Model 10 snubby


March 12, 2013, 09:21 PM
I got a Model 10 snubby about two months ago, it has a boogered sideplate screw. It's a shooter but I want to replace the screw. It's the one just above the trigger. Besides taking it to a smith, what is the best way to remove the screw. I want to attempt this if it isn't that bad, I do this sort of thing at work only on alot bigger equipment. Just wanting a few ideas on this.The action is stiff and I figure it needs cleaning, probably what initiated this problem before I got the gun. Thanks..

If you enjoyed reading about "Model 10 snubby" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
March 12, 2013, 09:46 PM
Had the same problem with the same screw on an N frame 357 I bought last year. Broke two screwdrivers on it and finally took it to a smith who had to drill it out. Cost me $100 which pissed me off and added to the already too high price I paid for the revolver but that's all you can do.

March 12, 2013, 09:56 PM
1. Get a set of gunsmith screwdrivers like these, those, or this.

2. Take the tip that exactly fits the S&W screw slot.

3. Take a small hammer and smack the bit two or three times hard enough to vibrate the threads & old dried oil loose.

4. Put the handle on it and take the screw out.

Never harmed a screw, or had it fail to work in nearly 50 years now.


March 12, 2013, 10:18 PM
And may I add before you do the above; take a hair drier on high heat or a heat gun on low heat (mine has a themostat and I dial in 300 degrees) and heat he Gun up on both sides over top the screw for about 10 minutes. If you have rubber or other plastic or ivory or pearl grips remove first please and opening the cylinder speeds the process. Then useing snorkle tip give a sprat of PB Blaster or other super penetrant oil to the head of screw on the gun sitting on a few smooth rags. Then do as RC describes. ;)

Old Fuff
March 12, 2013, 10:26 PM
Following World War Two, S&W changed the thread pitch on most of the screws. If your revolver is stamped with a model number (10 in this case) current screws will work, athough the one in question was adjusted for length.

If the gun isn't stamped with a model number, post the serial number - which is most likely stamped on the butt.

March 13, 2013, 07:32 AM
After you follow the good advice already provided give S&W a call and order the screws directly from them. You are assured of getting the correct screws and the Bluing will match too. I had the same problem with a 1948 M&P I bought 3 years ago, someone ruined the screw heads and S&W sent me the exact ones I needed and the cost was not high either. (sorry, I don't remember how much but it wasn't bad)

March 13, 2013, 06:11 PM
The two screwdrivers I broke were expensive gunsmith quality tools.

I tried tapping with a hammer.

I tried soaking in penetrating oil for several days.

I tried heat via the hairdrier routine.

Screw was STILL firmly in place. Had to have it drilled. I guess I am not as good as rcmodel who has never had a failure.

March 13, 2013, 09:09 PM
I will follow this great advice, tomorrow when I get in from work. Yeah, I've put some Blaster on it, that stuff is amazing. Also, it's a Model 10, no dash, SN C 443XXX, made in 1960. So, I will contact S&W about a screw if I can't get one from a couple good gunsmiths I know here in S. Ga. Thanks all for your ideas...

March 14, 2013, 09:27 PM
OK, I did get the screw out, thank goodness. I liberally applied the Blaster, used a #89 Chapman bit and did the light but firm tapping. I did this about five times with no movement, however the bit did create a good slot to work with. So, I then borrowed the wife's hair dryer, as suggested, and heated it up pretty good. Repeated the routine and the screw finally broke loose and came out. Now, this screw is exactly like the yoke screw. Is this correct? It starts to bind when reinserted, so I stopped there. The yoke screw does the same thing. So, has this screw been replaced with the wrong screw? It seems like it to me. Thanks for all the input on this..I did remove the sideplate and cleaned/lubed it. Cycles much better. I know, the photo is terrible but couldn't resist puttin' somethin' in here.

Old Fuff
March 15, 2013, 12:28 AM
The yoke screw is similar to the other sideplate screws, but slightly shorter, which is the reason that if you exchange the screws the yoke may bind up.

Take out the other sideplate screw by the rear of the trigger guard and see if it works. The one under the stocks should have a flat, rather then rounded head.

March 15, 2013, 08:55 AM
Good deal. Note there should be a C prefix to the serial. For some reason 95% of people ignore the letters but they are important.

March 15, 2013, 10:07 AM
There is a C prefix, forgot to put it in. I removed this screw from a HB Model 10 I have and they are the same. There is a flat end extension on the screw, the HB screw went in fine, so the threads on the original must be the problem. The blueing is worn off from removing it. So, I'm headed to a shop and can hopefully get another one. Also, this is a 4 screw gun, what does the screw in front of the trigger guard actually do ?

Old Fuff
March 15, 2013, 11:39 AM
Also, this is a 4 screw gun, what does the screw in front of the trigger guard

Remove the screw, and you will find a hole. Inside there is a small coil spring and plunger that puts tension on the cylinder stop. It's a better - but more expensive - system then later and current models that have a nested coil spring spring and no plunger.

March 15, 2013, 04:20 PM
Ended up calling S&W and ordered a screw. Just under nine bucks including shipping, lol. So, can't wait for it to arrive. Now, I'm trying to decide on refinishing or not. A fellow over towards Ft. Benning does a good blueing, so may go that route. The HB I mentioned has it. It really doesn't seem to have been fired much, just not taken care of over the many years. Thanks again to all for the info.

If you enjoyed reading about "Model 10 snubby" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!