Wad Cutter For A .44 Percussion Revolver


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tpelle
January 23, 2013, 04:16 PM
I have some felt that would be suitable for cutting wads for my .44s, but don't have a wad cutter. I know a lot of folks use a Harbor Freight 7/16" hole punch to cut wads, but 7/16" = .4375 which seems too small for me.

It just occurred to me that I have at home a single old 45-70 cartridge case, and I wonder (if I can find it) if that would be suitable, once I sharpen the case mouth, for punching the wads?

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zimmerstutzen
January 23, 2013, 04:40 PM
your chambers are probably closer to 45 caliber. Dixie and a few others sold/sell cutters that are slightly over size to make sure the wad fits snugly, but without bending or buckling. A 45-70 case would probably do the trick If you cut the case back , annealed (hardened) the brass and sharpened it, you might be able to chuck it into a hand drill.

Some guys have ground the teeth off of hole saws and sharpened them. Seems it would be easier to buy the 45 cal. punch.

rodwha
January 23, 2013, 05:14 PM
I contacted Ohio Ramrod on this forum:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/
He makes excellent quality punches at a reasonable cost ($10). I have 2.
I bought the Harbor Freight punches and it wouldn't even punch through my felt!

the Black Spot
January 23, 2013, 06:32 PM
I use a fired 444 marlin case, the wad is going to spread out when fired

mykeal
January 23, 2013, 07:18 PM
7/16" = .4375 which seems too small for me.
And it would be if the wads didn't expand to the side when you seat a ball on top of them. Which they do.

44 Dave
January 23, 2013, 09:08 PM
I made a wad punch out of a 3/8 pipe drilled a little way in with 7/16 then ground the outside and finished with a chain saw file.
It is not the best but used on pine end grain have punched out almost 100 wads with a little touch up to the edge.

unknwn
January 23, 2013, 10:08 PM
This is the shi! :
http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=160593&CAT=4113
a little but pricey, but I cut a perfect wad from Durafelt extra-hard 1/8" by twisting it with my thumb & finger, I really needn't say any more.

Dave Markowitz
January 24, 2013, 10:27 AM
I use the HF 7/16" punch that I polished out on the inside using a Dremel and a small cylindrical grinding wheel. The resulting wads work well in m .44s.

Noz
January 24, 2013, 12:40 PM
Harbor Freight sells sets of hollow punches that when slightly sharpened work well punching out wads. I found that the 11mm punch is perfect for my 1860s. When I bought mine they were around $7 for a set.
I use old plastic cutting boards as a pad to punch on. I've never worn on out.
With a claw hammer you can punch enough wads in an hour to make you sick of the job and produce enough wads to last a WHILE.

Hellgate
January 24, 2013, 01:32 PM
I use a 7/16" punch chucked into my drill press on slow speed and they punch out with a whole lot less noise than with a hammer. It helps to hog out the step on the inside channel of the punch so they moore smoothly emerge without flying all over the room. After they are cut out THEN I lube them. An alternative is to buy Circle Fly 45cal fiber wads (shotgun wads) and lube them and split them. They also make pre-lubed wads of various sizes.

circlefly.com

swathdiver
January 24, 2013, 06:22 PM
I like the .480 wads that I bought from the PossibleShop. But would like to make my own using Durofelt. Know where one can get a .480 wad cutter?

kBob
January 24, 2013, 07:38 PM
I thought you meant a wad cutter design bullet.

-kBob

TomADC
January 24, 2013, 07:41 PM
12 mm punch is .472 should work.
http://www.greenboatstuff.com/coscoarpuno11.html

Gatofeo
January 25, 2013, 12:36 AM
The 7/16" wad cutter is too small. It's a drop fit in the chamber.
You want a wad that fits firmly in the chamber, and touches the sides as it's being rammed in.
Upon firing, pressure flares the felt wad outward, creating a scraping effect against fouling.
I use my 7/16" wad cutter to cut 1/8" felt wads for my .44-40 rifle. I lubricate the wads with the homemade Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant, then seat them on the black powder in the case.
This is followed with a 212 gr. soft lead Lyman 427098 bullet, also lubricated with Gatofeo No. 1 lube. The 24" barrel remains far cleaner than with any other lubricant or loading method.
For the .44 cap and ball, I use a .45-caliber wad punch. This punch will also be useful for creating wads in cartridges loaded with black powder, such as .45 Long Colt and .45-70.
Cut your wads to be .45 caliber in .44 and .45-caliber cap and ball revolvers. In the .36 caliber, use the 3/8" wad cutter.

Dave Markowitz
January 25, 2013, 09:08 PM
The 7/16" wad cutter is too small. It's a drop fit in the chamber.

In my Pietta 1858 Remingtons, my EOA 1858, and my EOA Rogers & Spencer I use a HF 7/16" punch slightly reamed out (more polished than reamed out) with a grinding stone in my Dremel. One thing to keep in mind with cheap tools from China is that the nominal size may not be very accurate.

AJumbo
January 26, 2013, 06:39 PM
I use a 7/16" punch that is polished out by chucking it in a drill press, running it at low speed, and using a Dremel tool with a fine grinding cylinder to gently and slowly remove steel from the inside of the punch. It's awkward and hazardous to do, so be careful. The wads I get fit my ROA just a hair snugger than Ox-Yoke wads, but I never have measured them. They work fine.

I use the drill press to punch out the felt, usually without actually running it. The punch heats up when used as a hole saw with the poly cutting board or end-grain wood block I use for a backer, so why bother? I hate melted cutting boards.

I find it easier and faster to lube the stock before cutting it; I can get a more consistent application of the lube than if I try to soak a mess of wads in melted Bore Butter.

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