.243 Win resize problem - pic


January 28, 2013, 08:29 PM
I'm resizing/ decapping some .243 Winchester cartridges. Downstroke (cartridge insertion), everything is fine (I'm using new Redding dies). Upstroke (cartridge withdrawal) is TOUGH and this is what each piece of brass has, some kind of divet on the side of the neck. Please tell me what I am doing wrong. Thanks!



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January 28, 2013, 08:31 PM
Oil dents from too much sizing lube on the cases.
Use way less sizing lube + clean the excess lube out of the die and it will go away.
Just a very thin film of lube is all you need.

Hard expander button extraction is unrelated.

Lube the insides of the case necks with a nylon bore bursh rolled on a lube pad and that will go away too.


January 28, 2013, 08:53 PM
RC nailed it again.


January 28, 2013, 08:56 PM
+1 on what RC said about too much lube - I don't even put lube all the way up to the shoulder on my cases, just thinly on the lower 3/4 of the sidewall. A little brush and some lube inside the necks will help for withdrawing the expander shaft.

January 29, 2013, 12:35 PM
ok i will cut back on the lube. Its hard for me to understand this though.
know of any way i can get the dents out of these necks or are they trash :(

January 29, 2013, 12:39 PM
Load them and shoot them.

The dents will be gone.

And it shouldn't be hard to understand.
Oil cannot be compressed, not even a little.
Thats why they use some form of it for the hydraulic fluid in your cars brakes and power steering.

If there is an excess of oil on the case or in the die, something has to give when you try to compress it.
The hardened steel die won't give, so the brass has too.


Arkansas Paul
January 29, 2013, 12:55 PM
Try some Imperial sizing wax. I've never had a dented case with it. Imperial also makes a media applicator that you just dip the case neck in and it wont be hard on the upstroke.

January 29, 2013, 02:44 PM
I guess the part i'm having a hard time understanding is the upstroke, why it "sticks" and requires so much pressure to withdraw the case. If I lube the inside of the neck, do I need to try and remove the lube after the FL die process? Won't powder, etc.. stick to lube inside the case?

January 29, 2013, 02:49 PM

Again, we are not talking about a bunch of lube inside the necks.

I said "roll a nylon bore brush on a lube pad" and clean the necks with it.

That doesn't leave enough lube inside the neck for anything to stick too.
And the expander butten scraps whatever samll amount there is back out when it pulls back through the case.

BTW: What brand of case lube are you using??


January 29, 2013, 03:13 PM
ok, I need to get a small brush for that. I reckon I could use a q-tip in the meantime.
Currently I'm using a 2 oz. bottle of RCBS brand case lube. I use a small rag to apply the lube. However, I do have a Lyman case lube pad on order.

January 29, 2013, 03:37 PM
You will get too much lube inside the neck with a Q-Tip, unless you are very very stingy with it.
A bronze bore brush will work just as well as a nylon one if you have one of those.

As for how much case lube to use?

Lube the case however you do it.
Then try to wipe off all the lube you can with your slightly lube soiled fingers.

All that will be left is Just Right.

And you will have enough excess lube on your fingers to do several more cases without adding any more.


January 29, 2013, 09:12 PM
You can use powdered graphite to lube the inside of the case neck which will not contaminate powder.

January 29, 2013, 09:34 PM
Basically, you're lubing the wrong ends; put less on the neck/shoulder and more on the lower end, that's the hard part to size and where they get stuck if you don't use enough lube; sounds like you're on the ragged edge of pulling a rim off.

Cases don't get stuck from not lubing inside the necks so that's optional.

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