rust on shotty after reblueing... what did i do wrong?


April 2, 2013, 10:25 PM
so I had some rust on my mossberg 500 barrell and magazine... I took her all apart and stripped down to bare metal using naval jelly... I used blue wonder kit and reblued... the barrell came out nicely and there is a few tiny patches of rust.. the mag is almost totally covered in rust... i followed their directions completely... cleaned it properly.. it looked sweet.. (I finished this project less than a week ago) I live by Houston (high humidity area) and they said after using developer to let it sit for 1-3 hours and then put on their lube/rust preventer (put on in an hour if you live in high humidity area which i did)... I used a ton of this stuff and it still rusted... what gives? :banghead: what did I possibly do wrong? I need to take it all apart again and start over :banghead: not that I don't like working on guns or anything but I was happy to be done with that project :banghead: any advice???? :confused: thanks, Johnny

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April 2, 2013, 10:54 PM
You forgot to oil it.

April 2, 2013, 11:10 PM
I oiled the crap out of it using the oil they provided for this purpose. I had oil dripping off of it. that's why i'm confused and pissed.

April 3, 2013, 12:38 AM

April 3, 2013, 01:03 AM
Try auto wax.

April 3, 2013, 04:54 AM
Post a more detailed description of what you did.

For example did you rinse the Jelly off then wait a couple days? more than one application of the NJ? any sanding? etc. etc. etc.


April 3, 2013, 07:26 AM
ok I think I figured out what happened... after I took the mossberg apart blued and put back together... I did oil the crap out of both the barrell and mag tube... I also lubed and cleaned the crap out of everthing else... this was my first gun. I bought it when I was 18 many years ago and never took it apart for detailed cleaning... I was so freaked out with how smooth the action was I maybe went a little overboard "function testing" the shotty... I'm used to lube that stays on the metal... I'm guessing I rubbed off the lube by making the "chick-chick" noise too many times and that's why there was so much rust on the mag tube... the barrell still looks good minus a tiny spot...
I took her apart again and using their gun cleaner and lube it looks like the bluing is still good and I don't need to do that again... but I've heard I need to give this stuff a full month for it to "cure" so I'll reapply the lube every few days and in a month use froglube to keep the rust off. thanks, Johnny

April 3, 2013, 10:22 AM
I've seen that more than once with "Cold Blue" Kits! I think its because it just doesnt have the penetration that a "Hot Blue" finish does!

April 3, 2013, 11:40 AM
One problem is the rougher finish on the magazine tube and barrel of those guns which allow them to hold moisture. The best advice I can give when using cold blue formulas is to make darn sure you wash the blued surfaces extra well with hot water and make certain that the metal is completely dry before applying lube. I generally use a moisture displacing lubricant for the first few days (applied daily) and then after all is well I'll apply a grease or higher viscosity lube. Alcohol will also work well to clean the blued surfaces and stop the reaction, but it takes a considerable amount of it when doing larger pieces.

April 3, 2013, 07:42 PM
what kind of alcohol? rubbing alcohol?

April 4, 2013, 01:27 PM
Yes just plain rubbing alcohol. I use the weaker stuff, but it accomplishes the same thing as water neutralizes the acids and stops the rusting process. Alcohol is good because it evaporates quickly just like hot water dries quickly. I prefer to use hot water on rougher metals and larger pieces because it gets the metal good and hot and helps in the drying process. Bluing is artificial rust and if it isn't neutralized properly it continues to rust the metal beyond the intentional pretty colorful blue color and it does it rapidly.

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