Advice on removing the port on my S&W & re-crowning?


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GJgo
March 30, 2013, 09:57 PM
Hey all,

I have a S&W 327 Federal that I really enjoy- all except for one thing. In such a short barrel combined with a magnum cartridge full of slow burning powder, the port mostly serves to re-direct un-burnt powder directly into my face. In this photo you can imagine that the port is immediately forward of the front sight.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8603985427_2c756ca7b7_z.jpg

So, I had the idea that I'd cut off the port & re-crown the barrel to make it "normal". There appears to be enough meat that I could do this & not run into the front sight mount. Upon inspecting however I am left with an important question. I can tell that the bore for the sprung pin that captures the front of the ejector rod goes all the way back to the witness hole in the bottom of the barrel. What I cannot tell is if that bore keeps extending towards the front, where it would become exposed if I were to cut & crown. Obviously this would be no good. Does anyone know how far forward this hole generally extends?

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BBBBill
March 30, 2013, 10:25 PM
Easy enough to find out. Use the proper cup tip punch to remove the round headed pin, then take out the crane lock plunger and spring. Measure the hole. Now, just how do you propose to cut and crown that barrel?

Jim Watson
March 31, 2013, 10:29 AM
All S&Ws had the tip of the locking bolt pin showing out the front of the barrel lug until they started making Pythonoid full lugs and swoopy styles like yours. It won't hurt anything if you expose yours by eliminating the muzzle blast amplifier (comp port.)

Old Fuff
March 31, 2013, 11:28 AM
If your revolver has one of Smith & Wesson's 2-piece barrels, cutting it off at the muzzle might have an unintended consequence so far as the nut that holds the sleeve at the front. I would call the company and discuss your project before going any further.

As for the port - I agree it's something I'd rather not have, but the best solution might be to sell what you have and use the proceeds toward buying what you want. Again, add up the $$$$ before going forward.

Jim Watson
March 31, 2013, 11:45 AM
Certainly well to eliminate the two piece barrel before you start cutting.

But the problem with the other conventional wisdom - sell it and get Something Suitable - is that they don't make a .32 RM without a superfluous hole in the barrel.

Unless you are a pretty proficient gunsmith, you might ask Scott at SDM. He does a regular business sawing off 5" S&Ws to 4" for IDPA.
http://sdmfabricating.com/

Old Fuff
March 31, 2013, 01:00 PM
But the problem with the other conventional wisdom - sell it and get Something Suitable - is that they don't make a .32 RM without a superfluous hole in the barrel.

I know, and "suitable" is a matter of opinion, but the .327 RM is equivalent to a .30 M1 Carbine cartridge when fired in a handgun, and making the barrel about 3/8" shorter is not going to do anything about muzzle blast related problems.

What I am saying is that I like the cartridge, but not this particular platform. For those that might, I believe (without actually checking - which could be a big mistake) is that Ruger might offer a .327 version in their SP101 line without any unnecessary modifications on the muzzle end of the barrel, and I would look to see what Taurus might offer.

GJgo
March 31, 2013, 02:29 PM
Thanks all,

I don't yet have a cupped punch so I'd have to procure one. My first thought on the crowning would be to do it like I do all my rifles, First rough cut with a hack saw, second square it up with a file, then finally apply the crown with my PTG crowning tool.

I wasn't aware that some had 2 piece barrels though, so I'll definitely contact S&W first. Well, I knew that their alloy guns do, but I didn't imagine that some stainless guns might..?

Anyway, I like to tinker & customize. It's part of the fun. :)

Old Fuff
March 31, 2013, 08:21 PM
The problem with a hacksaw job is that you seldom get the muzzle truly square. The crown may or may not be, but if the muzzle isn't square accuracy usually suffers.

Using a lathe is much better, but once unscrewed you can't get the barrel to tighten again because now S&W uses crush-fit threads. That was part of the purpose of using 2-piece barrels, because the tube could be tightened without regard to getting the front sight straight because the sight was on the barrel shroud. Anyway that's how the theory is supposed to work.

I also suspect that if your "modification" doesn't work the resale value of your revolver will take a nosedive. I too like to... well... tinker around, but I usually pick less expensive ... victims. ;)

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