Buffing down trigger serrations


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SnWnMe
April 7, 2004, 03:47 AM
My flat latcher Chief's Special's serrated trigger digs into my finger pad when I fire it DA. Repositioning my finger doesn't help, just detracts from my conditioned DA stroke.

I dulled the ridges down a bit with a nail file but it still digs. I am thinking of buffing the serrations down a bit more. The problem is, I don';t know what this will do to the case hardening?

Does anybody have any advice/insight about buffing/polishing case hardened parts?

Thanks!

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1911Tuner
April 7, 2004, 06:41 AM
Howdy SnWnMe,(I'm still tryin' to figger out the meaning behind that nic.)

Never could understand why gunmakers put those things on defensive
guns...or why Remington checkers their bolt knobs on their rifles...
A pure fighting revolver or autopistol trigger should be smooth. The serrations are better suited for target shooting...:rolleyes:

If you know somebody who has a Dremel, you can use a sanding drum attachment to smooth out the trigger. Unless you're careful and have a
steady hand, it's best done with the trigger removed because a Dremel
operates at high speed. When the drum gets traction, it has a tendency
to yank itself sideways and off the work area. A grindstone cuts too quickly and aggressively on delicate operations like this...at least for me.
Even a sanding drum can dig in quickly unless you keep it moving and
don't let it dwell for even a split second. Dremel sanding drums come in two sizes. My advice is to use the smaller one, and get two while you're
there. They wear pretty fast, and you may find that one isn't quite enough
to finish the job.

This will go through the case-hardening, but since there's no metal-to-metal
contact, it's not an issue. You'll be long gone before your finger will make a
mark on the soft stuff underneath.

If you're not a do-it-yourselfer, and prefer to take it to a smith, the job won't likely cost more than about 20 dollars, and take more than about 20 minutes. 15 years ago, I think I charged about 5 bucks for John Q. Public,
and did it for cops free while they waited.

Check your PMs

Luck!

Tuner

SnWnMe
April 7, 2004, 10:19 AM
1911 Tuner, thanks for the pointers on the Dremel sanding attachment. I think I'll put the vise to work today. I'll wrap the adjacent areas on the gun with some tape to guard against a slightly errant tool and will go to work on this trigger face.

You're right, it's so much easier to work on the trigger if I pull it out first. I really should invest in that third hand spring tool that Brownell's sells.

My username means: S&W&Me.

:D

VictorLouis
April 9, 2004, 02:58 AM
REMOVE the trigger from the gun!

An errant Dremel with most any of its various tool heads will cut through even twin layers of duct-tape before you can blink. You WILL mar the finish on your gun if you try it. It's just a matter of how BAD.:eek:

Even with the hands of a neurosurgeon, you still can't get the tool-head oriented in the way to best tackle the job. Then, you have to do the final polish finish. I use two strips of crocus cloth in finer degrees and go to it like a shoe-shiner on a pair of fine wingtips.:D

1911Tuner
April 9, 2004, 11:20 AM
Gotta go along with Victor on that advice. Besides, when takin' the bite
out of a DA revolver's trigger, it's usually the corner of the tip that gets ya
as much as anything else. Can't get to that area with the trigger in the gun
without eatin' into the inside of the guard.

Luck!

Tuner

Ken Rainey
April 9, 2004, 05:47 PM
I used a piece of sand paper just wide enough to wrap around the pad of my finger (paper long enough to hold with thumb and second finger to keep from slipping - but not wide enough to rub any of the trigger guard area) and rubbed like heck - paying most attention to the edges of the trigger - smoothed it down to where it don't 'cut' into my finger anymore.

Ken

Maddock
April 13, 2004, 12:41 AM
One technique that I’ve had success with is after roughing out the rounding and removing the serrations, to use successively finer long strips of wet paper on the trigger in a vice using the same motion as a shoe shine boy. I start with 120 and move through to 800. By varying the position of my hands I can completely round any edges. Just like 1911Tuner and VictorLouis I urge you to remove any parts from the gun before working on them. I dinged the frame of a nice Model 10 because I was in a hurry and didn’t remove the hammer before trying to bob it. It took hours to repair the damage.

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