Making my own caps


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raa-7
February 15, 2014, 09:59 PM
I've been making my own percussion caps ever since shooting supplies started to get scarce. You guys are the ones that got me started in all this Bp shooting, and ever since I got started I've enjoyed it so much that I hardly even shoot a cartridge gun any more !(except for my shot guns) Anyhow I was running short on caps one day and couldn't find any at all, and decided that I better come up with something so I could keep shooting my BP guns. Now these caps are not precision quality,and you'll see that in the pictures but they damn sure work good and honestly I really haven't had any misfires with them ! I would say like one out of every 50 might be a little weak because of a weak paper cap. But for paper caps that's great ! I also use the red plastic caps. You can buy them in the dollar stores cheap (Shhhh ! don't say it loud the companies will probably raise the prices on them :p) These plastic caps will fit in place of a #11 , you just have to push them on a little bit, and they wont fall off either. If you have any doubt what so ever about one working,, (here's the trick) take that little piece of white paper out of it with a straight pin. It's not hard to do or even that time consuming, and if you think it is,, well,, your playing in the wrong hobby ! By taking the little piece of paper out that makes for a sure path for the spark to get to the powder ! I did a little experimenting with this too and that paper will clog up the little flash hole going through the nipple. The compound in these plastic caps are more than likely corrosive but I've been using the heck out of them and as long as I keep everything clean after shooting they have not caused -ANY- kind of damage in the chambers on revolvers or in the barrels in any of my guns. I'll continue to keep using these until we can get percussion caps like we used to.(Hopefully that won't be too far into the future ! The paper caps I get are also from these Dollar stores. I don't remember what I payed for them,I found a good deal one day at a Dollar General that was moving or whatever they were doing and for 1.50 a pack of I think 6 little boxes with 5 little rolls per box and I bought 10 packs of them. Honestly ,I had to leave a few in case some little kid wanted some :) I remember the caps we had when I was a kid and they were like fire crackers going off ! You guys that grew up in the late 50's -60's know about those, and even in the 70's I think. But I remember hitting single rolls with my dads little sledge hammer with a welding mask on and gloves! That was fun back then ! So any how, two per cap on those. (paper caps). I make my own caps with aluminum cans. Soda cans, beer cans ,and they work great ! I tried aluminum from those Turkey roasting pans (the softer aluminum) but they fly apart too easily and wont direct the spark charge through the nipple as well as the stronger aluminum caps I make. I know that this all seems a little involved and all, but you'll see how much faster you'll get once you have it "down pat" . What I do is make a few each day when I have time. I'll even be makin caps while I'm on THR trying to find out where to buy some caps. I don't know Exactly what they put in the real ones but when I do find out I will see what I can do. Its only a matter of time. It's all "trade secret" and I know some of it, but not all of it. Here's some pictures of my caps and how I make them up. It's easy once you get into it. I did not make them fast at first,, it takes a little practice !And I know many won't even bother with all this but it's paying off for me. Anyone that does give it a try and wants to know more just private message me and I'll be glad to tell you what I know ! Oh the metal rod I use is the perfect size rod for making the #11 size ones. It's that rod in your bathroom sink that pushes the stop for the drain ! One of these days I'll make a good proper punch out of maybe....some pliers ?? Thanks for reading all this :D http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1278_zps8986e15f.jpg This is the punch I use to make the aluminum circles with, it's from one of those little brass, door scopes you look through to see who's knocking :p it's part of one actually.You can use a .45 acp shell if you sharpen the opening.Thats what I started with ! The bolt is just so you can hit it with a small hammer. http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1280_zpsd9e1e03a.jpg http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1281_zpsabebcbac.jpg Once you punch out a bunch of your aluminum circles then you take 3-4 of them and cut them with a scissor like this - sorry about the picture but you leave enough in the middle of it so it has some meat left so it doesn't fall apart when you push it into the hole on your red oak block. Any hard wood block will work fine. I'll let you know what size bit I use,I have to look.. http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1282_zps3934e553.jpg http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1285_zps66a1df5f.jpg http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1286_zps950ad764.jpg http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1287_zps08e16610.jpg my camera is from the 1800's so bear with me ! http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1288_zpsbfb829a7.jpg Once you push the piece of aluminum circle piece in the hole and it forms into a cap,, take a pair of tweezers and what I do is scrape the side of it and it comes right out .Now you have good solid caps :Dhttp://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1289_zpscedfe7d0.jpg I know my camera is bad but I had to show this. The caps are really consistent in shape and size ! and like I said I tried softer aluminum but its not as good,thats why they use copper,its perfect. That's enough blurry pictures but you can basically see how it's done.Thanks for putting up with me and my camera ! :D

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jgh4445
February 15, 2014, 10:13 PM
Thanks for sharing that. I think its great and could come in really handy if the cap situation doesn't improve soon. So...you put two of the paper caps in each tin cup huh?

Captain*kirk
February 15, 2014, 10:28 PM
This is WAAY cool. I believe the reason Forster discontinued making the Tap-O-Cap was the roll caps made in China today (DEFINITELY not the Kilgore's of our youth...Amen to that, brother!) are both weak and corrosive.As a side note, the red plastic caps are also made in China and are also supposed to be corrosive as well (never tried first-hand)
I love your ingenuity in making the caps themselves. Who needs a Tap-O-Cap? All we need is a better priming compound or a source for decent roll caps.
Thanks for posting this. Great explanation even if the pix are a bit blurry!

DoubleDeuce 1
February 15, 2014, 11:02 PM
Very cool idea. Now we just need the formula for the ignition material.:cool:

elhombreconnonombre
February 15, 2014, 11:04 PM
Great idea for metal caps. Yall might look for roll caps made in Germany...about .02 grains of powder per cap or make your own priming powder from strike anywhere match tips. Either way this stuff is called Armstrongs mixture, a mixture of potassium perchlorate and red phosphorous...corossive you bet, but nothing that a good cleaning cant handle.

elhombreconnonombre
February 15, 2014, 11:11 PM
After fulminate of mercury went by the wayside, primer material for percussion caps and cartridge primers was potassium perchlorate, which has now been replaced by lead styphanate.

elhombreconnonombre
February 15, 2014, 11:36 PM
Try crushing the very ends of the strike anywhere matches in a pestle and bowl thingie adding some alcohol. Mix it up until you have a slurry. Using an eye dropper put a drop or two of the slurry into your aluminum cup and let dry. Your mileage may vary.

elhombreconnonombre
February 15, 2014, 11:40 PM
BTW if you use roll caps get a 1/8" od ticket punch to make your own little caps for your cups.

Zarthab
February 16, 2014, 12:53 AM
So who's brave enough to give it a try, http://www.powerlabs.org/chemlabs/lead_styphnate.htm

raa-7
February 16, 2014, 01:28 AM
Thanks for sharing that. I think its great and could come in really handy if the cap situation doesn't improve soon. So...you put two of the paper caps in each tin cup huh? Yep two caps , just punch em out with a paper punch that's all. I make these, a few each day so they add up.

raa-7
February 16, 2014, 01:50 AM
BTW if you use roll caps get a 1/8" od ticket punch to make your own little caps for your cups. Yeah I use a hole punch for the paper caps and put two paper caps per aluminum cup. With these you have to be careful too, just like anything with BP shooting because if one flies apart when its fired. It doesn't take much for that to happen. I wont put 4 caps in one because of that. Yeah,, your eyes might be protected but you'll get shrapnel in your face for sure. I hope the situation with the caps not being in stock will get better !

Skinny 1950
February 16, 2014, 03:11 AM
I tried using the red plastic caps with an 1851 revolver and it went off as I was capping it, shaved some lead off the ball and hurt my finger..good thing I was pointing downrange and there was nobody next to me. I quit using them because it was a really unpleasant experience.

Malachi Leviticus Blue
February 16, 2014, 09:25 AM
I tried using the red plastic caps with an 1851 revolver and it went off as I was capping it...

I've heard second hand info of a guy who knows a guy type of story of the same thing so I've never tried the plastic caps.

I guess it would be somewhat safer in an inline like a Tingle Pistol.

Patocazador
February 16, 2014, 09:49 AM
Thanks for posting this. I currently have ~1200 caps on hand so won't need any for awhile but if they stay scarce, I'll be pulling this thread up and trying it for myself.

Reading this makes me ashamed for cussing because my CCI caps don't fit any of my guns' nipples good. A little squeezing is a lot easier than making my own would be.

raa-7
February 16, 2014, 10:24 AM
Yeah some times I would complain about them too not fitting some guns and pushing them on more and more :p and it's a wonder I haven't set any off, but I'm careful about it.

raa-7
February 16, 2014, 05:18 PM
Here's a "Tap O cap" produced cap http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40320&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1372960103 Honestly I like my caps better, they're a lot tighter. I would still like to get a Tap O cap if I can ever find one .

Pete D.
February 17, 2014, 08:37 AM
I like your idea and how you made it happen. Very nice.
I have a Tap-o-cap on the shelf and a supply of European caps....should I ever need them. But...I may just go ahead and copy your idea in any case.
Questions: what is the diameter of the disc before it gets put into the red oak block? Copper? What gauge sheet did you use?

Also: thanks for that info about strike anywhere match tips and alcohol.
Pete

raa-7
February 17, 2014, 10:41 AM
I like your idea and how you made it happen. Very nice.
I have a Tap-o-cap on the shelf and a supply of European caps....should I ever need them. But...I may just go ahead and copy your idea in any case.
Questions: what is the diameter of the disc before it gets put into the red oak block? Copper? What gauge sheet did you use?

Also: thanks for that info about strike anywhere match tips and alcohol.
Pete I use aluminum from any soda/beer/juice can that's made of aluminum. 99% are the same gauge (thickness) and you can also use copper sheet of the same gauge (not sure exactly but I'll post that ) I started doing this a couple of years ago when I saw that something was wrong with the way supplies were not in stock every where. I'll be damned if I cant have a way to fire my guns.The size of the discs are .455 ,and I used to use a sharpened/beveled .45acp casing (make sure the primer is spent) and The thickness is 0.005" on the aluminum from the cans ,so that should be fairly easy to find on -line. I'm going to do some serious experimenting with fabricating a tap o cap, only mine will produce a much neater/tight cap like what we're used to. I have been looking for a long time for a tap o cap and I will somehow find one so if you hear of one please let me know. Also you can send me private messages if you have any questions about making the caps this way or any questions you have . I also make wads/over the powder wads with a punch that works great if you want to see them let me know,it's a lot cheaper than buying those 40-50 dallar punches(after S&H). I make everything that I use for BP shooting except for lead ! for ammo, I can only buy that or find it I cant make it :p Thanks for the thumbs up on the idea about the caps. -ron raa-7

MCgunner
February 17, 2014, 03:51 PM
Years ago I bought and still have a Tap-O-Cap. They work on my ROA, but not on my piettas. Could probably drill out the nipples, but haven't messed with it.

I see these exploading targets and wonder if the stuff in them might work in a cap? Anybody know anything on this?

robhof
February 17, 2014, 08:43 PM
The exploding targets are tannerite; 555 fertilizer and aluminum powder, it's called a binary as it's made from 2 stable components. It usually requires a lot of pressure to cause detonation, maybe too much for hammer detonation and getting mixture right for tiny amounts and stable may be a problem. Most tannerite targets are mixed just prior to use, don't know about the storage life after mixing.

celem
February 17, 2014, 09:10 PM
I applaud your ingenuity. I am quite interested in what you have accomplished.

BowerR64
February 18, 2014, 12:45 AM
Try crushing the very ends of the strike anywhere matches in a pestle and bowl thingie adding some alcohol. Mix it up until you have a slurry. Using an eye dropper put a drop or two of the slurry into your aluminum cup and let dry. Your mileage may vary.
Hey what if you could just add to those plastic caps you can get at walmart? The toy gun caps? I figured they were just a little soft on their ignition to ignite our charge but i never thought to try and bump it up that could make them a little more reliable.

I went to walmart today and they had a row of stuff on clearance and those red ring caps were some of the items on clearance.

If i couldnt get any caps that would be my go to

Smokin'Joe
February 18, 2014, 02:03 AM
Prime the nipples with a little black powder or 777 and those toy caps will ignite the charge.

ofitg
February 18, 2014, 04:01 AM
I see these exploading targets and wonder if the stuff in them might work in a cap? Anybody know anything on this?

MCgunner, if you want to mix your own primer compound, check out the potassium chlorate mixtures. The chemicals are readily available - weigh out the dry ingredients, stir in some denatured alcohol, and dispense the sludge into the Tap-O-Cap hulls. The alcohol will evaporate overnight, and the caps will be ready to use.

raa-7
February 18, 2014, 10:43 PM
I went and picked up some copper sheet 12"X 30" .005 thick , same as the aluminum cans but a little softer.I punched out one row and made 22 caps. So making 22 percussion caps per row, with 72 rows, that's 1584 caps ! But that copper sheet is $10 and the cans I get for free. I just wanted to compare the copper one's to the aluminum ones. As far as making them its easier with the copper. IDC either way,, I just don't want to run out :D

damoc
February 18, 2014, 10:54 PM
MCgunner, if you want to mix your own primer compound, check out the potassium chlorate mixtures. The chemicals are readily available - weigh out the dry ingredients, stir in some denatured alcohol, and dispense the sludge into the Tap-O-Cap hulls. The alcohol will evaporate overnight, and the caps will be ready to use.
DONT EVER MESS WITH HOMEBREWING PRIMING COMPOUNDS

The above is good advice ignore it at your own peril

ofitg
February 18, 2014, 11:50 PM
I went and picked up some copper sheet 12"X 30" .005 thick , same as the aluminum cans but a little softer.I punched out one row and made 22 caps. So making 22 percussion caps per row, with 72 rows, that's 1584 caps ! But that copper sheet is $10 and the cans I get for free. I just wanted to compare the copper one's to the aluminum ones. As far as making them its easier with the copper. IDC either way,, I just don't want to run out
Today 01:01 AM


raa-7, I would like to try your homebrew cap-forming idea. Can you tell us, what size hole did you drill in the wood block? And what is the diameter of the rod you use to push the disc into the hole? Thanks

raa-7
February 19, 2014, 02:34 PM
.180" on the rod and I drill the hole with a bit that's a #7 I got from my tap n drll set which is 1/4" . After you drill the hole, ream it out by using the rod until you can push a aluminum disk into it. Like I said in my lengthy post, it takes a little practice and don't give up on it, once you get good at making the caps you can make them pretty fast. I can make about 6 per min. if I want. 1. Punch out the disks. 2. cut with a small pair of scissors, like in the picture. 3. Center the disk over the hole and with the rod on it, use the palm of your hand to push the disc into the hole. Now , when the disk is formed to that hole,, before you take the rod out, give the rod a few taps with a small hammer (like picture) or you can use something else if you don't have a small hammer. This draws the "skirt" of the cap tightly around the rod. Then get the cap out with a tweezers. You have to open your tweezers wide and put one tip of the tweezer up against the side of the cap,,then GRAB with a little pressure and it should come right out. Everything will get easier and easier as you go.The hole.will produce caps better and better as you go. If you have any more questions just ask :Dhttp://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1328_zps8fa23cbe.jpg See the scrape marks from the tweezers ? You can also drill a smaller hole on the opposite side to pop the caps out also ! I don't know why the picture is rotated like that because it's not like that when I posted it. http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1331_zps143f84ab.jpg Here's a few copper caps. I like these better,but they are a little softer. We'll see how good they work. I have my very own "Press A Cap" (what I'm calling it ) in the making ! It's made of steel and should be more precise so maybe I'll get it to form better quality caps ! I'll post it in the futre :D

elhombreconnonombre
February 19, 2014, 04:21 PM
If you want to try filling these DIY caps with the strike anywhere Match primer, it is much easier to use an empty plastic pistol primer tray. Tale a piece of double sided tape and put it on the back of the plástic holder to adhere to your work surface. Use your eyedropper and put a drop or two of your primer slurry into the cup and let dry.
PS you might even try reloading spent cartidge primer cups the same way. Remove the anvil from the spent primer, hammer out the dent from the firing pin dent, reload the primer, and reinstall the anvil. As always, wear appropriate safety gear, and your mileage may vary.

Big Al Mass
February 19, 2014, 04:53 PM
I just got an idea while reading this. Make up a block that had 6 holes in it for 6 nipples of the gun you want to make caps for. This block goes on an arbor press of some kind. Positioned under the block is another block with 6 corresponding holes of the proper dimensions. You place 6 discs of suitable material (copper, beverage can metal) over each hole and lower the nipple block, and presto! 6 caps at once. If you are mechanically inclined enough, maybe some kind of machine could be made up that stamps the discs, cuts the notches, and forms them into the finished caps. I wish I was a tool and die maker.

What do you guys think?

BowerR64
February 19, 2014, 07:07 PM
.180" on the rod and I drill the hole with a bit that's a #7 I got from my tap n drll set which is 1/4" . After you drill the hole, ream it out by using the rod until you can push a aluminum disk into it. Like I said in my lengthy post, it takes a little practice and don't give up on it, once you get good at making the caps you can make them pretty fast. I can make about 6 per min. if I want. 1. Punch out the disks. 2. cut with a small pair of scissors, like in the picture. 3. Center the disk over the hole and with the rod on it, use the palm of your hand to push the disc into the hole. Now , when the disk is formed to that hole,, before you take the rod out, give the rod a few taps with a small hammer (like picture) or you can use something else if you don't have a small hammer. This draws the "skirt" of the cap tightly around the rod. Then get the cap out with a tweezers. You have to open your tweezers wide and put one tip of the tweezer up against the side of the cap,,then GRAB with a little pressure and it should come right out. Everything will get easier and easier as you go.The hole.will produce caps better and better as you go. If you have any more questions just ask :D See the scrape marks from the tweezers ? You can also drill a smaller hole on the opposite side to pop the caps out also ! I don't know why the picture is rotated like that because it's not like that when I posted it. http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/ra-63/100_1331_zps143f84ab.jpg Here's a few copper caps. I like these better,but they are a little softer. We'll see how good they work. I have my very own "Press A Cap" (what I'm calling it ) in the making ! It's made of steel and should be more precise so maybe I'll get it to form better quality caps ! I'll post it in the futre :D

Cool you figured out the macro setting! that image looks much better

tpelle
February 19, 2014, 08:17 PM
So if I understand this right, you cut four little radial slits in the aluminum disk so that, when you press the disk into the hardwood block, the slits allow the skirt that you are forming to overlap itself.

Actually this looks better than the caps from the Tap-O-Cap, as I would be concerned about the "pleats" in the skirt allowing gasses from the adjacent fired cap from migrating up the pleat and firing the next cap "out of battery". The overlap would seem to help prevent this.

I like this idea. I predict a trip to the hardware store and the Dollar store in my future.

4v50 Gary
February 19, 2014, 10:16 PM
Kudos!

I wanted to make a Tap-O-Cap, but don't have time. I made a jig for hammering out brass patchboxes and am currently making a tool to separate an action from stock that has just been glass bedded. After that it's a jig for reassembling a trigger group.

elhombreconnonombre
February 20, 2014, 01:32 AM
Further thoughts on this great idea: Take a piece of steel, machine a shallow circular área the size of the cut out disk. Make a tool with this same diameter with 4 cutting teeth.On the same piece of steel drill your cap sized hole with another smaller hole thru the steel plate and machine a shallow circular área like you did with the other One. Put your disk in the first "jig" depression and use a hammer and your cutter tool to accurately make the 4 cuts in the disc. Pop it out and place the cut Disk into the second "jig" depression/hole to make the cup
As I write and think further about this you could probably do this with a single machined depression and hole, with the cutter actually center drilled for the cap forming punch. Make the four cuts first with the cutter tool then insert your punch through the center of the cutter tool. After you punched out a bunch of caps, out then in in in your empty pistol primer carrier tray, drop in your DIY primer slurry and let dry. If you are worried abut correct fit or errant sparks escaping through overlap of the 4 "petals" of the cap use a small piece of 1/4" od x .170"id aquarium tubing to secure the cap and "seal" it. Such a device would ensure reproducible and accurate results.

raa-7
February 20, 2014, 01:46 PM
Further thoughts on this great idea: Take a piece of steel, machine a shallow circular área the size of the cut out disk. Make a tool with this same diameter with 4 cutting teeth.On the same piece of steel drill your cap sized hole with another smaller hole thru the steel plate and machine a shallow circular área like you did with the other One. Put your disk in the first "jig" depression and use a hammer and your cutter tool to accurately make the 4 cuts in the disc. Pop it out and place the cut Disk into the second "jig" depression/hole to make the cup
As I write and think further about this you could probably do this with a single machined depression and hole, with the cutter actually center drilled for the cap forming punch. Make the four cuts first with the cutter tool then insert your punch through the center of the cutter tool. After you punched out a bunch of caps, out then in in in your empty pistol primer carrier tray, drop in your DIY primer slurry and let dry. If you are worried abut correct fit or errant sparks escaping through overlap of the 4 "petals" of the cap use a small piece of 1/4" od x .170"id aquarium tubing to secure the cap and "seal" it. Such a device would ensure reproducible and accurate results. I've tried the little pieces of tubing, cut to the length of the cap and it works good and with the caps I make there's no gases escaping that I can really detect being that I get nearly 100% ignition.

raa-7
February 20, 2014, 01:55 PM
Better, more precise design in the making :rolleyes: The wooden block works well but steel is much better. I'll get this thing made..

MCgunner
February 20, 2014, 04:01 PM
MCgunner, if you want to mix your own primer compound, check out the potassium chlorate mixtures. The chemicals are readily available - weigh out the dry ingredients, stir in some denatured alcohol, and dispense the sludge into the Tap-O-Cap hulls. The alcohol will evaporate overnight, and the caps will be ready to use.

Very interesting, thanks. Time to google. :D

MCgunner
February 20, 2014, 06:45 PM
DONT EVER MESS WITH HOMEBREWING PRIMING COMPOUNDS

The above is good advice ignore it at your own peril

After doing some google research, I came to the same conclusion.

raa-7
February 20, 2014, 09:47 PM
Kudos!

I wanted to make a Tap-O-Cap, but don't have time. I made a jig for hammering out brass patchboxes and am currently making a tool to separate an action from stock that has just been glass bedded. After that it's a jig for reassembling a trigger group. It sounds like your time is well spent doing what you enjoy also. And the time goes by soo fast when we're doing things we like. I want to make so many things for BP shooting including rifles, which I would like to do, soon after I move, and I really don't want to start any serious projects like that until I do . Your projects sound pretty interesting. Let us know how they come out :)

ofitg
February 21, 2014, 02:24 AM
Quote:
DONT EVER MESS WITH HOMEBREWING PRIMING COMPOUNDS

The above is good advice ignore it at your own peril

After doing some google research, I came to the same conclusion


I started mixing my own primer compound for Tap-O-Cap hulls about 15 years ago. It's a little bit late to be talking me out of it :)

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