1873 SAA Clone - Sear / Bolt Spring


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il.bill
April 27, 2013, 02:52 PM
I have an Uberti Cattleman SAA Clone in .357 magnum that would no longer keep the cylinder from rotating with the hammer at full cock. The original 'flat' sear / bolt spring was not broken, but it looked like it had a funny twist in the longer leg. Since I could find nothing broken, I bought a new 'wire' Wolff sear / bolt spring and installed it. The bolt now comes up to correctly stop and hold the cylinder - the internet, especially THR, made the repair possible. Thanks to all who take the time to reply to the various posts and questions.
From new the revolver had an occasional 'hitch' in its git-a-long. When cocking and dry firing the action with snap caps about once or twice in twenty or so cycles the hammer would catch and not want to go to full cock. After dropping it back to the firing position the hammer would again fully cock and cycle nicely, until it would catch again in a dozen or two cycles. I disassembled and cleaned and looked for any burs, but the components looked good to me, a first time SAA owner. I had purchased three of the Uberti SAA revolvers, giving the two smooth cocking ones to my son and my brother as Christmas presents, and keeping the occasional sticking action one for myself.
The action on mine now feels better than ever and there have been no cocking 'hitches' in three or four dozen cycles since installing the Wolff wire spring yesterday. Could a slight twist in one leg of the flat spring from the beginning have been the cause of my hesitation when cocking?

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rcmodel
April 27, 2013, 03:19 PM
Yes,

One leg of the spring bears on the trigger which is the sear.
And if it is twisted, cracked, or broken, weird things can happen to the trigger & bolt.

As you found out.

rc

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