80 series parts


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Coldfinger
March 20, 2013, 11:34 PM
While I understand what I just don't understand why. I am talking about the 80 series firing pin safety BS. Is it just me or are the 80 series parts a PITA? I have seen kits that replace the 80 series parts. So I guess my question is two part.
How do the kits work?
Doesn't it just replace two small pita parts with other small pita parts?:banghead:

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tarosean
March 21, 2013, 03:49 AM
A true series 80 or Kimber/S&W Schwartz version?


Im no expert as Ive never owned an 80 or other improved safety versions. So someone please correct me if Im dishing out inaccurate info.

I *Think* there are two ways to go about it.

A) Replace the firing pin and spring with an older GI model without a notch and leave all parts alone.
B) Replace all parts which includes removing rear sight for access to plunger and insert a spacer to keep the sear from "walking".

JTQ
March 21, 2013, 11:03 AM
tarosean wrote,
...S&W Schwartz version
Hi, I'm from the language police.

It is Swartz, not Schwartz. I point this out for those that may be doing a search for firing pin safety information, and it was no doubt somebody's name and I'm sure he (and his descendants) would like to have it spelled correctly.

In addition, S&W uses a Mochak firing pin safety. While also activated/deactivated by the grip safety, like the firing pin safety used by Kimber, the parts are different.

1KPerDay
March 21, 2013, 04:23 PM
Is it just me or are the 80 series parts a PITA?
Only when you take them out and try to put them back in. ;)

Depending on what "Kits" you're referring to, they may or may not be desirable. On the Colt type, you replace the frame parts with a spacer, which needs to be examined every so often according to the 1911 experts here. The firing pin plunger and spring are removed from the slide and replacement pin installed.

Me, I just deal with the 80 bits. I don't detail strip my frame that often, and it's doable, if annoying.

jr_roosa
March 21, 2013, 04:32 PM
I have both 70 and 80 1911s. The series 80 does not seem to detract much from the factory trigger pull and break but it does give mine a short first stage to the trigger pull that is a little annoying sometimes. Also it complicates a trigger job somewhat.

To remove the parts you simply pull the plunger and spring out of the slide, and the spacer plate replaces the lever. Technically these "kits" are to assist gunsmiths in trigger jobs so they don't have to futz with the itty bitty parts when they are tuning the sear. Modifying a safety has some potential liability pitfalls.

J.

Drail
March 21, 2013, 06:58 PM
There's 2 points to be considered with the Colt FP safety- Is it functioning as a safety as it was designed? And even more important to me, will the FP safety allow the gun to fire every time the trigger is pulled? If these parts are changed out the timing sequence can be changed just enough that the plunger will not rise completely clear of the firing pin and stop it or not allow it to move enough to fire a cartridge. You can either take it out and shim the pins or use it as Colt intended but you have to learn how to test the gun so you know it will function if you're going to use it. Pull your plunger out and look at it, if there are any little dings on it from firing pin hits then your gun is on the ragged edge of "out of time". Read up on this stuff. There's lots of good books out there.

1911Tuner
March 21, 2013, 07:03 PM
Technically these "kits" are to assist gunsmiths in trigger jobs so they don't have to futz with the itty bitty parts when they are tuning the sear.

This. The frame blank was never intended to be a permanent fixture. The part is soft, and the sear and hammer pin holes will flange after about 2,000-2500 rounds...which can interfere with free sear movement and reset...which can lead to some interesting and potentially dangerous problems.

I strongly advise all to detail strip the frame and dress the flanging with a smooth mill file...and replace it after the 3rd dressing.

Ankeny
March 21, 2013, 08:11 PM
Is it just me or are the 80 series parts a PITA? I have always steered clear of the series 80, until recently. From what I can tell, the series 80 parts work as intended and do not have an appreciable effect on a good trigger job. I think the issue is way over blown.

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