Rust Bluing process for entire pistol


PDA






ryan3465
March 27, 2013, 06:06 PM
Hello all,

I have an old H&R style top break revolver that I am refinishing just as a small project. I'm at the stage where I want to refinish the gun, and I am curious about rust bluing. I have been told that rust bluing is far superior to cold blue products, and provides a more durable, long lasting finish. I was wondering, what exactly is the process to rust blue the entire gun, and what rust bluing products have you used in the past that have given good results.

Thanks alot!
Ryan

If you enjoyed reading about "Rust Bluing process for entire pistol" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
rcmodel
March 27, 2013, 08:47 PM
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/classic-rust-blue-prod22820.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/pilkington-classic-american-rust-blue-prod9815.aspx

Basically clean, degrease, apply the solution, boil in distilled water, allow to rust, clean off with de-greased steel wool.

Then do it over & over again & again until you get the desired finish.

rc

Lucifer_Sam
March 27, 2013, 09:26 PM
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/classic-rust-blue-prod22820.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/pilkington-classic-american-rust-blue-prod9815.aspx

Basically clean, degrease, apply the solution, boil in distilled water, allow to rust, clean off with de-greased steel wool.

Then do it over & over again & again until you get the desired finish.

rc

RC flipped "boil in distilled water, allow to rust", its supposed to be the other way round :). But that's pretty much it. It can take 4-14 hours for it to rust properly before boiling. Except for prep its not really alot of work, or very hard, but you need to be careful about grease and it is time consuming. There are quite a few in depth tutorials on it on the net, they're worth reading b/c they show both what people did wrong and right.

Speaking of prep, you want to do that right. Back your sandpaper with wood, don't round corners, try to keep the flats flat, don't use a buffer except maybe on a barrel-- and only if you know how to use it well.

I've used gun goddess rust blue, and it works really well. You have to call Jim Moon (I think) at Half Moon rifle ship for it, and send him a check, he "never got into the credit card thing".

Personally, I'd recommend doing a test run on a knife or something else you'd like to blue before taking the plunge with a gun.

Jim K
March 28, 2013, 01:53 AM
You degrease then boil (to get it warm so the rust "takes"), then apply the solution, boil again, card, boil, apply the solution, boil, card, etc.

The first few cycles, you will be sure all the rust carded off and the job will never be done. And then....

Jim

Lucifer_Sam
March 29, 2013, 12:41 AM
I'd just use an oven or a hair dryer to heat the metal for the acid. I think the very first time I rust blued I decided to boil first, but that was more to make sure the part was thoroughly degreased. They had cooled quite a bit before I got everything dry enough for the solution, and the solution application set up ready.

One thing that might be a good idea for the OP to consider is a mask when carding. I dont think its harmful, but the rust is kind of nasty to breathe... and taste.

If you enjoyed reading about "Rust Bluing process for entire pistol" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!