Need a space heater for my reloading area


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Shmackey
October 12, 2012, 01:25 PM
I moved into a new place last March and wasted no time dedicating the large one-car garage to reloading (and a photo studio). Previously, my reloading area was in a heated part of the house.

It's only October, and I'm finding it less than pleasant to work in the garage when it's 35 degrees outside (early morning). I would imagine it will be much worse in a few months. So I'm looking for a space heater that can warm up at least half of a garage that's about 12x28x12. The only ones I've used are meant for smaller spaces. Any suggestions? Availability from Amazon is a plus, and it would be great if the space heater had a compartment for about 800 loose primers and four pounds of mixed powder.*

Thanks!

*Ha. I slay me.

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ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 01:31 PM
My garage is the same size.... I heat it with a propane radiant heater that hangs on the wall. I use a 100 pound tank.

NeuseRvrRat
October 12, 2012, 01:35 PM
is the garage insulated?

Certaindeaf
October 12, 2012, 01:47 PM
If you go the combustion route, be careful of carbon monoxide poisoning/death.. it either has to catalyze, the exhaust/combustion gasses be vented/evacuated or the whole garage have sufficient airflow to be safe. Have a carbon monoxide alarm if you go old school.

I'd be tempted to use a small wood burning stove if possible.. be safe.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 01:51 PM
Yeah, I forgot to mention mine is vent-free.

Cosmoline
October 12, 2012, 01:52 PM
That's SHORTS weather!

For the shed at forty below I used to use one of the "R2D2" style kerosene heaters. Those suckers REALLY crank out the BTU's and will absolutely keep a mere 10 above or 0 at bay. But they're also cranking out monoxide so you do need to be careful about ventilation. Crack a garage door and get a monoxide monitor if you go that route.

If you use a propane heater get a proper one like the Mister Heaters. Don't go with a mere camp heater as they are not for continuous output over time. My Coleman decided it wanted to be a flame thrower and nearly burned me out. I like the Mister Heater heater/cooker in particular. You can flip it on its back and set a pot on it for hot water--not a bad thing if you're working with smoke poles.

But realistically a small electric heater with a fan plus some insulated carharts should be more than enough even for lower 48'ers. Most of the trick is just acclimation and keeping your feet warm. I have a pair of old boiled wool felt boots from Norway that are cozy even at subzero temps, without socks.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 01:56 PM
I also have one of those round kero heaters I used before I went propane....Problem with them is they now expensive to fuel.

45lcshooter
October 12, 2012, 02:17 PM
Id say if your going to keep the garage a reloading spot and photo studio. put a wall up where the garage door is and insulate. but if your still keeping the garage as a garage, i would probally say a propane heater, almost like a camp heater. I think Coleman made them, i think they were called Wildcat or something like that, just put a regulator on, or fab one for a 20lb tank or larger.

blarby
October 12, 2012, 02:37 PM
If you have no venting, fuel based heating is out.

Your poor wife will find you face down in a pile of beautiful ammunition- out for the long sleep.

I would recommend what has been stated above- sectioning off your reloading portion, and insulating it.

Even if you cant, theres something I used in my garage days that is amazingly simple, and can be placed anywhere there is a light bulb socket :

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiCare-Ceramic-Infrared/dp/B0002AQCQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1350066934&sr=8-1&keywords=infrared+heater+socket

You can work up to whatever wattage you want, and they are directional heat.

I had one of those 6-lamp direction/lamp torchlights with these in it, and it was a wall of friggin heat baby ! If you mounted them overhead, it would be raining heat on you.

These have the added benefit of having no exposed red heat- so your combustion possibilities are very limited. One of those space heaters with elements and fans works good- until you spill powder near it, it sucks 1/3 # of it up, and you have a very short duration one shot flamethrower.

Oh, and that will kill your heater pretty good too, btw. Believe me, it can happen......... just please believe me.

KansasSasquatch
October 12, 2012, 02:59 PM
I don't have personal experience with this one http://www.amazon.com/Lifesmart-Compact-Square-Infrared-Heater/dp/B0094XU8VK/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1350067872&sr=1-4 but I would check it out if I were in your situation. Your garage is roughly 336 sq ft going by your measurements but without being properly insulated and having a high ceiling you'd want to get something that is rated for at least double that. Plus this one has a remote that could come in handy if you want to get the garage pre-warmed before you go out. Crack the door and hit the button, wait 15 minutes. Also has timer setting that could be useful. I definitely wouldn't want anykind of fossil fuel burning heater near my reloading bench.

Other than that I would consider adding some good insulation to the garage and running some duct from my HVAC system to the garage. But there's a lot of variables that go into whether or not that is a good solution.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 03:34 PM
Anything you can plug into an outlet is a max of 1500 watts, which is about 5200 btu...That is too little for a garage.

jmorris
October 12, 2012, 05:02 PM
I threw one together for my shop that has the fire outside in a 55 gallon drum inside a 3' diameter 5' long section of 1/2" pipe. A fan blows air around the outside of the drum and into the shop.

No flame in the shop, no smoke or smell just hot air. Depends on how you have the damper set but I have measured output temps at 180 degrees at 380 CFM.

cfullgraf
October 12, 2012, 05:15 PM
Yes, without some insulation, you will need lots of btu's.

If you have or can add a 220v socket, there are various electric heaters available for the farm and agriculture industry that work well. I got one for my shop that is about 12-15" in diameter with a forced air fan. Much more effective than the 1500w space heaters available at Wally World.

There are a variety of other heaters that are available.

Agri-Supply and FarmTek (or something like that) are a couple sources.

Also, I just learned about the ClimateRight portable HVAC units. Neat little units although limited in size.

http://www.climaterightair.com

Otto
October 12, 2012, 05:48 PM
Bought one of these at Costco...it does the job. Cost about 10 cents an hour in electricity to run.

http://images.costco.com/image/media/oos350-527078-847__3.jpg

Krogen
October 12, 2012, 05:51 PM
If you have forced air, is there any chance your furnace or its ductwork is in or near the garage? Could be a simple solution

jcwit
October 12, 2012, 06:05 PM
If you have no venting, fuel based heating is out.

Your poor wife will find you face down in a pile of beautiful ammunition- out for the long sleep.



Not in my 30 plus years of experience.

I have used unvented kerosene radiant heaters for supplemental heat both in my shop and house for 30 years. No problem with carbon monoxide gas and yes I do have CO detectors in both areas that they are used in.

Nanook
October 12, 2012, 07:19 PM
Vent-free heaters are available, in both propane and natural gas. I used one in my garage before I put in a Modine Hot Dawg with B vent piping to the outside.

The vent-free worked very well, the model I have has an optional fan which I bought and installed. It kept a 2 car garage positively toasty while I insulated the garage and built my reloading bench.

The Modine is much nicer, and it fits 1/2" from the ceiling so it's out of the way. The one drawback for the vent-free heaters is they do add some moisture to the air in the garage.

But in Chicago area winters, they do the job.

Hondo 60
October 12, 2012, 08:03 PM
Sorry, but my life is worth way too much to me to be cheap.
I guess I learned that from my ex-father-in-law.

When he wanted to work in the garage in winter he had his garage plumbed for natural gas.
& had a heating & AC company install a small furnace.

Ya, it cost him a few bucks, but there's no CO or CO2 worries.

If the place is a rental unit, talk to the landlord.
I once rented a place that had no gas in the kitchen.
Well my stove was gas, so he paid to have the gas piped in.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 08:15 PM
A propane, natural gas, or kerosene heater working properly, used correctly, and backed up by a carbon monoxide detector is safe.

jcwit
October 12, 2012, 08:33 PM
Correct! As is casting lead.

Pacsd
October 12, 2012, 08:35 PM
One thing you have to be carefull about is air movement around your scale. I know wood burners are a PITA but I've seen some in guys garages that will run you out with a fan above and behind it to push the warm air down.

dagger dog
October 12, 2012, 08:37 PM
jmorris,

Good looking rig, "necessity is the mother of invention", and I bet all the materials were at hand.

I thought of moving my auxillary wood burner outside, it's in my basement (cellar). The only advantage of it being there is the radiant heat warms the floor. The drawback of it being there is the constant clean up and moving the fuel
(24" logs) twice.

JLDickmon
October 12, 2012, 09:27 PM
I also have one of those round kero heaters I used before I went propane....Problem with them is they now expensive to fuel.

Use dyed diesel fuel in it.
Now that it's ultra-low sulfur, it doesn't burn your eyes..

Usually about a buck a gallon less than kero, and it's the same fuel.

Diesel, kero, and JP8 are all made from the same stock. The only differences are the anti-microbials and the dye.

dagger dog
October 12, 2012, 09:39 PM
#2 diesel "home heating oil" goes for the same price as automotive diesel minus the road tax, it is dyed red so it can be identified as such,it is only to be used for heating or farm use.


I don't know of any place you can buy it by the gallon, I have to buy a minium of 150 gallons.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 09:42 PM
Trouble is according to the manufacturer of the Dynaglo heater, the burn time for 1.9 gallons is 8 to 12 hours....Not real cost effective of heat, IMO.

rcmodel
October 12, 2012, 09:51 PM
If you have forced air, is there any chance your furnace or its ductwork is in or near the garage? Could be a simple solution What he said.

A HVAC guy can probably put a furnace vent and cold air return in your garage way cheaper then an industrial strength propane or kerosene heater and fuel will cost you in the long run.

And it won't fill your house with fumes and carbon monoxide and kill you if you forget to turn it off when you go to bed.

rc

JLDickmon
October 12, 2012, 09:53 PM
well, it's not meant to be a primary heat source..
Heck, a Salamander goes through twice that amount of fuel...

I've got a 100K btu propane one in the barn, with a 65k btu ceiling unit (propane).. when you first get out there, you kick on the Salamander, let it warm it up to about 70 degrees, then shut it down and turn on the ceiling unit. If it's not windy, it'll stay 65 degrees in there when it's 15 outside.

ColtPythonElite
October 12, 2012, 09:58 PM
I would guess the OP would prefer something that will maintain a constant temp. I know I did in my garage, which is why switched from a wide open all the time kero heater to a propane unit with a thermostat.

jcwit
October 12, 2012, 10:03 PM
And it won't fill your house with fumes and carbon monoxide and kill you if you forget to turn it off when you go to bed.

Ain't gonna happen with a heater using the proper wick and adjusted as per the instructions.

I've used an Aladdin Temp-Rite 15 for over 30 years now, I replace the wick every other year. I use K-1 kerosene undyed available here at most gas stations with its own pump. Can also purchase K-1 Kerosene from the bulk deliverly truck if purchasing 50 gallons or more at one time. Todays cost is $4.09 per gal., its cheaper if I buy it from the bulk truck tho. One gal in my heater lasts a little over 12 hours.

As far as "forgetting" I have no more worry about doing that than "forgetting" to keep the muzzle pointed down range, or "forgetting" to check my powder measure for the correct charge.

Just for the record, I'm also able to purchase "white gas" AKA "Naptha" at the pump also, pumped 5 gallons 2 days ago for $4.79 a gallon.

My CO tester also gets a new battery every year, and is tested by our local Fire Dept.

jmorris
October 12, 2012, 10:49 PM
I also have the heaters out of my Grandmothers house that ran off of NG. Converted one of the thermostat controlled one to LP (just a jet and pressure regulator.

Carbon dixoide detectors didn't exist back then and 3 dearborn NG heaters and the one below didn't kill anyone in the family of 6.

I use wood because its free except for gas for the chainsaw and splitter. Wood also heats twice, once when you get it ready to burn and again when you burn it.

medalguy
October 12, 2012, 11:40 PM
I use one of these in my well-insulated reloading room and it'll drive me out of the room in 20 degree weather if it's turned up very high. No flame, smoke, CO.

http://www.jcpenney.com/dotcom/for-the-home/categories/home-environment/heaters/holmes-oil-heater/prod.jump?ppId=1dbe583&cm_mmc=ShoppingFeed-_-GooglePLA-_-For%20The%20Home-_-1dbe583&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1dbe583

jibjab
October 12, 2012, 11:47 PM
I use one of these in my well-insulated reloading room
http://www.jcpenney.com/dotcom/for-t...ci_sku=1dbe583
Me too, I have used a similar heater in the garage for 8 yrs seems safe and adequate.

hentown
October 13, 2012, 08:13 AM
Vent-free heaters are available, in both propane and natural gas. I used one in my garage before I put in a Modine Hot Dawg with B vent piping to the outside.

The vent-free worked very well, the model I have has an optional fan which I bought and installed. It kept a 2 car garage positively toasty while I insulated the garage and built my reloading bench.

The Modine is much nicer, and it fits 1/2" from the ceiling so it's out of the way. The one drawback for the vent-free heaters is they do add some moisture to the air in the garage.

But in Chicago area winters, they do the job.
__________________

This is the way to go! I'd get one with the thermostatically-controlled fan, also. My brother heats his house with propane heaters like that, and he's still kicking. If the OP needs a placebo, I'd suggest a $30 carbon monoxide detector. All those heaters have low oxygen sensors, and they'll turn off, if the oxygen level gets too low. Check this one out, as well as the others on the same page:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Propane-Radiant-MHVFR20TB/dp/B000UPO28G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1350130449&sr=8-4&keywords=ventless+propane+heater

bikerdoc
October 13, 2012, 09:07 AM
Years ago, I got my old house that was in the same family since 41. they converted the small attached garage to an office/half bath/ laundry room, heated by a wood stove. Blew in some insulation, sold the wood stove, upgraded the panel, hooked up some dedicated line baseboard electric heat, voila comfortable man cave.

FROGO207
October 13, 2012, 10:27 AM
If you can swing it the direct vent Propane or Nat gas heaters that Rinnai make are good ones for a garage. They take combustion air from outside and also vent outside through a single vent pipe. They have a heat circulation fan and modulate the burner for max efficiency. Model RHFE-1004FTA gives 38,400 BTU's and that will heat the typical semi insulated garage in Maine with ease. Having the venting outside means no carbon monoxide or excessive moisture to deal with either. There are smaller models available for you if the area is smaller that you want to heat. There are a bunch of similar brands out there available from the big box stores but the company I work for installs these and they seem the most trouble free and long lasting of all the options out there IMHO. I have an older propane model of the 1004 in my family room addition and it works really well (3 100 LB tanks of propane for a well insulated 20X20 room each winter) as long as the power stays on to the house.:)

Certaindeaf
October 13, 2012, 10:47 AM
As has been touched upon, how you dress makes a huge difference. A man's gotta be comfortable to enjoy himself. And transfering that trickled powder charge from the scale to the case (I don't do that) while you are violently shivering is not real smart.
Dress for a normal day, perhaps even a house day plus a good sweater and pay good attention to your feet. Then, with boots and all on, slip into an insulated coverall with elastic type wrist cuffs (helps to not catch on things and keeps in heat). Hat optional.

If needed, a $15 ceramic cube type heater positioned strategically under your loading stool should help allay shivered timbers.

wgaynor
October 13, 2012, 02:26 PM
I have a fairly large detached man cave. First winter, I used a Kerosene Heater. Second Winter, I insulated the ceiling and the Garage door that was installed. This summer I included insulation for the walls, finished the walls, finished the ceiling, and a total remodel.

Went from frigid, to chilly, to sweaty :)

hentown
October 13, 2012, 06:45 PM
Chances are, 30k btu ventless propane heater will do fine for his garage.

carbine85
October 13, 2012, 07:25 PM
I have 35 years of Heating and air conditioning back round. I don't like unvented fuel burning appliances for heating applications. Even if they are rated as non-vented they can / will deplete oxygen levels and raise the CO2 level. They can also leave too much moisture in the area and increase the changes of condensation or mold. For small areas with limited use I would just use a small electric heater.
If you do go with a fuel burning unit make sure it's vented and bring in the correct volume of combustion air.

jcwit
October 13, 2012, 07:46 PM
The extra moisture in the air in the winter sure makes the cats happier when you pet them. Seems they really dislike those sparks.

harvester
October 13, 2012, 08:03 PM
I use a 220 volt electric heater that hangs from the ceiling. It heats my shop and has a decent thermostat. I keep the shop at 45 degrees and turn it up when I am out there. My shop is about 12x24x9 ft ceiling with only modest insulation. No fuel to haul, fumes, or problems with complicated installation. It uses 21 amps at 220 volts and costs on average about 40 bucks per month to operate in cold months.

hso
October 13, 2012, 08:05 PM
HVAC in the shop is just a little to far afield for THR.

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