The M48 trigger guard screws are the same as those for the standard Mauser 98.
Permit me a comment on fitting those screws. Those screws were made to snug up tight with the military stock. When you replaced the stock the screw bottomed out in the receiver before it properly clamped the guard and the receiver. When you kept trying to tighten it enough to fit properly, you snapped it off.
So when you get the new one, first, without the stock, make sure the trigger guard fits properly on the receiver. Make sure the screw tightens up OK. Then inlet the stock so the trigger guard keeps the same relationship with the receiver. Don't depend on the stock screw to crush 1/8" or more of wood. If the screw is too long, then grind some off the end of the screw. Keep doing this u until the screw fits and snugs the stock down without bottoming out.
If you plan to do that kins of stock work very often, buy a set of try screws from Brownells. They have "T" handles and are a lot easier to work with than the original screws.
March 3, 2013, 01:07 PM
These Forster screws serve to fill the holes, but do not lock the trigger guard screws.
They sure do, just like the originals. But the OP was referring to the guard screw, not the lock screw.
March 3, 2013, 10:33 PM
Jim, see his second question in post #4.
March 5, 2013, 03:40 PM
I have an m48 action I was putting in a Boyd's stock and I over tightened the front screw that secures the action. Now the shaft of the screw is stuck in the reciever, how can I get it out?
Were you by chance doing a "glass bedding" procedure?
March 5, 2013, 10:43 PM
Yes, the Forster lock screws do lock the guard screws, and the guard screws on the M48 Yugo are the same as the standard Mauser screws.
But I did some checking and found that the lock screws on an M48 are of a smaller diameter and are NOT interchangeable with those of a 98 Mauser, so the Forsters won't fit. (I would probably tap the hole for the standard size, but that would just be my solution.)
March 6, 2013, 11:38 AM
Jim K - do you know what tap would fit the standard mauser lock screws?
March 6, 2013, 12:35 PM
To get it out I first tried RCs' method to tap it out with penetrating oil. This worked for a short time before the screw bound up and the metal sheered off. After this I tried to just hammer a screw driver into it to make a slot. This got me another turn or two before it sheered off the metal. Finally I just drilled right through the center of the screw and than pounded a small screw driver into the hole. This gave me enough grip to turn it the rest of the way out. Thanks Guys!
I am still looking to find the tap for a standard Mauser 98 lock screw so I can complete the fix.
After further checking, I find that 3.5 x.6 metric is so close to 6 x 40 as to make no difference, and a 6x40 tap might be easier to get and/or cheaper.
March 6, 2013, 01:47 PM
Thanks Jim, I have a 6 x 40 I can use once the replacement screw shows up. I may even have the 3.5 x .6 metric around here somewhere.
This maybe a stupid question, but how were you able to identify the correct tap size? Are their any charts or resources I can use to find that info?
Thanks again Jim!
March 6, 2013, 01:51 PM
Zeke/Pa - sorry missed your question. No I was not glass bedding it. I just got the M48 action of gunbroker to match the Timmy trigger and Boyd's stock I already had. I had originally planned to put my M48A action together with the aftermarket parts, but I took the M48A out beforehand and realized I love it just the way it is. I will most likely be glass bedding it in the near future.
March 6, 2013, 07:57 PM
I have a set of metric taps and dies and that size is there. I also have a metric thread gauge. I also used Google to double check and found info on another site devoted to Mausers. Then, just to be triple sure, I took the lock screw out of a K.98k (1938 Mauser Oberndorf, FWIW) and swapped it with a 6x40 scope sight screw. The heads are different of course, but that doesn't matter in this case. The threads are close enough.
March 9, 2013, 12:47 PM
Thanks Jim! Turns out the lock screw for the K98 i git from Numerich fit like it was made for the hole, so I do not have to re-drill and tap the whole again! Thanks again everyone.
March 9, 2013, 05:42 PM
Drill small hole in screw then use easy-out to remove. Kroil (and a little heat) in the threads is a ++
"Center punch, tap-tap" sometimes works but be careful. Real gunsmiths would us the easy-out.
March 9, 2013, 09:07 PM
"Turns out the lock screw for the K98 i git from Numerich fit like it was made for the hole..."
Hmmm. No problem, just a puzzled look on my face. Glad things worked out for you.
March 10, 2013, 08:42 PM
Anyone ever hear of a reverse drill bit...... youll have it out in a few seconds
March 14, 2013, 04:41 PM
I have a set, however the head of the screw was very small I did not think the set I had contained one small enough for the job.
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