Handloads & Lead in the barrel???


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cowtownup
February 7, 2013, 04:13 PM
I am rolling my own 40 S&W loads using 180 gr lead bullets.. I've shot about 100 rounds so far and I stop after 50 rounds and break down the gun to inspect the barrel for leading.. I'm shooting a SW40VE and I'm noticing some deposit in the barrel. Nothing major, but I just like to keep my stuff in the best shape possible... Today I was unable to remove those deposits with brush and patches... I actually had to let the barrel sit for a while in Hoppes before I was able to get the barrel to what I would consider CLEAN... Is this just a part of shooting lead bullets or do I need to keep trying to work up a load that does not lead the barrel as bad? Does velocity of lead bullet affect how much lead it leaves in the barrel?

Load Data
5.0 gr Power Pistol
Remington 5 1/2 magnum primers
180 gr lead RN
1.125 OAL

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7075-T7
February 7, 2013, 04:23 PM
I don't load for .40S&W, but with my .44 magnum, there's always some leading in the barrel near the forcing cone when I shoot a bunch. I always run a cyl or two of jacketed rounds through it before I'm done and it cleans it up.

Could try that instead of scrubbing for an hour.

BHarada
February 7, 2013, 04:30 PM
Two options to try. The first, and cheap one is to buy a Chore Boy copper scouring pad, pull off a few strands of the copper and wrap it around your bore brush. Then scrub the barrel with bore cleaner as you normally would.

http://choreboyscrubbers.com/~/media/Images/Chore%20Boy/Products/product-copper.ashx

The second option is to buy a Lewis Lead Remover kit from Brownells (http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx?ttver=1). I don't know when it was invented, but I've been using it since '82. Works great for scrubbing lead out of the barrel and also comes with a fitting to clean lead out of the forcing cone.

jr_watkins
February 7, 2013, 04:33 PM
Several things can cause leading, but the two biggest are size and hardness. I know, why does it always come down to that!:what:

If the bullet is too small (diameter) it doesn't fill the barrel and the hot gas burns by it causing leading.

If the bullet is too hard for the pressure, the base of the bullet doesn't 'deform' enough to seal the barrel and hot gas burns by it causing leading.

Too soft of bullet also causes leading, but not as often as you might think.

At 40S&W velocities, probably ~900ft/sec, you can get away with a pretty soft bullet. Consider how soft 22LR bullets are and they almost never cause leading.

ArchAngelCD
February 7, 2013, 04:36 PM
Many factors go into leading in your barrel. Amount of lube, type of lube, bullet hardness, pressure, bullet size and other things too. I wouldn't worry about the small amount of leading you are getting. I have found if you swab the inside of the barrel with a good Copper cleaner and let it sit for a half hour or more the lead comes right out.

BTW, I have found Power Pistol to be a hot powder that will cause leading easier than some other powders available for the 40 S&W when using lead bullets.

Eb1
February 7, 2013, 04:38 PM
Shooting my .44 Mag SBH with MO. Cast 240 Keith clones and IMR 4227 there is zero leading after 200 rounds being shot.
Just the right combo I guess.

Also my XD9 with 125 gr. Conical bullet and 5 gr. Unique doesn't lead at all. I think you just have to find the right combo.

Hammerdown77
February 7, 2013, 04:38 PM
Consider how soft 22LR bullets are and they almost never cause leading.

They also have a nice, waxy lube coating on them. There's a lesson to be learned there, methinks...

Walkalong
February 7, 2013, 05:14 PM
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6232577&postcount=7

cowtownup
February 7, 2013, 05:25 PM
Thanks for the information... I've also got some loads worked up using Longshot Powder and I hope to try those out this week also...

GLOOB
February 7, 2013, 06:59 PM
If the bullet is too small (diameter) it doesn't fill the barrel and the hot gas burns by it causing leading.

Ok, I've read this a hundred times, BUT...

...what about a bullet too big?

I've never heard someone attribute leading to an oversized bullet. So I have been shooting my cast pistol bullets unsized. They feed and chamber fine. Accuracy is fine. I'm using the softest alloy I have (WW's), and no matter how much LLA I put on 'em, I'm still getting leading.

I can try a softer alloy, but if I buy bullet sizers, will that have any chance of reducing leading? Again, leading would be the only reason for me to try sizing. Accuracy and reliability are fine.

Walkalong
February 7, 2013, 09:55 PM
What caliber and pressure level?

GLOOB
February 7, 2013, 10:06 PM
My 9mm cast is the worst. Stock Glock and a LW barrel. Both lead about equally badly.

The leading starts shortly past the chamber and goes all the way to muzzle.

125 gr bullet over 5.1 UN or 4.4 HP38.

Tried light coats of Alox, first. Then went on to heavy coats, TL grooves completely filled and colored brown. Didn't make much difference.

Weird thing, with MBC bullets I got some pretty impressive leading in my stock Glock barrel, but it would shoot clean out if I put a couple plated bullets in each mag. No cleaning required thru nearly a thousand rounds fired that way. That doesn't work with my bullets. Lead needs to be scraped away, afterward.

jr_watkins
February 7, 2013, 10:25 PM
9mm has been a real problem for me as well. 38's and 44's I have been able to come up with a good combo of size/hardness/pressure that works for both accuracy and almost no leading.

I'm still looking for an answer in 9mm. Thus far, switching to plated bullets (Berry's & Rainier) is my work around.

GLOOB
February 7, 2013, 10:35 PM
I have been shooting mostly jacketed and plated bullets in 9mm, too. Commercial cast in my other handguns, but I just didn't like the leading I got in 9mm. Even with commercial bullets.

So, do you size your pistol bullets in any of your calibers?

I size and check my rifle bullets, and I've yet to see any fouling, at all. I'm curious if I'm missing out by not sizing my pistol lead. I've heard many do not, and yet I see lots of pistol caliber bullet sizers for sale. :)

Muddydogs
February 7, 2013, 10:38 PM
Well in all these posts I see a lot of numbers but I don't see the most important numbers which are barrel diameter and bullet diameter. You don't know if you are shooting a bullet that is to big or to small if you don't know what size the barrel and bullet are. First step with shooting lead and reducing leading is to slug your barrel and measure the diameter. Most barrels are close to what they are supposed to be, my XD .40 is 400, 357's are .357 but I have a .380 that runs .356 instead of .355 and a Kahr .40 that is .398. The basic rule with cast is shoot .001 size bigger bullet then the barrel diameter so a .40 with .400 barrel needs a .401 bullet, 357 should shoot .358. Once the bullet diameter is figured out and if leading is still present then start chasing the bullet hardness, type of powder and lube used.

GLOOB
February 7, 2013, 10:50 PM
Muddy, that's why I'm asking.

I've heard that bullets too small will cause leading. But I've never heard that bullets too big for the bore (but still small enough to fit the cylinder throat and/or freebore) will cause leading.

I know a lot of 9mm bores actually measure as much as 358, but I have read that Glock 9mm's barrels usually slug out to 3555-3560. My bullets are dropping at maybe 356-358. And they lead both my 9mm barrels.

Before slugging it out... why would I bother if an oversize bullet won't cause leading? My bullets won't work, either way, then, right? I can't make my bullets any bigger...

hueyville
February 7, 2013, 10:54 PM
Been casting and shooting lead for over 30 years and found that specific combination that works in all my pistols. Linotype/wheel weight alloy. Lyman lubrisizer with heater using Lyman Orange lube exclusively. Use moderate burn rate powder, keep velocity between 850 and 950 fps. If push above 1,000 fps then add gas check. Rifle bullets more bearing surface so that line for adding gas checks is about 1,250 fps. Whatever your barrel length, try match powder so burn rate maximizes according tube. If you are launching 44's out of 4" barrel, keep loads a lil slower using faster powder. But if shooting 8" barrel, use slower powder that keeps acceleration curve where powder burns in 60 to 70% barrel length. You don't want your short gun puking unburnt 2400 or your 10" barrel having full acceleration in first 2" using Bullseye. You will get a feel for what works and doesn't. Just cleaning.the gun is part of your evidence. If you get one completely fouled, a Lewis Lead Remover is best tool made. Use by instructions only. Can foul up your crown if do it backwards. I have not used mine in decades. I can shoot 1,500 rounds and two swipes with a phoshor/bronze brush then a patch cleans all my barrels. Find your combination which you will and.stick with it.

kerreckt
February 7, 2013, 11:01 PM
I clean the leading out of my pistols by firing several jacketed bullets at the end of my shooting session. When I get home I spray some Kroil and let it sit about 20 minutes then clean as usual. Sometimes I have to do the Kroil thing, again. They always come out shiney clean with no evidence of deposits. It's kind of a PIA but I really enjoy casting bullets and shooting them. So I figure it's the price I pay for such great entertainment.

Muddydogs
February 7, 2013, 11:09 PM
Muddy, that's why I'm asking.

I've heard that bullets too small will cause leading. But I've never heard that bullets too big for the bore (but still small enough to fit the cylinder throat and/or freebore) will cause leading.

I know a lot of 9mm bores actually measure as much as 358, but I have read that Glock 9mm's barrels usually slug out to 3555-3560. My bullets are dropping at maybe 356-358. And they lead both my 9mm barrels.

Before slugging it out... why would I bother if an oversize bullet won't cause leading? My bullets won't work, either way, then, right? I can't make my bullets any bigger...
It could be that your bullets are way to big, I have a .358 mold that drops .362 bullets with WW lead. Measure your bullets and see what size they are. Slugging your barrel is rather easy. Take a fired case with spent primer, fill it with pure lead, pull slug with kinetic bullet puller, start slug in barrel with soft mallet then drive it through with a dowel or cleaning rod. I assume you want to stop the leading? This is the best place to start. The above post about using strands of a copper scrubber is correct in that its a great way to remove lead. Some guys swear by shooting a couple jacketed bullets or gas check bullets after lead will clean out leading also.

hueyville
February 8, 2013, 10:31 AM
Following up a session of cast bullet shooting with a mag load of jacketed bullets will help with lead deposits. But it is a band aid if you have a problem that needs to be fixed. Get you cast bullets working right. Blaze away then just to keep you used to your full house carry rounds, after a long cast bullet shooting session empty your primary carry mag. Keeps your carry ammo rotated, keeps you used to the difference between the two and makes clean up easier if you have minor to moderate leading issues. Your mileage may vary.

StrawHat
February 8, 2013, 10:39 AM
An easy way to slug the bore is to use a round ball slightly larger than the bore. For 38, I typically use .380 commonly available where black powder supplies are sold.

The idea of using Chore Boy is a good one but be aware, there are two grades of that product, one is pure copper, the other is copper plated steel. Take a magnet and check to make sure you get the pure copper. One strand wrapped around an old bore brush works wonders on a heavily leaded barrel.

If you opt to shoot the lead out with a jacketed bullet, good luck. All that does is iron the lead into the barrel and makes it more difficult to remove.

The easiest way to remove lead from the barrel is to prevent it from sticking in the first place. Cheack out some of the cast bullet sites and read the stickies. Lots of good info there.

mgmorden
February 8, 2013, 10:48 AM
The idea of using Chore Boy is a good one but be aware, there are two grades of that product, one is pure copper, the other is copper plated steel. Take a magnet and check to make sure you get the pure copper.

Check it just to be sure, but I'm 97.2% positive that if its actual Chore Boy brand, they only make pure-copper ones that are that color (they make a stainless steel scrubber but its not copper colored). For off brands though almost all of those are copper-plated steel.

Wal-mart and such doesn't carry the actual Chore-Boy pads around here, but the local hardware store does so I bought several boxes from them.

I will say though that just for me, the headache of lead bullets has proved too great. I've put about 1000 through a .38 Special and about 2700 through a 9mm. Have 300 rounds left for that 9mm and when those are gone my days of shooting lead are over :). I'll still likely use Bayou Bullets and other such coated lead where applicable though.

Walkalong
February 8, 2013, 11:58 AM
The leading starts shortly past the chamber and goes all the way to muzzle.Since it starts just after the chamber you are getting gas cutting from the bullet not sealing the grooves at the start of the journey. You either need a larger bullet, a softer bullet, more pressure, a combo of two or more of these, or you are squeezing the bullet undersized during loading.

jcwit
February 8, 2013, 12:07 PM
Hate to bring this up, but are you using a Factory Crimp Die?

brickeyee
February 8, 2013, 12:18 PM
I'm using the softest alloy I have (WW's)

Very soft bullets are pretty much limited to under 900 ft/s.

That is about as fast as you can drive a swaged lead bullet also.

The lead has to be very soft for swaging.

You also need to start with a scrupulously clean barrel.

ANY copper from jacketed bullets is going to grab lead.

Occasionally there are enough machine marks in a barrel to catch lead.

cowtownup
February 8, 2013, 12:28 PM
jcwit, I am using a factory crimp die.. i am doing what I would say is a light crimp...

homatok
February 8, 2013, 12:53 PM
Go on "Google". Type in Cast Boolits and start reading!

ArchAngelCD
February 8, 2013, 01:04 PM
jcwit, I am using a factory crimp die.. i am doing what I would say is a light crimp...
There are those who feel the post-sizing performed by the Lee Factory Crimp die will cause the bullet to be undersized thus adding to the possibility of leading the barrel. I have not had that problem but I don't doubt those who report having that problem.

Try crimping with your seating die and eliminate the FCD and see if that helps the leading situation.

hueyville
February 8, 2013, 01:54 PM
mgmorden, Since I actually started documenting all of my reloading I have loaded and fired over a half million cast bullets in a variety of guns. 95+% of these are made to standard specs as far as diameter and OAL as I usually shoot them through a myriad of guns.

For rest of posters, slugging you barrel is great if your loading for one gun. Have one 44 mag that gets a custom size bullet and one .454 Casull. I personally own over a dozen 1911's in .45 acp. Then in 38/357 I own a dozen or more handguns, 9mm I have three Hi-Powers just because they are such a nice pistol even though one of my least favorite pistol cartridges. That being said, 9mm is a stunning sub machinegun cartridge and I love it for that. With gas checks I can run cast through them doing mag dumps. I have half a dozen or so .44's and so on.

I am not going to slug every gun and size bullets for it. I have just a couple that are out of spec enough to have issue with my standard size cast loads. In fact, I have been known to trade off quite a few out of spec guns, let the guy shooting one box of factory ammo per year have them. The few guns that don't shoot cast due to being that far out of spec I keep mostly for sentimental reasons. Like a little Colt Cobra and such. My high volume 1911's in 45 and 38 super were built with custom barrels that function flawlessly with my standard cast bullet from the onset. My pistol smith is always sent a sample box of my ammo to build the gun to. Barrel and springs all tuned to my everyday loads. Plain Jane guns that won't shoot my standard sizings get traded or not shot with cast thus migrate to the bottom of a.stack in the back of a vault. If your only loading for one gun then slug it. Logistics of having two to three diameters of bullets per caliber would overwhelm me.

LivewireBlanco
February 8, 2013, 02:37 PM
Never had good luck with Hoppes getting lead out. Switched to Shooter's Choice and haven't had a problem with lead since.

GLOOB
February 8, 2013, 06:02 PM
Apologies to OP for tagging along on the thread.

Walkalong, thanks for your input re: fouling past chamber, stretching to muzzle. I originally guessed that was caused by the lube running out, but I have proven well enough to myself that more lube is not helping. I'll either try bumping up my charge, or once I get some pure lead I can also slug my bores and try some softer bullet alloy.

jcwit
February 8, 2013, 07:41 PM
There are those who feel the post-sizing performed by the Lee Factory Crimp die will cause the bullet to be undersized thus adding to the possibility of leading the barrel. I have not had that problem but I don't doubt those who report having that problem.

Try crimping with your seating die and eliminate the FCD and see if that helps the leading situation.


Please lets not get into a mega long winded discussion on the pluses or minuses of the FCD. Supposedly it works great with jacketed ammo.

With that said all I can say to the above quote is "YUP".

bds
February 9, 2013, 02:21 AM
Lead in the barrel ... 40 S&W ... 180 gr lead bullets ... SW40VE ... 5.0 gr Power Pistol ... 1.125 OAL ... after 50 rounds and I'm noticing some deposit in the barrel.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=179382&stc=1&d=1360393936

As shown above, 2004 Alliant load data (glarp.atk.com/2004/2004Catalogs/2004AlliantPowderSM.pdf) indicates 6.9 gr as max charge for 180 gr lead bullet and Power Pistol using 1.125" OAL. If you use 10% reduction as start charge, that would be 6.2 gr.


Lyman #49 load data
175 gr TCFP Power Pistol 1.125" OAL Start 5.9 gr (908 fps) 18,900 CUP - Max 6.6 gr (998 fps) 21,600 CUP

175 gr TCFP Power Pistol 1.100" OAL Start 5.8 gr (873 fps) 18,900 CUP - Max 6.5 gr (996 fps) 22,900 CUP

+1 to Walkalong's post #8 (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8724784#post8724784). At 5.0 gr of Power Pistol, you may not be generating enough chamber pressure to bump/deform the base of the bullet to seal with the barrel (obturation) and experiencing high pressure gas leakage/gas cutting which increases leading. I would try 5.6 - 5.8 - 6.0 gr charges and see if leading decreases. If so, continue the powder workup while monitoring accuracy trend and select the powder charge that produces reliable slide cycling, accurate shot groups and no leading.


are you using a Factory Crimp Die?
I am using a factory crimp die
I do not recommend the use of FCD for lead bullets in semi-auto calibers. If a reloader is experiencing leading with FCD, a simple test would be to load some test rounds without it. If leading decreases or goes away, then load the lead rounds without the FCD.


I was unable to remove those deposits with brush and patches... I actually had to let the barrel sit for a while in Hoppes ...
I did the same with frustration until I wrapped some copper strands (Chore boy) around an old copper bore brush to remove the leading. Now, one dip in Hoppes #9 and a few strokes will remove the leading and I have a clean barrel.


Is this just a part of shooting lead bullets or do I need to keep trying to work up a load that does not lead the barrel as bad?
No, unless you want to. As others already suggested, I do the following to minimize/reduce leading when shooting lead bullets:

- Slug the barrel and use bullet sized .001" over the groove diameter (so for .400" groove diameter barrel, use .401" sized lead bullets).

- I load for multiple pistols so instead of using different sized bullets, I use softer bullets (12/15/18 BHN instead of 22/24 BHN) with sufficient powder/charges that provide proper deformation of bullet base (obturation). For me, having one load that works in multiple pistols is much easier. I mean, what if you get the bullets mixed up and lock up the slide? ;):D

- Use the barrel drop / function check tests and use the longest OAL to reduce high pressure gas leakage/gas cutting.

- Conduct a full powder work up to determine powder charges that produce reliable slide cycling/spent case extraction and accuracy without leading.


Does velocity of lead bullet affect how much lead it leaves in the barrel?
I think velocity/leading is relative to the bullet-to-barrel fit/lead alloy hardness/powder burn rate/powder charge.

Since slower burning powders tend to develop more consistent chamber pressures at high-to-near max load data, I use faster burning powders for lighter target loads (W231/HP-38 or faster). I am not sure if using lighter 5.0 gr charge of Power Pistol was meant to develop a lighter target load vs full-power load.

Since I load for multiple pistols, even when I lack the .001" over bullet-to-barrel fit, using softer BHN bullets and W231/HP-38 allow me to load lighter target loads that produce accuracy without leading. Much more on leading at this link - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm

Reefinmike
February 9, 2013, 03:24 AM
after tinkering around a bit, i have gotten to the point that after a hundred rounds, I may have very minimal leading- usually a couple chunks clinging to the lands very close to the forcing cone. for 38's, my recipe is 80% clip on ww's, 20% stick on ww's, casted hot and quenched. lightly aloxed, sized to .358 and then another mild coat of alox and plop them on top of 3.4gr hp38. after a shooting session, I will shoot a cylinder or two of plated 357 rounds to clear out any lead and keep me up to snuff on the hot stuff!

same goes for 45 but I dont see much leading. to be honest, while brass hunting, i pick up any dropped round for my milk jug collection and I pull any 45 rn fmj ammo, weigh the bullet to ensure it is a 230 grainer and I load it back it up with fresh powder for clearing out residual lead.

cowtownup
February 9, 2013, 07:37 AM
Thank you for the response bds.... I enjoyed the other posters comments as well... Being new to reloading, I've already loaded about 300 more rounds that I've used the FCD on but with a slightly hotter charge at 5.5 grains, so I'm probably going to learn a good lesson here about being patient and shoot some before you load a bunch... I've loaded a few rounds up at 6.5 grains but noticed it ejected the spent casing quite a bit farther than factory ammo does, so I backed down from that.. I'm observing all of my casing for signs of pressure and have yet to see anything out of the way there either. Nevertheless, i enjoy rolling my own (ammo that is) and I find it quite relaxing..

dragon813gt
February 9, 2013, 08:51 AM
If you shoot lead then you need to read this: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

There is a chapter dedicated to leading and it's causes.

Fit is king along w/ proper lube.


Brought to you by TapaTalk

cowtownup
February 12, 2013, 06:59 PM
This is after 100 rounds of lead.....

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x256/cowtownupp/photobucket-46467-1360694932734_zps82535a0d.jpg


I followed that up with about 25 plated bullets and it cleaned it right up...

Ky Larry
February 13, 2013, 12:06 AM
A light coat of Alox helped greatly with leading. Also,bumping the load up or down will show what works best. I can shoot several hundred Valiant or MBC bullets in my .38s/.357s and my .45 ACPs without leading. I just got a set of .40 S&W dies and several thousand Valiant 180gr .40 bullets but haven't got to shoot any yet.

jack44
February 13, 2013, 10:21 AM
When I had a lead problem in my Marlin 45/70 I filled it with tranny fuiled (F) overnight. In the AM most of the lead was lose! I then took a 45 cal.brush wraped it with copper pad and scrubed I also use shooter choise lead remover let sit for 10 min. and the barrel was clean! I had to take alot of lead out! I sluged the barrel and the dia. was 452! now its 459.5! big jump...huh.

ldlfh7
February 13, 2013, 10:36 AM
Im reloading 124 gr lrn with 4.7gr wsf @ 1055ft/sec. If I back off a little would I expect less leading in my sw9ve?

Walkalong
February 13, 2013, 11:12 AM
I doubt it.

I would bump it up with WSF, or get to 1050ish with a faster power for my first try to reduce leading. Best I can guess with an unknown bullet.

popper
February 13, 2013, 04:49 PM
GLOOB - oversized can cause leading. Load a prepped dummy round, no lube, seat to the lube groove. Look for a fine lead sliver in the groove. Look for anything that will leave slivers of lead in the bbl. It's not gas cutting, but when a CB runs over those slivers, they get ironed onto the barrel. When the barrel sizes down the CB, some lead can get rubbed off by friction or sheared off. Causes leading the entire length of the barrel. I had a lot of trouble when my alloy was high in tin compared to antimony. Added Sb and the problem went away.

jjjitters
February 13, 2013, 05:48 PM
Check for a sharp edge at the transition from the chamber to throat or on the face of the leads. I polish all my barrels and after slugging all barrels I bought molds to drop at least .002" oversize and size to needed diameter.

Most of my barrels I haven't cleaned for six to eight months now. They are bright and shiny clean. My lube is a mixture of Carnuba Red, JPW, red grease, and moly. My 9's all stopped leading when I sized plenty big, most are .358" and I do water drop them for a harder bullet in that caliber.

Size is #1 !!! Beyond that sharp edges shave lead and the next round smears it into the barrel, and on and on..

Also Lee TL designs aren't the best for not leading.

Oh Ya, you should never have to rely on the powder charge to "bump up the bullet" to get it to seal !!!!

zxcvbob
February 13, 2013, 06:11 PM
If you shoot another 100 rounds does the leading get worse, or is it maxed out already? (your pic didn't look all that bad to me) Sometimes it's self-limiting.

I don't reload .40S&W, but 5 grains of PP sounds awfully light. If you want to shoot light loads, try using Red Dot powder or Bullseye.

cowtownup
February 13, 2013, 06:17 PM
I've not shot 200 rounds straight yet... I'm going to do that soon.. I've loaded some with 5.5 grains of Longshot and plan to try that as soon as the weather clears up a bit...

murf
February 14, 2013, 11:38 AM
a couple of things:

load a dummy round using the fcd. pull the bullet and measure its diameter at the base. make sure it's not reduced.

try seating and crimping in separate steps when not using the fcd.

also, try a harder bullet. your leading may be caused by the soft lead bullet skidding over the lands in the barrel.

murf

jjjitters
February 14, 2013, 07:18 PM
Yup ^^ some barrels with shallow rifling, aka 45acp, can/will skid with too soft. Depends greatly on powder used and how "hard" of a push it gives the bullet from the start. Faster powders are the most likely, not always though.

hueyville
February 14, 2013, 09:50 PM
You could have it electro chemically polished. Shooter the bore, less Burris to veal lead as it runs by.

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