Ruger Blackhawk trigger work


October 2, 2012, 05:08 PM
Hey guys!

I have a ruger blackhawk, but there is a lot of creep in the trigger. How do I go about getting rid of it? Should I buy a new spring? A new trigger altogether? How much will a gunsmith charge for the job?

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October 2, 2012, 05:25 PM
Try the "Poor Boy" trigger job first:

October 2, 2012, 06:25 PM
Thanks for that website, but i don't really feel comfortable leaving parts hanging off of my gun as in that method. What does a gunsmith do for a trigger job? (ie, differently than that one)

October 2, 2012, 08:11 PM
A gunsmith uses a proper jigs and stones to polish the hammer, sear, and other parts to obtain a smooth fit at the correct angles to ensure a safe and lasting trigger job. Attempting to do the job without the proper jigs and stone may get you an acceptible job, but more likely will leave you with useless, unsafe parts. I recommend the Jerry Kuhnhausen manual on Ruger Single Actions avaialble from Brownells, Midaway, Amazon, the publisher (, and other sources. Once you've read that cover to cover and digested the contents, if you still wish to do it yourself, you are at least informed of the intricacies of such work.

As for the poor man's trigger job, leaving one leg of the factory spring loose is a broadly accepted technique that causes no problems.

October 2, 2012, 08:50 PM
Thanks for the book recommendation, I love reading about rugers! I think I'm gonna find a gunsmith to do it.

That's interesting, it seems like it would be bad for it.

Thanks guys

October 2, 2012, 09:03 PM
I tried to poor mans trigger job and after a few years just put the spring back on. I had no problems and it's easily reversible if you don't like it, pretty cheap to:)

Jim, West PA
October 3, 2012, 04:19 PM
Thanx for the link triple B Bill.
I just ordered the book from Heritage and i wanna tell ya, some seriously nice folk there !!!!
She had me laughin when she said....." we're a goverment UNfriendly company" !!:cool:
She was also very technicaly educated on Jerry Kuhnhausens' writings
And Ruger SA's.
Also, thier price and shippin is cheaper than anyone else.
($38.95 with $4.00 postage & handling to U.S.A. destination)

October 3, 2012, 07:01 PM
Jim, you're welcome! I've found them to be great folks. Their phone service was a bit iffy at times for several years. They are so far up in Idaho that you have to pump sunshine in there. Utilities are challenged by the remoteness and terrain, and the low population density doesn't create much demand for more robust infrastructure. My kinda place.... :)

Jim, West PA
October 5, 2012, 12:16 AM
Well now, that explains her extensive knowledge.
Caint be much more to do up there 'cides read.
Thanx Again Bill. Really lookin forward to learnin from the book.

October 5, 2012, 01:00 AM
Poor mans trigger job is cheap and effective. Ive put almost 1,000 rounds through my blackhawk since i did money i never spent.:cool:

October 5, 2012, 07:12 PM
It sounds like the poor man's trigger job will lessen pull weight, not creep. Am I right?

October 5, 2012, 07:49 PM
You are correct if the only thing you do is pop off one side of the spring. The other part is boosting the hammer which, if done carefully, can iron out some of the factory machining irregularities on the hammer/sear interface. It will not work as well as a proper trigger job, but it can help the feel quite a bit in some cases. Just don't go hog wild with it. Some folks press up on the hammer spur like they're trying to lift a tree off a car. That can break things.

Bob Bonillas
October 5, 2012, 09:41 PM
A lot can be done by changing springs. Wolff Springs offers a variety of choices.

October 5, 2012, 11:19 PM
The creep is caused by the depth of the engagement by the sear in the hammer notch. Springs will have no effect on this kind of creep. The hammer needs to be stoned for shallower sear engagement by someone who KNOWS what they're doing. There is no other way to fix creep on a Ruger. Ruger has been sued so many times by so many fools that they have resorted to building very "safe" guns in order to stay in business. The horrible triggers that this produces are here to stay. "First thing we do let's kill all of the lawyers."

highlander 5
October 6, 2012, 09:46 AM
The smith I use charges $100 for an action job,that includes shipping and cost of ammo for testing. Replacing the mainspring can't hurt,I've had loads of Ruger revolver and they all have some seriously heavy mainsprings. The last Ruger SA i had worked on I had the mainspring reduced by 10% and have yet to have a misfire. IIRC Ruger mainsprings for their SA are in the 22-24 lb range.

dagger dog
October 6, 2012, 08:12 PM
I had the same creep on my new NMBH, plus it failed to carry up when cocked slowly.
It wasn't gritty just creep.

Tried boosting the hammer, did the poormans trigger job, even filled the action with a very fine polishing compound and went through about 1000 cycles, NADA, NIX,ZERO ZILCH,DIDN'T PASS GO AND DIDN'T COLLECT ANY THING BUT DUST, and it took forever to get all that %$#@$ out of the action.

The only way your gonna get rid of the creep is to reshape the trigger to hammer sear angle and that ain't no job for a hobby gunsmith . But there is hope and you can do this yourself.

I bought a Power Custom Bisley trigger, hammer ,spring kit and it was worth every bit of the $$$$. Installed it myself and it took care of the carry up problem too. I kept the original hammer spring but used the lighter trigger return spring, and added the extra power base pin latch spring. You have to modify the Bisley trigger to fit the BH grip frame, it's easy, you just can't let it get hot.

The trigger lets off at 3.5# zero creep, and can't be jarred off and is 100% safe, plus it has the added 1/2 cock feature and the chambers line up at the loading gate with the clicks, plus it sounds like a Colt when you cock it.

I did the free spin mod on the hand (pawl) but didn't like not having the clicks when the cylinder is turned with the loading gate open, so I ordered a new hand when I ordered the kit. Replaced the aluminum ejector rod housing and rod with a steel housing and bullseye rod.

Next will be a steel grip frame in the original NMBH shape, I hate those aluminum parts, wish Ruger would wise up and make 'em all steel,I would gladly pay the extra $$.

It's almost a custom, can't afford a Linebaugh !

Red Cent
October 7, 2012, 04:45 PM
I thought aafter 2004, all models had steel grip frames.

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