Need info, "stuff" for my 1911


March 30, 2004, 04:04 PM
Howdy all,

well Yesterday i put a Springfield "WW2 GI" on layaway.

and now i got "doo-dads, and add-ons" and "truely nessesary stuff" questions.
in no particular order with regard to importance....

who/what/when/where is the best place to get 230gr hardball nowadays? and how much is it running? i just bought 100rds for $20 at local shop, but i figure there has got to be even better prices than that (and for all i know i got bilked but i doubt it).

a listing of grip makers would be real nice.. gun i bought (or "am Buying") has those ugly "poop brown plastic" grips that i guess are supposed to mimic the "coltwood" style composition grips of yesteryear, but i want a nice wood set to replace them in the near future.

what type of "spares bin" should i keep around for this thing? i know it may never have a problem but just in case.....

si there anything ELSE i should be thinking of? lubes to get, suggested items to help with care adn feeding ??

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March 30, 2004, 04:35 PM
Ammo: You may find it less at, but I just buy the Walmarts value packs at the same price for Winchester White box.
Get some good hollow points too....a few boxes of various brands to see which functions ok(and to give you an idea of the most reliable and accurate for your 1911).
Lube: Lotsa choices...I use Breakfree...have for years, but I cannot say its the best. Been using Tetra on the slide rails lately.
Boresnake: quick cleaning of the bore.
Order catalogs from Wilson Combat, Brownell's and Dillon Precision...give you all kinds of ideas; but KISS is a good rule for 1911's in my experience.
Mags: I like Wilson's(cheaper thru Dillon), but the Chip McCormick's I have tried have worked well too. Mags are the fuel injectors of your pistol, so buy the best you can afford!! Should have at least 6.
Skateboard tape...on the front strap(or wilson makes a similar piece) does wonder for control.
Grips; is a good place for info and has links to most parts. I like Wilson's, but most of mine wear the good wood that came from the factory...after a long experiment with that rubber stuff(yech).
Holster, Belt, mag pouch: Great you gotta have it when you need it. makes the stuff for Wilson's and it is cheaper to order direct. I like MiltSparks myself. Suggest and good gunbelt, IWB, double mag pouch and a belt slide of somesort. Do not worry. you'll try more!
Parts and mod's: find out if it is reliable, by shooting it alot. If not, get the reliability issues worked out first by a competant 'smith. The look into(in my order of priorities)...sights that you can acquire fast. Decent trigger. A thumb safety you can activate fast. And I like the new beavertails with the bump, just seems to make it more comfortable for me.
Later: a .22 conversion unit is nice, I have a Ciener, but now would get a Marvel, though you can get a Ruger .22/45 for less and have two pistols.
Ideas to start.

March 30, 2004, 04:37 PM
that's about par for the course as far as ammo is concerned.

$10/50 is typical retail for 230 FMJ

buying bulk you can save a little bit...

March 30, 2004, 04:52 PM
thanks for the replies so far guys.....

thought i'd check back adn also clarify a few things i forgot to put int eh original (writing and thinking at the same time, is H@!! when you;ve had 4 hours sleep in 48)

here are what i consider "known factors" in what will happen to this pistol.

other than sometime down the road swapping the SA "ILS" Mainspring and housing assembly for one, "lacking Lawyer BS devices" and the above mentioned grip swap, i do not intend to replace anything that aint broke. this gun will stay pretty close to the condition it started in.

IF i decide to carry this pistol, it has a 90%+ chance of residing in a rig from Tucker Gunleather ( , he's highly recomended i've seen his wares in person, and he's pretty much a "local Businessman" (last i heard it was a one man shop and i consider houston "local")

like i said just thought i'd clarify a little, :)

Sean Smith
March 30, 2004, 04:53 PM is a great place to get really nice wood grips.

For ammo, you can get better deals, but not by a huge amount. You can often find S&B 230gr FMJ for good prices in bulk. I would avoid Wolff or American Ammo (not to be confused with Federal American Eagle, which is excellent).

For lube, I strongly suggest FP-10.

For extra magazines, I always had good luck with Wilsons.

Johnny Guest
March 30, 2004, 06:38 PM
You have a newly built version of a truly classic military sidearm. I submit that the "straight GI version" has a charm and utility all its own. IF the brown plastic stocks are truly a copy of the service standard, they are VERY utilitarian, and look very good in a GI M3 or M7 shoulder holster, or in a 1916 type flap holster. Other classic stocks for such a pistol are the full-checked walnut with plain oil finish, or, possibly, the true copy of the 1911 type double diamond stocks.

All the above stocks are very serviceable, "hell for stout," and easily replaceable if damaged. I like to take a set of checked (please, NOT "checkered" :p) wood panels and just barely knock the sharp tops off the diamonds. Then I go over 'em with a toothbrush and acetone/nail polish remover, to remove the varnish. Once everything dries out, rub in boiled linseed oil. Now I've "dressed up" a classic pistol in a classic manner, without making it gaudy.

Truly fancy stocks - - ivory, stag, inlays of any type - - really don't belong on a military style pistol, if you wish to stay with that "image."

One guy's opinion, certainly. Your pistol, your preferences. ;)

Ammo? Armscorp markets 230 FMJ ammo very reasonably, especially if you buy it a case at a time. Around here, it sells for about a dollar a box more than the Wolf brand steel cased stuff, and is far nicer, cleaner, ammo, with readily reloadable cases.

First thing- - Don't send your money on ANYTHING but a decent field holster, a couple of spare magazines, and all the ammo you can afford. Learn your pistol before you start in on the bells and whistles. There's always time to spend more money later.

Spare parts: It is a simple fact of life that many manufacturers hold down prices by use of MIM parts. Next trip to the gun show, ask around and see if you can locate genuine old style, forged parts with Parkerized finish, and pick up at least a slide stop and preferably a thumb safety as well. You'll pay more for these, but I think they're worth the cost. An extra recoil spring is nice to have. Get the normal strength, NOT the heavy duty, extra power type. An assortment of spare pins - - Sear, hammer, mainspring housing, and the plunger spring and pins, are nice to have.

If you're not already well familiar with the 1911 type pistols, find a military field manual, or, better still, Hallock's .45 Book. Learn to detail strip the pistol. You'll be glad you did.

Before you begin making modifications or alterations on your new pistol, take it out and really SHOOT it some - - Several hundred rounds, at least. Unless the hammer pinches you, why spend the money for a beavertail grip safety? Resist the temptation to install a long guide rod. Go to the THR gunsmithing area and read every post concerning work on this type, before you charge off into "do it yourself" projects. Believe me, I've learned a LOT from those, and I've been shooting and using .45s for 40 years.

Welcome to the wonderful world of 1911s. Live long and prosper!


March 30, 2004, 07:42 PM
Excellent Post!

Chocked full of good sound advice, worth re reading!!

Of course I'm biased and agree 110% with this thinking...applicable to more that just the "straight GI version".

[Shotguns, revolvers, rifles, other semi auto handguns as well...]

March 30, 2004, 09:03 PM
Agree with SM great post! :D is healping already...

First thing- - Don't send your money on ANYTHING but a decent field holster, a couple of spare magazines, and all the ammo you can afford....... ....Before you begin making modifications or alterations on your new pistol, take it out and really SHOOT it some - - Several hundred rounds, at least.

the ONLY things that i plan to replace before i have about 500 rounds through this thing (and then consider it "broke in") are the grip panels, probably with plain checked or "double diamond pattern" walnut types (Probably double diamonds, kinda like em best :D ) B/C the factory plastic items are too light for my taste (they're lighter than the eamples i have seen of "real" WW2 era plastic grips)

and a good reasonably priced, feild type holster is on the "get soon after gun comes off layaway" list. been thinking about going down to the surplus store or the gun show and getting just a beat up old GI leather flap holster (or one of the newer nylon one's based on such a critter) for it. but i'm open to suggestions.....

like i said eventually the gun will spend a good amount of time in leather from Tucker up in Houston. but till then, and for knockaround "relearning pistol in general" ect. type use other options are always entertained.

In Fact.....

look very good in a GI M3 or M7 shoulder holster, or in a 1916 type flap holster.
Know of any good places to find reproes of these? bonus for versions of the shoulder rigs (these are the ones that put the holster actually on your chest instead of in your armpit right??) that will fit a "person of girth" :D.

Mil Novecientos Once
March 30, 2004, 10:08 PM


You should use the Loaded Coupon to buy as many mags as you can, up to ten. Those mags are Metalform and they are second to none. On the 1911 forum you'll read lots of info regarding the customization of your gun

March 30, 2004, 11:11 PM
ebay usually has true 1911 military or repo grips listed.

March 30, 2004, 11:39 PM
In addition to the parts already mentioned make sure u have a spare extractor, firing pin, firing pin spring & firing pin stop. All subject to breakage & easy to replace- I like Wilson or Brown parts, and I keep them in my range bag so I won't have to end a range session prematurely. BTW you should choose a recoil spring weight by the loads u will shoot. Factory loads use the normal 16#. For light loads I use a 14#. If u would use a real heavy load, u might want an 18#. Good luck with your new purchase & good shooting. :)

Johnny Guest
March 31, 2004, 11:09 AM
Detritus - - Glad to see you’re on track, sir.


El Paso Saddlery makes perhaps the finest reproduction military holsters available, PLUS, you can “Do it your way” - - I had my 1912 holster done with the Texas Star on the flap, rather than standard “US.” ;) They offer the M3 design shoulder holster only, not the M7. You can order it with an extra-long strap, too. Prices are a bit high, but, as mentioned, the leather and workmanship is absolutely first rate.
Click “Military” at the top of the page.

Other excellent reproduction military type holsters –and some originals as well-- are available from International Military Antiques, The illustrations alone are worth a visit to this web site.
For their replicas of the M7 type - - Scroll on from there for other military types. They offer a nice -- and reasonably priced -- replica of the 1916 holster in WWI and WWII russet color.

Also, check Numrich/Gun Parts Corporation, at
They frequently have some interesting accessories, including holsters. They also show genuine GI brown plastic stocks, and some reasonably priced, old style, checked wood panels.

1911WB - - So right! I was rushed when I concluded my last entry, and neglected to mention the other spare parts you listed. I especially like to have an extra, previously fitted, extractor on hand. One should not wait until an extractor hook chips or breaks to learn that the spare needs some tuning!

Mil Novecientos Once - - Good reading list, sir, especially first, second and fourth items. (I’ve meant to say previously, I really admire your screen name. :p )


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