Remove barrel on Ruger Security Six


October 28, 2012, 01:47 AM
I want to remove the barrel on my Security Six,
anyone know where to get the tools to do it.
I call it a frame clamp, am sure that is wrong.


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October 28, 2012, 12:32 PM will have all the tools you need.

4v50 Gary
October 28, 2012, 01:32 PM
Barrel vise is used to clamp the barrel.
Action wrench is placed on the frame and is used to separate the frame from the barrel.

October 28, 2012, 05:04 PM
Save yourself a lot of grief and let a good pistol smith do it.

October 28, 2012, 07:54 PM
Zeke/PA Save yourself a lot of grief and let a good pistol smith do it.
that was my first thoughts,

Nearest gun smith seems to be over a hundred miles away,
and when asking they wern't sure they had the tools:what:
so decided to try it myself
if I find the right tools:banghead:

October 28, 2012, 08:15 PM
If you're going to attempt this, be smart and buy the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual on the Ruger's.

This was written as a training manual for new gunsmiths and covers ALL gunsmithing on the Ruger DA's, including all barrel work.

If you intend to install a different barrel, you'll need:
A barrel vise. This can be wood and epoxy oak blocks in a BIG shop vise.

An action wrench with plastic inserts made for that SPECIFIC type of Ruger.

A lathe or bench tool used to cut the barrel shoulder to allow getting the barrel aligned and torqued properly. Barrels DO NOT just screw on with the front sight at 12:00 O'clock, the barrel shoulder has to be cut.

A special cutting tool that works down the bore to cut the rear of the barrel to set barrel-cylinder gap.

A special set of cutter heads for the tool to re-cut the forcing cone in the rear of the barrel. This set includes a cutter for the degree of cone you want, a brass lapping head to smooth the cone after cutting, and a special drop-in gage used to measure the cone. You MUST have the gage to get the cone right.

Here's the tooling and manual:

Action wrench and inserts:

Bench barrel shoulder cutting tool. This or a lathe:

Forcing cone cutting and lapping tools. You can also buy just the individual parts for the .38/.357:

Forcing cone drop-in gage.

Fair warning:
People see the prices and figure, "What the heck, I can make up something that'll work for just the one time, and I don't need to do anything to the forcing cone".
Among the things they try is the old gag of sticking the barrel in a vise and a wood handle through the frame window to twist the frame off.
Sorry, revolvers, especially Ruger's are torqued on tight. Try the handle in the frame trick and you'll either bend or crack the frame, usually through the thin area under the barrel threads.

If you want to get into pistolsmithing and doing revolver barrel work the above list is the minimum tooling you need.
If you want a one-time job, have a gunsmith who has the tools do it.
Try it with expedient tools and you usually ruin the gun.

October 28, 2012, 08:48 PM
^^^^^^ What dfariswheel says about this is gospel.

February 12, 2013, 09:32 AM
hello just wondering mcappys tried this or not or anyone else has. Sent mcappys a message but doesn't look like he is a regular.

so anyone has done this just wondering how easy/hard it was.

February 12, 2013, 09:10 PM
It is exactly as dfariswheel notes in his post. Requires the proper tools and knowledge to use them in order to get the job done without turning the gun into a paperweight. I have all of the tools and have successfully done several. I would not dare try it without the correct tools.

Jim K
February 12, 2013, 10:00 PM
I know I always come up with this question, but why? If you want a different barrel length, it will be cheaper to trade for what you want than to buy the tools to change the barrel, plus you won't be taking a chance on making the frame look like a pretzel.


February 12, 2013, 10:45 PM
why? Is a good question. I would like to have the frame/receiver color case hardened, and I was told if I could do the disassembly it would save me on having the work done. I am fairly handy with tools and I have a winning record as far as my projects go. But even with a winning record you can loose a few. I have had gunsmiths fudge my stuff up too, so I would rather ruin my stuff myself and learn something, rather than someone else and just be upset. I am not set on doing it yet just reading up and seeing if I want to. I have other projects going so I have to weigh my option, figure out which one takes priority.

February 13, 2013, 11:04 AM
Color case hardening is pretty, but the color is nor durable at all. Just my opinion, if it is a gun to be protected from sunlight and displayed in a case, I would go for it, but not for a user. Of course, you may have a serious tool jones and the need to do your own smithing. In that case.....

February 13, 2013, 02:47 PM
BBBBill I like doing stuff. I have not considered the durability of color case hardening though. It is a user but with in reason. Not a trail gun or anything. But durability of the finish is something to keep in consideration. I actually never knew it was a "weaker" finish. thanks for the heads up on that.

February 13, 2013, 03:25 PM
+1 on "less durable". Way less in fact.

There is also a very good chance of the refinisher warping the frame doing color case hardening if they are not highly experienced.

To do it, the frame is jigged to prevent warpage as much as possible, then heated red hot at 1,450 degrees, while packed in bone charcoal and left to simmer in it's own juices for a couple of hours.

DO NOT attempt to CCH “modern” chrome moly receivers or other firearm components
manufactured with chrome moly or any tool steel.

And that includes your Ruger!!


February 13, 2013, 03:46 PM
RC I also haven't taken into consideration that. I am confident if I would have moved any more forward with this that the guys in the shop would have known not to melt my receiver lol I only had a conversation in passing with one of the guys. They are a very competent well respected shop. But I guess that puts an end to this project, case closed.

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