[Josey]

I picked up a leather (cow or horse hide) holster care tip today. A leathermaker said to rub OLIVE OIL into the leather holster. He swears by it. He showed me how to apply and rub it in. He says it keeps sweat, salt, body oil, soil, moisture and other nasty things from affecting the leather. Anybody else heard this? He also said NOT to use Neatsfoot compound on leather as it promotes cracking.

[Preacherman]

Don't forget the red wine vinegar on the highlights... :D

[azrael]

ahhh...hmmmm....that's a new one on me...I just recommend Kiwi Neutral to my customers...


PRCCW can prolly answer this one better than I he, has been in the business longer than I...

But I have never heard of Olive oil being used that way...

[Amish_Bill]

The High Noon Holster FAQ page says 17 Should I oil my holster?

Never use anything like saddle soap or mink oil. It will make your holster too soft. We oil them as part of the manufacturing process and that should be enough for the life of the holster.
Can I assume that Olive Oil will have a different effect on it?

... Of course, part of the retention on his holsters is the way they are form-fitted to your specific handgun. Maybe that's a key difference?

[azrael]

NEVER USE NEATSFOOT OIL ON A HOLSTER...it softens it and it looses it ability to properly retain the weapon..

I hate neatsfoot oil:cuss:

[Detritus]

Josey, Olive sqeezins, is probably not THAT far off of what's in the cans folks order along with their gunleather from San Pedro Saddlery.....

so yes I've heard the "use olive oil (or other natural THICK oil) not neatsfoot oil" before.

have also heard that, "animal rendered" oils (neatsfoot, mink etc) tend not to be good for leather in the long run, something about the animal fat eventually coming out of the oil solution as it dries out, clogging the leather's pores, and then the fat becomes hard. with obvious effects...

basics i've read is that what you need in a "leather dressing" is a good thick, emollient, that will not only make the leather more supple WITHOUT breaking it down or reacting to it, but that will STAY THERE awhile and not just evaporate out in a week or a month.

Olive oil fills those needs rather well...

[Detritus]

Almost forgot to add something i overheard a local (the the central NC area where i was at the time) holstermarker say of neatsfoot oil....

"that $*&% is, was, and always shall be fit only to treat hoof ailments in cattle, i catch you putting that stuff on any of MY goods. i'll beat the livin......:cuss: "

clear nuf??


I always DID like the way that man had with words :D

[spooky1]

I've never used it on a holster, but I have shined several pairs of shoes with it in the past.

[arinvolvo]

The only oil my holsters get are the ones that leak off of me when it is 115 here in vegas.

[sm]

I have heard of Olive oil before, never did it though.
The other stuff that was recommended was Sno Seal and the Lexal products. Never used anything on holsters except blood . sweat, mud , snow...

I have used the Lexal cleaner and preservative,then did the Sno- Seal on my Danner boots...these are 25 or so yrs old ,still in good shape.

I don't do anything to holsters, except lose them, or ruin them by taking a swim with them on...the guns hold up...holsters don't seem to take to falling in canoeing, floods, blowing up beaver dams, or hiding from wasps...:p

Sno seal is supposed to be bees wax. I have used this a bunch for lubricating tools,burs, drills.., and yea it works for sewing,making needle and thread easier to pass through material...supposedly being a natural product will not break down leather...

So my holsters have "character"....

[Amish_Bill]

I was told to use shoe polish to touch up scuffs and eep the leather in good shape. That stuff's basically wax, right?

[mete]

Things like olive oil will become rancid. Silicone products have been used for leather for 50 years that will do a good job. Or buy leather treatment from the holster makers.

[Clean97GTI]

The only oil my holsters get are the ones that leak off of me when it is 115 here in vegas.

Gawd, ain't it the truth. Thus far, I am enjoying these little jumps up to the 80's. Makes for great riding weather!
Neatsfoot oil would be bad for a holster. It softens leather very well, and while this is good for a baseball glove, it is most certainly a bad idea for something designed to hold your gun securely. It smells funky too. I wonder how some of the car care products would work. Meguiars leather care stuff works like a champ on some of my shoes.

[Old Fuff]

Years ago holster makers would oil their products. What oil they used depended on what they thought was best. The net effect of oil is to soften the leather, and to some degree make it water resistant.

When the practice of molding the leather to the gun as a retaining device came into practice, oiling the leather went out, because softening the leather would defeat the purpose of molding. Most of the makers of molded holsters recommend wax, not oil as a preservative.

I never use any kind of oil on a holster that wasn't oiled by the maker in the first place, and most of the leather holsters made today are not oiled.

I use wax products made for leather (such as neutral shoe polish) on molded holsters as well as most others. If in doubt I ask the manufacture (if they are still in business) for recommendations.

[sm]

Old Fuff
or anyone else...

I never put anything on a holster because as you stated - backe when the holster maker oiled/treated and not wanting to goof up what he had done I left it alone.

Then comes the molded holsters...I leave them alone.

Still curious if Sno Seal [ bees wax] being a wax would hurt. My hesitation to use anything comes from being in a business for 35 yrs and advising , suggesting,or answering questions to folks and my reply often was "Don't do that and explain why" or Yes do that explain why. Humm folks many times did the opposite , and things messed up. Sooo..when on the other side of counter I pay attention and err on side of caution.

Remember when one could order a holster from S&W? I had quite a few. I never did anything except use a dry toothbrush to remove mud and such. Most have since been traded away and such, but the one I bought In '82 for a 3" RB K frame finally died [ fell apart] I don't think the "not doing anything" is what killed it...it did not really appreciate taking a swim last summer ... If one ever needs to find a bar ditch in a resevoir...I got a Doctorate degree in this...call me...hip boots are a buch easier to get out of than chest waders in case one wanted to know...:p

[Old Fuff]

SM:

I'm a holster person. I buy holsters to use, and when I get the opportunity I buy old holsters (S.D. Myers, Geo. Lawrence, H.H. Heiser, etc) to add to my collection of holsters, some of which go back to post-Civil War years. I also have some of these early maker’s catalogs. Last but not least I've made a few for myself and a few friends. No way am I in the business, but sometimes I get stuck finding something for an older gun.

Among my friends, both past and present, were men like Chick Gaylord (who I think invented the concept of holsters made of medium-weight leather and molded to the outline of the gun) and John Bianchi, who shouldn't need any introduction here. Both they and others taught me a lot.

There are many ways hides are tanned and finished during the holster manufacturing process. All holsters, and for that matter all leather products, require care – but the specifics of that care depend on what kind of leather the product was made from, how it was finished, and what it’s intended too do.

The best source of information about how a particular holster should be cared for is that holster’s maker – if they are still around. They will know exactly what kind of leather their product(s) were made from and how they were finished. Never hesitate to ask them for advice.

Older holsters, made by companies long gone present a problem, but sometimes their original catalogs will contain information about the best care. Otherwise I follow my rule of, “never oil it if it wasn’t originally oiled.”

Very few, if any of today’s holsters still use oil – I can’t think of any of the big ones that do, although some of those making reproductions of “old west” leather might.

I think that most modern makers would recommend that a dirty holster be cleaned with a product intended to be a cleaner, and then waxed. Others might recommend a cleaner, but no waxing. I have cleaned dirty holsters with soapsuds. Pour some dishwashing soap into warm water, stir up lots of suds, soak the suds (not the water underneath) into a sponge, and wipe the leather’s surface. Don’t soak any more water into the leather then is necessary. Let dry and then finish with wax, or whatever you choose. Commercial cleaners are undoubtedly better then soap suds.

Preserving antique leather is an entirely different subject, which I won’t cover here.

Edited to add: If you are going to carry a handgun in an environment where it may be soaked with water - lake, rainstorm, etc - and you can foresee it coming, avail yourself of one of those holsters made from synthetics by Uncle Mike, Bianchi International, Safariland, etc. - it will pay off in the end. If a leather holster does get wet be sure it is dried slowly and without excessive heat.

[sm]

Old Fuff,

Thanks, for the info, I respect your input and experince. I have used the Bianchi , Galco, High Noon, Alessi, Milt Sparks...etc. Holster makers advised as you have described , a bit of difference between the makers. I did as they suggested ( granted minimal) because most agreed more holsters are ruined from " overcleaning" ...then added "using non recommended products and practices". Sounds familar for a bunch of other stuff - huh?

Yes I was told horsehide is not condusive to taking a swim..."send it in boy and lessee what ya got". :D

So on those occaissons when a "problem" occurred the holster makers said I was probably better off with minimal messing with it. They had prepped the leather with conditions in mind. Suggestions ,like using the other holster to let the one sweated on dry out in room temp,... like shoes, alternate days.

Yeah a few made mention of non leather holters they inventoried as well...kinda laughing when they said it...well...I bought this stuff to use, can't help it if I'm partial to leather, wood and blue. Holster folks are good people...horeshide was taken care of promptly with a note " I learn from feedback from customers, and real world applications...you are not the first nor will you be the last ..."

[Old Fuff]

Well I did say ...

"If you are going to carry a handgun in an environment where it may be soaked with water - lake, rainstorm, etc - and you can FORSEE it coming ..."

I prefer leather too under most circumstances, and only turn to synthethics when I anticipate environmental difficulty. Course there have been times I underestimated Mother Nature, and years ago we didn't have the options that are available now. Most modern leather will survive an occasional dunking or rainstorm, provided they are dried out slowly and treated when dry. However you will loose some (or all) of the molding around the gun. This will only be a big issue if the gun fits so badly afterward that it might fall out and be lost. A good field holster will have a strap or flap to prevent that.

[sm]

:D
Gotcha

Field holsters with flaps...I did "Foresee" a potenial problem shooting rapids in a canoe...yep had a flap holster, had it closed too...dunno who stuck a log in my way ( I swear it wasn't there a second before)...Them laynards may look stupid, and all but they work...it did that day...1911s don't float...trust me...I tested two more times that day to make sure. :D

I also learned why the calvary did what they did...flap holsters and laynards good if a horse is a bit canterous on mountain trails with snakes...

My behavior and outings might explain why my stuff doesn't have scratches...got "character" tho'. ;)

[Old Fuff]

Amend ...

[sturmruger]

I have never put anything but water on my holsters. I have bought a couple of holsters that weren't exactly the right shape for the gun that I wanted to use them with. I would wet down the area that I wanted to stretch and then leave the gung in holster for few days. After that the gun fit they way I liked, and I didn't try anymore water treatments. It seemed to work great and all my holster fit perfectly even for guns that they might not have been designed for.


As for continuing care I have not found that they need anything extra. I am not able to carry everyday so my holsters are not used as often as many of use yours.

[TBeck]

A federal agent tried to test me once. I ate his holster with some fava beans, and a nice Chianti. :D

[4v50 Gary]

So, TBeck, were you sworn into the FBI afterwards?;)

[TBeck]

No, but lemme tell ya, horsehide is tough! Cowhide is much easier on the old GI tract. :barf:

I don't even want to think about Kydex!

[Shaughn Leayme]

I tried the following on leather holsters and the results were less than impressive...

Swamp water (almost qualified as a life form),

Fresh water (the boat had a problem staying afloat) ,

Salt water (if you think plain water is bad),

Salt water with petroleum and other contaminents (please don't light a match) Had a refueling line spring a leak at the exact time I was walking by.

Hydraulic fluid from a ruptured line on a crane and then having to lay in a small lake of it as we tried to put a temporary patch on the line so that we could move it out of the lake of hydraulic fluid to fix it properly.

I could go on..

You would think after all this that I would buy a Kydex or a synthetic type material holster to carry my pistol with...

The conclusion I came to was while they were good, it just wasn't leather.

I did go to custom holsters that are made out of fairly heavy leather, to try and overcome the climatic conditions that I sometimes work and or play in.

The maker actually recommends saddle soap for clean up, otherwise I might use a damp cloth and a soft brush.

Listen to the man/company that made your holster, they are the best source.

[Gordon]

Lesseee: Sno Seal makes a holster sticky and gooey:( prolly aids retension though), Armorall cleaner cleans dirty leather well without the fuss of Lexol cleaner and then conditioner(too soft but works on belts) . I wouldn't want any oil that turns rancid either. Some dry old holsters need some Lexol conditioner type of oiling. The Silicone treatments work well on clean leather and keep them from softening around water. High quality shoe polish of the appropriate color is hard to beat but can soften in desert temps. Sharkskin of course is largely unaffected by water. Capt Hardy of Beverly Hills Calif made some of the best holsters I've seen. I have a Hardy-Cooper shoulder rig for 1911's and a belt rig for 6" N frames and one for 4 3/4" SAA 's . I wear them on old Lawrence belts. I haven't seen an old holster earlier than 1880's I liked yet. ;)

[PCRCCW]

As a maker of gun leather products.....Id recommend the following and Im not the only one doing it......for a couple of reasons. This is for molded style holsters.......
Cowboy holster makers have a slightly different take on things.....

Silicone......dont use it. Unless its in its pure form, it "outgases" and this will dry your leather out over time. Many people think its great to use but silicone these days, even when it says its "PURE FDA" bla bla bla still can have a certain amount of harmful garbage in it and be called pure according to the Gobmint.

Any oil based products............NOT! Dont do it. They run the risk of softening the leather over time, even in slight amounts and will take your retention away.

What to use is Saddle soap in very small qty's for a trashed/sweatsoaked leather to clean it up. For anything else......a very lightly damp cloth and just clean it up with it.

You can use good leather dressings for maintenance.....polishes, creams etc..........but do so in moderation and only as needed.

Shoot well.