However, if it is stainless, it shouldn't have rusted.
So it must be damaged nickel.
As Florida Guy said above.
Open the cylinder and look inside the frame cut for the model number.
Then tell us what it says and we would have a better idea what would be required to refinish it.
March 10, 2013, 12:00 PM
Just list the model number, and we can tell you if it is stainless or nickel.
March 10, 2013, 01:58 PM
Unfortunately the stainless used in handguns (the ones I own) is mostly a magnetic variety. Most general purpose stainless isn't magnetic. That would be the most simple method.
Equally easy would be knowing the gun's model.
March 10, 2013, 10:27 PM
Ill look tomorrow
March 11, 2013, 10:03 PM
Got home late from work ill look tomorrow but how do you go about shipping a gun?
March 12, 2013, 06:08 AM
Smith now gets $275.00 to refinish blued guns.
March 13, 2013, 06:53 PM
Ok it's a s.s. 66
March 13, 2013, 09:03 PM
Model 66s are stainless. Try using Mother's mag polish to clean it up.
March 13, 2013, 09:30 PM
O it's f up he took it out of his truck he sold left it in the shop and rats peed on it.
March 13, 2013, 10:37 PM
Might be worth having it go to a shop for a media blasting job of some kind. It can then be left as is, or finished in something like hard chrome.
Alternatively, if it's still in good mechanical shape, might just be worth selling if you're not attached to it.
March 14, 2013, 09:37 PM
Naw I like the gun and if something ever happens to my daddy ill get the gun. I just want to get it fixed for him right now. Should I just get it done local? Anybody know someone around the 27344 zip in nc that can do a good job??
March 14, 2013, 10:45 PM
Anybody know someone around the 27344 zip in nc that can do a good job??
Go to a few local gun shops, and go to your local range. Ask locals and see which names come up over and over again with good recommendations and PERSONAL experience.
March 15, 2013, 01:29 AM
Here is a trick from a stainless fabriicator.
Take a Scotch Brite pad and work softened Lava bar soap into it.
Generally you want to match the corseness of the Sctoch Brite to the grain of the original finish. The red/maroon is usually a good starting grade.
This along with water works great for cleaning, touching up & blending scratches etc. on stainless and leaves a nice soft luster.
Keep it wet as you work and add more Lava as needed.
ALWAYS stroke in the direction of the original grain of the finish.
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