What do you use for case prep and 9mm load?


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DSling
April 29, 2013, 03:00 PM
I've been shooting for most of my life and decided to get into reloading. My buddy has taught me using a hornady classic. He got it to make 308 and 30-06. I'm getting mine soon and was curious what you use for your case prep. Also what it's your preferred 9mm loads.

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Certaindeaf
April 29, 2013, 03:22 PM
It's all case prep with the 9. You deprime/size/prime the case, charge and seat the slug.

Walkalong
April 29, 2013, 03:33 PM
Yep, clean it, load it. I don't even clean primer pockets on 9MM. They only get so dirty. It doesn't keep building up.

Certaindeaf
April 29, 2013, 03:34 PM
In other words there's no "case prep" for the 9 or about anything else straightwalled save what I said. Unless there is. Are your primers crimped?

1KPerDay
April 29, 2013, 03:38 PM
Even with crimped primers I have little to no problem decapping and seating with the primer ram on the Lee Classic Turret. Maybe one in 30 will get mashed or refuse to seat, but in general the crimped Nato brass I've found is a non-issue. (WCC 10 mostly).

As noted, reloading for straight-walled handgun rounds is a BREEZE compared to loading for rifle. I enjoy the former and detest the latter.

Certaindeaf
April 29, 2013, 03:49 PM
One important thing with all rounds is neck tension though. It has to be enough or you might not even like it. Just try to joust those loaded rounds into your bench and if they move, that's not going to be good.

gamestalker
April 29, 2013, 04:06 PM
I do it a bit different than almost everyone else. I trim all my brass to SAAMI spec, ream, chamfer, and then load. In my thinking, there wouldn't be a SAAMI spec, if it wasn't necessary. 9mm and other rimless cartridges head space off the mouth, so if a case is longer than SAAMI max you could have problems with cartridges not going into battery. I'm just saying, all brass has SAAMI max length specifications, wonder why?

SAAMI specs. apply to all cases, and are kept to within spec when I load. My books taught me this, and I follow the experts advice in this respect.

GS

Josh45
April 29, 2013, 04:11 PM
Pretty much nothing.
Toss them into the tumbler for a bit if they need it, Then size and deprime them.
Clean out the primer pockets if I want to or feel the need to. Then prime them, charge them and seat the bullets into the case.

That is about it really...As for my 9mm loads, I prefer W-231 for just about anything that I can use it with. Hasn't failed me really.

Jesse Heywood
April 29, 2013, 04:44 PM
Unless you're going for accuracy or competition, don't worry about the case length. Tumble, inspect for neck cracks and load. Then shewt em.

tightgroup tiger
April 29, 2013, 05:24 PM
I shoot for pure accuracy and I do a lot more prep work than most do.

I guess it depends on your shooting level and what your expectations are.

I also stick to SAAMI specs with the length of the cases and separate mine to these specs.

The cases I pull out that are to short I load for my short chambered Keltec PF-9. It shoots them just fine. With my other 9mm pistols the groups start opening up with anything under .740".

It is only a difference ,with me shooting off hand, 3"to a 1"group at 10yds max so it would depend on what your expectations are for you and your pistol. Most people carry 9mms for self defense and that 2"change in group wouldn't make a hill of beans difference with them.

What Jesse Heywood said.

1KPerDay
April 29, 2013, 05:26 PM
It is only a difference ,with me shooting off hand, 3"to a 1"group at 10yds max so it would depend on what your expectations are for you and your pistol.That's a remarkably big improvement for simply trimming cases. Nicely done. :cool:

tightgroup tiger
April 29, 2013, 05:54 PM
Oh, I have to do a lot more than just trim my cases.

Matt Dillon
April 29, 2013, 06:48 PM
Don't you all flare or expand the case mouths? I do, right before I prime them.

1SOW
April 29, 2013, 07:42 PM
Even with crimped primers I have little to no problem decapping and seating with the primer ram on the Lee Classic Turret. Maybe one in 30 will get mashed or refuse to seat, but in general the crimped Nato brass I've found is a non-issue. (WCC 10 mostly).

3% primer loss is not a good thing. I use those 9mm WC cases after hitting them with the Hornady SPP Reamer 'bit' mounted in a drill press. I still have maybe 1 in 300 that requires extra oomph on my LEE turret press. Once in a great number will not seat properly.

Great brass though.

SpentCasing
April 29, 2013, 07:53 PM
1. Deprime/Resize
2.Ultrasonic cleaner bath
3. Load

Lj1941
April 29, 2013, 07:53 PM
I normally tumble first,then decap/size and put them in a separate coffee can.I will prime several hundred and sort by headstamp IF I am loading a seriously warm load.Normal target/plinking loads are not loaded heavy so they don't normally get sorted.I of course run them through the expansion die,then charge a tray of 50.I start out checking the weight on the 1st couple on the scale and then every tenth charge until they are all charged.I check each case with a flashlight to check for empty or heavy
charges. I then seat the bullets for the whole tray after which I randomly measure for OAL. The last step is the Lee FCD after which I put in a box with a tag with the pertinent info.The last step is enter the data in a loose leaf notebook for posterity:)

DSling
April 29, 2013, 09:16 PM
So far I've heard clean and don't clean. Trim and don't trim. It all comes down to how accurate you want to be. Sui what kind of loads do you use

1KPerDay
April 29, 2013, 09:36 PM
3% primer loss is not a good thing.
Yeah, but only about one in 50 cases is a crimped one, sometimes much fewer than that. Plus the primers that get mashed always go off anyway. *shrugs*

1KPerDay
April 29, 2013, 09:44 PM
So far I've heard clean and don't clean. Trim and don't trim. It all comes down to how accurate you want to be. Sui what kind of loads do you use
Definitely clean the brass. But you don't have to clean primer pockets or trim unless you want the utmost consistency. You can easily make rounds that are more accurate than quality factory ammo from mixed brass, no trimming, no primer pocket cleaning.

As for loads? Search the reloading forum, there have been hundreds of threads on it. Everyone has favorites. My outdoor target/competition load is MBC "smallball" over 3.7-3.8 grains of Red Dot. Indoor, 115 berry's plated RN over 4.3-4.4 of Bullseye.

SlowFuse
April 29, 2013, 10:02 PM
Tumble, size/deprime, prime, slight flare (unless it is lead then it gets more flare) drop powder then seat bullet. Sometimes a crimp is added, but usually just enough to smooth out the mouth of the cartridge. I don't trim 9mm usually because they get lost in the weeds before they get enough wear on them.

I use an array of powders from promo to hp-38/w231 to blue dot, depends on the task at hand. Reading a few manuals will get you going in the right direction.

DSling
April 29, 2013, 10:11 PM
I have hornady and layman's but I can't seem to match the components. I've gone on all the powder websites and have gotten their information but I was just trying to see what others use before I commit to something on particular.

-Gadsden-
April 29, 2013, 10:12 PM
The Lyman 49 manual is pretty adamant that you should flare/bell the case mouth BEFORE you prime and not after, but I've seen that a lot of people do it opposite to no ill effect. What gives? Does it matter?

DSling
April 29, 2013, 10:15 PM
From everything I've read with the inconsistencies between what the book says and what people do are two different things. I guess the biggest question is does the side steps or out of order process effect safety?

flipajig
April 29, 2013, 11:28 PM
Like some I have loaded several Thousand 9mm for IDPA and Action pistol matches.
My loading mentor directed me towards cast Boolits for punching paper and the more recurch I've don on them I'm now useing them for hunting rounds also but that is another story.
As for powder I did some home work and selected HP-38 or Win 231 the reason why is you can use it in other calibers also other powder will do the same thing also but for the price of HP-38 you can't beat it.
As for my method for loading
1) Sort the brass not by head stamp but by the ones that I will load and the ones that I can't or won't for one reason or another.
2) Clean by tumbling in walnut meada or if they are real dirty I will use some Citric Acid after the acid I will let them dry and then tumble them in the wall nut Meada.
3) I load all my straight wall pistol rounds with a Lee Classic 4 hole turret press I also have the Lee 4 die carbide set
I do flair the case mouth slightly to make seating the cast Boolit easer also the factory crimp die to close the case mouth back back from the flaring.
As stated above you can load them until the have a problem.
Flip

45lcshooter
April 30, 2013, 06:19 AM
Tumble, deprime/size, prime, powder, seat projectile. Dad does the semi auto pistol cases on his turret press. I do the rifle, and revolver ammo.

SlowFuse
April 30, 2013, 08:08 AM
Gadsden, as far as flaring before priming it wouldn't work with my setup. I use a powder through expanding die so I'm dropping powder while flaring. If I didn't have a primer in the pocket, powder would come out the flash hole.

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