What to look for on a used Glock


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Shmackey
December 27, 2002, 11:07 PM
Thinking about getting a used G30 and sending it in for a grip reduction--kind of a plastic project thing. (I don't really want to spend upwards of $750 on my project--hence the used model.)

I know what to look for in a used evolver (thank you, Jim March) and a used 1911, but not in a used Glock.

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J.D.Locke
December 27, 2002, 11:22 PM
Taken from www.glockfaq.com

What do I look for when buying a used Glock?
Another GREAT article contributed by [JT].

Buying A Used Glock

Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself.

Here are some tips when buying a used Glock:

* With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm

* Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price.

* Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge.

See the following links for upgrade info:
http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html
http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html

* Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm

* Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring.

* Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector.

* Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP.

* Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions.

* Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs.

* Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips.

Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on ... [pink bunny, stage left].

JT v.1.01 (c) Blue Ridge Bullseye, All Rights Reserved.
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sig970
December 27, 2002, 11:24 PM
A Sig;)

Gewehr98
December 27, 2002, 11:27 PM
http://mauser98.com/gingerglock1299-1.jpg

Shmackey
December 27, 2002, 11:51 PM
Yes, if I can find a Glock with a built-in SIG, I will buy it.

M58
December 28, 2002, 03:10 AM
Avoid any with an "E" serial number.

blades67
December 28, 2002, 03:13 AM
I'd just make sure all the parts were there. If you have a local Glock armorer you could have take a look at it first, have the owner meet you there and have it inspected before money changes hands.

eap
December 28, 2002, 09:18 AM
what blades said. most used guns i've bought were in excellent condition with few rounds fired. be leary of anybody who brings a dirty gun to sell.

Vern
December 29, 2002, 11:40 AM
Not all of the "E" serial numbered guns are "bad". And if the gun has a "1" prefix (in front of the frame serial #), then it has been replaced by Glock.

All good advice - I like taking an experienced Glock armorer to check the gun out. Usually most of the small parts that fail do so on guns with high round counts. Signs of abuse or neglet should be fairly obvious.

Shmackey
December 29, 2002, 03:00 PM
Gewehr98, I just noticed your doggie pic. I hope you're really careful about cleaners, lubes, and dirt--most of them are toxic in small amounts for little creatures.

I'm sure you probably know that already, but I've seen some bad things happen and I'd rather be redundant than see something awful happen.

tomkatz
December 29, 2002, 03:29 PM
my dog must be an anti gunner, she won't pose like that!!!....tom

faustulus
December 29, 2002, 04:48 PM
Someone to sell it too. :)

Schuey2002
December 29, 2002, 05:08 PM
Gewehr98, Which model of Glock frame is that? :D

Poohgyrr
December 29, 2002, 05:38 PM
Besides J.D.'s post, a good price, holster, belt, and ammo.

These are great pistols, ugly, but really good.

Gewehr98
December 29, 2002, 07:08 PM
It's from a gunsmith's website who isn't particularly fond of Glocks. I owned an early Glock 17 for a while. Never had the urge to own another one after I got rid of it.

I agree, I hope it's just plain plastic without anything to harm the retriever. I wouldn't let my own dog chew on something that would harm her.

I'm not even certain it is a Glock frame in that picture. Just thought it was funny.

quantico
December 29, 2002, 10:23 PM
I see a trigger in that receiver so there are springs and a connector in place as well. Not good for a dog to swallow small metal pieces...


I like glocks and sigs and HK 's and 1911's . I think I may be alone in thinking that many guns can be well made and yet different in construction.

isaidme
December 29, 2002, 10:46 PM
Glocks are great!Look at the bore and also inspect the plastic guide rod and replace with a steel one as soon as possible!

HBAR & grille
December 29, 2002, 11:11 PM
J.D.Locke thanks. makes me feel good about the Glocks I still own.

If you want to side with those on this thread who'd have you throw any Glock in the pit, DON'T BUY A GLOCK !!!

buy something more acceptable... perhaps something in beige.

otoh, a used Glock is like a used Kimber or a used SIG... know what you're about to buy...

Thank you, J.D. Locke, your advise is welcome, and wise.

emann
December 30, 2002, 01:04 AM
Just make sure it has all it's parts and it can be made to work just fine. :D

duncan
December 31, 2002, 04:20 AM
Not many things can break and if they do, usually $30 to replace.

Just make sure the frame is in good shape.

Scrap a grip reduction. Trashes the value of the gun so make sure you'll keep it.

Otherwise, it's only worth $275-300 in trade.

I'd buy it and have a Glock armorer check it out.

Shouldn't need any upgrades.

I prefer to buy used Glocks. Can save a good $100 and often get a pair of hi caps.

ThePerfectOne
December 31, 2002, 06:02 AM
what's all the fuss about the E serial number :confused:
I happen to have a Glock 17 with a serial number that begins with E :uhoh:
I bought it 5 months ago and haven't had a single problem. the gun is from the 3rd generation and even has that new locking block pin build in, something previous Glocks didn't have.
I have only fired 200 rounds trough it (I don't feel the urge to fire 100 rounds each time I go to the range, 10 will do just fine)
should I be worried :confused:

gunrunnerjohn
December 31, 2002, 03:12 PM
It's from a gunsmith's website who isn't particularly fond of Glocks. I owned an early Glock 17 for a while. Never had the urge to own another one after I got rid of it.
That picture is from SM&A, Mac Scott talks fondly about his Glock chew toy. :)

Mr. Hankey
December 31, 2002, 04:30 PM
Perfectone,

There is a tiny percentage of E series with a possible frame rail problem. Which even if it goes the pistol will still function.

Glock estimates the effected units at 1 in 25,000.

Give Glock a call, they can tell you if yours is in the questionable range.
If it is they will replace your frame for you if you want.

Gewehr98
December 31, 2002, 10:34 PM
I wasn't too sure if I wanted to put their name on that picture or not, I'd forgotten which website it came from. Even if I knew, I probably wouldn't have, for fear of them losing potential Glock business. ;)

Poohgyrr
January 1, 2003, 01:25 PM
Hey!!!

Any of youse guys dat dont like dem Glocks, jus send 'em ta us. Weel giv dem a reel gud home !!

(The used Glocks I've seen have all been great buys.)

:neener: :ar15: :what:

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