Lee Case Resizer Decapping pin


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primalmu
December 11, 2012, 09:00 PM
I bought a set of Lee Pacesetter .223 dies today and just sat down to resize some cases. I noticed that the decapping pin was loose and falls out very easily. My .308 die is not like this. Is this normal or should I return the die set?

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J.R.W.
December 11, 2012, 09:34 PM
You should read the directions and tighten the collet. It is designed to slip up if it faces too much resistance. You'll need an 1/2" and 3/4" wrench.

primalmu
December 11, 2012, 09:42 PM
No, the small diameter pin literally falls out of the larger part. The collet is perfectly tight and the entire assembly stays in place if I insert the smaller pin back into its hole and deprime cases.

I've sent an email to Lee and will hopefully have them replace it.

Certaindeaf
December 11, 2012, 09:52 PM
Huh. I thouoght they were one piece.

rfwobbly
December 11, 2012, 10:00 PM
The pin is supposed to be a "press-fit" into the stem. Use some Loctite or household epoxy to put it in permanently. It'll be OK in the morning.

jcwit
December 11, 2012, 10:02 PM
Stick the small pin back into the rod and hit the side of the rod with a hammer while the rod is on an anvil, steel vice or something of that sort. Don't tap it, HIT it.

FROGO207
December 11, 2012, 10:34 PM
The pin is not supposed to fall out. I have pulled a couple out on purpose. Vise Grips and rod in vise sort of tight. Either solution above will work but if hitting with a hammer be careful not to hit the expander ring and deform it.

45lcshooter
December 11, 2012, 11:04 PM
You may need a "headed" decapping pin. I had a die that the pin just fell out aswell. I rooted through all my drawers and all i found was regular decaping pins. Then i saw a little box i kept shuffling around, and they were headed decapping pins. Looks just like a normal decap pin with a head like a nail. I beleive my packaging was from Lyman.

1SOW
December 12, 2012, 02:11 AM
LEE should/likely will replace it. For pistol, I've never broken or had a problem with a LEE pin woith the sizer/deprime carbide die. 50K rds +/-

howlnmad
December 12, 2012, 02:59 AM
You shouldn't have to "fix" anything. The pin is not supposed to come out. Lee has a two year warranty, I'd make them honor it.

kingmt
December 12, 2012, 06:28 AM
I really don't think you will have to make them but I would have them replace it.

upstech76
December 12, 2012, 07:29 AM
Lee will replace it without any issues. Go to their website and complete their warranty form. They usually request you to email a picture so its best just to go ahead and take one and upload it with the form. In the meantime, after taking the picture, I would JB Weld the pin in place so you can keep working while you wait on a new de-capper. I broke one a couple months ago and it took about a week to get the new one in.

primalmu
December 12, 2012, 04:13 PM
I emailed Lee last night and today they shipped out a replacement. Much praise for Lee's customer service so far!

Ken70
December 12, 2012, 05:40 PM
Stick the small pin back into the rod and hit the side of the rod with a hammer while the rod is on an anvil, steel vice or something of that sort. Don't tap it, HIT it.
This is reality...I bought 100 .062" diameter needle bearings from Enco for $2.00. When a pin breaks, sometimes I'm able to pull it and use one of my replacements. Lots faster than sending it back to Wisconsin and back.

GLOOB
December 12, 2012, 05:55 PM
Stick the small pin back into the rod and hit the side of the rod with a hammer while the rod is on an anvil, steel vice or something of that sort. Don't tap it, HIT it.
I've never had that problem. But personally, I'd a thunk you'd want to smack the side of the decapping pin with a punch to squish it and make it slightly larger in maximum diameter. Then tap it into the rod with a hammer. That's how I've always made rod-shaped things stick in a same-diameter hole. Maybe the pins are too hard for that.

If you smack the rod with the pin in it, you can increase the volume of the hole. That trick might only work so many times before the fit starts to go off. Hopefully you only have to do it once.

jcwit
December 12, 2012, 06:42 PM
If you smack the rod with the pin in it, you can increase the volume of the hole. That trick might only work so many times before the fit starts to go off. Hopefully you only have to do it once.

Actually it makes the hole oval shaped gripping the pin on opposite sides. I've done it many times when making decapping pins.

Ken70
December 12, 2012, 06:48 PM
I've never had that problem. But personally, I'd a thunk you'd want to smack the side of the decapping pin with a punch to squish it and make it slightly larger in maximum diameter. Then tap it into the rod with a hammer. That's how I've always made rod-shaped things stick in a same-diameter hole. Maybe the pins are too hard for that.

If you smack the rod with the pin in it, you can increase the volume of the hole. That trick might only work so many times before the fit starts to go off. Hopefully you only have to do it once.
Gloob, you're one of the people that diss the Loadmaster on Midway, aren't you? If you had a clue, you'd realize smacking the side of a bored hole will reduce the volume, not increase it.

ranger335v
December 12, 2012, 07:37 PM
We can't beat using some 'instant' glue for jobs like that. If the pin ever breaks you can heat the rod body and easily pull the remainder out, slip a new one in and go.

Foley tech
December 12, 2012, 09:44 PM
Lee's warranty is actually really good. I haven't had a problem yet that calling didn't either fix or have replacements in route.

kingmt
December 13, 2012, 06:44 AM
He is right. with the pin "in place" it would increase the size of the hole.

hentown
December 13, 2012, 08:07 AM
I've had several Lee decapping pins either break or pull out. Lee's always replaced them free, and I don't fill out any warranty forms; just mail them back to Lee with a note, asking them to replace the pins.

GLOOB
December 13, 2012, 04:00 PM
Gloob, you're one of the people that diss the Loadmaster on Midway, aren't you? If you had a clue, you'd realize smacking the side of a bored hole will reduce the volume, not increase it.
No, I've never done that. I have several clues, but I'm coming to a different conclusion as you.

Kingmt has posted what I'm thinking. If you smack it with the pin in there, you will make it oval... but the min dimension of the oval will still be near the same diameter as before, forming around the pin. Thus, when you ovalize/egg-shape the hole, the internal volume of the hole is increasing. Kinda like trying to take an unsized case and getting neck tension by crimping with the bullet seated; it doesn't work that way. You can't make the internal volume of the hole less than that of the mandrel that's in there, unless the mandrel is more elastic. And if you're applying pressure on just two faces around an inelastic mandrel, the hole will simply enlarge in the other dimensions when the metal flows. Or in this case where the pin and rod might be of similar material, you might ovalize both the hole and the pin, together, to where the deformed pin can't come back out of the hole due to the gross shape of pin and hole and/or locked-in surface imperfections, but you might not be making a true pressure/friction fit.

If you were to smack the rod without the pin in it, then tap the pin in, or do it my described way, you would not be buggering the hole as much. Methinks, anyway. Your thinking may be different, depending on which clues you're choosing to focus on.

In practice, putting the pin in and smacking it might work the best. But I would have tried it another way, first.

jcwit
December 13, 2012, 08:04 PM
Hitting the rod with the pin already in the hole is in fact "staking" the pin in the hole.

ranger335v
December 13, 2012, 09:18 PM
Hammering the end of the expanding stem to grab the pin will sure work. It will also distort the shape and that will distort expanded necks. Use the instant glue to install the pins or mail it all to Lee for replacement.

jcwit
December 13, 2012, 09:53 PM
If its a handgun caliber it does not have an expander plug, if its a rifle bottleneck of course you should not hammer the expander plug. Being as we are discussing a Lee Pacesetter die set here the expander plug is located higher up on the rod that the decapping pin is at and staking the pin in place will have no effect on the expander itself. At least this is true of the Lee die set I have in my hands at the moment.

res7s
December 14, 2012, 12:28 AM
You may need a "headed" decapping pin. I had a die that the pin just fell out aswell. I rooted through all my drawers and all i found was regular decaping pins. Then i saw a little box i kept shuffling around, and they were headed decapping pins. Looks just like a normal decap pin with a head like a nail. I beleive my packaging was from Lyman.

In a pinch(one actually has lasted over five years now) you can use a finishing or panel nail until you get replacements. Just make sure the head fits the flat. I have one die that has a recess the head sits in and it takes a different nail than the other one.

The Lee decapper pin presses in. All of my Lee decapping/sizing pins came with a lifetime warranty. They are several years old though so things may have changed.

ranger335v
December 14, 2012, 12:09 PM
Ah, JC, you're very astute but no matter what you're addressing I was posting to the OP.

He said: "I bought a set of Lee Pacesetter .223 dies today and just sat down to resize some cases. I noticed that the decapping pin was loose and falls out very easily. My .308 die is not like this. Is this normal or should I return the die set?"

The instant glue will work better than a hammer. IMHO.

;)

jcwit
December 14, 2012, 05:29 PM
The problem is the statement

It will also distort the shape and that will distort expanded necks.

From your post #24, No it will not distort the expanded necks by staking the pin in place as the expanding plug is further up the shank of the rod that also holds the pin. Glue it in if you wish, may be better, I do not know for certain. I believe in a mechanical fix for this problem, JMHO.

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