January 4, 2013, 05:26 PM
Has there ever been a successful attempt at modifying a Remington clone to use a coil spring & plunger for the hand tension flat spring?
Seeing as I've only ever seen one source for the spring (alone) and haven't tried one for fit to my hand with a broken spring (yet), and all the hassle involved in fitting hands for proper cylinder advance function, I'd certainly like to change my project gun over to the superior spring method.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
January 5, 2013, 10:19 AM
Yes, I've seen a few pictures and explanations, but never done one myself. One of the best primers is "Tuning_the_Pietta_Part_Two" by Larsen E. Pettifogger. He explains one of these conversions in this doc.
The first result on Google is this...
You may as well check out Part one as well...
Of course this is on a Colt replica, but many have been done on Remington Replicas as well.
January 5, 2013, 04:16 PM
I am not sure that it can be done to the Remington as the Remington has the grip frame integral with the main frame. On the Colt style revolvers, the hole for the new spring is covered by the back strap, a seperate piece from the main frame.
January 5, 2013, 04:20 PM
I could have sworn someone here abouts had either done or suggested drilling the hole in a remington then threding the hole and setting in a screw. I just seem to recall they made comments about the difficulty of getting the hole started on the curved surface......
January 5, 2013, 06:56 PM
You are correct; I recall the same thing. Don't recall who said it, however. Maybe it was in the THR Remington Club thread...there's only about 1000 posts to read.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
January 5, 2013, 08:16 PM
Yup, you just add a set screw.
I recall Pettifogger indicating he converts all his replicas, including his Remingtons.
January 5, 2013, 08:38 PM
I have a 4" Remmie that Pettifogger did.
He converted the hand to coil spring & plunger.
He drilled the backstrap (impressive as it is a curved surface), threaded it, and the spring/plunger is held in by an allen screw.
January 6, 2013, 12:02 PM
My biggest concern is getting the hole plotted properly.
I'd certainly be willing to pay an experienced 'smith to modify my s.s. Pietta frame....
January 6, 2013, 03:06 PM
Once you locate where the hole needs to be drilled and tapped, you can set the revolver up in the milling machine and use a small end mill to cut a flat where you need to drill and tap.
Then, a center drill or spotting drill can be used to locate the hole.
After that, you can drill and tap the hole, just like any other flat surface.
It's a LOT easier to drill/tap a flat surface, than a curved one.
On a stainless steel revolver, you don't even have to worry about refinishing the flat. You could polish it, if you desire. With a small enough end mill, there wouldn't be enough flat surface left, after drilling/tapping, to really worry about.
That's the way I'll do mine, if I do them.
Obviously, getting the revolver set up in the mill vise is a lot easier, if you remove the barrel first.
A metal shaper could also be used to make the flat. I may go that route, since I have a couple of table extensions for mine. I can drill a hole in one of them, for the barrel.
Then, I don't have to remove the barrel. I can use my drill press to drill/tap the hole.
I'll just enlarge one of the holes or slots in my drill press table and center the vise over it.