To clarify how long Hoppe's #9...?


Ignition Override
December 13, 2013, 11:46 PM
Having read various recommendations, can you guys/gals clarify whether the duration staying in a chamber/bore should be minutes, maybe an hour, three, up to six hours?

A former coworker claimed that 30 seconds was the max. limit.
Having been a former active duty C-141 Stan. Eval. (Check Airman) guy, he seems to have quite a memory for detailed facts, even in other areas.
I never asked him where he read/heard about "thirty seconds".

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December 14, 2013, 12:11 AM
I swab the bores of my rifles with Hoppes for storage. Have been for 40+ years. Its made of ethanol (15-40%), kerosine (15-40%), oleic acid (15-40%), amyl acetate (5-10%) and ammonium hydroxide (1-5%) according to the MSDS. None of that is going to hurt steel in the concentrations that are used.

Jim Watson
December 14, 2013, 12:31 AM
I don't use Hoppes but I keep a tall skinny bottle of the Benchrest Blend, 50:50 of the similar Shooter's Choice and Kroil. Three days seems about right for a heavily fouled 1911 barrel.

December 14, 2013, 12:49 AM
Hoppe's will not Hurt your Bore.
But it is also not the Best rust preventative for long term storage, unless you coat the barrel really good and let it create a film on the surfaces.
Then it must be cleaned off before shooting.
I am a follower of cleaning the bore with Hoppe's, then properly Oiling it for storage, especially in Humid conditions.

December 14, 2013, 12:55 AM
LAGS, I should have mentioned I live in one of the driest places in the world. If I lived with humidity I'd use something else. Bottom line to the OP is that Hoppes won't damage your barrel in a month of Sundays.

Ignition Override
December 14, 2013, 01:47 AM
Thanks very much. Some of my five Enfields are seldom used, along with one of the Garands, the Yugo Mauser and my best Spanish FR8.

Having recently acquired a first handgun (Sauer 38H) and a Yugo M-59 SKS, both in excellent condition, it's nice to finally clear things up.

December 14, 2013, 04:31 AM
I've soaked my pistol barrels in it for a night or two. It got everything out and the barrels were fine.

December 14, 2013, 03:57 PM
Use the Hoppes, or anything else you want, for cleaning. (Hoppes isn't very effective against copper, though) Once the piece is clean, though, store it with Mobil 1. A synthetic oil which doesn't oxidize, and clings to metal like the devil.

Jim K
December 14, 2013, 04:56 PM
The old Hoppes #9 formula included ammonia to remove the cupronickel fouling that bedeviled target shooters in the days when bullets had cupronickel jackets. After a day's shooting, the cupronickel would accumulate in clumps in the barrel and ultimately affect accuracy, so most barrel cleaning involved ammonia, which dissolves copper, and many, many, many applications of an ammonia based cleaner, a bronze brush and patches.

Cupronickel jackets went away around WWII and the buildup problem with them, but Hoppes kept the ammonia for many years, finally reformulating it when ammonia was found to attack the copper cladding used in much of the factory nickel plating up to a few years ago. Using Hoppes on a nickel plated revolver was almost a sure way to start the nickel peeling.

The current Hoppes formula (AFAIK) has no harmful effect on steel or nickel plating.


December 14, 2013, 07:18 PM
As far back as the 60's I knew experienced shooters who kept Hoppe's #9 in their bore permanently as a storage coating.
No bad effects at all.

However, in the past few years, Hoppe's has had to change their formula at least twice.
Still, I don't see it harming a bore.

December 22, 2013, 09:19 AM
I was born in '50 and that's all anybody in the extended family ever did - leave the #9 in the barrel after cleaning. I did it that way from the mid'50s to the early '80s. Hoppe's had to remove the nitrobenzene from the formula sometime in the 1980s.

I still have the '63 Mountie that survived almost 20 years of #9. It's fine.

Heck, my uncle has my grandfather's pre-war (WWI) 12 ga. SxS hammer gun. It's fine.

The new #9? I dunno. It doesn't appear to be very aggressive.

December 22, 2013, 05:30 PM best bore cleaner ever.Says on the directions(take a gun you think is clean use Wipeout and see it isnt) color of patch after using shows whats in your barrel.:cool::cool::cool::)

December 22, 2013, 06:56 PM
Current formula Hoppes is not at all like the old version. It does say not to let it stay on or soak Nickle finish.

It's a solvent/cleaner not a long term rust preventative or lube.

Use it to clean and follow up with any brand synthetic oil.

December 25, 2013, 10:16 PM
I see two recommendations for synthetic oil here. How about Remington Gun Oil? (RemOil)

January 3, 2014, 04:27 PM
I see two recommendations for synthetic oil here. How about Remington Gun Oil? (RemOil)

My personal experience with Rem-oil is that it's terrible as a rust preventative because it seems to completely dry up in a week or two. I originally purchased some because the spray bottle (non-aerosol) is very convenient to use, but I noticed that the guns treated with it began rusting very quickly. I no longer use it on firearms.

January 3, 2014, 10:08 PM
I like BreakFree CLP or Prolix

January 3, 2014, 10:30 PM
Look in the firearm owner's manual in the section for "Cleaning".

January 8, 2014, 12:54 PM
Here is a great article regarding firearm lubrication.

deadeye dick
January 8, 2014, 01:47 PM
Here is a great article regarding firearm lubrication.
Verrry interesting

January 20, 2014, 07:55 PM
Both of the lubricants I use as the final "coat" of my firearms, are synthetic.

Peak synthetic red grease and Mobil1. I use Hoppes, Break Free, and a myriad of other collected cleaners and what not.

But before i put away what I am cleaning, I give them a treatment with the synthetics. They stay put and dont dry out.

be safe.

January 20, 2014, 09:15 PM
It does say not to let it stay on or soak Nickle finish Should not affect electroless nickel...

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