Another question about AR's


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Hudnall
February 3, 2014, 01:03 AM
Ok, this may have been discussed before, if so forgive me. Some of the officers I work with swear by using Mobil 1 to lube their bolts. They have stated that they have not had anything but positive feedback and the guns run much better and stay wet longer. Anyone else doing this? Any reason not to?

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gunnutery
February 3, 2014, 01:15 AM
I've heard of using motor oil for lube on guns, I'll probably switch to it myself when my last bottle of gun oil is empty. I'll probably use Castrol though:)

primalmu
February 3, 2014, 01:19 AM
I used a 50/50 mix of motor oil and automatic transmission fluid. I started on my first AR, and have now started using it on all my guns. I don't know if it makes them operate better under the conditions I shoot in (I'm not exactly taxing my guns) but I have a feeling it will do a heck of a lot better than thin "gun" oil.

MistWolf
February 3, 2014, 02:01 AM
An AR will run on almost any kind of oil. The difference between them is how often the lube needs to be re-applied. I've been using Rem Oil on my ARs because it's what I had and have been too cheap and lazy to go get something else. I have to apply more often but it gets the job done. Mobil 1 works fine. For me, ATF is a poor choice because contact with my skin and it's fumes leaves a nasty taste in my mouth. Before using something, check the MSDS on it.

Lube your AR but don't over think it

chris in va
February 3, 2014, 04:02 AM
I use it on my Sport, no issues. Applied by a q-tip.

Grumulkin
February 3, 2014, 04:09 AM
Ok, this may have been discussed before, if so forgive me. Some of the officers I work with swear by using Mobil 1 to lube their bolts. They have stated that they have not had anything but positive feedback and the guns run much better and stay wet longer. Anyone else doing this? Any reason not to?

The reason not to would be that in cold weather motor oil or ATF fluid could gum things up but maybe that wouldn't be a concern in Texas.

Also, why would you want the gun to stay "wet?" Both Prolix and Microlon Gun juice provide good lubrication, aren't wet and won't gum things up.

sfed
February 3, 2014, 05:28 AM
I would think if you used the Mobil 1 as you stated and you used the multi viscosity oil the oil will do just fine in cold weather and warm as well. If you used 10W30 in the cold weather the viscosity would be similar to using it in your car, meaning the lubricity of the oil would stay reasonably the same as a 10 weight oil in cold weather and in hot weather it would be no thicker than 30 weight oil. I have probably over simplified the analogy, I had a printout explaining in technical terms the rating of different multi viscosity oils at different temperatures. But this is basically what it was all boiled down to. In an auto engine in cold weather the 10W is the thinnest this particular oil would act like and once up to operating temperature the thickest it would be is 30 weight. I hope this helps, and I would be interested in how this works out for you. I use a thin synthetic grease on all the bolts in my AR`s, I have 3 and I have seen no wear at all so far. It is called TW25B sold under the name Mil Comm, it is an extreme performance synthetic grease. The label says it is proven superior in salt water, sand, humidity. It has a temperature range of
-90F to 450F and is non toxic, non flammable and environmentally safe too. I think I got it from Midway USA. Also this grease is white in color so it makes it easy to tell if it needs cleaning of the bolt carrier.

Tirod
February 3, 2014, 10:20 AM
Mobil One is ok, but for the money any oil will do. All it has to do is soak up blowback out of the chamber when it begins extraction. That makes it easier to clean.

Other than that, there's no much reason to use special oils or lubes. Gun oils are marketed at outrageously high prices per quart, do the math and then consider they aren't that special. Most use them to keep rust off. If they reduce friction it's really a incremental difference - the idea is to keep the action from becoming high effort as the power residue builds up.

ANY oil can be used, many cooking oils, even personal lubricants have been. There is information on the net about one experiment where the poster coated bare pieces of carbon steel sheet metal and left them exposed in the weather for a year to see which would prevent corrosion. In most cases the gun oils did no better than things like transmission fluid.

In self loading actions, a lot gets blown off quickly anyway, wipe off the residue and add more oil, done. It's not rocket science, but there is a lot of marketing hype and ego involved.

MistWolf
February 3, 2014, 10:48 AM
A discussion about lubes and ARs in very cold weather
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?146266-Lube-and-the-Polar-Vortex

mtrmn
February 3, 2014, 11:44 AM
Yes I do it. The motor oil is formulated to combat carbon as well as lubricate. Your bolt carrier assembly is basically an internal combustion engine. Carbon just wipes away when soaked with WD40 as a cleaner.

strambo
February 3, 2014, 12:07 PM
I use Mobile 1 synthetic. 1qt will last a loooong time.

benEzra
February 3, 2014, 12:10 PM
Yes, I use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, and it works better than any gun-marketed oil I've tried.

The reason not to would be that in cold weather motor oil or ATF fluid could gum things up but maybe that wouldn't be a concern in Texas.

That's one reason to use Mobil 1 EP or another high quality synthetic oil, not a bargain-basement fossil oil (and that goes for lubes marketed as "gun oils" also). Synthetics have a much wider temperature range than conventional oils. And I probably wouldn't go thicker than 5W-30 except in warmer weather.

Smokey Joe
February 3, 2014, 12:17 PM
Some while back there was a lot of discussion about this. I considered the cost. A quart of Mobil 1 cost $5 and change. You can spend that much on a two ounce bottle of special "gun oil." With a quart of Mobil 1 I expect I have a lifetime supply of oil for guns and whatever else needs a little squirt of the stuff.

I apply the Mobil 1 using a hardware-store oil can with a built-in pump, and careful trigger control. Keep one such can in the basement workshop, and one in the garage.

Have observed no bad effects from using a "car engine oil" in a "firearm application." The viscosity issue has been discussed by above posters.

So: Mobil 1: Expensive to use by the quart in a car engine. CHEAP, and effective, to use by the couple-of-drops.

dprice3844444
February 3, 2014, 12:32 PM
synthetic is alot stickier than regular oil.i use oil to lube the hammer/trigger pin area and amsoil heavy duty extreme pressure wheel bearing grease for the carrier.real slick and sticky.water proof and doesn't wash off easily.great on pistol slides,too.

atomd
February 3, 2014, 12:41 PM
Yes, I use Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, and it works better than any gun-marketed oil I've tried.

I use that same exact oil also. I have a milk crate full of different gun oils and I think the Mobil 1 EP 5w30 is as good as the best I've tried if not better.

moxie
February 3, 2014, 02:14 PM
I use Mobil 1 5W-20 oil and Mobil Synthetic Grease (the red stuff) on all my guns now. Sometimes, depending on application, like slide rails, I mix a bit of the oil and grease with a fingertip. Works great.

The 5W-20 is a tiny bit thinner than the 5W-30.

Blade First
February 3, 2014, 06:47 PM
<sigh>

So...is this how it is? We've reached the zenith where the curves have crossed and it's just not worth using and evaluating any new products because they cost more than synthetic motor oil?

Progress is over? A quart or liter of synthetic [insert generic product here] will last you a lifetime? And it's inexpensive!

Lubricity? Corrosion resistance? Molecular bonding? Friction reduction? Resistance to high-pressure gas incursion? Carbon absorption?

Nah...black powder, soap, water and tallow for me. That'll keep those snake-oil sales freaks from taking advantage!!!

Regular Joe
February 4, 2014, 02:15 AM
Go ahead and "research" all you want, if that's an aspect of the sport that you enjoy.
I was using Castrol GTX for awhile in the AR, and found that Mobil 1 does indeed "stay wet" much longer. Someone asks why we want the AR to stay wet. Well, because it needs to! Try to work on your comprehension of what lubricants do in mechanical devices that undergo high friction stress.
As for the technical mumbo jumbo, I read somewhere a while back that synthetic oil tends to maintain that molecular bond better than most anything else. In short, it "floats" the solid deposits like carbon, brass flecks and cat hair, but still maintains a film of oil on the parts. Because of this, clean-up is easier than with other stuff I've tried. I'm a Mobil 1 fan for good.

atomd
February 4, 2014, 07:36 AM
sigh>

So...is this how it is? We've reached the zenith where the curves have crossed and it's just not worth using and evaluating any new products because they cost more than synthetic motor oil?


I am always willing to try some new product if it interests me. I can also see people not wanting to switch things up all the time either though. There's also different products for different uses. I have one pocket pistol that I use eezox on because it has rusted in the past and I find that eezox does a good job at rust prevention. I also use other products as well.

When I use breakfree or fp10 (and some others) I find that after shooting a few hundred rounds the bolt carrier is practically dry because it burns off so quick (maybe some of it doesn't stay put as well). When I use Mobil 1, that bcg is still visibly lubricated in the places I applied it. It's not some miracle lube but it seems to work well. I still use FP10 sometimes for certain things still though. Also, the fact that Mobil is a fraction of the price of other products doesn't hurt either....although that's a lesser concern when it comes to oil since I don't go through gallons of it anyways.

Many years ago (10 or so maybe) there was a company..probably one guy in his garage that was selling vials of lube specifically for AR15s. They came in a plastic vial with a very plain white sticker on it like it was made on an inkjet printer. They sold for $10 each I think. I wish I could remember the name of it. People were saying how great the stuff was and talking about it like it was a miracle oil. Turns out the guy selling it was just rebottling mobil 1. As soon as that was found out, he went away overnight and people didn't talk about it anymore.

justice06rr
February 7, 2014, 01:12 AM
A friend of mine who is a car mechanic coined a phrase "oil is oil".

Loosely speaking, it is true in most applications.

I've used Rotella diesel truck oil on my Honda Sportbike (600RR if anyone cares) and it runs flawlessly for thousands of miles. I've also used WD40 to lube the chain instead of Repsol chain oil and it works just fine.

Normally I stick with known gun oils like Hoppes9 and CLP for my firearms, but I have no problems using motor oil; in fact, I might buy a 5qt jug of motor oil since I'm running low on Hoppes9...

horsemen61
February 7, 2014, 01:39 AM
Can you overlube an ar the reason I ask is because I got a kit from PSA and it was bone dry when I got it and upon inspection my buddy got his can of hoppes gun lube and sprayed it down like there was no tomarrow

justice06rr
February 7, 2014, 02:40 AM
Well, you can sorta overlube it if its dripping with oil (literally). Normally you want to lube it generously without wasting the oil.

you should be fine though, just wipe it down after lubing. The most important part to lube is the BCG. Also run a few oiled patches through the chamber and bore to lube that area. The chamber will be completely dry on a new upper/barrel and will sometimes stick if you don't apply any oil there. I had hard extractions when I forgot to do this on a completely new rifle.

d2wing
February 7, 2014, 10:06 PM
Oil is oil but not the same oil. The main thing to remember that synthetic oil is different than petroleum oil in that synthetics like Mobil 1, Amzoil and others do not thicken when it gets cold and flow and lubricate regardless of cold. I see no reason why a good light synthetic would not work in guns. Regular motor oil? Not in my guns. It's been below zero nearly everyday for weeks.

sauer1911
February 8, 2014, 12:00 PM
I just started using a mix of oil and tranny fluid, all synthetic materials.

The mix is 50% ATF with Dexron-VI, 25% 5-30w Mobil 1, and 25% STP additive which is T H I C K.

The oil stays where it is put and still has some viscosity, the ATF helps to clean out any and all carbon deposits. I also have some PEAK synthetic grease for sliding parts too.

It seems to be a great mix, and as long as I dont spill it, I'll have inexpensive, great homemade CLP for generations.

be safe

chicharrones
February 8, 2014, 01:00 PM
Nah...black powder, soap, water and tallow for me. That'll keep those snake-oil sales freaks from taking advantage!!!

Now that's what we need. Synthetic tallow for AR use! :D

Jackal
February 8, 2014, 02:25 PM
If its good enough to lube a camshaft, its good enough for any gun.

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