Savage barrel swap question?


PDA






mastiffhound
June 18, 2013, 04:22 AM
I will be doing a barrel swap on an old Savage 110. It's currently a .30-06 with a thinner barrel than my 1950's Stevens Buckhorn .22LR. It gets 3 round groups around 2 to 3 inches. 5 shots are even worse. I have 3 bad discs so I'm more sensitive to recoil than I was in my younger days. My .30-06, .300 Win Mag and 3 1/2 inch magnum shotshell days are long behind me. I got a heavier stock and I've now got a heavy varmint contour barrel in .308 Win. Dad's heavy barreled .308 varmint/tactical stocked Savage isn't bad to shoot at all so I'm going that route also.

My question is: Do I need to heat the barrel nut to remove it on my older pre accutrigger Savage? I don't want to weaken the metal. I do have the action and barrel nut wrench. I've also got a good vice for clamping it all down. This Savage was made in the 70's, so that action, barrel, and nut have spent enough time together to build up a good amount of rust and/or crud. Being an ex-mechanic I've learned the joy of heating up things to make them easier to remove, I just want to make sure I won't hurt anything. As usual thank you for all the help!

If you enjoyed reading about "Savage barrel swap question?" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
Jim Watson
June 18, 2013, 10:05 AM
Heating the nut enough to help break it free will not "weaken the metal."
That means not red hot or enough to change the color.

Or set it up and whack the nut wrench with a hammer; impact and vibration will knock it loose where steady pressure will not.

jimmyraythomason
June 18, 2013, 10:07 AM
Heating the barrel nut should not be necessary(and in my view,should not be done). The nut is going to be TIGHT so let it soak with a good penetrating oil! A couple of things I learned about this procedure is to clamp BOTH barrel and receiver down and strike the barrel nut wrench with a solid piece of wood not a hammer. A hammer will damage the nut wrench if the nut doesn't give right away.

BBBBill
June 18, 2013, 10:14 AM
Kroil. Let it soak for at least 24 hours.

Clark
June 19, 2013, 03:09 AM
I only have two Sav 110s, a 30-06 and a .223.
They are both old ones.
The nut came off easily on both.

Gotta buy the wrench.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/288765/wheeler-engineering-barrel-nut-wrench-savage-10-110
http://www.opticsplanet.com/wheeler-savage-barrel-wrench-123038.html
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/barrel-blanks-tools/rebarreling-tools/barrel-nut-tools/savage-barrel-nut-wrench-prod7388.aspx

mastiffhound
June 20, 2013, 03:04 AM
Clark said,

I only have two Sav 110s, a 30-06 and a .223.
They are both old ones.
The nut came off easily on both.




I stated that I have the action and barrel nut wrench, did you also use the action wrench? Did you just clamp the barrel down and use the barrel nut wrench?

Clark
June 20, 2013, 01:06 PM
In 2006 I made a portable barrel vise that could work as an action wrench.
I made it for and gave it and the nut wrench away to a hunting buddy so he could switch barrel.

In 2013 I bought another Sav 110 so I bought another nut wrench and just put the barrel in my barrel vise.

I have made another round action vise for Rem 700s, and I may not use the barrel nut. I could just cut a shoulder and deal with the Sav 110 like a Rem 700.

I think the same fat Holland recoil lugs will fit. I can drill the receiver for the recoil lug pin.

If you enjoyed reading about "Savage barrel swap question?" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!