Slip2000 Cleaners and Lube


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627PCFan
January 8, 2014, 03:06 PM
Long story short I got a trial package of Slip2000 gun cleaning supplies. Ive always used hoppes for general cleaning and Shooters Choice for lead since thats pretty much all I shoot these days. Anyway they advertise the cleaner as non-toxic except for the oils, figured I would give it a go. While it was the dirtiest and shot the most, I wasnt about to use something new on my 627 so the wifes beater 638 got the test :) PS Im no way shape or form involved with the company or its distys


http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/JRSpicer426/056ca1a0-2f7b-4a05-9b59-b3717719abcf_zpsf7d80185.jpg (http://s260.photobucket.com/user/JRSpicer426/media/056ca1a0-2f7b-4a05-9b59-b3717719abcf_zpsf7d80185.jpg.html)

The bottle of green "Carbon killer" is a soaking fluid. I popped the cylinder and crane off and dropped both in for 10 minutes. Directions said no more than 15 minutes or damage could occur to certain finishes. After a soak and light rubbing all the light carbon and soot rubbed off. Heavily fouled areas like the the corners inside the frame window still took some effort with a brass bristled brush. Opened up the frame to do a quick check for dirt inside, not hardly any so I put a couple of drops of lube in there for refreshing. I normally use Mobil 1. I sprayed the frame down with the 725 spray. Shined up nice after a wipe down. These products seem to be marketed to the black gun crowd so that might be why I wasnt overly impressed. The EWG grease didnt get used, but I did like the oil. Its seem like a slightly thickened, clear and non smelly mineral oil. I did like that.

Pros: Works pretty good, non-solvent based so less toxic alternative if your sensitive to that thing.

Cons:Works pretty good. Chemicals aside I didnt notice any subtanical gain over hoppes. Also after you use the carbon killer you have to rinse your parts in water. I switched to Blackhorn powder in my muzzleloader because I dont like guns and water. Rinsing revolver parts was a deal breaker for me. I guess a wipe down would be sufficient but when it gets in the recesses, you dont want that co-mingling with new oil long term, you have to wash it out.
The other con. retail price. I noticed the small bottles sell for a little more than what you can get a big bottle of Hoppes for.

Either way Ill keep it around and use it up. Never complain about freebies :)

Here is the cylinder after soaking and wiping. None of their products touched the lead on the cylinder face which is all that is left in this pic.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii15/JRSpicer426/b8aee539-e2a7-41ee-af29-7ca0218da773_zps05c75cfb.jpg (http://s260.photobucket.com/user/JRSpicer426/media/b8aee539-e2a7-41ee-af29-7ca0218da773_zps05c75cfb.jpg.html)

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Laphroaig
January 11, 2014, 09:14 PM
I've been using their stuff for several years now. Started with carbon killer on AR15 bolts. It really dissolves the heavy carbon buildup that I used to try and scrub off with a scrunge. I'm also using it as the first chemical through a dirty bore to cut the carbon fouling so I can get down to the copper fouling. I've never heard that you have to wash your parts in water afterwords although its important to wipe it off and get oil on the bare metal ASAP. That stuff is a super degreaser.

I've been using the EWG on my Garands. As good as any grease I've tried, I suppose. Also I put the oil on high wear areas and bolt of my AR15's. Its supposed to be good to 2000 F or something like that.

And I'm not making or selling this stuff either, just a satisfied user :)

Laphroaig

quartermaster
January 17, 2014, 11:19 PM
agree

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