Mosin Nagant Cleaning Question


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Hanzo581
July 13, 2013, 09:38 PM
Took my hex receiver 91/30 out to the range today and absolutely loved shooting it. Even with surplus ammo I was really impressed with its accuracy (only got out to 100yrds this time.

Anywho...got home and started cleaning it the same way I do all my guns. Hoppes #9 through the barrel a bunch of times on a swatch. Then at the end a swatch with Rem Oil. The cloth turned green after it went through the barrel....I'll be honest I am new to corrosive ammo, but was this some sort of reaction?

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mgkdrgn
July 13, 2013, 09:42 PM
Took my hex receiver 91/30 out to the range today and absolutely loved shooting it. Even with surplus ammo I was really impressed with its accuracy (only got out to 100yrds this time.

Anywho...got home and started cleaning it the same way I do all my guns. Hoppes #9 through the barrel a bunch of times on a swatch. Then at the end a swatch with Rem Oil. The cloth turned green after it went through the barrel....I'll be honest I am new to corrosive ammo, but was this some sort of reaction?
yep

google "corrosive ammo cleaning"

it's not hard, but it is necessary

Hanzo581
July 13, 2013, 09:49 PM
Right, I guess my question is, does that mean the Hoppes #9 didn't clean the barrel properly if the final oil swatch turned green? Should I just put warm water down the barrel instead?

rcmodel
July 13, 2013, 09:55 PM
Green is jacket fouling (copper) the Hoppe's was in the process of removing.

rc

morcey2
July 13, 2013, 09:56 PM
Right, I guess my question is, does that mean the Hoppes #9 didn't clean the barrel properly if the final oil swatch turned green? Should I just put warm water down the barrel instead?
It's not "instead", it's "along-with". Use the hot water to get rid of the corrosive salts, then clean as normal.

Matt

Hanzo581
July 13, 2013, 09:58 PM
Ok, I think I got it now. So the Hoppes won't get rid of the corrosive salts, use water for that then clean as normal. I just figured the Hoppes would have taken care of it.

DPris
July 13, 2013, 10:00 PM
The use of corrosive surplus ammunition requires a different cleaning process.
You have to neutralize the salts left in the bore & Hoppe's 9 won't do that.
Rem Oil isn't the best way to go for a preservative afterward, either.

There are several methods people use, running from hot water down the bore to Windex.

I use Windex with vinegar on mine, works great.

After that, I occasionally use a copper solvent followed by Break Free.

Minimum I do is Windex followed by Break Free.

Green on patches means there's still copper fouling in the bore.
Denis

Uncle Grinch
July 13, 2013, 10:02 PM
Don't forget to "wash down" the bolt assembly or you will be seeing rust very soon.

Hanzo581
July 13, 2013, 10:03 PM
I have CLP also, so that would be better than Rem Oil as the final rust barrier?

DPris
July 13, 2013, 10:07 PM
Yes.
Rem Oil has turned out to not be a particularly good rust preventer.
Denis

Hanzo581
July 13, 2013, 10:16 PM
Ok, thanks for the help all, I've never had any issues with cleaning, rust or anything in the past and this is my first experience with surplus weapons and ammo, pardon my ignorance.

DPris
July 13, 2013, 10:51 PM
No need for any pardons, if you're new to corrosive ammunition you have to learn somewhere. :)
Denis

caribou
July 13, 2013, 11:50 PM
Rather than warm water, used near boiling water to dissolve and flush the salts that cause corrosion out, then the hoppes , ect and get the copper/lead out.

The hot water will heat the metal and dry itself, very quickly, so you don't have rusting issues with residual water.

Very good, Carry on!

BCRider
July 14, 2013, 08:19 PM
If you use the boiling or very hot water with enough to warm the barrel to where you can barely hold it then stand it muzzle down with an air gap. The heat of the barrel will produce a chimney effect to aid in drying the bore moisture. Otherwise it could easily cool down with the last of the water still in the bore.

I don't bother with the boiling water. Instead I use a bore mop soaked in water then a couple of drying patches then go straight to the CLP or copper solvents depending on how nutzy I want to get.

I like the idea of the hot water thing though. One day I'll make up a cartridge casing that has a plastic hose line attachment soldered into the head so I can just insert in the chamber and have it hooked up to my hot water tap.

Murphy4570
July 15, 2013, 02:51 AM
I just pour water down the barrel, then wipe a patch wetted with hoppes, then a few dry patches till it comes out mostly clean. Good enough for me. Haven't had any rust issues on my Mosins yet.

GRIZ22
July 15, 2013, 03:08 AM
Hoppes No 9 will dissolve corrosive salts. Water is the best though.

There is no magic in using Windex other than its mostly water.

GRIZ22
July 15, 2013, 03:16 AM
I use caribou's cleaning regimen.

DPris
July 15, 2013, 03:57 AM
There are many different versions of fluids & methods that people use.
I make no claims that mine is the only one, or the best one, to use.
I just mention it as one that works.

I use Windex with vinegar because it was recommended to me many years ago, it's more convenient than messing with hot water, and it works.
I spray a small amount on a patch & run several through till the black lessens, then use a couple dry patches to get the liquid out, then either use a copper solvent followed by Break Free or just the Break Free, depending on how much I've shot.

Spray the Windex on a bigger patch & clean other parts like the bolt & so on, followed by dry patch, followed by Break Free patch.

No signs of rust on the four I've done it to.
No magic.
Just easy & my preferred method. :)


If it's been a high round count, I may use a brush, too.
Denis

Centurian22
July 15, 2013, 04:47 AM
My Mosin cleaning method is windex patches, dry patch, hoppes no 9, brush, dry patches (repeat if needed), hoppes oil. Also as said be sure to do a good cleaning of the bolt, especially the bolt face. I forgot that once and it wasn't pretty.

Davek1977
July 15, 2013, 07:12 AM
I've used Hoppes to clean my Norinco SKS for years, including the period of time all I shot was corrosive Chi-com ammo. Also, note, I live in South Dakota, not exactly known for its low humidity. I've never had rust issues of any kind, and the bore is still pristine. Maybe other people have had different experiences, but Hoppes #9 has never failed me when shooting corrosive ammo thus far (roughly 20 years of shooting my SKS)

morcey2
July 15, 2013, 10:32 AM
I've used Hoppes to clean my Norinco SKS for years, including the period of time all I shot was corrosive Chi-com ammo. Also, note, I live in South Dakota, not exactly known for its low humidity. I've never had rust issues of any kind, and the bore is still pristine. Maybe other people have had different experiences, but Hoppes #9 has never failed me when shooting corrosive ammo thus far (roughly 20 years of shooting my SKS)
Norinco SKS's had chromed bores, so that's cheating. ;)

GunnyUSMC
July 15, 2013, 04:42 PM
Well I have been shooting surplus ammo for almost 30 years and have never had a problem with rust. I also have 300 plus weapons in my collection and 2/3 of them are old surplus guns.
The only thing you have to worry about is corrosive salts. Once you remove the corrosive salts, you can clean your rifle just like any other.
I know that some people go to the extreme when it comes to cleaning, but it's really not needed.
There is no need for hot water, soap, windex or any other super cleaners.
WATER is all that is needed to remove the corrosive salts.
That's right, just good old water.
Here is what you need to do.
Put a few patches in a Zip Loc bag and add some WATER. Take it to the range with you and a cleaning rod. Once you are through shooting, take a patch from the bag, squeeze out the extra water and punch the bore. Do this twice. Next punch the bore with a dry patch. Then punch the bore with an oil patch. I like to use CLP, but as long as it a good gun oil it will do fine.
Next wipe off the bolt face with a wet patch, then a dry patch, then and oil patch.

Next pack up your things and go home. There is no need to rush, you gun will not start to rust anytime soon. You can even stop off for a bite to eat if your hungry.

Now the only reason you need to worry about the bolt is if you had a split case or blown primer. If so you only have to wipe it down with one of the wet patches, dry it off and oil it. It would also be smart to take the bolt down for a good cleaning if you got a lot of blow back.

Remember these old guns did not live the easy life back in the day and that a solider was able to keep it clean and rust free while in the field.

Here is something you can do if your out of water but have some beer on hand. Use the beer in place of the water.
Just remember that in just about every way that someone has to clean after shooting surplus ammo there is water. Water is what removes the corrosive salts.

CnRnut
July 16, 2013, 06:30 PM
I bring a few extra bottles of water with me to the range and flush them when the bores are still hot. Just watch your face when you pour....

GunnyUSMC
July 18, 2013, 01:15 PM
There is really no need to flush, just use wet patches.

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