Showing off some leather (pic heavy)


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BHPshooter
April 7, 2014, 04:28 PM
I haven't been around very regularly lately, but I thought I'd share some pics of what's been occupying my time these days.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197087&stc=1&d=1396902184

This one was for a friend's Glock 21 with a "clipdraw" attachment.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197088&stc=1&d=1396902184

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197090&stc=1&d=1396902331

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197091&stc=1&d=1396902331

To be continued...

Wes

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BHPshooter
April 7, 2014, 04:31 PM
And some more...

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197092&stc=1&d=1396902553

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197093&stc=1&d=1396902553

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197094&stc=1&d=1396902604

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197095&stc=1&d=1396902604

Wes

1KPerDay
April 7, 2014, 04:38 PM
Dang tasty. I'd like to see some more pics of that HP also. ;)

The Lone Haranguer
April 7, 2014, 06:41 PM
Like. :)

doubleh
April 8, 2014, 10:32 AM
Very nice.

Greg528iT
April 8, 2014, 04:19 PM
nice

Drail
April 8, 2014, 05:22 PM
You have wonderful skills. That looks like pretty heavy duty gear.

smovlov
April 8, 2014, 05:48 PM
Nice. What brand and weight of leather is that? Also what dye did you use? I've been thinking of doing a black holster and dying it with vinagaroon dye. The tooling looks awesome! Nice work!

BHPshooter
April 9, 2014, 09:52 AM
Thanks for the kind words, folks. :)

Dang tasty. I'd like to see some more pics of that HP also. ;)

My pleasure. :)
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197133&stc=1&d=1397050640
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197134&stc=1&d=1397050640

Nice. What brand and weight of leather is that? Also what dye did you use? I've been thinking of doing a black holster and dying it with vinagaroon dye. The tooling looks awesome! Nice work!

The leather is Hermann Oak 7/8oz. The dye is Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. I haven't messed around with vinegaroon yet. It's more of a chemical process than a dye -- it actually causes the leather itself to turn black. If you don't correctly return the leather to a neutral pH after the process is complete, it can ruin the leather.

Perhaps I'll try it someday, but until then, I've been very happy with Fiebing's Pro Oil series.

Wes

Iggy
April 9, 2014, 09:57 AM
That's some pretty fine hide bendin' right there. Very nice.

BobWright
April 9, 2014, 10:27 AM
What are those blue colored grips? Ratlesnake skin, or lizard skin, dyed blue? Some other reptile?

Bob Wright

Arkansas Paul
April 9, 2014, 11:35 AM
Very nice leather work.
How much time do you invest in each one?

BHPshooter
April 9, 2014, 02:24 PM
What are those blue colored grips? Ratlesnake skin, or lizard skin, dyed blue? Some other reptile?

They're actually gray/black G10 composite, the lighting in those pics does make it look sort of bluish, though. :) They're available at Mil-Tac Knife & Tool (http://store.mil-tac.com/pistolgrips-g10.aspx).

How much time do you invest in each one?

If it's a pattern that I've already made, I can usually have it cut, stitched, molded, and dried in 2 days. Dye takes another day, and the acrylic finish takes 2 or 3 days, generally.

It would go much faster if I didn't stitch by hand, but leather sewing machines cost a lot of money. ;)

Wes

DIY_guy
April 9, 2014, 02:58 PM
Beautiful work. Well done.

DaddioDan
April 9, 2014, 07:45 PM
Beautiful work. I'm really impressed with the sharp lines - both front and especially back - of the HP's contours you've boned into the leather. Meticulous attention to detail! Well done.

srtolly
April 9, 2014, 07:48 PM
Nice work, I'd like to pick you brain a little some time. Here is some of mine, feel free to offer suggestions.

197139

BHPshooter
April 11, 2014, 02:03 AM
Nice work, I'd like to pick you brain a little some time. Here is some of mine, feel free to offer suggestions.

I certainly don't consider myself an expert, but I'd be happy to share what I've learned.

A couple thing that really help: use an edge creaser/groover to mark the outer stitch line, and use pencil to mark the stich lines along the top and bottom edges of the gun. Then use an overstitch wheel to mark where to put your stitch holes.

Are you drilling or punching the holes for the stitches?

Wes

srtolly
April 11, 2014, 10:03 AM
I do both depending on the thickness of the leather. When I drill I use the smallest bit I can, I use a flat chisel when I punch them.

Just ordered a grover and edge beveler. I do use an over stitch wheel to mark for holes.

What do you use for needles and thread?

BHPshooter
April 11, 2014, 11:00 AM
I do both depending on the thickness of the leather. When I drill I use the smallest bit I can, I use a flat chisel when I punch them.

Just ordered a grover and edge beveler. I do use an over stitch wheel to mark for holes.

Also, look into getting an awl with a diamond-shaped blade. It's the only thing I've found that gives the stitching a chance of looking good. The awl doesn't remove any material, and the hole will close around the stitch. With practice, it will also give you that machine-like zig-zag pattern, too.

For holsters, the small blade is what you need. I have bent an awl blade before on REALLY stiff leather, so I prefer the ones that let you change blades.

One of my best investments was this book (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/61944-00.aspx). Not only does it teach how to make your stitching look really good, it's also probably the fastest method.

What do you use for needles and thread?

I just use no-frills saddlery needles, size 000. For thread, I have tried several different kinds. I like nylon better than polyester. I haven't messed with natural fibers like linen... it has shown to be inferior to polyester and nylon in every regard (strength, rot resistance, etc.). CCW holsters probably don't need the strength, but they do need rot resistance.

This thread (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/lacing/threads-sinews/1205-036.aspx) is some of the best stuff I've encountered. It's given me some great results.

I've got a major migraine this morning, so I'm having trouble keeping a train of thought. But if you have more questions, please feel free to ask. :)

Wes

srtolly
April 11, 2014, 11:30 AM
I've been using mostly stuff available from hobby lobby and learning a lot but the leather pretty much sucks but its cheap to learn with. I'm going to order that book as soon as I have some cash. I would like to get to a point where I can sell some of my work.

ETA: Do you do any videos? I have a channel and do some leather work but mostly gun stuff. Fatmantolly is the channel if you're interested.

BHPshooter
April 12, 2014, 04:44 PM
I've been using mostly stuff available from hobby lobby and learning a lot but the leather pretty much sucks but its cheap to learn with. I'm going to order that book as soon as I have some cash. I would like to get to a point where I can sell some of my work.

I haven't seen what kind of leather stuff Hobby Lobby carries (in fact, I never even knew they did!), but I've found that most leather out there is pretty crappy. Just about anything you get from Tandy will suck also. Their Royal Meadow leather is pretty decent, but happens to cost more than Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, which are both about as good as it gets.

It's good to learn on cheaper leather. I still do my prototyping on less expensive stuff... it makes more sense to make your mistakes on 3.99/sq-ft leather than Hermann Oak, which costs 3 or 4 times more.

However, once you've got the basics down, that cheaper leather can hold you back. Example: I made one holster out of cheaper leather, then 2 days later I made my first one with Hermann Oak... it looked like I had gained 6 months of experience between the two. That first picture I posted? Those were my first 2 holsters made with Hermann Oak. Good leather plays a huge part in making your work look good.

ETA: Do you do any videos? I have a channel and do some leather work but mostly gun stuff. Fatmantolly is the channel if you're interested.

I don't have any videos. Even if I had the stuff to make and edit videos, I don't know who would watch them. I'll check out your channel, though. :)

Wes

srtolly
April 12, 2014, 07:09 PM
I watch a lot of leather working videos. I found that my cell phone takes better video than my camera. Editing software is built into windows. I appreciate any criticism as well.

srtolly
April 14, 2014, 12:43 AM
BHPshooter, I just ordered the book you recommended. Thanks.

BHPshooter
April 15, 2014, 01:33 AM
BHPshooter, I just ordered the book you recommended. Thanks.

No problem! Feel free to message me if you ever have any questions. There are also a TON of folks who can help you out on the Leatherworker.net forums. ;)

Wes

saltydog452
April 15, 2014, 01:32 PM
I like it. But for ssome of us whose manly body profile leans more to pear shaped and 'squishy'.

That said, a taller fat tab, (AKA 'sweat tab'), would be a good thing. As would a 'wing' of sorts that'd prevent the bottom of the leather from pinching the rt. cheek when seating.

Hopefully my comment is read in the spirit that was intended.

salty

srtolly
April 15, 2014, 07:51 PM
I like it. But for ssome of us whose manly body profile leans more to pear shaped and 'squishy'.

That said, a taller fat tab, (AKA 'sweat tab'), would be a good thing. As would a 'wing' of sorts that'd prevent the bottom of the leather from pinching the rt. cheek when seating.

Hopefully my comment is read in the spirit that was intended.

salty

Being on the pear shaped side myself I can see where you're coming from. This is why I prefer to go OWB. Much more comfy but then open carry is permitted in Minnesota.

That being said it is also why I start making my own holsters. Custom fit for pear shaped, squishy guys.

BHPshooter
April 16, 2014, 12:30 AM
I like it. But for ssome of us whose manly body profile leans more to pear shaped and 'squishy'.

That said, a taller fat tab, (AKA 'sweat tab'), would be a good thing. As would a 'wing' of sorts that'd prevent the bottom of the leather from pinching the rt. cheek when seating.

Hopefully my comment is read in the spirit that was intended.

salty

Believe me, I totally understand, and I'm sympathetic. I have made such modifications for customers. In fact, I'm shipping one tomorrow for a gent that wanted the body shield to cover the entire hammer of a cocked and locked BHP. I call it the "love handle saver." :D

Thanks for the comments! :)
Wes

srtolly
April 16, 2014, 01:28 AM
Believe me, I totally understand, and I'm sympathetic. I have made such modifications for customers. In fact, I'm shipping one tomorrow for a gent that wanted the body shield to cover the entire hammer of a cocked and locked BHP. I call it the "love handle saver." :D

Thanks for the comments! :)
Wes

Have any pics of that one?

BHPshooter
April 16, 2014, 04:20 PM
Have any pics of that one?

Certainly. It's based on the pancake in picture #1, but altered to ride 3/4" higher, and has the aforementioned extended body shield.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197378&stc=1&d=1397679464

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=197379&stc=1&d=1397679478

Wes

Red Cent
April 26, 2014, 07:56 PM
BHP, the vinagroon leather needs a bath in baking soda and water after the vinagroon bath. Immediately after is fine because you ain't gonna wash that stuff out of the leather. Without the necessary baking soda bath, the leather will destroy the finish on the gun in a short time.

BHPshooter
May 6, 2014, 08:57 PM
BHP, the vinagroon leather needs a bath in baking soda and water after the vinagroon bath. Immediately after is fine because you ain't gonna wash that stuff out of the leather. Without the necessary baking soda bath, the leather will destroy the finish on the gun in a short time.



I've read about it, I just don't really want to mess with it right now. I might experiment with it at some point.



I have to be honest, a big part of my reluctance is that I hate the smell of vinegar. The thought of working with it or around it isn't appealing to me.



I know a lot of people turn to it because they don't like working with black dye, but I have had no such problems. Maybe it is just the pictures I've seen, but it also doesn't seem to produce a very deep black color, either.



Like I said, I'll probably try it eventually, but I've had no pressing need as yet.



Wes

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