Need help fitting boyd mosin stock


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JBrady555
December 18, 2012, 11:48 PM
Hello I finally got my boyds thumbhole stock today for my mosin nagant. This is my first stock fit ever and I'm already underway. I had to dremmel the stock where the rear end of the receiver lays in, it was too tight. I also had to remove wood around the front of the trigger/magazine assembly. I finally got the fit good enough that the screws would reach the threads. It looks to me like I still need to allow the receiver and trigger assembly to ride deeper into the stock. Please let me know what you think. Also the boyds stock clearly says on their website that I will have to inlet the stock to allow for the bolt to close all the way. Well the receiver bolt opening is already only about a 32nd above the stock and the bolt closes without inletting required. Is this a red flag saying that I'm not deep enough, or does it just mean that I lucked out and don't have to do any inletting? Please give me input on what I may be doing wrong or any tips for finishing the fit on this thing. I don't mind having my first project come out looking like a beginner did it, but I don't want to do anything that would be unsafe. Enclosed are pictures for you to evaluate whether or not I'm in the ball park of a decent fit or if I am royally screwing up. I'm hoping to get some good info it this thread, work on the fit and post updated pictures for review until the project is complete. Thanks for helping if you can.

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JBrady555
December 18, 2012, 11:49 PM
Doesn't it look like the end of the receiver still needs to go into the stock more? what about the trigger?

Here is one more pic.

JBrady555
December 18, 2012, 11:58 PM
heres two more shots that are farther away.

JBrady555
December 19, 2012, 12:29 AM
Well since last posting a few minutes ago I've hand sanded a little bit more and have the rear end of the receiver set in the stock a little better. When I assemble everything and tighten I can still see a gap in between the magazine and receiver about an eighth inch wide. The receiver rear end on top of the stock and the trigger assembly on the bottom of the stock look to be now about a sixteenth of an inch above flush with the stock a piece. If I can remedy this that should make the eighth inch gap in the mag and receiver disappear. Problem is that I am having a hard time telling where to sand off more stock.

JBrady555
December 19, 2012, 02:07 AM
Well after some more dremmeling and sanding I've got the barrel/receiver and trigger/mag assembly flush in the stock with no gap where the receiver meets the magazine. I managed to do this with only a few small "I'm new and don't know what to do" dings and scratches, lol. Only thing going on now is the front screw will go in but its overly tight going in right from the get go like my screw angle is off a little bit. It does tighten on down without me feeling like I'm going to break something. I'm not sure if I need to address this or not. After looking at it, it looks like the threaded hole under the barrel is a little too far forward causing the screw angle to be off. I would have to fit the barrel and receiver father back in the stock to remedy this. Not sure if I should go through that trouble for something that works the way it is, just a little tight.

I could also relieve the stress my making the hole in the stock a little bigger. Would that hurt the performance of my gun having more play between the screw and the hole? Everything would still be tightened down where it wouldn't move anyways right?

JBrady555
December 19, 2012, 03:14 PM
Well I guess I'm finished with everything except removing a little wood on the front of the stock so that the barrel is completely free floated. Right now I can slide a piece of paper in between the barrel and stock but its very tight and it lifts of the barrel a little bit. Here are some crappy phone pictures of the near finished product. And no I'm not going to shoot the gun with a barrel mounted bi pod. That was just for the pics.

How tight should I be tightening the action screws? I don't want to strip them or crack the stock, but at the same time I don't want them too loose.

Gunnerboy
December 19, 2012, 08:34 PM
you need to sand down the barrel channel until you can fold a piece of paper over once and slide it with out any hangups or burrs

JBrady555
December 19, 2012, 09:31 PM
you need to sand down the barrel channel until you can fold a piece of paper over once and slide it with out any hangups or burrs
yea right now I can get a piece of paper in it, but its really tight. I'll sand on it a little more tomorrow until I'm completely free floated.

lathedog
December 20, 2012, 12:13 AM
The need to inlet for the bolt handle might be a generic comment for all their stocks; they are probably considering a rifle with a turned-down bolt handle. Since you have a straight handle which does not come below the receiver line, you should be OK. If the bolt closes completely then it closes completely.

You want the barrel to ride at half depth in the barrel channel as a general rule. The action should sit into the stock with the top surfaces flush with the wood. You may have more work to do. You want to get 3 or 4 full turns of the action screws as a minimum, and also make sure they do not bottom out in the receiver before they get snug.

Check the Brownell's catalog for Fisher scrapers. I'm sure others will post that a dremel is the way to go; they are useful but can do more harm than good. The best results do not come easy.

The action screws should go in without binding. I would not try to use them as auxilliary recoil lugs.

The subject of bedding and free float is highly controversial. Bottom line is to remove preload from your barrel, and eliminate any contact points that appear when the barrel expands as it gets hot.

Professional stockmakers take more than a few hours to do what you are doing. As a first timer, do not be frustrated if this job takes 20 or 40 hours of actual labor or more. If you knock it out in a few hours you are probably missing the finer points and your work will look mediocre to a professional stockmaker. Sorry if that comes as sad news but good results do not come fast or easy.

JBrady555
December 20, 2012, 12:42 AM
The need to inlet for the bolt handle might be a generic comment for all their stocks; they are probably considering a rifle with a turned-down bolt handle. Since you have a straight handle which does not come below the receiver line, you should be OK. If the bolt closes completely then it closes completely.

You want the barrel to ride at half depth in the barrel channel as a general rule. The action should sit into the stock with the top surfaces flush with the wood. You may have more work to do. You want to get 3 or 4 full turns of the action screws as a minimum, and also make sure they do not bottom out in the receiver before they get snug.

Check the Brownell's catalog for Fisher scrapers. I'm sure others will post that a dremel is the way to go; they are useful but can do more harm than good. The best results do not come easy.

The action screws should go in without binding. I would not try to use them as auxilliary recoil lugs.

The subject of bedding and free float is highly controversial. Bottom line is to remove preload from your barrel, and eliminate any contact points that appear when the barrel expands as it gets hot.

Professional stockmakers take more than a few hours to do what you are doing. As a first timer, do not be frustrated if this job takes 20 or 40 hours of actual labor or more. If you knock it out in a few hours you are probably missing the finer points and your work will look mediocre to a professional stockmaker. Sorry if that comes as sad news but good results do not come fast or easy.
Thanks for the info. I called boyds and the inletting is for turn down bolts just as you stated. I have a little bit more sanding to do on the front few inches of stock to get a full free float. Everything else sits in nice and flush. I got plenty of turns on the action screws and they aren't bottomed out so I'm good there. Also with a little more fitting I got the front screw out of the bind it was in, its still a tad tight from the moment it starts threading but alot better. I did finish all of this in around 8 hours time so your right about me missing the finer points of stock fitting, lol. Its my first project, I'll do better next time. Its only got a few "idiot" marks on it but I'm ok with that, after all its just a mosin nagant.

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