Best/Affordable user-serviceable 5.56 or 7.62 can?


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MenaceMan47
January 2, 2013, 01:57 PM
My next NFA project will be to add a suppressor to my collection, and I would like something user-serviceable. My first intention was to get a 5.56 can, but a 7.62 can would be nice, too. I don't need anything in titanium, so carbon/stainless steel would be preferred. Any ideas?

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Charles S
January 2, 2013, 06:12 PM
For 5.56 I have been very happy with my Smith Enterprise Wind Talker.

http://www.smithenterprise.com/products11.html

My cost was $750.

Charles

hentown
January 4, 2013, 09:11 AM
Check out the Huntertown Kestrel 5.56. It's under $500. My first suppressor will be their Guardian 9, which works for 9mm and subsonic .300 Blackout. It's only $325 at Adco.

Swampman
January 4, 2013, 09:41 PM
Is there a particular reason that you need a user serviceable HP rifle can?
Unless you intend to shoot a lot of .22 rimfire or cast bullets through the can, you'll never need to clean it. A little carbon in the can won't hurt anything and may actually help with suppression.

Making a high power rifle can user serviceable decreases its strength and increases the chances for a baffle strike or catastrophic failure, welds are far stronger than threads.

Charles S
January 7, 2013, 08:07 PM
Making a high power rifle can user serviceable decreases its strength and increases the chances for a baffle strike or catastrophic failure, welds are far stronger than threads.

increases the chances for a baffle strike How exactly does that happen?

welds are far stronger than threads

Are you absolutely certain about that? Is that an absolute statement? uninterrupted machined threads of what length?

My can is not welded and is only threaded at the end cap. My can is user serviceable, rated for full auto fire, and is rated for subsonic ammo.

My question to you is: What do you do if you don't have a user serviceable can, what do you you do if you get a baffle or end cap strike? Do you end up with a pile of trash with a $200 tax stamp?

With my can I send the baffle of end cap end and get another. What do you do?

Swampman
January 12, 2013, 08:26 AM
Originally posted by Charles S
"How exactly does that happen?"

When the threads come loose, things can get out of alignment, this can lead to baffle strikes, if you need graphics to understand, you can simply loosen up the threads on your can a bit and do some field research. I'm sure that will illustrate the problem so that it's easily understood.


Originally posted by Charles S
"My can is user serviceable, rated for full auto fire, and is rated for subsonic ammo."

Can you please provide me with a list of cans that AREN'T rated for subsonic ammo?
Any manufacturer (or owner) that makes a claim like that is really grasping at straws.

Originally posted by Charles S
"Are you absolutely certain about that? Is that an absolute statement? uninterrupted machined threads of what length?"

Uhhmm... I thought it was understood by everyone here that we're talking about suppressors. Small, fairly thin tubes of metal where strength is good and weight is bad. Sort of like the tube frame of a race car, ever see one of those threaded or bolted together? How about the suppressors used by the US military, how many of those are simply screwed together?


Originally posted by Charles S
"My question to you is: What do you do if you don't have a user serviceable can, what do you you do if you get a baffle or end cap strike? Do you end up with a pile of trash with a $200 tax stamp?"

In the event that I ever have a problem, I suppose that I'll ship it back to the manufacturer, if the tube (with the serial number) is OK, they would then fix it and ship it back to me. This is pretty much what I'd do with any quality consumer item. Do you do your own repairs if a night vision device or laser module goes out?

Originally posted by Charles S
"With my can I send the baffle of end cap end and get another."

I'm sure that you do...


Originally posted by Charles S
"What do you do?"

I just keep shooting since I haven't had any of the problems that you've apparently had.
To each his own...

Seriously, while it's great that you're happy with your can, trying to claim that a threaded, take apart, high power rifle suppressor is as strong or stronger than a welded can of equal weight and quality just shows that you really haven't done much study in the field.

Aside from repairing the damage caused by all the baffle strikes, why do you NEED to take your high power rifle can apart?

Here's a link to a thread on SNIPER'S HIDE, discussing the Wind Talker.
https://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3278358

MenaceMan47
Before you make a final decision and lay out a lot of cash, you should consider doing some serious research and make SURE that you really need a take apart HP rifle can before you lay out the money. For all practical purposes a suppressor is a lifetime purchase since the market for used suppressors isn't very strong.

Aaron Baker
January 12, 2013, 11:49 AM
That's not a thread discussing the Wind Talker. It is a thread where one guy asks about it, another guy says to get an AAC instead and the rest of the thread is about suppressing an M1A.

It is possible to have baffle strikes with a threaded suppressor, but depending on the design, not necessarily any more common that a baffle strike when a welded can unthreads from the muzzle. Any time there are threads, you'll need to periodically check them for tightness.

Some people want a user serviceable HP rifle can because they want to also shoot .22 LR or cast lead. It isn't unreasonable. There are drawbacks, and they merit discussion, but keep it High Road.

Aaron

Charles S
January 12, 2013, 04:38 PM
When the threads come loose, things can get out of alignment, this can lead to baffle strikes, ...

Unless the can is welded to the gun then the can has a big a chance of coming loose on a threaded barrel as does the end cap or the any part of a threaded can. The baffles in the can I referred to are not threaded.

If the can is of a quick detachable design then it really depends of the individual mechanism. I don't see that a user serviceable can is at any higher risk than a welded can.

if you need graphics to understand, you can simply loosen up the threads on your can a bit and do some field research. I'm sure that will illustrate the problem so that it's easily understood.

This is the High Road lets try to keep it there.

Can you please provide me with a list of cans that AREN'T rated for subsonic ammo?
Any manufacturer (or owner) that makes a claim like that is really grasping at straws.

No... Feel free to your own research. I know for a fact... I talked to them myself ACC, AWC, and Gem Tech will void your warranty if they know you are shooting subsonic ammo in a rifle can.

Baffle strike are inevitable over time. There is a current thread on Silencer talk by a manufacturer that estimates 75% of the cans they re-build have had a baffle strike.

I just keep shooting since I haven't had any of the problems that you've apparently had.
To each his own...

I have not had any problems.... however since as you so astutely pointed out a can is a life time purchase. I simply wanted one rated to do all the things I could possibly want to do and wanted be able to service it myself.

Captains1911
January 12, 2013, 08:48 PM
Baffle strike are inevitable over time. There is a current thread on Silencer talk by a manufacturer that estimates 75% of the cans they re-build have had a baffle strike.


Would you mind providing a link to the thread you mentioned? I looked but could not find. Thanks.

Swampman
January 12, 2013, 11:22 PM
Originally posted by Charles S
"Baffle strike are inevitable over time."

Why is that?

Charles S
January 13, 2013, 10:06 AM
Would you mind providing a link to the thread you mentioned? I looked but could not find. Thanks.

I don't generally post links to other forums, but at your request:

http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=101059&p=823238&hilit=baffle+strike#p823238

My memory is failing me sorry - according to this thread it is 70% noted on re-builds not 75%. My mistake :)

Why is that?

According to my research - the most common cause is loose threads, other common causes include using poor quality ammo, warping of the barrel or can with heating, miss alined threads, and ammo that is too heavy for the rate of twist that does not stabilize (most often with subsonic ammo in rifles).

I guess the best advice given to me was buy a quality can from a manufacturer who honors their warranty, use quality ammo and don't to anything stupid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShIu5ygc-bg

Here is a Gemtech can with a torture test.

My next can may be a Liberty. I hear really good things about them.

http://www.libertycans.net/

chaser_2332
January 13, 2013, 12:35 PM
No need to take a centerfire can apart and clean.

wacki
January 15, 2013, 12:14 AM
Liberty, SWR & SilencerCo are the top cans w/ best customer service. Don't underestimate Liberty, their website is ho-hum but their cans meter incredibly well. SWR can's have locking teeth. Check out the silencershop.com videos on the SWR SpecWar.

I've heard good things about the folks at Thompson Machine too.

Check out a thread at NFAtalk.org titled:

Test Results to Date **ALL RESULTS ARE HERE FOR COMPARISON**

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