Shellacking a Mosin


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Mosin Bubba
March 14, 2013, 08:20 PM
I botched a stain job on a Mosin 91/30 stock. I was able to get most of the stain out by using enough paint thinner to kill almost every brain cell I had, but there is still a dark brown tint left behind. So now I was thinking about going and doing a colored shellac finish over the top of it.

Would this end up looking OK, or would I just be screwing up more? And if it will work out, where can I find some of that Russian red/orange shellac at?

Thank you

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Gottahaveone
March 14, 2013, 09:00 PM
Not sure what it'll end up looking like, but here's all the shellac a man could want :)

http://www.shellac.net/ShellacPricing.html

OilyPablo
March 14, 2013, 09:18 PM
Post some pictures. It may be fine, but just dark. Hard to say.

What look are you trying for?

Mosin Bubba
March 14, 2013, 09:51 PM
I don't have any pictures right now, will try to get some up tomorrow or Saturday if that helps.

I am not really aiming for any particular look; just a gun that looks decent.

akv3g4n
March 14, 2013, 10:09 PM
You could always just pick up a few more stocks from AIM as insurance if you don't like how it turns out.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=X9130Set

Mosin Bubba
March 15, 2013, 12:04 AM
A dumb thought: Would brake cleaner get rid of any of that stain?

akv3g4n
March 15, 2013, 07:54 AM
Not sure about brake cleaner but you could try wood bleach to remove it.

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/catalog/wood-bleach/

Lucifer_Sam
March 15, 2013, 03:55 PM
I'd try a chemical stripper. I've used this to take care of quite a few similar mistakes

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=119

You can get it at Lowes.

brickeyee
March 15, 2013, 05:01 PM
Shellac is one of the least protective finishes out there.

Even a drop of sweat will cause it to blush white if not removed very quickly.

mookiie
March 15, 2013, 08:15 PM
Brickeye - what would suggest to use instead of shellac?

Racinfan83
March 16, 2013, 07:45 AM
Clear polyurethane.... If it is too shiny for you - you can dull it up with 0000 steel wool and it will still protect the wood...

akv3g4n
March 16, 2013, 05:50 PM
Clear polyurethane.... If it is too shiny for you - you can dull it up with 0000 steel wool and it will still protect the wood...

I'd be careful with that. Poly probably won't be able to handle the heat if you shoot it long enough to heat the barrel up any.

funnelcake
March 17, 2013, 06:04 AM
Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher should pull the old stain out, leave it ready for finishing, and is actually good for the wood.

Funnel

mookiie
March 17, 2013, 11:34 AM
I'd be careful with that. Poly probably won't be able to handle the heat if you shoot it long enough to heat the barrel up any.
What would you suggest instead then?

Tolkachi Robotnik
March 17, 2013, 05:31 PM
Mosin stocks seem to be open grain. I suspect mine is made of finest Siberian elm. Mine improved a great deal with boiled linseed oil rubbed in. It took the woolly look out and made it a uniform light brown color. It repels water better, instead of soaking it up.

Cosmoline
March 17, 2013, 05:35 PM
Poly based finishes are horrible on mil surps. I just got through sanding off a tru-oil finish that ruined a nice Lithgow SMLE. Poly finish feels wrong, it looks wrong and it's too slick to hold. Use BLO or tung, hand rubbed in thin coats with fine steel wool polish after each. Shellack is another route but I've never tried it. I'd use the real thing. You can find the chips for sale on art sites.

dastardly-D
March 17, 2013, 05:40 PM
What racinfan83 did worked for me on a type 44 and 1 AK !

brickeyee
March 17, 2013, 07:59 PM
Brickeye - what would suggest to use instead of shellac?
Varnish.

Racinfan83
March 19, 2013, 04:15 PM
What racinfan83 did worked for me on a type 44 and 1 AK !

I have done it on a couple guns in the past and working on another one right now. Never had a problem with it. And the nice thing is that if you DON'T like it - get out your sander and fine paper and take it off....

Racinbob
March 19, 2013, 08:10 PM
I have sprayed lacquer on many projects. I use satin because I prefer low gloss. I've never seen a problem and they have turned out beautiful but I'm interested to hear what everybody thinks.

Tolkachi Robotnik
March 19, 2013, 11:38 PM
Both Mosin stocks I've dealt with are about same tint. They are a sort of brown reddish color. I do not think the boiled linseed oil really changes color much, so if there are streaks of dark they will likely still show. It will just gloss it up a little and even the color out a little.

What boiled linseed oil did on on mine is seal the end grain and prevent water soaking into the stock. It also made it look enough better people complemented on it, as the refinished stocks were not around when I started with the first Mosin. The second one was redone by Russians and they let the final layer run in a few places, they were in hurry. I suspect it might be a near linseed oil type varnish, so that is why they look about the same.

brickeyee
March 20, 2013, 07:39 PM
I do not think the boiled linseed oil really changes color much

As it slowly cures and picks up dirt and grime it turns darker and darker and ends up nearly black.

Mosin Bubba
March 27, 2013, 09:16 PM
I've been pretty busy lately, and am just now getting around to working on the stock again.

Thank you for the suggestion, funnelcake. I found a can of Minwax Antique Refinisher in the garage and applied it liberally. It worked pretty well, and removed a lot of stain. There are some areas around the metal parts and some end grain where it just would not come out - oh well.

Would a garnet shellac work on that stock, or would it be better to try and stain it again?

Lucifer_Sam
March 27, 2013, 09:42 PM
Personally, I'd just give it a few coats of BLO and then top that with the shellac of your choice. It should come out looking pretty nice, shellac is a very attractive finish.

OilyPablo
March 27, 2013, 09:48 PM
That has potential. I second Lucifer's Recommendation.....THAT was hard to write :)

My AK has several coats of spray shellac and it's holding up fine.

morcey2
March 27, 2013, 10:36 PM
I did a shellac over pine-tar finish on an M38 that was in really sad shape. Pine tar was a 50/50 mix of turpentine with tack shop pine tar, used on livestock Shellac was amber bullseye shellac from ACE hardware. Shellac over BLO or tung would work also. Heck, a good tung-oil finish would be really good also. A coat of paste wax over the shellac can enhance the protective powers of the shellac. It's not polyurethane but if it chips, it's trivial to repair it, unlike poly. I don't like poly finishes on any guns. It just doesn't feel right, especially on milsurps.

Matt

ETA: If the finish looks blotchy, that's the pine tar in the grain of the birch. That's how it's supposed to be. :)

Mosin Bubba
March 29, 2013, 12:42 AM
What I think I am going to do is give the gun a coat or two of BLO, and if that looks good, I will continue. If not, I will go for the shellac.

Also, roughly how much shellac flakes would I need for a finish?

rondog
March 29, 2013, 02:49 AM
I don't know, but judging from the looks of my 91/30's finish, if you want an authentic Russian finish you're gonna need some shellac that's been frozen a few times and some filthy nasty socks to apply it with. My M38 was even worse.

OilyPablo
March 29, 2013, 07:00 AM
I would just buy the spray can of shellac. Worked fine on my AK.

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