[Ric]

I have seen gunsmiths that polish a stripe around the drag line of a revolver cylinder, Grant Cunningham for one.
Does this do any good?
If it does how is it done?

[GLOOB]

It makes the line less pronounced by removing the displaced metal that gets pushed up to the sides of the drag line? Removing this pushed out metal works wonders for cleaning up laser etching or pressure engraving pencil. I recommend you do try this if you ever refinish a gun that has been laser etched or engraved.

[Drail]

It greatly lowers drag on the bolt and it doesn't scribe as noticeable a line on the cylinder, especially if you polish the bolt face to a mirror also.

[Jim Watson]

Wouldn't it reduce drag more if the action were timed so the cylinder stop didn't drag?
Or is that a reasonable goal on a S&W or Ruger? (I know it is possible on Colt.)

He probably sets the cylinder up in a lathe with some sort of polishing head on the toolpost.

[dfariswheel]

You can't/shouldn't attempt to time a S&W or most other revolvers to drop the bolt closer to the locking notch.
Only the older Colt action was designed to be timed that way.

Attempt to time a S&W, Ruger, Dan Wesson, or a later model Colt like a Mark III, King Cobra, or Anaconda to drop closer to the locking notch and the gun will "throw by".
This means that in double action the locking bolt will fail to catch and lock into the cylinder notch and the cylinder will rotate too far.
This allows firing in an unlocked condition with bullets hitting the end of the barrel, or not firing at all.

Notice that the older Colt actions have a much longer leade before the actual locking notch, while all other revolvers have a very short leade.

Mostly what polishing the band around the cylinder does is make the drag line less noticeable and adds a custom look to the cylinder.
You can get the same effect by using a fine grit Scotchbrite pad to give the cylinder a grained finish sideways instead of lengthwise.

Here's two S&W Model 66 revolvers with the cylinders given a grained finish with a Scotchbrite pad. Even though these guns are well used, you can barely see the drag line.
That's simply because the grain runs sideways instead of lengthwise.
Polishing to a mirror-like finish is unnecessary ans is really just to add a custom look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/dfariswheel/SWModel66.jpg

[Jim K]

Just FWIW on the subject of engraved revolvers. Good engravers never engrave the drag line area of revolvers. They leave an un-engraved "ring" around the cylinder. Otherwise, the cylinder stop will mar the engraving and the gun will look like heck.

Jim

[Drail]

And the engraving will wear the bolt down faster. I don't understand all the fuss about cylinder drag lines. (or safe queens in general) It doesn't hurt anything.

[beag_nut]

I have seen gunsmiths that polish a stripe around the drag line of a revolver cylinder, Grant Cunningham for one.
Does this do any good?
If it does how is it done?

No, it is a worthless procedure for 99.9% of shooters. Unless you are Jerry Miculek, who is THE master of fancy shooting today.

[351 WINCHESTER]

Has anyone tried just stoning the top of the bolt a bit to eleminate the dreaded drag line? Any ill effects on a S & W?

[ColtPythonElite]

I would keep my stone away from the bolt. Too much off and it can fail to lock.

[Drail]

Don't use a stone. Use fine grit sandpaper. (after you remove it from the gun)

[dfariswheel]

With the bolt OUT of the frame, lightly smooth, (Note not "polish") the top of the bolt. You want smooth, not "like a mirror".

VERY, very, very, very lightly break the sharp edges on the top of the bolt where it contacts the cylinder. This means about ONE LIGHT stroke with a fine ceramic stone.