October 16, 2012, 12:28 PM

I think I got it right. Do you see anything suspicious?

Is it necessary to send the brass in water like I do to cool down or I can just send into a container? Each time it hit water, I hear a little psssshhhhh.

I timed it in the semi-dark to move just 1/4 second before the brass neck glows red.

Thank you
P.S.: Sorry for the quality, took it with my Ipad and still learning how to do good videos. Any hint would be appreciated...:)

If you enjoyed reading about "Annealing" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
October 16, 2012, 12:55 PM
The Idea is to get the neck hot enough to soften it but NOT to ruin the temper of the lower part of the casing. So the heat is stopped from migrating down the casing by quenching it in the water as soon as the mouth/neck is hot enough. Not quenching would make the rest of the brass too soft to be safe as I understand it. Those machines are really nice and one day I may get one but for now I dip mine in hot lead by hand and then quench.:)

October 16, 2012, 01:23 PM
If you look at the video, you see the station after the fire is applied is not the one the brass falls into the hole but the next one. So the heat stays about 7-8 seconds more on the case. When not drop in the water, I can't pick up the case by the bottom by hand because it is too hot.

October 16, 2012, 01:31 PM
I thought when that kind of annealing machine was set up both flames impinged the neck, to get equal heating all the way around, and then the case dropped out on the next notch. ?

October 16, 2012, 01:33 PM
Have no advice to give, just wanted to say that's an awesome piece of gear! Good luck with that. :)

October 16, 2012, 01:38 PM

Check the video I made, you will see they do not drop at the next notch but the notch following the next notch. Did I set it up wrong????

October 16, 2012, 01:40 PM
Not according to the manufacturer site:

Also,I noticed on his site there is a flame at the end of the annealing over the neck. It does not happen for me at least I heat it up 2 more seconds and the brass glows.

October 16, 2012, 01:41 PM
That's what I'm asking. I've seen a few of those machines in operation and never seen one with the flames on two different cases at the same time.
Too much delay and heat travel into the case till it drops.

October 16, 2012, 01:46 PM
The bottom of the case is hot enough that I cannot pick it up with my fingers. In fact, I can only pick it up about 20-30 seconds after it dropped.

I did a test with a vise and the bottom feels as hard to close the vise than with a non-annealed case. So it sounds good, but I am not sure the measurement is valuable. However, with the neck, I can feel the difference with the vise between an annealed and non-annealed case.

October 16, 2012, 01:54 PM
Look at the video again and read the description of what is taking place.

October 16, 2012, 02:00 PM
I did. I did. I still have the same question. What am I missing?

October 16, 2012, 02:04 PM
Try this--------

"The 360 uses two torch arms to surround the neck in flame, and works great below .416 or .50 caliber. For those larger cases, we recommend adding the optional third torch arm for additional heat."

The flames are directed at ONE case, not each flame on a DIFFERENT one.

Look at the position of the cases on the machine you have set up and compare to the machine in the factory video.

October 16, 2012, 02:08 PM
It is what i do. I direct the flames to the same case. Check my video again, it is what I do. I apologize if it looks like the flames do not look directed to the same case.

October 16, 2012, 02:17 PM
Then you got it right, if you got the delays set to what it's supposed to be it's annealing like it should.
There's always going to be heat transfer through the case towards the base and they get hot, you just want to keep it below annealing temp.
The ones I've watched weren't dropping into water, they just air cooled.

October 16, 2012, 02:21 PM
Dropping in eater is a pain in the butt, but I noticed the case I did drop in water look more like the professional ones you buy like LC than air cooled. Should I simply air cool them and avoid the mess?

October 16, 2012, 02:22 PM
I would, but that's just me.

October 16, 2012, 02:25 PM
Thank you!

October 16, 2012, 02:33 PM
I'd like to have one of those machines, but they're too steep for my blood.
This one works for me.

October 16, 2012, 02:36 PM
Watch this video...

October 17, 2012, 12:27 AM
I still have the same question. What am I missing?

You do not want to apply the heat so slowly that it can migrate to the case head.

You do not want any glow, infact you don't even want the flame to change from blue to orange before advancing the case.

If you follow the above, water is not needed.

This is too much, note the flame change just before the index. (

This is what you want. No color change in the flame, even annealing around the case neck and can be held right after annealing. (

October 17, 2012, 12:38 AM
Its a combination of temp and time. Move your torches in and/or turn them up, then you can reduce your dwell time and you'll have it.

October 17, 2012, 08:15 AM
Those are good pictures, it's hard to get one showing a flame just a little off and harder to describe it.

October 17, 2012, 08:32 AM
Back in the good old days we took pan with enough water to go about half way up on the cases. Then spaced the cases far enough apart that we could heat them with a propane torch. When the necks turn red you knock the case over into the water. Works well and cost a lot less than an "annealing machine."

October 17, 2012, 08:56 AM
Those are good pictures, it's hard to get one showing a flame just a little off and harder to describe it.

Sorry, thoes are photo links to videos above. Click on them to play the videos and what I wrote will become clear.

If you enjoyed reading about "Annealing" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!