sit down at the bench:D). I have had the interest lately to get into casting my own bullets and I am pretty set on it. What I need now is to know where to start. I am starting out from the bottom and know absolutely zero about casting bullets.So please bear with me:). If someone could get me going in the right direction on things like what a good manual would be to use and any other tips would be appreciated. I have loaded lead and hard cast lead bullets before so the actual loading for me wont be new. Thanks!

[zxcvbob]

I dunno how well it will go over recommending another forum, but check out castboolits.gunloads.com

The main thing you need is lead, and you don't want to pay full retail for it. Do you have a source of scrap? (if not, there are folk who sell ingots for about $1 per pound delivered, but make sure you buy from someone with a good reputation)

I just cast about 100 pounds of ingots tonight from scrap lead I got "free", cleaning out the bullet trap at the indoor shooting range last spring. (I got a half dozen 5 gal buckets full, and work on it a little at a time)

Wheel weights make great bullets if you can still find lead WW's, and if you don't accidentally ruin it with zinc. The lead WW supply is drying up (maybe not for big trucks) and the lead in them is not as good as it used to be.

[tactikel]

+1 on castboolits, it is a great forum! I have been shooting cast for 45 years and for pistol it is the only way I shoot. Lead is becoming hard to scrounge, I used to get wheel weights for free until they became a "toxic material". I take great satisfaction in finding the lead, making an alloy, casting the desired bullet, sizing and lubing. Punching the x ring with something I turned from a wheel weight into a bullet is something I take great pride in. I don't fear shortages of jacket bullets I have enough lead to cast over 10K bullets for my .357 :D plus I can shoot for "powder and primers"-about $5.50 a box for .357s exclusive of brass.

The Lyman Manual is a must read for anyone considering casting. Check out their web sight.

[ReloaderFred]

Buy yourself a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual and read the introduction and "how to" sections. That will give you the basic knowledge to get started. Then you can join us over at castboolits.com and join in the fun.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[zxcvbob]

What calibers do you want to cast? It makes a difference; .38 Special target loads, or .357 Magnums, or black powder cartridges, or .30 rifle (etc.)

[wgaynor]

http://www.lasc.us/indexBrennan.htm

This will get you started.

[steve4102]

there are folk who sell ingots for about $1 per pound delivered, but make sure you buy from someone with a good reputation)

Got a source or link to some of these folks?

Thanks

[grubbylabs]

Yup look at the castboolits forum, lots of nice folks over their that know what they are doing. Also the Lyman manual will help you get going.

I just started out a few years ago and I got into it pretty cheap for the most part.

The basics that you will need are,

casting furnace of some kind, I bought the Lee bottom pour, it works quite well for a Lee product.

Molds, Lee's $20.00 molds are OK they work, but for the biggest bang for my buck I like molds from Accurate molds in utah, not much more than new Lyman or rcbs or what ever and a little better made I think.


Sizing and lubing. Many people have a sizing and lubing press, They all have mixed reviews on midway. I bought the Lee sizing dies that screw right into my single stage, again, for Lee they are a great product. I tumble lube all my bullets.

For making your ingots you will need some heat source like a camp stove or a turkey fryer, plus a pot and ingot molds.

Those are the basics of what you will need.

[dbarnhart]

I agree that there is no better place to start than castboolits.gonloads.com.

While the supply of free wheel weights has pretty well disappeared, a small cottage industry has sprung up of people with access to wheel weights, reclaimed range lead, isotope cores, etc who ingotize them and sell them for about $1/pound shipped in a USPS Medium Flat Rate Box. Using tis source of lead, my cost for projectiles is about 1/3 of what it was when I was using FMJs (called j-words over on castboolits). The best place to buy this lead is the Swappin & Sellin form on Castboolits because you are buying from a fellow caster and so you can be confident in the quality of what you are buying.

[mdi]

I started with a single burner Coleman stove, a stainless steel pot, 2 qt., a Lee dipper and a Lee mold. I worked as a H.D. Construction Mechanic and had access to wheel weights. I melted and cleaned the wheel weights first and poured the lead into a muffin pan for ingots. I then melted the ingots and tried casting. Wasn't any good at first, but the only way to learn bullet casting is to cast some bullets. Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook and Castboolits.com are by far the best info sources available...

[918v]

U don't need no manual.

U don't need no other forum.

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.

Now ask specific questions.

[zxcvbob]

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.


You don't really need all that. ;)

[grubbylabs]

U don't need no manual.

U don't need no other forum.

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.

Now ask specific questions.

Why would he not need a manual or a almost endless supply of advise from casters with probably a century of experience?

Having the Lyman casting manual explains quite a bit about the hobby as well as providing definitions of terms along with pictures.

There is more than one way to skin a cat, he may want to do it on the cheap, or he may want to go full tilt and go for a Star sizing press and all custom molds.

Either way he will get lots of good info from the book and the other forum.

[918v]

There are plenty of folks here that can assist him just as well. The Lyman manual did nothing for me, but I did read Guns & Ammo in the 80's.

[mgmorden]

The Lyman manual has about the most comprehensive cast bullet load data I've found. Its worth its cost for that alone IMHO. Not to mention that Lyman includes it with some of their melting pot kits.

FWIW though, I've cast my own bullets and shot them. I consider it a useful thing to have the molds, equipment and lead handy just in case I need them. That said, when I compared my time input for casting to the amount of money I was saving over BUYING cast bullets, it just wasn't worth it.

Still, like I said just learning the process I think is a worthwhile exercise. I've also been contemplating getting into shotgun loading too and the yield seems better there. Casting handgun bullets came out to about 50% the cost of buying them outright, but casting 00 buckshot seems to come out to around 20% of the cost vs buying it.

[James2]

What do you need? Basically: A pot to melt lead, a heat source, a mold, a dipper, a hardwood stick to knock the sprue cutter open, a pile of cotton cloth to drop the hot bullets on, some flux. Then you will need some lead to melt. Gloves,and eye protection are also a must in my book. If you want to size and lube the cast bullets a way to do that will be needed. There are options.

OK, I started out on the cheap with a small lead pot a dipper and a mold and used deer tallow for flux. An old spoon for a skimmer. About any fat will work as flux, or beeswax is good. A camp stove for heat. Free wheel weights for lead. A lot of the things I mentioned I already had, so it didn't take much to get started. I did soon buy a Lyman sizer/lubricator. A dutch oven from the second hand store gave me a larger pot for smelting. I already had the Lyman manual as a reloading manual.

Ya, you can spend some bucks for fancy equipment or you can go the cheap way. Of course that seems true whatever we set out to do. I usually opt for the cheap way since there never seems to be enough money.

For a time we could get printer's lead, but that source dried up.

A guy at the sporting goods store talked to me for a few minutes about procedure and I was off and making bullets. That was many years ago. Not a whole lot has changed here since then. I can still get free wheel weights, but don't know how long that will last, and you have to watch for zinc, but a little heat is the biggest expense. The bullets cost a bit of time, but in an afternoon I can make a bunch using 4 cavity molds.

Have fun!

[Hondo 60]

Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook is the best place to start.
2nd is http://castboolits.gunloads.com

If you can't afford Lyman's book, check out the local library.
They may have a copy, or may be able to borrow it from another library.

[Mac45]

It's not that there aren't lots of good folks here that are willing and able to help, but http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ is another great forum. Take a look, I think you'll like it.
Also, the Lyman manual is great, especially if you're at all interested in old cartridges.
Finally, there's also a lot of great info at the LosAngeles Silhouette Club. I would recommend you go here http://www.lasc.us/articlesfryxell.htm and download Dr. Glen's book. It's a free download, and one every caster should have.

[grubbylabs]

There are plenty of folks here that can assist him just as well. The Lyman manual did nothing for me, but I did read Guns & Ammo in the 80's.

Well of coarse there are people here who understand casting and I have received some great advice from members her, however, there is a difference int he sites. Here we don't have a focus point, we are a broad spectrum forum that does a excellent job covering many aspects of the shooting sports. Kinda like your GP doc who his good at covering many things. However some times a specialist is needed. At castboolits probably 80% of the sub forums are directly cast related.

As far as the book goes, well its not my fault you were not smart enough or open enough to learn any thing from a book you read. I know as a new caster it was very informative.

[918v]

As far as the book goes, well its not my fault you were not smart enough or open enough to learn any thing from a book you read. I know as a new caster it was very informative.

You need help with reading comprehension.

A person who reads does not benefit from a manual designed for people who don't. It has nothing to do with intelligence. The Lyman manual has 9 out of 416 pages dedicated to casting. 9.

It is substandard.

[Duckdog]

I find it odd that the OP has not replied back to any of the posts. I think the most important question asked to him that he did not reply back to was if this was for pistol or rifle. Casting for pistols is far less critical as far a Q.C. than for a rifle.

Bullet casting is certainly not like making a swiss watch and much is learned by doing, not overthinking. I've been casting for more years than I care to remember and most of it was learned along the way... pre internet.

[grubbylabs]

My reading comprehension is just fine. The Lyman casting book that I read was all about casting, it had great detail on the whole process. There were a lot more than 9 pages in the book about casting. Are you sure you are referencing the right book? After all they have a reloading manual and a casting manual.

[Walkalong]

Let's be nice guys, my head hurts already.

I started with a homemade pot, a bottom pour ladle (http://catalog.advancecarmover.com/category/rowell-ladles) from advanced car mover, some wheel weights scrounged from gas stations, a Lee mold and a Lee ingot maker. I used some old toilet bowl wax seals for flux. (No, not used ones)

I read everything I could get my hands on, as there was no internet.

While there is a wealth of information to be had on casting here, the folks at Cast Boolits make a religion out of it. It's a great place for info, as well as here and any book/mag you can get hold of.

The alloy has to be hard enough to grip the rifling without skidding at the velocity you are shooting. The alloy has to be soft enough to bump up from pressure to seal the gases from flame cutting the bullet as it passes through the throats and barrel. The pressure must be high enough to bump the bullet up.

Old school learning. Books.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=120451&d=1272669229


Here is a good thread with some casting info. There are many here.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=520330

[mdi]

U don't need no manual.

U don't need no other forum.

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.

Now ask specific questions.
Geeze. You don't need no thermometer. A manual is a lot better for information than some salty old forum members! Heat gun? Turkey basters? Hardness tester? With a response like the above I'd go, nope I'd run to any other forum for info...

[wgaynor]

I started with a propane camp stove, cast iron pot, cast iron ladle, and a lee mould. Worked great for me. Bought my first manual a year later along with other components.

Learned how to do it by watching Youtube videos. It can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be.

[hang fire]

It has been my experience that those without knowledge on a subject, are almost always the first weighing in to demonstrate said lack of knowledge.

[zxcvbob]

It has been my experience that those without knowledge on a subject, are almost always the first weighing in to demonstrate said lack of knowledge.


So do you have anything to add, other than that you are late to the discussion?

[grubbylabs]

I would say that's a heck of a state to make on its own without any additional information or insight to go with it. Since they assume to be so knowledgeable I would assume some pearls of wisdom would have been left.

[Powderman]

Take a look at these threads I posted a few years back. They might be helpful.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=29353&highlight=Why+-Cast+Your+Own

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=29354&highlight=Why+-Cast+Your+Own

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=29741&highlight=Why+-Cast+Your+Own

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=30007&highlight=Why+-Cast+Your+Own

[918v]

Geeze. You don't need no thermometer. A manual is a lot better for information than some salty old forum members! Heat gun? Turkey basters? Hardness tester? With a response like the above I'd go, nope I'd run to any other forum for info...

Please do.

[918v]

My reading comprehension is just fine. The Lyman casting book that I read was all about casting, it had great detail on the whole process. There were a lot more than 9 pages in the book about casting. Are you sure you are referencing the right book? After all they have a reloading manual and a casting manual.


I meant to type 19. The rest is historical info and load data which is pretty sparse. You'd have to get all the Lyman Handbooks ever published to to get a decent amount of info.

[dickttx]

I did some casting back in the late 60's. Single cavity Lee 255gn RNFP. Still have a few and they are pretty nice looking.
I have been thinking about getting started again and looking through my literature. Can't seem to find anything on casting and don't remember where I got my info that long ago, but it would have been from books, as that was well before the internet.
I have the current edition of Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook that I purchased for the lead bullet loads, so I started there. I also was pretty disappointed in the amount of actual step by step content.
May seem silly to the youngsters, but one of my big decisions before starting to buy equipment is what size mold to buy-the two cavity or the six cavity. I remember the single cavity was slow, but I don't know if the arthur in my hands will let me handle a six cavity for a very long period at a time.
Any experience by aged casters would be appreciated.

[zxcvbob]

255 is a big bullet. The 2-cavity mold is cheap; about $20 including the handles. You can't go too wrong starting with that.

In smaller (lighter) bullets, like 38's and 9mm's, the 6 cavity mold is *so* much faster than a 2 and it should be manageable.

With Lee molds, there's not much risk if you choose the wrong one. They don't cost much to start with, and you can sell them used for close to what you paid.

[dragon813gt]

Go to the cast boolits site. There is
more information on casting then here.

Since you'll be shooting cast bullets then you'll want the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. It has more load data then you will get from the powder manufacturers. It also explains the casting process from start to finish. You'll want the 3rd and 4th editions if you get into it seriously.

Go to the Cast Boolits and start reading. Since the site is built around casting there is really in depth information.

Here is a pic of my production setup.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/Firearms/Reloading/10444ECC-9BBE-4718-917C-589F4FC72E0D-318-0000002EB034C4B8.jpg

Brought to you by TapaTalk.

[dickttx]

Quote:
"255 is a big bullet. The 2-cavity mold is cheap; about $20 including the handles. You can't go too wrong starting with that.

In smaller (lighter) bullets, like 38's and 9mm's, the 6 cavity mold is *so* much faster than a 2 and it should be manageable.

With Lee molds, there's not much risk if you choose the wrong one. They don't cost much to start with, and you can sell them used for close to what you paid."

I see what you mean. The bullets in a 6 cavity 125gn mold would be 750gn as opposed to the 400gns in a two cavity 200gn mold. This translates into only 1/2 oz difference in weight. Of course the mold and handles would weigh more on the six cavity.

[Ruger44mag]

I find it odd that the OP has not replied back to any of the posts. I think the most important question asked to him that he did not reply back to was if this was for pistol or rifle. Casting for pistols is far less critical as far a Q.C. than for a rifle.

Bullet casting is certainly not like making a swiss watch and much is learned by doing, not overthinking. I've been casting for more years than I care to remember and most of it was learned along the way... pre internet.
Sorry I didn't reply back to anyone I have been offline for a while and haven't had the time to see if there was any responses, and boy did I get a lot! Right now I want to cast for my 45 colt and 45-70. Later on I might cast for some of my bigger calibers but right now Im just going to cast for these two to start with.

Ok so now that I have read all the post I have a few more questions.
Can you use straight bees wax for lube?
Why do you need to size the bullets once they are cast? I would have thought the mold would do that?
Would it be a good idea to put gas checks on all of the bullets? I am undecided on if i should do that or not.
Can you get wheel weights at any salvage?

I plan on buying the Lyman manual and reading it. When I started reloading I found out that having a reference book handy made a big difference.

Thanks again to everyone for the replys!

[Powderman]

Answers interspersed...

Can you use straight bees wax for lube?

You can, but you'll have limited success. Regular paraffin wax makes the lube a bit harder, easy to handle, and it won't melt or migrate easily to your powder.

Why do you need to size the bullets once they are cast? I would have thought the mold would do that?

Each mold has its own characteristics--and each alloy will be different, casting bullets that vary slightly. Sizing the bulets will make sure that they are of a uniform diameter for better results.

Would it be a good idea to put gas checks on all of the bullets? I am undecided on if i should do that or not.

Gas checks will help if you routinely plan to push bullets at increased velocities. Other than that, a regular base will do fine.

Can you get wheel weights at any salvage?

Most metal salvage places will carry them. You can also be creative, and look around for large chunks of lead to salvage as well.

[Elkins45]

U don't need no manual.

U don't need no other forum.

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.

I'll agree with you that the Lyman manual is a disappointment if you have read much else about casting. I will say the same for the RCBS cast boolet book as well. Other than the load data they contain and the section on heat treating I didn't learn anything that Dean Grinnell didn't teach me in The ABC's of Reloading. I do think the load data makes the Lyman book a worthwhile investment, so maybe we differ on that.

The part of this post that struck me was your recommendation to get a turkey baster. I've been casting since 1987 and I've never needed a turkey baster. I always thought they only had two uses--basting turkeys and insemination!

[jjjitters]

Beeswax is good as a base, but it is best mixed with stuff like vasoline,stp,olive oil,Johnsons paste wax,mobil red grease. Ya you can get a mixture of a lot of ingredients to make your own lubes. For starting cheap to get your feet wet, pan lubing works,so does tumble lubing. All that is needed is a pan to melt the lube and put your bullets in.

You can shoot bullet "as cast" if they are the right size,depending on how the mold drops(custum molds are made to your specs), otherwise sizing down is needed.Some like the more uniform size and roundness of sized bullets for accuracy, but that is up to the individual.
Gas check are optional as stated, they help with dealing with leading in higher velocities or guns that are a pain to eliminate leading.

I get all the WW I need from several local recyclers, most garages around here don't want to bother selling to an individual, they just sell for less to the junk yards(ya doesn't make sense, but they do). Some states are harder to get. I do sell some ww,pure, and range lead, if your interested. Otherwise there are several others over at cast boolits forum(you should really go there).Hint, hint;)

[Duckdog]

You picked 2 of the easier calibers to cast for. Normally, you shouldn't need gas checks on either of those unless you are hot rodding them. If your gun handles the bullets as cast and loaded, you can probably get by without sizing.
I personally use Lee Liquid Alox or Johnsons Paste Wax on my bullets and get zero leading up to 2250 fps in a 30-06.

Aother good resource for info on casting is the Lee 2nd Edition. You'll learn a quite a bit on how loading and pressures work with lead cast bullets.

Like was mentioned, casting isn't rocket science. Get the basics and the basic supplies and have at it. One main piece of advise is do not allow any water, sweat, etc, in the hot melted lead! If you do, you'll meet the tinsel fairy real fast!

[Ruger44mag]

How do you tumble lube? Do you just put them in a tumbler with lube?

[Duckdog]

I use an old whipped cream container and dribble some lube on them and just flop the bullets around until they are coated. Then I just dump them out on wax paper to dry. Sometimes for rifles I use two coats.

It really doesn't take a heck of a lot of lube if it's good lube like liquid alox.

Like I mentioned above, the Lee 2nd Edition has a good section on casting. You can pick it up for around $10 and the loads in it are worth that if all else fails.

[jjjitters]

If you do the tumble lube, the Alox will be sticky, even after drying. sprinkle some powder corn starch on them and roll em again on a clean wax paper or cloth and it'll go away.

[USSR]

As previously stated, go to the cast bullets website. In addition to a bunch of very knowledgeable guys, they have group buys going on for unique custom-made moulds. I picked up several brass moulds made by a guy in Europe that are simply first-rate.

Don

[RustyFN]

Dragon doesn't the handle on the pot get hot without the wooden knob? Mine came without the knob, I called lee and they sent me one.

[dragon813gt]

I accidentally threw the knob away. I wear welders gloves when casting so it doesn't bother me. Now when a
sprue plate doesn't open easily by hand, that bothers me ;)
I thought about just making a knob but I've gotten used to it.

And as to the OP's questions. Everything you're asking can be answered by reading the manuals or running a google search. You're already on the Internet and the basic questions have been answered countless times. If you type in something like "cast boolits tumble lube" you will get results for specific threads that deal with that topic. And there is no waiting around for someone to type a response.

I also find the Lee Second Edition to have a good overview. You will get info on tumble lubing and push through sizing that works well for a lot of applications.


Brought to you by TapaTalk.

[Ruger44mag]

Do you need to pack lube in the lube groves on the bullets? The reason I'm asking is because all the cast bullets I have bought all had lube packed in the grooves.

I am defiantly going to check out the casting forum.

Thanks again for all the replies!

[jjjitters]

That is done with a lubrisizer. Its kind of like a single stage press that has a die and the bullet is pushed down into the die(it sizes it to the dia of the die), when the bullet is down the lube is pushed through holes in the die and fills up the groove. In tumble lubing you just coat the whole bullet with a film and not fill the groove. Two different methods.

[grubbylabs]

If you choose to tumble lube you can use Lee dies that fin in your single stage press. They are about 20.00. That is all I have used so far as I have not had the money to buy a lubing and sizing press. It has worked will for me so far. I imagine I will eventually get one. I have been able to push a 270 grain 44 call bullet out of a 444 lever at 2,100 fps without leading issues.

[jcwit]

I'll chime in here. I used to tumble lube using bullets I cast in Lee molds made for tumble lubed bullets. My bigest problem with the tumble lube set up was the lube would stick to the bullet seating ram and more and more would build up there by seating the bullet deep and deeper into the case. Solution was to clean the inside of the seating/crimping die every 10/15 rounds.

Finally gave up and purchased a lub/sizer press and problems solved.

[grubbylabs]

I have not noticed that problem, but I do have to clean the die and punch once in a while. I do gas check a 44 cal and a .460 bullet with gas checks but I also cast a 45 cal and another 44 call with a plain base.

[jcwit]

but I do have to clean the die and punch once in a while

Precisily what I mentioned.

[41 Mag]

To be honest, I poured my first REAL cast bullets last May. Before that I got the noted books and read through them, as well as hours upon hours of internet post and article searches. In fact I researched the "how to" for a bit over 6 months so once I DID get into it I would have the absolute necessity on tools and be able to go from 1 bullet to 1K with not much if any additional equipment. I don't have room for the lube sizer so the push through dies from Lee are my main tools for that.

As for the best information, the Castboolit site is LOADED with stickys, which go into great detail on many different aspects not to mention the post which can easily be searched. The next best thing to that has been the LASC site, and the free download From Ingot to Target, along with the also listed Cast Bullet Notes. There isn't much you can't do with the info on LASC, not only the Glen Fryxell articles but the others who have contributed as well.

As for lubes, I have tried several, but my mainstay is the 45/45/10 recipe noted as Recluse Lube on Castboolits. It is made by heating up Johnson's Paste Wax while stirring and keeping the temp just at the point it will smoke to release the solvents, after a period of around 15 or so minutes you add in an equal portion of what is left, of the Lee Alox, and shut the heat off and stir it for another 5 to 10 minutes. It sounds like a lot of work but the result will be a batch of lube that will last you multiple thousands of bullets. Most folks use too much, you only need enough to lightly coat the bullets period. I put enough on that I can see it therefore I know I am using to much, but I am pushing them to the magnum limits and don't sweat the little things.

dickttx,
The Lee mold is a 2 cavity one for the 452 255RF. I have it as well as the 6 cavity. THe biggest issue with the 2 cavity is it is a bit loosely built. If you set up a piece of square tubing or similar type raised rest on which you can close it on or rest it on when closing to keep the halves square it will last you a good while with no issues. I use the Lee 4-20 pot which I raised up years ago to allow me to pour up tubing cased surf weights. It had to be tall enough to alloy me to get up to a 5" piece of 1/2" copper or SS tubing under it while standing in a pan of sand with the legs installed. As such I have a nice high pot now. I use some aluminum square tubing and flat bar to set my mold heights so that I can get within 1/4" of the spout or 3/8" from the spout depending on which molds I am using. Some like to be close some not so close for fill out.

THe 6 cavity molds CAN be a bit much, but if you have them on something to help hold the weight where all your doing is sliding it from one hole to the next as you pour, then you only have to hold it long enough to cut the sprue and dump it makes life a whole lot easier. I use the 452 300RF C which is the gas checked bullet for my 454, as well as the 430 310RF for my 44. I simply LOVe the production, but you DO have to watch your pot level as it will go down fast with anything over 250grs and 6 cavities.

Hope this helps.

[A Pause for the Coz]

So you want to make some of these eh?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8342.jpg
Watch out its addicting.

Lots of great advice here. I would agree 100% Join Castboolits.

I have been casting for a year now.

Here is my list:
Lymans cast bullet manual. I have the one from 1973

LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8336.jpg

You will also need a hot plate. Not kidding ether. Get one! You want to preheat those molds.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8338.jpg

SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY!!!! Use the face shield, Welding gloves and heavy LS shirt.
If you accidentally drop a ingot with moisture in it. You want some thing other than you face to catch the 650 deg spray.
Pretty rare and almost imposable if you follow safety rules. But never know. Be SAFE!!!

Also of good use is a old Colman stove and a pot. For melting WW and Larger lead chunks. I just use a steel sauce pan from the Goodwill.
And aluminum muffin tin.
( I tried steel tins but the ingots stick to them)

Molds: LEE molds work fine. 45 ACP or .358 are easy to learn on.
Does not really matter what one. If the bug hits. You will have a junk drawer full any way.

You will need to lube then before shooting.
You dont need to go nuts with it to start out.
Tumble lube and shooting as cast will get you in the door.
NOTE: You can Tumble lube standard lube groove bullets and they work just fine.

Then you can learn pan lubing:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8347.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8349.jpg

LEE push through sizers work great!!!
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8348.jpg

Or you can opt for a lube sizer.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8346.jpg

Then after learning what and what not to do.
You can shoot some real nice groups.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8371.jpg

Enjoy!!!!

[Ruger44mag]

So you want to make some of these eh?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8342.jpg
Watch out its addicting.

Lots of great advice here. I would agree 100% Join Castboolits.

I have been casting for a year now.

Here is my list:
Lymans cast bullet manual. I have the one from 1973

LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8336.jpg

You will also need a hot plate. Not kidding ether. Get one! You want to preheat those molds.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8338.jpg

SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY!!!! Use the face shield, Welding gloves and heavy LS shirt.
If you accidentally drop a ingot with moisture in it. You want some thing other than you face to catch the 650 deg spray.
Pretty rare and almost imposable if you follow safety rules. But never know. Be SAFE!!!

Also of good use is a old Colman stove and a pot. For melting WW and Larger lead chunks. I just use a steel sauce pan from the Goodwill.
And aluminum muffin tin.
( I tried steel tins but the ingots stick to them)

Molds: LEE molds work fine. 45 ACP or .358 are easy to learn on.
Does not really matter what one. If the bug hits. You will have a junk drawer full any way.

You will need to lube then before shooting.
You dont need to go nuts with it to start out.
Tumble lube and shooting as cast will get you in the door.
NOTE: You can Tumble lube standard lube groove bullets and they work just fine.

Then you can learn pan lubing:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8347.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8349.jpg

LEE push through sizers work great!!!
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8348.jpg

Or you can opt for a lube sizer.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8346.jpg

Then after learning what and what not to do.
You can shoot some real nice groups.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d66/Kelly2215/100_8371.jpg

Enjoy!!!!
Nice pics! I am sitting on my end of the computer chomping at the bit! Today I'm buying the Lyman manual so I will have some good reading.

[jcwit]

918v

Please do.


Say what?

What you do need is a furnace, a thermometer, a mold and appropriate handles, a sizer, some pans to lube with, a pair of pliers, a towel, a heat gun, beeswax, alox, turkey baster, hot plate, a large piece of cardboard, an ingot mold, and a hardness tester.



Please explain why one would need all that.
Fifty years ago I started with a single Coleman camp stove which I still use, a small Lee lead pot, a Lee dipper, molds from various manufacturers, and Lee Alox tumble lube. I now have added 2 Lyman 45 lube/sizers, and a SAECO hardness tester, which I have no use for.

I to this day see no absolute need for a furnace, a thermometer, pans to lube with?, a heat gun, turkey baster, or a hot plate.

While the Lyman Manual is not an absolute necessity, it definitely is something I would recommend.

[jjjitters]

While I don't agree 100% with him on many instances I can see why some of those recomendations.
furnace = lee(or other brand) melting pot, or coleman stove and kettle(need one for smelting anyways,if you do that part)
Thermometer= can get by without, but is nice to know how hot the lead is
mold= several, with handles
sizer= depends if you can get by as cast
pans to lube with= for pan lubing, don't need if tumble lubing
pliers= many,many uses
towel= to drop bullets on out of mold
beeswax= for making your own lube ,if you go that route
turkey baster= I do know there is a reason, but cannot think of it right now,don't know if necessary
hot plate= pre heating molds, very useful
ingot mold= not needed if buying lead already in ingots
hardness tester= personal preference, can get by without easily, nice for repeating alloy.

opinions may vary

[918v]

Please explain why one would need all that.

Thank you for your intelligent approach. It is refreshing. Jjjittets covered it. The turkey baster is for introducing lube go the pan or for adding lube to the pan. I found that bullets need to be very hot in the pan else the lube won't fill the grooves. So I place the bullets in the pan, let them warm up, then use the turkey baster to add lube without getting the bullet noses covered.

I use needle nose pliers to pull the bullets from the lube. Javelina does not allow one to pop the cake out of the pan to push the bullets out by their bases.

I use a heat gun to preheat my molds. I dont want to risk warping my irreplaceable H&G and Lyman molds. I put them on the sidewalk, I put the heat gun down next to the mold, and let the two get warmer. The mold hets hot enough go cast a perfect bullet on the first try. And most people have these things anyhow.

I size using Lee sizer dies. They quick and easy. So is pan lubing.

[jcwit]

Ok, I'll buy those explanations, altho I use/do none of them.

I do no pan lubing, at first I used to tumble lube, I now use a one of 2 lube sizers I've purchased along the way. Both are old Lyman 45's I've picked up used, only have $25 in the 2, plus lucked into the more common sizes at least the sizes I needed. At any rate that covers the pans, needlenose pliers, turkey baster.

Using a heat gun to heat up the mold, now there's an idea, never thought of, might try it. I'm really not worried about warping the molds, have always just heated my mold on top of the Coleman stove along with the lead.

[mdi]

I pan lube a lot of bullets and I would never use pliers to yank a bullet out of the lube. Do the new grooves and scratches on the nose help accuracy? The only turkey baster use I've seen is some "expert" on youtube. Mebbe he gets lube in the grooves, but there are easier, better, less messy ways to accomplish this.

For lube to stick in the lube groove, bullets and lube should be the same temp. As noted by another poster, heating the lube with the bullets in a toaster oven works very well (as did the kitchen oven until I got caught!). I use some good lubes that don't "punch out" of the cake well so I just made cake cutters out of stainless steel tubing, reamed to a few thousandths over bullet diameter. By cutting bullets out I don't have to wait for the cake to reach the temp where bullets punch out; I just let the cake/bullets cool and cut them out. I've been using this method for 17 years and it has worked on everything I tried it with. I shoot magnum loads (in .44 Mag. and .357 Mag.) with plain based, air cooled bullets and get no leading.

Best thing is to not overload yourself with equipment and info. Check Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, and use common sence.

[blarby]

Best advice I can give- get the largest capacity molds you can.

I think pretty much everything else has been covered....at length.

[918v]

I pan lube a lot of bullets and I would never use pliers to yank a bullet out of the lube. Do the new grooves and scratches on the nose help accuracy? The only turkey baster use I've seen is some "expert" on youtube. Mebbe he gets lube in the grooves, but there are easier, better, less messy ways to accomplish this.

The plier marks on the nose do not detract from accuracy and are no more noticeable then the casting line. How do you propose I get the bullets out of a Javalina cake?

As far as the turkey baster goes, what do you do to avoid getting lube all over the bullet noses?

[Elkins45]

As far as the turkey baster goes, what do you do to avoid getting lube all over the bullet noses?

I avoid it by not pan lubing :)

[mdi]

The plier marks on the nose do not detract from accuracy and are no more noticeable then the casting line. How do you propose I get the bullets out of a Javalina cake?

As far as the turkey baster goes, what do you do to avoid getting lube all over the bullet noses?
Common sense. My bullets don't have lube on the nose because I don't dunk them. I don't lay the bullets on their side in the lube. I don't try to lube a 1" long bullet in a pan 2" deep! How do you keep lube from solidifying inside a turkey baster? Suck up some liquid lube, immediately it begins to cool (you can't heat a plastic baster), move over to the pan (more time for the lube to cool), and squirt it into the pan. Remaining lube hardens in the baster?

[918v]

The lube does not harden in the baster.

You cannot pour the lube into the pan without soiling the bullet noses.

[jmorris]

I think pretty much everything else has been covered....at length.

Except the easy way. I built a copy of the master caster and automated it. Takes all of the work out of the casting process. The 60# pot is heated by a $9 3500w oven element.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29452&d=1128176336
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/caster3.jpg
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/caster5.jpg
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/caster1.jpg
http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/caster4.jpg

[Walkalong]

You are a regular genius. Your machinery is awesome. :)

[jcwit]

Sure beats my Lee pot, Coleman single burner stove, and Lee dipper.

[blarby]

Thats fantastic.

I would buy this before dropping 20 g's on a mastercaster.

[ReloaderFred]

The Master Caster is $995.00, plus shipping. http://www.magmaengineering.com/products/master-caster/

I bought mine used for $500.00, plus $85.00 shipping (it ain't small and light). It included one two cavity .41 mold. There are deals out there, but they don't last long...

I've probably cast somewhere around 40,000 bullets on mine in the last two years. I sure couldn't do that hand casting, nor would I want to. I've got a little over 30 molds for it now and can cover most of my more common calibers with it.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[jmorris]

There is one over at brianenos.com with 4 molds for $850. Posted on the 13th so I bet there is wiggle room in the price. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=159143&view=findpost&p=1778990&hl=master+caster&fromsearch=1

The above machine was my first attempt at bullet casting so I really didn't want to put a lot of money into it. $1000 buys a lot of bullets.

[Certaindeaf]

jmorris,

You're my hero! That thing is so cool.

What are those round tubes in the background.. lead pipe?

[jmorris]

Thanks guys, I just like building stuff and am lucky enough to have the time.


The aluminum tubes were part of a project I was in the middle of back then. They were pressure tanks I welded up for corrosionx aviation to be applied in tight spaces inside aircraft.


http://www.corrosionx.com/images/handi-spray-belt-pak.jpg

[bigmouth]

PAM is the answer! Spread the word. I have been casting bullets for 55 yrs now & just had an idea that works, - for a change. I found several yrs ago that wiping the inside of ice trays with PAM lets the ice cubes just drop out. While casting bullets recently, that thought came back to me. Why not? I sprayed the mold cavity & now instead of hitting the hinge pin maybe 3-6 times, 1 tap & they fall out!
I had to quit reloading yrs ago when I moved to a pagan country that doesn't allow it. Now I'm wondering if PAM won't work well for swagging bullets, wiped in dies etc.. Try it & give some feed-back.
I seldom follow THR, though a member, so you spread the word of this miracle as it needs to be shared.

[bigmouth]

I'm an A&P and use the same basic method. I see where the small bottle may come in handy in the future. Thanks but have a question if you are knowledgeable about CorrosionX. I live in the Islands with salty air. I've found that salt will migrate thru oil etc. & still corrode. I Like to use baking soda & water first to kill electrolysis first. Experience (45 yrs) makes me think that salt will migrate thru Corrosion X just like it does thru oil etc.. Do you have info. on this. Since this is non gun related, it might be better to just mail me @: fauxpasunltd@gmail.com

[blarby]

I would never use pam on an ice tray. I dont want oily beverages.......

[Nappers]

The Lyman Big Dipper kit has the Lyman casting manual. Dipper. Ingot mold with handle. 3-4 different lubes to mess with. Of course the furnace. My only experience is round balls for muzzle loading. I get my lead at a local metals shop for $.75 a pound.

The kit is about $80.00 give or take. And the manual is awesome with part numbers for moulds etc.

[GLOOB]

LEE 20 pound pot. ( get the 20 pounder right away. You will just end up with it any way. Save your self some money)
This is what I did after reading the customer reviews. Seems like every other person posts the same advice. I was surprised how small even the 20 lb pot was when it arrived. For reclaiming scrap lead, you definitely need something bigger.

With a bottom pour, you don't have to flux while you cast. Notice that the shape of the Lee furnace is rather tall and thin. The oxidized layer covering the top remains undisturbed by dipping, and it effectively shields the rest of the alloy from atmospheric oxygen. You can pretty much keep casting until the pot is nearly empty without fluxing. No fluxing means no smoke, means you can even cast indoors with only modest ventilation if you wanted to.

[jmorris]

I would never use pam on an ice tray. I dont want oily beverages.......

I think the idea was to wipe a film of Pam on the tray not hose it down.

I smoke mine with an Oxy/Act torch...molds of course, not my ice trays.

[Pierce]

the equiptment is basic with minor variations. I found having multiple molds important to maintain temperature control. A single mold gets really hot quickly and alternating is important. Smoking the molds is a technique to assure good release. I drop my bullets into a 5 gallon of bucket of cold water straight from the mold and the hardness seems more consistent. It takes a little practice to get uniform weights and I still sort them after I cast them. Ive only loaded handgun 44's and 38s no rifle yet. A good bottom drop melter makes life so much easier and a thermometer is really something you want on hand it tells you more than how hot things are. Just do your homework and plan on a learning curve. Its fun and maybe a little frustrating until you discover how to control the heat, its important that your molds dont overheat.

[blarby]

I found having multiple molds important to maintain temperature control.

Correct timing sequence, or a cool relief period, also cures this issue.

Some of my molds are $160 each. I cant afford two of them. I can afford 15 seconds between pourings, give or take.

[Certaindeaf]

If I understand correctly, water dropping merely makes them as hard as they can/are going to be immediately where normal air cooling achieves that same maximum hardness in like three weeks or something. I don't bother with water dropping. Sometimes I heat treat though.

[jjjitters]

Or a cool damp rag to set the mold on for a breif time, any moisture evaporates right off. I also have an air line coming off the wall by my casting area so I have a short hose and nozzle that I will blow the mold, it speeds up cooling plus keeps them clean.
Most hp molds(MP & NOE are 2 types I have) require as much heat as possible, cooling off will never be an issue. Usually I have to take a torch to heat the pins(not red) every so many pours just to keep the noses filling out good. Those molds end up with frosted bullet because of all the heat, but not much that can be done about it. There is a small window of good fillout and non frosted that is hard to keep into.

Air cooling won't allow them to age harden as much as water dropping. A more consistant way to get all bullets the same hardness(important for max accuracy)is to oven harden them. You place all the bullets in baskets and heat them in an oven to specific temps and keep them there for 1/2 to 2 hrs depending on hardness desired. Then quickly take them out and dunk in cold water. This way all bullets are heated to the same temp and cooled the in same time period.

[blarby]

Air cooling won't allow them to age harden as much as water dropping. A more consistant way to get all bullets the same hardness(important for max accuracy)is to oven harden them. You place all the bullets in baskets and heat them in an oven to specific temps and keep them there for 1/2 to 2 hrs depending on hardness desired. Then quickly take them out and dunk in cold water. This way all bullets are heated to the same temp and cooled the in same time period.

If you time your castings, water dropping produces a similar result.

The benefit to water dropping becomes much more evident if you cross section a bullet.

You end up with multiple layers of different hardness if you start with the right alloy, which can have a profoundly useful effect in bore sealing.

[bigmouth]

I said you wipe it on, not spray on. You can wipe out all you can & enough remains to work great & no oil or taste. Now back to casting.