[biogenic]

Want to reload for my g23 and can"t get over all these posts I read about kabooms with Glocks. Any advice before I start reloading ? Would a LW barrel lower the risk? Would like to use 4.5 gr 231 with some 180 gr Berrys but would like to load 155gr cast swc from MB in the near future which I currently use for my Colt 10mm...

Thanks

[JLDickmon]

some of the early Glocks use an unsupported chamber, and that leads to bulged cases.

That's the biggest thing you have to worry about.. You won't be able to reload brass that's been through one of those particular pistols.

[Blue68f100]

That and I think most of the KB were with Tightgroup and bullet setback due to low neck tension. You should not have a problem with 231 it's not near as sensitive to case volume..

[pdosh]

The kb are more related to shooting lead bullets I believe in a stock barrel. I reload 40 range pickups. I run my brass through a Lee Bulge Buster to fix the Glock bulge. Most who shoot lead will buy a barrel with regular rifling. But I know of guys who have a stock barrel and shoot lead anyway, not recommended.

Most mfg will not recommend shooting reloads. That is just the lawyers.

Be cautious about reloading any ammo but don't think the 40 is to be left alone.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

[Walkalong]

Don't use brass that has been obviously bulged to badly, don't hot rod it, don't load squibs, and you will not have problems.

The fourty isn't as bad and scary as some people make out. And Glocks don't blow up for no good reason.

[biogenic]

Thanks for your input. I exercise a lot of caution when reloading. I'll load some tonight and post some pictures in the morning.

some of the early Glocks use an unsupported chamber, and that leads to bulged cases.

Do you happen to know till what year ?

[upstech76]

I started reloading 2 years ago and have loaded over 4,000 rounds during that time for my Glock 23 which I use in IDPA and general plinking. I shoot some lead but mostly Berrys 165s. Never had an issue with case bulge or kabooms. I mostly use WSF but also load some Unique with good results.

[918v]

some of the early Glocks use an unsupported chamber, and that leads to bulged cases.

That's the biggest thing you have to worry about.. You won't be able to reload brass that's been through one of those particular pistols.


All Glock 40's have generous chambers with less than full support. Newer Glocks have more support but they are still huge and allow the brass to expand a lot.

1911s have unsupported chambers as well.

All it means is you should use your brain more carefully when reloading this cartridge. For example, do not load a max load of Clays under a 200gr bullet. Load ammo whose pressure curve will be mild and gradual. Treat it like a 45.

The load you are planning on is mild. You won't have any problems.

[Ex]

I reload for both .40 and 10mm in Glocks. I don't push the envelope (still PLENTY of horsepower :cool:), and I generally get 5 loads on a piece of brass. Could maybe get more but I've used the 5 load limit for a couple years and have had no blowouts, weird brass or such.

If I were loading for hotrod rounds, I'd re-evaluate.

[SDGlock23]

All .40 and 10mm Glocks will put some bulge on the brass to some extent, even with mild loads. After I resize my brass I use the Lee bulge buster kit to remove any bulge that may be left. Some brass needs it, some doesn't.

Inspect your cases and don't use old worn out looking brass, it's not worth the risk of having it fail. Just use common sense and stick to book loads in the stock barrel. I know guys that only shoot lead in Glock barrels, and I have before. I don't care to myself, not because I think it's dangerous, but it's harder to clean the leading out of a Glock barrel than out of a conventionally rifled barrel.

[readyeddy]

I would use an aftermarket barrel like KKM for shooting reloads where brass will be recycled many times.

[Hamish]

I put a KKM barrel in my G23, and have shot thousands of reloaded .40 S&W through it without a problem. After resizing I run all of my cases through a case gauge to check for bulge, and find that I rarely have to reject a case (1/800). I primarily use TiteGroup, and have worked with a few different loads and bullets:

Bullet / WT. / Powder / WT / Primer / OAL / FPS

Rainier HPFB 180gr TiteGroup 3.8gr WIN Sm Pistol 1.125 856.0
Rainier HPFB 180gr TiteGroup 4.2gr WIN Sm Pistol 1.125 891.7
Rainier HPFB 180gr TiteGroup 4.5gr WIN Sm Pistol 1.125 933.6
Precision Delta JFN 180gr TiteGroup 4.2gr WIN Sm Pistol 1.125 854.0
Precision Delta JFN 180gr TiteGroup 4.7gr WIN Sm Pistol 1.125 950.9

I mostly shoot the Precision Delta JFN 180 grain bullets with 4.2 gr. of TiteGroup now. I find it to be a reliable load that cycles my G23 and my Sig 226 Elite reliably, and is quite accurate in both pistols.

I highly recommend the KKM barrel for the G23. They are a bit expensive, but it is an accurate barrel with a tight chamber. It dropped right in and the fit is excellent. I don't shoot a particularly hot load, and I only shoot jacketed or plated bullets, but my G23 performs great. I wouldn't worry about TiteGroup or any other powder in particular as long as you're safe and precise in your loading - keep a sharp eye on the powder weight and the overall length of the round and you should be okay.

[biogenic]

I can get a good deal on flat points or swc cast in .401... Is one better than the other? My wheels guns really like the swc.

[gamestalker]

The only concern you should have is shooting non jacketed (lead) through the factory barrel. A LF barrel will be your best bet if you intend to shoot lead through it.

As for a powders that produce gradual pressures curves, the mid to slow burning powders are less likely to get you into trouble in more than one way. HS6 and Longshot have served me well for years. But this is also a very subjective and relevent to what you are loading for.

GS

[bds]

The kb are more related to shooting lead bullets I believe in a stock barrel. I reload 40 range pickups. I run my brass through a Lee Bulge Buster to fix the Glock bulge. Most who shoot lead will buy a barrel with regular rifling. But I know of guys who have a stock barrel and shoot lead anyway, not recommended.
Don't use brass that has been obviously bulged to badly, don't hot rod it, don't load squibs, and you will not have problems.

The fourty isn't as bad and scary as some people make out. And Glocks don't blow up for no good reason.
Most of several KaBooms I have witnessed and have heard about have been with jacketed bullets loaded to high-to-near max load data. Please note, KBs occurred long before Glocks and many other gun brands also experience KBs.

KaBooms occur from case wall failure/rupture. Several factors contribute to case wall failure/rupture including over charge/double charge, weakened/thinned case wall, barrel obstruction/stuck bullet, bullet setback from insufficient neck tension that increases chamber pressure, etc.

Most 40S&W factory barrels now seem to offer similar amount of case support or the lack of case base support at the chamber mouths, so the "unsupported" chamber argument is less relevant for Gen3/Gen4 Glocks. As to rounded rifling with smooth start of rifling in Glock barrels, I see this as an issue with lead loads which seem to allow more gas leakage around the bullet and result in faster/more fouling build up. With lead loads and factory Glock barrels, I recommend barrel inspection about 200-300 rounds and clean as necessary - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8560817#post8560817

If you use mixed range brass with unknown reload history, I would suggest mid-to-high range load data loads. Since slower burn rate powders (slower than Unique/Universal) tend to lose accuracy below high-to-near max load data, I prefer to use slightly faster burn rate W231/HP-38 at mid-range load data which still maintains accuracy. Mid-to-high range W231/HP-38 loads only minimally bulge the cases that are fully resized with Lee pistol dies.

Between 180 vs 155 bullet weights, I would suggest starting with the heavier 180 gr bullet. I need to push the lighter 155 gr bullet harder to reliably cycle the slides of my pistols but the heavier 180 gr bullet will reliably cycle the slides even with the lower start charge while providing accuracy.


Want to reload for my g23 and can"t get over all these posts I read about kabooms with Glocks. Any advice before I start reloading ? Would a LW barrel lower the risk?
Yes. While 9mm Lone Wolf barrels provide comparable case base support as factory Glock and KKM barrels, 40S&W Lone Wolf barrels provide better than factory case base support with tighter chamber/mouth. These result in cases that are not bulged and makes resizing much easier which translates to less work hardening of the brass and extended case life. With lead loads, conventional square cut land/groove rifling of Lone Wolf barrels will provide greater accuracy over factory barrels with less fouling/leading issues.

[rbernie]

All Glock 40's have generous chambers with less than full support. Newer Glocks have more support but they are still huge and allow the brass to expand a lot. My Gen4 Glock 22 has no less case support than does my CZ or Sig in 40S&W. It shoots my reloads and factory ammo with zero issues or bulges.