How much do you oil a Rimfire?


May 4, 2013, 01:23 AM
Hey all, I'm wondering how much you're supposed to oil a Marlin semi auto's action for it to cycle just about anything?

Also, what kind of lube do you use, and how often and what process do you use to clean it?


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May 4, 2013, 01:25 AM
I like using a low viscosity oil such as Remoil on all of my rimfires

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May 4, 2013, 01:29 AM
Do you use the aerosol can?

If so, how do you coat the area?

I like to use it like a can of spray paint: About a 3/4 of a foot away from what I'm coating, with side to side motions. Maybe one or two swipes across whatever I'm trying to oil up.

May 4, 2013, 02:00 AM
I just field strip it, clean all metal parts wiping them down. Repeatedly wipe down with lube while putting it together and after. Use a lube like slick evil or clp.

May 4, 2013, 02:02 AM
I use Hornady One Shot case lube sparingly on semis. With it, they run a very long time before malfunctions from being dirty and even then the fouling will just brush off.

May 4, 2013, 02:22 AM
In my admittedly brief 4 years of shooting guns I've found that semi auto firearms puff a surprising amount of fouling gunk into the action. And .22LR rimfire guns are the worst of the lot for this fouling issue. So oiling them with a wet looking coat of oil is simply a recipe for black goop in short order. As a result of this I like to use a light film of good oil. A light film seems to hold and contain less of the fouling particles.

I've heard a lot of good things about a dry film lubricant and protectorant called EEZOX. So far I've had no luck finding any locally. So it looks like I'm going to have to order some from online.

Shooting a wider variety of ammo isn't oil related in any event. Instead it's about the recoil spring being tuned to work with the mass of the slide to work correctly widest possible variety of ammo. Being oiled enough to avoid stickiness is a factor of course but the amount of oil needed is not much at all.

May 4, 2013, 02:27 AM

Oily fouling gunk that jams up the works is exactly why I use One Shot. It goes on wet and dries in about a minute.

May 4, 2013, 04:28 AM
I use clp for the same reason. It dries and leaves behind all that slippery PTFE behind. Remoil does too but seems to be a bit runier. Good for wicking into trigger pins and other lockwork. When I use Remoil I use the bottle type and drip it on. I spray clp.

May 4, 2013, 08:02 AM
i oil all my guns more or less the same way.....

pull the bolt.....dip my finger in some 10w-30.....rub the bolt down......redip finger with 10w-30.....rub the inside of the receiver down.........wipe hands off with rag, rub exterior of gun down with the oily rag.

Sav .250
May 4, 2013, 08:27 AM
Try U-Tube for a tutorial on the subject. There is one for the Marlin 60. No mater the rifle the message is the same.

May 4, 2013, 08:44 AM
When it gets sluggish, clean and oil. Reasonably clean, and a reasonable amount of oil, not running off everywhere.

May 4, 2013, 08:51 AM
I use something light like Amsoil MP (NOT HD MP)

May 4, 2013, 10:05 AM
I use Hornady One Shot case lube sparingly on semis. With it, they run a very long time before malfunctions from being dirty and even then the fouling will just brush off.
Very interesting idea.

I use Break Free CLP

Sidenonte: Speaking of gunk buildup, 28 years ago while my friend was shooting my admittedly dirty Glennfield Marlin 60. the stock area burst into flames from the residual powder inside. The flame didn't last long but the puff of smoke and such was enough to, shall we say, grab our attention. Never happened since as the guns never go that long without a clean.

Carl N. Brown
May 4, 2013, 10:12 AM
When I detail clean my Model 60 I leave dry the front area of the bolt and breech exposed to gas blowback (after cleaning with solvent). I swab other areas of the bolt, receiver and action sideplates that show wear marks with a q-tip and lube.

May 4, 2013, 10:51 AM
I am not afraid to admit that this old dog is learning new tricks from this thread.

May 4, 2013, 11:36 AM
22 is a dirty ammo. The filth collects in the oil. If i oil to much, it builds up and causes malfunctions. This is the case with my 22's (Mod60 and a buckmark). The S&W 15-22 isn't as bad.

After cleaning all of the grime off, i oil sparingly. I add a drop of CLP to each important area. Enough to allow proper function without running dry.

Because of the filthy ammo, i clean the actions of my 22's more often, just about after every shoot. it is well worth it.

The bore is cleaned as needed.

I clean centerfires much less often.

May 4, 2013, 05:45 PM
Thanks for all the information folks!

I've heard alot of good things about CLP so I think I'll try grabbing some on my next trip into town!

May 4, 2013, 05:49 PM
I just use remoil and blast the chamber and let it drip . Wipe clean the gun and good to go.

May 4, 2013, 06:18 PM
What is evident with 22 LR blowbacks is that the cartridge is completely extracted while there is residual pressure in the barrel. Given that rimfire cartridges and bullets are coated in wax, and this wax vaporizes under the pressures and temperatures of combustion, the gas that vents from the open chamber has a lot of gaseous wax particles.

That wax condenses out on the metal of the mechanism. Some 22 LR’s can run a long time between cleaning but all of them will require a good clean to wipe out the wax and the gunpowder particles.

In warm weather I use a light oil, Remoil is an excellent choice, I use mostly synthetic 10W or 5W-30 Mobil one. Just a wipe with an oily patch is necessary. I clean my guns every time before I put them away. This is not necessary but it is a habit of mine, I don’t like putting away a dirty gun. My gun club has a regular pistol match in December, there I have found that wiping off all traces of oil and shooting a clean, dry Ruger MkII, is necessary to reduce malfunctions. In the cold weather of December oils are sluggish to start with and the addition of condensed wax has caused malfunctions.

Cee Zee
May 5, 2013, 07:17 PM
About the worst thing you can do to a rimfire rifle is to put too much oil on the action and that goes double for a semi-auto rimfire. I bought a brand new 60 back in 1989. 11 years later I cleaned the action because it was just starting to have feeding issues. I applied ZERO oil to the action. It was another 6 years before I again cleaned the action. Again ZERO oil. I've put about 150,000 rounds through that rifle and it's never had a drop of oil left on it. I do admit that after 20 years I did use some CLP to clean the action but I immediately blew out all oil and residue with an air hose right after cleaning the pivot points and moving parts. It got to the point where I couldn't get it working right just by cleaning it with a brush so I finally used a cleaning agent to get the gunk out of the pivot points especially. I really don't think I would have had to do that if I hadn't shot about 200 rounds of Remington Thunderduds through that rifle. That stuff is insanely dirty. Now it's back to being cleaned with a brush again with zero oil. I also found one spot that was starting to show some metal to metal wear. I used dry lube on that. It wasn't a spot that would collect powder residue and cause a problem.

That rifle still works like brand new. I've still never put any lubricating oil on the action whatsoever. It doesn't have metal to metal wear. And it doesn't have any accuracy issues either. It will work fine with almost all ammo too.

Oil is the enemy of your action. If it isn't wearing visibly don't do anything. Use dry lube which will stay where you put it and won't collect residue that will build up and harden causing problems with the cycling of the action.

May 7, 2013, 07:03 AM
I Clean My 2A About Every 300 Rounds Or So, My 17 Hmr About Every 2, I Use FrogLube Paste, And I Let It Soak In The Metal Then Wipe The Rest Off Its Good Stuff And I Rarely Have A Misfire.

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