M1 Garand Trigger Housing-Don't think this is good


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ali9cg8
March 22, 2013, 03:43 PM
Good day all,

Pretty sure this is bad. My M1 is a fairly new addition and we've had a handful of decent outings. Did all of the basic OCD cleaning, but when I started the field strip this week because I wanted to check and replace some springs and make sure we were good to go. A spring renovation, if you will. Before I put a round through the gun the first time, I went over it with my regular gunsmith and everything was fine, just needed a new op rod spring. This week, my gunsmith was in Florida so I decided to change the springs myself. All was going well, until step one. The trigger housing would not come out. I worked on it (gently) for an hour before saying heck with it because I didn't want to damage anything.

So, I take the M1 over to the gunsmith at my local range to take a look at it. I should have gotten the red flag when he told me I couldn't come back into his workshop, but I could stand at the door. My usual guy is great and lets me hover and ask all of the stupid questions I want.

Range smith removes the trigger housing and then shows me how he put it back in. No problem, I think everything is good and a line is forming behind me. I know I should have tested it myself. Stupid. But when I went home to work on the gun- that's when the stuck issues occurred again. Went over to my friend's house and we managed to get it out with some finesse. Checked it over and the trigger guard on the right side is pounded and dented and generally in bad shape. This wasn't the previous condition. I can't even get the housing back into the stock, I tried for hours last night.

So this is bad, clearly. My question is; can I try to fill it down slightly to remove some of the burs and see if that will help it seat? Or do I not touch it at all and try and track down a replacement? This is actually the only part of my gun that is not correct, everything else is Springfield, but the housing is Winchester. Shouldn't make a difference, but maybe it was the rifle telling me something....

Okay, that's ridiculous. My M1 woes kept me up all night. Thanks for taking the time to look at this long post and if you have any advice, I would love to hear it.

-ali-

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kyhunter
March 23, 2013, 01:04 AM
If its burred and has edges keeping it from going in (which it shouldnt) then sanding or filing might help. If youre 100% sure about changing it because that one is damaged the trying to machine it or file it to fit might not be ab ad idea. Ive never seen that problem before. Im thinking someone probably pounded it in to begin with and it was just "pressed" in there

clem
March 23, 2013, 01:54 AM
Check both sides for burs and then clean them up. Make sure that the guide on the left side is also bur free.

You can check how it (trigger group & receiver group) fits together with out the stock. This way you can get a good look at everything.

Good luck!

Hacker15E
March 23, 2013, 08:21 AM
Garand trigger group lockup is a function of the stock size and the condition of the locking lugs.

Your bottom of your lugs are flattened, but in most circumstances that would mean your trigger group would have a weak lock-up, and be very easy to open and close. Can you open and close the trigger guard freely when the trigger group is out of the stock?

Since yours is hard to open and close when the receiver and trigger group are fitted in to the stock, how about we get a look at the stock and how that all looks when fitted? A large size or swollen stock would cause that group to be difficult to install, and/or lock and unlock.

Whatever you do, don't file those lugs down to make it fit easier. If you need to, sand the bottom of the stock at the bottom of the magazine well to relieve the pressure.

Orlando
March 23, 2013, 11:08 AM
Dont sand or file anything.
To remove the trigger guard put a dowel or screwdirver shaft etc through the ring in the end of the trigger guard and pull hard .
To install insert the trigger housing then hit the end of the trigger guard with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet
The flat lugs does not have anything to do with your issues it is from normal wear
A tight fit is what most raand owners dream of but dont have
You must have a commercial stock??

dogrunner
March 23, 2013, 11:59 AM
Ali, the post relative to a tight fitting group as Orlando said is absolutely right. I have a CMP service grade special I picked up at the North Store a couple of years ago and it has a very,very tightly fitted trigger group to stock arrangement, the metal being all Springfield, the stock a CMP replacement.....That said, may I suggest that you go onto the CMP web site.......if you want to make that gun correct you can probably easily arrange an even up trade on that Winchester TG for a Springfield.

Reloadron
March 23, 2013, 07:50 PM
Since you have an early forged trigger guard I would do exactly as Orlando said. Place a screwdriver through the hole and pull upward and rearward wrapping your fingers around the screwdriver shank.

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Trigger%20Group%20Removal.png

Once the trigger guard pops lose from the trigger housing just pull up on it, they can be tight but just pull it up and out.

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Trigger%20Group%201.png

It should begin to lift out.

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Trigger%20Group%202.png

Then as was suggested, without the stock replace the trigger group in the receiver group to get a good handle on how it fits and goes together. Less the stock it should drop right in and as mentioned when closing it just pop it with the palm of your hand or rubber mallet.

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Trigger%20Group%203.png

Now finally replace the receiver group back in the stock and guide the trigger group back in. As you begin to close the trigger guard the resistance you meet is a good thing. This last image shows how it will stop at a point and require some force to finally close it.

http://www.bearblain.com/images/Trigger%20Group%204.png

Per Orlando the flats you see on the lugs are normal wear and are not a problem. Some trigger groups can be a little difficult and require a little finesse, just make sure the trigger group is aligned correctly when placing it back in. Practice a little without the stock. A tight fit is what you want.

Ron

ali9cg8
March 23, 2013, 11:21 PM
Thanks all for the great advice.

Update: Re-Researched every part of the trigger housing, serial number checks, all that. The trigger group is the only thing on the rifle that is not officially correct, with the exception of a rebarrel. All SA14 trigger housing with that W.R.A. trigger guard. After looking at endless images on the computer, upon comparison, things were functional, but not cohesive. That's vague, but you know when a part is slightly off the group, just a little off center, the fit a barely detectable space against the housing where it shouldn't? :/

I did take my small file to the top and even it out, and got the huge burr off of the side. With some finesse, it went it. Did about ten tests on the housing- even more on the rifle function. Began the search for a new trigger guard at around 1am last night. Actually ended up finding a very nice correct SA5 which is what by rifle would have been built with. So this was a cloud-silver lining- got to buy more gun stuff- kind of story.

If it were not for you guys calling me back from the dremel, I'm pretty sure there would have been a disaster:-)

Orlando
March 24, 2013, 09:16 AM
It is also a good idea to put a dab of grease on the lugs, keeps them from getting worn/flat

rehorne
March 24, 2013, 02:14 PM
Please, please, please take that dremel tool to the nearest dumpster and throw it in. In the last 35 years I have had more work than I can remember beacuse of them. That and ill fitting screwdrivers and ball peen hammers. I also get guns in a bag, can you put this back together? I tried and can't. The price automaticaly goes up then.

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