Dad just gave me his 30 year old Browning Hi-Power…I have a few questions


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StrikeFire83
November 18, 2013, 11:19 PM
So my Dad just gave me his 30+ year old Browning Hi-Power. He is keeping his Colt Trooper Mk III for home defense and his Colt Cobra for carry. He says that I can have the Hi-Power on the condition that I don't "expletive it up with a bunch of flashy expletive."

Up until about a year ago, this gun had been sitting at the bottom of a gym bag for about 15 years. I replaced the recoil spring and it functions fine. But the gun has other issues. It has rust. The sights are terrible. AWFUL. I hate them. It is impossible to see the front blade through the rear aperture. Here are some pictures:

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/strikefire83/Hi%20Power/IMG_0723_zpsd889a8a6.jpg
Gun was safety checked, but still shouldn't have my finger on the trigger.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/strikefire83/Hi%20Power/IMG_0726_zpsbbf077ba.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/strikefire83/Hi%20Power/IMG_0724_zpsdb65cf51.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/strikefire83/Hi%20Power/IMG_0725_zps8aafc928.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/strikefire83/Hi%20Power/HiPower-7Yards_zps49b28a3c.jpg
I shoot it decently, even with the poopy sights.

So here's what I want to do:
1. Replace the sights.
2. Remove bluing and put a proper preservative coating on.
3. Add the newer style thumb safety.

I know people bitch about the triggers on these guns and the magazine disconnect safety, but the trigger is fine for me.

Basically, what do y'all think getting these three things done is going to cost me? Also, I'd happily accept any ideas for specific sights that work well on BHPs.

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Deaf Smith
November 18, 2013, 11:38 PM
Great gun!

I used one just like it (with target sights) to make Class 'A', IPSC, way back in early 1990s.

Personally I'd leave it alone. Get a FEG or Argentine FM to do all kinds of jazzing up.

The high front sight will be the problem. I don''t know of any maker of a rear sight that matches it's hight.

Cylinder & Slide does make a real good drop in thumb safety so you can keep the original and stick it back in if need be.

Unless it is real rusty I'd just clean the gun up and use it as-is.

Deaf

rcmodel
November 18, 2013, 11:47 PM
All I would do is open up the rear sight U-notch to match the width of the front sight blade with a safe-edge needle file.

And clean whatever rust there is on it off, with 000 Super-Fine steel wool & Oil.

That's all it needs, and will keep your dad in a better mood the next time he sees it.

After he's gone, you can do all the gold plated hammers, extended slide stops, and engine turned bling you want, till your hearts content.

But it would still be a bad idea to do that to your dads old gun he left in your care.
With expressed wishes you not 'expletive' it up.

rc

StrikeFire83
November 18, 2013, 11:49 PM
Appreciate the responses! It's just that the notch in the rear sight is just so damn SMALL. Even with that dab of white paint on the front blade I just can't see it at the range. Can I replace just the rear sight?

I haven't decided whether or not to get the gun re-coated. But I just don't care for bluing. It requires so much maintenance. I'm used to melonite on my Glocks and Xdm … having a gun rust so easily unless it is totally greased down with oil doesn't sit well with me. But bluing is beautiful and "feels right" on a gun like this.

Jaywalker
November 18, 2013, 11:56 PM
I've had the same model HP as yours since 1981, and while I haven't had any trouble seeing the sights, it's what you can see that matters. Mine doesn't have a white dot on the front sight, so maybe you can sharpie that over and see if things improve. Then maybe try having the rear sight opened up - mine isn't that narrow.

You might also using a #2 pencil lead and try rubbing off the rust spots to see if there's much pitting under it. I'm not sure what kind of coating you're considering, but if it requires polishing first, you're still going to have to work on the rust in the grooves and that'll be hard to get to.

I've considered putting a better safety (one that "clicks" instead of "mushes"), but that would likely require gunsmith fitting, and I don't carry it so haven't bothered. For a house gun that has nothing chambered, I'll be chambering rather than searching for the small safety, so I decided I don't need it.

Basically, I'd suggest one step at a time and that will give you an opportunity to see if it's retrievable...

rcmodel
November 18, 2013, 11:59 PM
Can I replace just the rear sight?You don't need too.
Read my post #3 about opening up the rear sight blade with a needle-file.

having a gun rust so easily unless it is totally greased down with oil doesn't sit well with me.Stop using oil.

Use something that stops rust in it's tracks.
And that ain't oil.

Clean all the rust off and stop it like I said in Post #3 also.

Then, Wipe it down with RIG every time you get done using it and it won't rust.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/rig-rag-universal-grease-applicator-prod31843.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/rig-reg-universal-gun-grease-prod31842.aspx

This is not a bluing issue.

It's operator error by not taking minimal care of it with the right stuff.

rc

StrikeFire83
November 19, 2013, 12:04 AM
^ Okay, cool. I will do what you say. I hadn't read your post when I submitted my last reply. Looks like I'm going to have to learn a few new things about gun care with this old fella. My Glocks and XDm are pretty much "clean, dab of oil on rails, DONE."

5-SHOTS
November 19, 2013, 08:51 AM
All I would do is open up the rear sight U-notch to match the width of the front sight blade with a safe-edge needle file.

And clean whatever rust there is on it off, with 000 Super-Fine steel wool & Oil.

That's all it needs, and will keep your dad in a better mood the next time he sees it.

After he's gone, you can do all the gold plated hammers, extended slide stops, and engine turned bling you want, till your hearts content.

But it would still be a bad idea to do that to your dads old gun he left in your care.
With expressed wishes you not 'expletive' it up.

rc

Quote:
Can I replace just the rear sight?

You don't need too.
Read my post #3 about opening up the rear sight blade with a needle-file.


Quote:
having a gun rust so easily unless it is totally greased down with oil doesn't sit well with me.

Stop using oil.

Use something that stops rust in it's tracks.
And that ain't oil.

Clean all the rust off and stop it like I said in Post #3 also.

Then, Wipe it down with RIG every time you get done using it and it won't rust.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod31843.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod31842.aspx

This is not a bluing issue.

It's operator error by not taking minimal care of it with the right stuff.

rc
What he said.

Pilot
November 19, 2013, 08:58 AM
I have many blued guns, and none of them have rust. I don't do anything special, just normal cleaning, and storage in a temperature controlled environment.

mooner
November 19, 2013, 09:09 AM
Stay away from the steel wool. It will also remove the blueing. There is a product that I cannot remember the name of that will remove the rust without hurting the bluing. It looks like (and probably is) long stringy chips from turning stainless steel on a lathe. Works great, wont hurt the bluing and is cheap ($3-$5). Maybe someone will know what I am talking about.

Edit:

Here it is:http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/abrasives/metal-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx

Brownells calls it a stainless steel sponge. I have bought it under a different name. Highly recommended.

rcmodel
November 19, 2013, 01:11 PM
Stay away from the steel wool. It will also remove the blueing.You know that how?

Super-fine steel wool & oil is used by professional gun finishers to card bluing salts residue & red rust off of freshly blued firearms when they come out of the bluing tanks.

When used with oil, 0000 steel wool simply will not harm bluing while removing all traces of rust.

rc

boom boom
November 19, 2013, 02:19 PM
Try Blue Wonder paste available at Brownells or Midway. It seems to do a better job for me in removing surface rust (not pitting) without removing the bluing or patina. I use it to restore old milsurps that were a heck of a lot more rusty than what your pictures show and they look pretty good.

bainter1212
November 19, 2013, 02:19 PM
RC is right as usual. Oil combined with super fine steel wool will only polish the finish and not remove it. Don't horse it just be gentle. If the original bluing is dull I like to polish with 0000 steel wool, oil AND some Oxpho-blue and it tends to spruce up the bluing a bit.

Bluing, like any other finish, needs a thin coating of grease for protection. I use lithium grease because it is cheap but I am sure there are better options out there (like RC posted above). I slather on a little bit o' grease and wipe it clean with a rag. There will be enough left even though you can't see it. You can also use stock wax to protect metal.

As always I am ready to stand corrected on any error in my advice.

Good luck.

Master Blaster
November 19, 2013, 02:30 PM
Eezox or Breakfree clp will stop the rust. 0000 steel wool with either product to remove the rust, open up the rear sight notch with a pillar or needle file. Get some wood grips for it and loose the Goodyears. Then get a bunch of ammo and practice. After you shoot it clean it and wipe it down with eezox or breakfree and a soft cloth, and store it in a dry place. Some folks also use a good car wax to cleanup and preserve a blued firearm.

Hanshi
November 19, 2013, 02:37 PM
I agree that opening up the rear sight notch is where to begin. You can also file (by hand) a flat on the back of the rear sight for a better sight picture.

mooner
November 19, 2013, 04:46 PM
You know that how?

How do you think?

Admittedly, it was without oil. It was also on an old Westernfield shotgun which was probably cold blued to begin with. I can definitively tell you that 0000 steel wool used without oil will remove a poor bluing job like a you are using a pencil eraser on...well...something written with a pencil.

Live and learn. Gave me a chance to practice restoring a finish with cold blue!

Ever since then I have stayed away from the stuff as I found other means of dealing with poor, neglected guns.

mooner
November 19, 2013, 04:55 PM
Also, I am obviously no expert, but...

The bluing is just an oxidation layer over whatever the finish of the steel is underneath. If you are using the steel wool to polish a bluing job, would you not be removing material (albeit a small amount). Polish too far and you will be into white steel, yes? Sort of like an overzealous car owner going too far with the buffing pad.

Forgive me if I have taken this topic on a path not originally intended!

bainter1212
November 19, 2013, 06:15 PM
Also, I am obviously no expert, but...

The bluing is just an oxidation layer over whatever the finish of the steel is underneath. If you are using the steel wool to polish a bluing job, would you not be removing material (albeit a small amount). Polish too far and you will be into white steel, yes? Sort of like an overzealous car owner going too far with the buffing pad.

Forgive me if I have taken this topic on a path not originally intended!

The oil eliminates much of the friction and will make all the difference between polishing and merely scraping. Think about what oil will do on any metal to metal application......it will eliminate MOST of the friction.

Mango88
November 19, 2013, 07:32 PM
Try Blue Wonder paste available at Brownells or Midway.

+1

Blue Wonder Cleaner is an excellent product and if you need to touch up the bluing after cleaning off the surface try the Blue Wonder Bluing, I've been very satisfied with it.

Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNrX9LFzjUU

Dentite
November 19, 2013, 10:55 PM
As mentioned above you could open the notch in the rear sight a bit (or pay a gunsmith to do it if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself).

Another option is having the slide milled for new modern sights such as Novak or Heinie sights. The gun can then be refinished in a finish of your choice.

That's a nice gift...enjoy it.

StrikeFire83
November 19, 2013, 11:23 PM
I think I'm going to file the rear sight so it is actually usable.

Any idea about what a reasonable gunsmith would charge to mill and install Novak sights…NOT including the sights themselves??

This would be a long term option that I would run by my dad first to make sure it's okay with him. But we don't have "safe queens" in my family, a gun should be shot my Dad always says, that's why this one has been passed to me. He just doesn't shoot it.

bainter1212
November 20, 2013, 03:32 AM
I think I'm going to file the rear sight so it is actually usable.

Any idea about what a reasonable gunsmith would charge to mill and install Novak sights…NOT including the sights themselves??

This would be a long term option that I would run by my dad first to make sure it's okay with him. But we don't have "safe queens" in my family, a gun should be shot my Dad always says, that's why this one has been passed to me. He just doesn't shoot it.

Your dad seems like wise man.

johnmcl
November 20, 2013, 09:39 AM
StrikeFire83,

If you are interested in Novak slide milling certainly one of the most direct routes is to send your slide directly to Novak in WV. They will mill the slide for around $100 including shipping and have it back to you in about a week. Good work, good price, good timing, you get the idea.

I had a BHP slide done with black and black sights installed. The black sight configuration is their least expensive, and will certainly meet your dad's request not to honk up the gun. Those BHPs look rather elegant with the Novak Low Mounts.

Salient point --> A Novak sight installation can be more short term than long term, and will enhance the gun.

WardenWolf
November 20, 2013, 02:18 PM
Get some Flitz polish and clean it with that. Using steel wool to polish a gun is a BAD idea. You're leaving untreated ferrous material behind from the steel wool, which rusts.

rcmodel
November 20, 2013, 02:23 PM
No, you are not.

And it wouldn't matter if you were on a blued ferrous metal gun.

It's all the same thing anyway.

rc

WardenWolf
November 20, 2013, 02:35 PM
Bluing is a corrosion-induced oxidation layer that helps to protect against further corrosion. However, when polishing with steel wool, you are leaving traces of the steel wool behind, as well as scraping away at some of the oxidation. If these traces of steel wool rust, it has a much easier time spreading to the metal finish of the gun. Yes, steel wool can remove rust, but it will encourage future rust unless the surface is then polished clean with another polish. Ideally you would then want to refinish it as well.

Schlegel
November 21, 2013, 10:48 PM
That's a fine gift to hand down. I'd put in the newer factory safety if it were me- it's ambidextrous and larger so you can quite easily operate it compared to the original.

tipoc
November 22, 2013, 02:57 AM
Actually the wrong rear sight blade is in the gun. That rear sigh blade is a replacement it is not original to the gun. The rear sight likely is but not the blade that is in there.

tipoc

StrikeFire83
November 23, 2013, 01:00 AM
Actually the wrong rear sight blade is in the gun. That rear sigh blade is a replacement it is not original to the gun. The rear sight likely is but not the blade that is in there.

tipoc

Really? My dad carried the gun in Nicaragua. I asked him about the crappy rear sight and he said "I didn't use it, they taught us to point shoot."

For those still interested, I took my dad out to dinner tonight and the consensus seems to be that it's my gun now and that I can pretty much do what I want to it. I will NOT bling it out, but I need usable sights. In time, I'll probably send the slide to Novak to have them put decent 3-dots on there. Also, I will get the gun refinished, possibly in Melonite if I can find anybody who does that. Also, I will put the extended "Mark III" thumb safety on there. That's all I plan to do. No gold plated trigger, no pearl ivory grips, no replacement hammer…and the pachmayr grips will remain. That's how dad carried it and I think they feel great!

mic214
November 23, 2013, 03:22 PM
I think I'm going to file the rear sight so it is actually usable.

Any idea about what a reasonable gunsmith would charge to mill and install Novak sights…NOT including the sights themselves??

This would be a long term option that I would run by my dad first to make sure it's okay with him. But we don't have "safe queens" in my family, a gun should be shot my Dad always says, that's why this one has been passed to me. He just doesn't shoot it.

You might want to give Don Williams of "The Action works" a call to see how much he charges for this kind of work. His specialty is the BHP.

http://www.theactionworks.com/

I had him install the ambi safety on my 73C series BHP (I installed the ring hammer and the MK-III grips):

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/mic214/Firearms/BHPnewsafety1.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/mic214/media/Firearms/BHPnewsafety1.jpg.html)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/mic214/Firearms/BHPnewsafety2.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/mic214/media/Firearms/BHPnewsafety2.jpg.html)

S&Wfan
November 23, 2013, 04:03 PM
I'm glad your dad is ok with what you want to do with the gun. When I'm gone my three sons will divide what I haven't already given them at that time but . . . if someone proves to disrespect how the guns should be maintained? All bets are off!

Why? Heck, I don't know! All I know it that I've babied 'em and kept 'em as pristine as I can. I understand that refinishing firearms almost always ruins their value and I know that as such they will be doing a foolish thing that will ruin the piece AND cost them money when they do the NEXT foolish thing . . . which is to then try to sell it. LOL

I'd try to do a little research and see what the original rear sight was and see then if someone makes INSERTS, front and rear for that issue range of front and rear sight that will light your fire. Then, acquire both original front and rear blades PLUS your latest and greatest preferred blades, i.e.: nightsights or whatever. Frankly, nightsights in a HP would be GREAT for self defense!

BTW, this same idea could be extended to entire sight assemblies I imagine, if you wish to go to fully adjustable rear sight systems.

Install the ones you like, save the originals in your safe . . . (uh, you DO have a safe I hope) . . . and you will be good to go until you trust it to your offspring in a few generations. By then this classic firearm will REALLY be uncool! LOL

One thing I truly believe you'll come to deeply regret . . .

One day that aftermarket finish will bug the crap out of you. It will scream "refinish" and folks will wonder just how rough that thing was before someone fished it out of the ocean and buffed it out. Doing this will absolutely kill its value to any collector, and only collectors pay top dollar for any fine handgun. If I saw it with a non-factory finish in a case I promise you my eye would not rest on it more than a tenth of a second, never to return for a second look.

Its your gun though, and PLENTY of fine High Powers out there will remain if you choose to do that to yours.

David E
November 23, 2013, 04:47 PM
It almost looks line the gun was dropped on the rear sight.

Mine, from my father, had been, but the notch appears much bigger than yours.

Evenso, I had the slide milled for Novak sights and it's a GREAT improvement.

I removed the mag safety, replaced the tiny flat thumb safety, put skateboard tape on the front strap and replaced the grips with good looking Cocobolo slabs. It looks, handles and shoots much better than stock.

rondog
November 23, 2013, 05:00 PM
Bluing "requires so much maintenance".

Wow, really? So you'd rather strip it all off? If I were your dad I'd repossess that pistol and save it from ruin. The sights are one thing, but destroying the finish because of some minor rusting and "maintenance", wow.

tipoc
November 23, 2013, 07:26 PM
Strikefire 83,

You can see in these pics below a gun of similar vintage to yours. This is a Sport Model with the type B adjustable rear sights. Notice the width of the rear sight slot compared to yours, while the front sight is of the same type. While the rear sight in yours is a Browning type which was used on the P35 and other guns, it is either from another FN pistol, not a Hi-Power, or the blade in the sight has been replaced. The slot in the rear sight should be wide enough to allow for a good sight picture. The one on your gun does not.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/tipoc/BHP/bhp7.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tipoc/media/BHP/bhp7.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/tipoc/BHP/bhp6.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/tipoc/media/BHP/bhp6.jpg.html)

0000 type steel wool and gun oil will work well removing small spots of rust in my experience, so long as the person doing the rubbing ain't too aggressive. A touch of cold blue will keep rust from that spot. Pitting is another matter. The pics you've provided ain't the best but I see no obvious need to reblue. Clean it up well, repair or replace the rear sight blade and you're ready to go.

tipoc

David E
November 24, 2013, 01:51 AM
I take care of my guns, but my goal is NOT to keep them pristine!

With one or two exceptions, I want to put as much honest wear on my guns as I can. I couldn't care less that "collector" value might be affected.

It's more important to me to:

A) USE the gun enough that it acquires honest wear. That means I got enjoyment and increased my skill with it.

B) Impart a bit of my soul into each one so when kids/grand kids get them, they'll hold something I once held. And it was something important to me that I liked and used. A lot.

My dad had a couple guns that were NIB, but the ones that were of interest to me were the ones he used.

sub-moa
November 24, 2013, 02:51 AM
Your FN/BHP is a 71/73 pattern Sport Model with an original Type A...commonly called "Beer Can", rear sight. Interestingly, that particular rear sight was also used on the FN/Browning Model 1955/71 .380acp pistol. At some point evidently your pistol was dropped/struck, bending the rear flat portion of the sight elevation lever (PO57343) downward slightly. Apparently, the spring steel cylindrical "Beer Can" rear notch was damaged as well. Instead of installing the correct replacement part (PO57342), someone used the very similar spring steel cylindrical rear notch from a Browning BLR rifle...that notch is much narrower.

You can simply replace PO57343 and especially PO57342 which will return your Sport Model back to original trim. I would point out that the correct original OEM rear notch is relatively narrow and shallow for quick work...but precise for target work. The opposing screws used to adjust windage are known to loosen with use...LockTite will hold them in place once you've zeroed the sights though.

FWIW, if you're interested; the DOM of your pistol can be determined through the serial number. If it's a "C" range...'71-'77, the 2 digits before the "C" will be the year your pistol was manufactured. If it's a late '77...or later into the '80s, the serial number will begin with 245 followed by 2 letters. The 2 letters are a date code...RN would be '79 while PZ would be '81.

Hope that helps :D

Kahr33556
November 24, 2013, 07:11 AM
I would not re blue it just keep the outside wiped with a light coat of oil.
sights ? not sure your options

Pilot
November 24, 2013, 09:29 AM
sub-moa nailed it. Looks like a C series with altered/damaged "beer can" adjustable sights.

Jim PHL
November 24, 2013, 04:43 PM
So here's what I want to do:
1. Replace the sights.
2. Remove bluing and put a proper preservative coating on.
3. Add the newer style thumb safety.

This is what I think you should do: Get the sites you want. Get the safety you want. Get the finish you want. It will still and always be the gun your Dad gave you.

sub-moa
November 24, 2013, 04:43 PM
Thank you Pilot :D

larryh1108
November 25, 2013, 09:19 PM
Cerakote is a good option for a nice, easy to maintain finish. If you get the slide cut by Novak you would need to have the repaired area refinished anyway. After Novak and before new sights are installed would be the time to refinish your slide/gun.

CA Raider
November 25, 2013, 11:58 PM
"So my Dad just gave me his 30+ year old Browning Hi-Power"

no offense ... but you are dwelling on the wrong set of questions.

here is what you were supposed to say to your Dad ...

"Hey Dad, you know that fishing rod you've been wanting for the last 3 years - well I went out and bought it for you. And you know that cabin on the lake up in Canada that you always liked ... well I went out and bought that too. And I threw in a canoe as well. Now here's the keys to the old Ford truck and I filled it up with gas!!!".

THAT was the hint that your Dad was trying to give you :-)

CA R

BSA1
November 26, 2013, 07:49 PM
THE last word in Browning Hi-Power;

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=CP108

StrikeFire83
November 27, 2013, 12:12 AM
Special thanks to mic214, johnmcl, tipoc, sub-moa and BSA1 for the great substantive information. I have a lot to think about. I'm gonna mull it over during the Holidays and not make any big decisions right now. I don't have the money to do anything at the moment anyway, so there's that.

I take care of my guns, but my goal is NOT to keep them pristine!

With one or two exceptions, I want to put as much honest wear on my guns as I can. I couldn't care less that "collector" value might be affected.

It's more important to me to:

A) USE the gun enough that it acquires honest wear. That means I got enjoyment and increased my skill with it.

B) Impart a bit of my soul into each one so when kids/grand kids get them, they'll hold something I once held. And it was something important to me that I liked and used. A lot.

Basically, this is my feeling. Honestly, the Hi-Power was not a safe queen. This gun was carried in a jungle and used to defend life and limb. Whatever the original grips were, Dad took them off and threw them in the garbage because "the Pachs just felt better." As for collector value, that's not relevant because this gun will never be sold. Never as in not ever. It's a family piece. Because of that, I'm leaning towards NOT refinishing it with melonite or cerakote but changing out the sights because they're not original anyway (as y'all have so kindly pointed out) and I hate them.

Thanks for all the info and opinions. I will keep y'all posted.

Jim Watson
November 27, 2013, 12:38 AM
I would get it to where I could use it comfortably without making any huge changes to Dad's Gun.

I would get some sights on it that I could see. I don't like paying $100 for milling machine time for a fixed sight, but do not see another way out for the "beer can" adjustable which I would sure want to change.

I would likely go with a C&S safety, a big enough lever to hit, but not ambidextrous.

Melonite is a dark finish, as is Ion Bond. Either will be much more wear and corrosion resistant than bluing, but not change the appearance much.

I like Pachmayr wraparound grips on Colts, not so much on Brownings. Unfortunately you can't get the nicely rounded Navidrex micarta, I do not know what else to look at.
A razor blade will help the Pachmayrs in this application.

StrikeFire83
November 27, 2013, 04:16 PM
Yeah, the "beer can" sight is awful. Especially considering how, as somebody pointed out, whoever bubba'd the gun for my dad when he left the military put a freaking RIFLE SIGHT on the back rear. Novak 3-dots are going on this gun, that much is certain. Everything else is up in the air.

I'm right handed, so I agree, no ambi safety for me.

As for the coating I'm thinking of just learning to live with the bluing. Is it the ideal coating? Not in my opinion. But this isn't a carry gun or even frankly a "grab first" home defense weapon so it doesn't need to be 100% rust or corrosion proof.

David E
November 27, 2013, 05:34 PM
Here is a picture of my BHP

Sorry it's upside down, I tried fixing it, but can't. Maybe it's due to iphone?

David E
November 27, 2013, 05:46 PM
I'd refrain from 3-Dot sights. You just need the Dit on the front sight.

Didn't you discover the busy Glock sights affect your ability to shoot accurately?

StrikeFire83
November 28, 2013, 01:05 PM
^Yes, very true, but that's Glock's "white line valley" rear sight…for some reason I shoot fine with 3-dots. But if Novack makes a white front black rear I'll probably do that instead of 3-dots.

Lucky Derby
November 29, 2013, 03:16 AM
Chuck Warner makes an awesome sight for the BHP. Check it out before you make a decision.
www.warnerpistols.com

stonecutter2
November 29, 2013, 08:36 AM
Bluing is a corrosion-induced oxidation layer that helps to protect against further corrosion. However, when polishing with steel wool, you are leaving traces of the steel wool behind, as well as scraping away at some of the oxidation. If these traces of steel wool rust, it has a much easier time spreading to the metal finish of the gun. Yes, steel wool can remove rust, but it will encourage future rust unless the surface is then polished clean with another polish. Ideally you would then want to refinish it as well.
Rust doesn't spread. It simply occurs when the conditions are right for the metal to oxidize. Being aggressive with steel wool can definitely work small holes into bluing, which can then rust. Bits of steel wool leftover are inconsequential because if they're on the surface of the gun, and the finish is intact, they may rust but can be simply wiped away.

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