Pedersoli flintlock pistol kit


April 11, 2013, 08:34 AM
I had to put my flintlock rifle build on hold recently when Combat Handguns magazine asked me to write an article about building a flintlock pistol from a kit.

I selected this Pedersoli .45 caliber Kentucky pistol kit from Dixie Gun Works. This is a very easy kit that anyone should be able to build.

I'll do a short video series on assembling the kit. In this first installment I'll show you what comes with the kit, and I'll show you how to shape the nose cap and clean up the brass ramrod thimbles...more updates to come.

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Steel Horse Rider
April 11, 2013, 09:50 AM
I built the same Pedersoli kit in percussion a few years ago. There is a lot of wood work to do and some brass finishing and polishing, but I found it to be a very enjoyable project. I finished mine with 7 coats of Tung Oil. It is a great shooter and I will be interested in how yours turns out. For anyone who is contemplating a black powder pistol kit I highly recommend the Pedersoli Kentucky model.

Jim, West PA
April 11, 2013, 11:05 AM
Thanx Mike. I'm gonna enjoy this one. So will my wife Janet. She wanted this very gun for Christmas and we've been patiently waiting for Deer Creek to get them back in stock. (Allthough, thiers is a Traditions ) The Italians have been sendin' them everything but .45 flints :confused:

Anywho, your work in progress should give her some pointers.

When you first chuck the nose cap into the vise, i can see in the background, ( upper left), a wonderful draw file. Where did you buy that ? I NEEED ONE !!!

loose noose
April 11, 2013, 12:08 PM
Jim, I got my draw file from Brownell's about 8 years ago, I've used mine at least 100 times and it is still sharp as a tack.:)

April 11, 2013, 12:27 PM
Did a Kentucky rifle, I thought I would ever get the stock finish where I wanted it. Had a friend reheat treat the frizzen, had a really bad throw of sparks. Afterwards it would throw giant sparks. I always use 4f in the frizzen pan. Fun to shoot the flintlocks.

April 11, 2013, 12:29 PM
Should be a fun series - I've been enjoying the rifle series.

April 11, 2013, 12:31 PM
I got my draw file from Brownells in 2002. Love it, but they recently stopped carrying it.

Jim, West PA
April 11, 2013, 02:38 PM
Thanx Noose and Mike.
I was afraid the answer was gonna be Brownell's.
I know they discontinued them but was hopin there was a different source.

April 11, 2013, 08:23 PM
Would Midway sell them? I know they sell gunsmithing tools

Jim, West PA
April 12, 2013, 06:23 AM
I tried Midway wetpowder. There search is so darned word specific that i couldn't find anything because i don't know exactly what it's called.

April 12, 2013, 11:38 AM

Looking good!

As it happens I have one of the factory finished versions of that gun from Pedersoli that was a Christmas gift a decade or so ago from some ladies.

I am curious to see if you do anything with your lock as to making the trigger pull lighter or smoother.

Am also interested to see how your stock shaping forward of the lock turns out as on mine the line just continues out straight as on your unmodified stock.

Recent searches on Gun Broker lead me to believe that this is a popular design as there are examples that look almost exactly alike but for sight variations from at least one other Italian maker, Spain and even Japan.

I have used the gun mainly as a Grafic Training Aid in firearms or history classes but shoot it on occasion. Most recently was with powder only for new years though.....

where did I put that pillow ticking?


Jim K
April 12, 2013, 11:48 AM
With work, they can be made into very nice guns. In fact, some have shown up on the market as "genuine antiques" just like George Washington carried, or some such nonsense.


April 12, 2013, 06:24 PM
I finished the Pedersoli flintlock pistol kit today. I'll still do a couple of more videos showing the rest of the process, but I thought I'd post a few pictures now.

Once again I demonstrated my ability to take $400 worth of parts and turn them into a gun worth $200. *

On the whole I'm pleased with the pistol, but I did pull some major boners.

First of all, a good sized sliver of wood broke off at the top of the right forearm, and it resisted all efforts to glue it back in place, so I have a decent dip there. (

Then I cut the lips of the ramrod channel pretty low, which I wanted to do, but I didn't realize it would show off the inletting for the entry thimbal, which was done with a router. (

This is the first gun I ever did lock beavertails for...or any molding for that matter. I figured it would be good practice for my rifle build. They certainly didn't come out perfect. I found the walnut very difficult to cut cleanly, compared to maple.

I tried a different outlining technique on each panel. On the lock panel I used a 3mm V gouge and on the side plate panel I used a knife. I had issues either way...ordered some books on carving because I have no clue... (

Still, I'm not totally displeased with the pistol. I'm looking forward to shooting it. (

April 12, 2013, 07:00 PM
Looks good so far. I had some slight problems with mine, mostly it was the trigger guard which is a common problem actually.

Here is the album for mine.
Kentucky Flint Pistol .54 (

April 12, 2013, 09:27 PM
Very nice

April 12, 2013, 11:27 PM
It's called character - no harm in taking credit for it.

I suspect you felt a little rushed because of the deadline and all the other projects in the pipeline. Do you think you'd have done anything differently if you'd had all the time you wanted?

April 13, 2013, 06:08 PM
mykeal, I probably would have done two things differently if I'd had the time. I thought long and hard about doing them anyway, but I didn't have the parts on hand, and I couldn't afford to wait for them.

#1 is the trigger. As it came out of the box the pull was 6 lbs. The problem is that the trigger is pinned to the trigger plate, which is way too low. And the trigger is about an eighth of an inch to far forward of the sear.

If I'd had time, I'd have gotten a trigger with a high bar and I'd have pinned it through the lock mortice. And I'd have placed the trigger's finger pad just a quarter inch forward of the sear. I think I could have gotten a two-pound trigger pull by doing that. But, it would have been a fair amount of work.

#2 is that I'd have installed a barrel tenon on the lower flat and drilled and pinned the barrel to the stock. The screw through the nose cap system Pedersoli uses is a weak way to secure the barrel.

Steel Horse Rider
April 13, 2013, 08:05 PM
I absolutely agree with you on both points Mike. Can't you use your influence on those Italians??? Pinning the barrel to the stock is far superior to the weak forend clamping method used in this pistol. That said, I still can't suppress a smile when I am shooting it.

loose noose
April 13, 2013, 09:04 PM
Mike your wood to metal fit is fantastic, I hear ya on the barrel being secured to the stock. Much better system for sure.:D

April 13, 2013, 11:07 PM
True story, on this forum a few years back there was a broken spring on a lock. Since I had the same Pedersoli product I tested mine and even did some photo documentaries and it was indeed a design flaw. I sent email to the company about the design flaw and I ended up sending the photo's over and the link to the thread, in the end they changed the design to fix the problem.

Having said that you could write to them or even call them and present your information and who knows they may make those changes.

Jim, West PA
April 15, 2013, 11:01 AM
I say this, and hope you take it, with all the respect i intend Mike.
I'm dissapointed. It looks like you did it overnight.
None the less tho. I will still definately use this for a learning tool for Janet when she builds hers. I love watching all manner of guns come together regardless of the outcome or skill level. Each and everyone is a learning experience for all that can see and appreciate it.

In the future. Your problem you had with the sliver breaking off of the forearm...if you use Acraglas to 'glue' the piece back in place. It will cure with the piece 'proud' and you can then file it back into shape. The glas will cure and look like 'grain' in the wood.

Thanx for the build Mike.
Janet and i are both looking forward to the videos.

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