Help me stop rust.


May 29, 2014, 02:32 PM
I have a Norinco JW-15 that has had a light rust problem on the top of the barrel for as long as I can remember. I'm about to paint the rifle camo with spray paint, but I want to make sure it doesn't continue to rust underneath. Any advice would be appreciated.

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May 30, 2014, 10:47 AM
Some gentle rubbing with 0000 (four zero) steel wool and lots of light oil will remove the current rust. Then keep it oiled to prevent the rust returning.

May 30, 2014, 03:13 PM
I've seen some guns that seem to want to rust regardless of what precautions we take. I'm thinking that the bluing jobs were not cleaned well or the blueing salts were not passivated well enough.

I'd suggest totally degrease the barrel then swab it down with water and baking soda. Follow that with some good hot water rinsing, dry and re-oil. If the gun continues to want to rust then check your storage area and methods as it's likely related to where the gun spends most of its time.

In fact I'd START with that option instead of worrying about a possible bluing issue.

May 30, 2014, 03:33 PM
It is the only firearm I own that has had this problem. Whatever I do, the next step will be spray paint camo. I'm not trying to make it look good. It just needs to shoot straight.
I'm going to give steel wool a try. Could I just put some primer on it once most of the rust is gone?

May 30, 2014, 03:36 PM
If you are going to paint it anyway?

This is one of the only times I would recommend using Naval Jelly on a gun.

Surface prep prior to paint on rusty ships is what it was invented for.

It will remove all traces of rust, or bluing, right down to bare steel.
And the slightly etched surface it leaves is perfect for good paint adhesion.


4v50 Gary
May 30, 2014, 03:50 PM
Another vote for baking water & soda.

May 30, 2014, 05:46 PM
I have had 2 Ithaca 37's welded, one on the barrel, one on the receiver. In order to make sure the shop that had the lazer welder was able to do its job, all the rust had to be removed and down to clean bare metal.

I used Birchwood Casey's Rust and Blue remover and some very fine stainless wire brushes I got from Harbor Freight and Lowes to get down into the pits. You have to be able to get down to bare metal, before doing any kind of work or the rust will still be there.

I worked the ends of the bristles down into the pits with a circular motion so that the ends would break loose the the corrosion. BC R&B remover is a mixture of a couple different kinds of acids that attack the rust chemically. The rust will be removed. Look at the areas with a magnifying device (glass, visor etc) and eventually you will be able to see bare metal.

May 31, 2014, 02:43 AM
If you have a steel tank long enough.
De- grease the barrel and all metal with Acetone, wear latex gloves and Boil in "Distilled water " to convert the Red Rust to Black Oxcide.
Black Oxcide is Slow rust Bluing.
You have to Boil it several times, with never touching the metal with your skin, or getting any oil on the metal.
Between Boilings let the metal dry and buff off the Red rust or Black oxcide Powder that forms, with Steel wool that has been cleaned in Acetone.
Steel wool has oil on it from the maker to prevent it from rusting.
That is the common mistake people make when trying to Cold Blue guns.
They use uncleaned steel wool to buff the metal, depositing oil right back on the metal.
Metal will not blue if there is oil on it.
After several Boilings, then Oil before the last Buffing and let the oil cure into the metal overnight with out wiping it off.
In the morning when you wipe off the oil, the cloth will come out Black.
If it still shows Red Rust, then you had oil on the metal, or you didnt boil it long enough.
Regular Tap water will not work.
It has minerals in it that will CAUSE Rust. Use Distiller water.

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