Formsby Tung Oil


PDA






loose noose
June 21, 2014, 01:35 PM
Anybody ever use this as a final finish on a gun stock? I was told that it is far superior to Tru Oil. So far I've used it on the forend of my 1897 Winchester, and two coats on the stock, and it seems to be doing a fair job in filling in the pores of the wood. I'm wondering on how many coats it is going to take to get a final finish (I'm hand rubbing it in btw)? How about the durability of the finish?

If you enjoyed reading about "Formsby Tung Oil" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
rcmodel
June 21, 2014, 02:16 PM
No.
I finished a walnut grandfather clock I built in 1980 with it though.
It's holding up well, but of course it doesn't take the beating a stock would.

It seems to me it took forever applying a lot of hand rubbed coats as it's so thin.
And it never did fill the grain much at all.
But I didn't want it too.

I'm Tru-Oil all the way on gun stocks.

rc

rondog
June 21, 2014, 02:23 PM
That Formsby's product is "Tung Oil FINISH", it's not "100% Pure Tung Oil".

The Tung Oil Finish is for furniture. The traditional oil for rifle stocks is 100% Pure Tung Oil. These are two completely different things. Not saying TOF won't work on a rifle stock, just saying it's not what you think it is, and won't produce the same results as PTO.

GBExpat
June 21, 2014, 03:37 PM
Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a thin varnish and, therefore, produces a hardshell varnish finish (akin to polyurethane) rather than the oil finish that its name suggests.

Apparently, they developed and named this product as something that produces a finish on furniture that they think looks like a real Tung Oil finish, but is easier to apply and more durable (because of the varnish).

I have used it on a couple of milsurp stocks (thinned with MS and no more than 2 coats so it doesn't look shiny/plastic) that I anticipated using in "weather". I also used it on a counter that I built for sorting critter food. On the counter it is not wearing as well as would polyurethane. On the milsurp stocks I haven't noticed any wear issues.

I have refinished dozens of milsurp stocks and, therefore, have never used Tru-Oil. If I ever refinish a commercial rifle/shotgun stock, I plan on giving Tru-Oil a try.

loose noose
June 21, 2014, 04:16 PM
Thanks folks, I generally use Tru Oil, but lately have had a hard time finding it around here. I got a bottle of Formby's Tung Oil Finish "High Gloss", at a local furniture store. It seems to take a long time to dry. After the second coat I plan on using some 0000 steel wool on it and try, try, again as the old saying goes. I wonder if I found some Tru Oil if that would rub in a lot better, or just make a mess out of it?

rcmodel
June 21, 2014, 04:43 PM
It should work.

I have used Tru-Oil on about every kind of stock finish there is for touch-up and scratch repair.

Never seen any finish it won't dry properly on.

rc

Elkins45
June 21, 2014, 04:49 PM
I did the birch stock on my old Glenfield Model 60 with Formby's Tung Oil back in the early 80's. It was still looking good when it was stolen in the early 90's.

I hope to see it again one day, although I'm sure that's just a hope.

kwg020
June 22, 2014, 01:08 PM
I have used it on Garand stocks. I used the satin finish and the stocks came out looking great. The Garands spend most of their time in the gun safe but they are still looking good 10 years later. kwg

loose noose
June 24, 2014, 06:03 PM
Well I finished the stock and the forearm, after about 10 coats, man that stuff spreads thin, but it looks really good and no runs. It seems to take forever to dry though and it is still sticky to the fingers, but not quite as bad as the Tru Oil. Seems to wash off fairly easy.

Incidentally I got the metal all polished and took it down to have it blued, can't wait to get it back, should look good as new.

200029

200030

200031

The pics don't do them justice, once I get the metal back and reassemble the gun I'll take some more pics, note the reddish color of the wood just like the original Winchester finish, that is what I was trying to depict.

aarondhgraham
June 24, 2014, 06:54 PM
True story,,,

My cousin has a wife who is very blonde,,,
My Poppa gave her a coffee table he made from driftwood.

He never put a finish on anything,,,
She asked what would be good,,,
He said, "A little tung oil."

Honest to God my friends,,,
She looked at him and said,,,
"You mean I have to lick it?"

True story,,,
Cross my heart. :o

Aarond

.

MIL-DOT
June 24, 2014, 08:23 PM
I've used both and I also prefer Tru-Oil to Formby's Tung Oil. Tru-oil coats can be added in only 2 hours, Formby's takes 12 hours, IIRC. I've had excellent results on both AK stocks and guitar necks and bodies with Tru-oil.
Also, using steel wool can leave small pieces of steel imbedded in your finish, instead, check out the white/grey 3M Scotch-brite pads. They're the same level of abrasiveness, but leave no particles.

NCsmitty
June 24, 2014, 09:29 PM
Several years ago I decided to refinish my FN Mauser 308 Norma mag stock using Formsby Tung oil, and it did take a long time to dry between coats, but it wasn't the final finish, and the final touch was 10 light coats of satin polyurethane. I was very pleased with the results.


NCsmitty

loose noose
June 24, 2014, 10:46 PM
NCsmitty, that stock is absolutely gorgeous, mine is just plain walnut, but it does have some nice grain, not anything like yours once again that stock is gorgeous.

loose noose
June 25, 2014, 12:31 PM
Below are three much better photos of the stock.

200046

200047

200048

Again I'm no photographer but the color on the photos is much closer to the real thing.

Sunray
June 25, 2014, 04:44 PM
"...The Tung Oil Finish is for furniture..." Cheap furniture. Pure Tung Oil gives a hard, waterproof finish, but it has to be applied properly. It requires several thin coats rubbed in, using a clean lint free cloth for each coat, with 24 hours drying time between coats. No slathering it on and letting it dry.
Tung Oil Finish has other stuff in it so it's more like varnish. Tru Oil is tung oil with assorted other oils in it.

1KPerDay
June 25, 2014, 05:02 PM
Looks good!

GBExpat
June 25, 2014, 05:19 PM
Tung Oil Finish has other stuff in it so it's more like varnish. The first 9 words on the back of a Formby's Tung Oil Finish can,

"Formby'sŪ Tung Oil Finish is a high-quality varnish ... "

DT Guy
June 25, 2014, 07:02 PM
I've used it extensively, although not on firearms; if it takes a long time to dry, either it's not fresh or was applied too thickly:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/larry1096/P1010002-1.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/larry1096/media/P1010002-1.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/larry1096/P1010006.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/larry1096/media/P1010006.jpg.html)


Larry

loose noose
June 25, 2014, 08:26 PM
Sorry there Sunray and GBEYPAT, I beg to differ with ya. The Formsby Tung Oil Finish I got did not come in a can, it came in a plastic bottle. The bottle stated it was not a varnish, however an oil that became extremely hard, and an excellent protectant of quality furniture. (not cheap furniture)

Granted it does take a long time to dry, however I didn't slather it on, I hand rubbed it so you could see the grain, refer to the photos. One of the things I noted it didn't run, and it wasn't as hard to clean off my fingers as Tru Oil. Incidentally the next stock I do I will use Tru Oil, as it does go on a lot quicker and dries a lot more rapidly. However, honestly, I don't see the difference between the two finishes, and several people here stated it held up really good.

BTW thank ya 1Kperday. I plan on getting the blued steel back tomorrow, and after I re-assemble it I'll post some photos of the finished product

solvability
June 25, 2014, 08:32 PM
I have used Tung oil many times and made a drying cabinet to help it setup a bit faster - I used a small fan and low wattage bulb - get the temp to 120 and low humidity. Cabinet keeps it free of dust too.

GBExpat
June 25, 2014, 09:39 PM
Sorry there Sunray and GBEYPAT, I beg to differ with ya. The Formsby Tung Oil Finish I got did not come in a can, it came in a plastic bottle. The bottle stated it was not a varnishThen it must be a new Formby's product, although I cannot imagine why they would step all over an existing product name with a different product.

BTW, the Formby's website still only shows the can:

https://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil/

Any chance that you can provide some pics of the plastic bottle and/or label?

GBExpat
June 25, 2014, 10:03 PM
From your Post#5:
I got a bottle of Formby's Tung Oil Finish "High Gloss", at a local furniture store.
Tung Oil doesn't come in High/Low/Satin/Etc Gloss versions.

Question: Is that plastic bottle branded in any way other than "Formby's", perhaps with the name of the furniture store at which you acquired it?

GBExpat
June 25, 2014, 10:13 PM
Does your bottle look like this?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/Jungesblut/Stuff/FormbyS_Tung_Oil_Finish_High_Gloss_zps494310eb.jpg

loose noose
June 25, 2014, 11:06 PM
Very similar, in fact right on the back label it clearly states "it is not a varnish, but tung oil mixed with (doesn't specify) other quality ingredients". I'll get the bottle back from a friend tomorrow and post a picture. I might also be able to get the printing on the back of the bottle. I noted you did find a bottle of the stuff and not a can.

However the fine print under the label says nothing about it being a varnish like the bottle you depicted.

Elkins45
June 25, 2014, 11:17 PM
Sorry there Sunray and GBEYPAT, I beg to differ with ya. The Formsby Tung Oil Finish I got did not come in a can, it came in a plastic bottle. The bottle stated it was not a varnish, however an oil that became extremely hard, and an excellent protectant of quality furniture. (not cheap furniture)

Granted it does take a long time to dry, however I didn't slather it on, I hand rubbed it so you could see the grain, refer to the photos. One of the things I noted it didn't run, and it wasn't as hard to clean off my fingers as Tru Oil. Incidentally the next stock I do I will use Tru Oil, as it does go on a lot quicker and dries a lot more rapidly. However, honestly, I don't see the difference between the two finishes, and several people here stated it held up really good.

BTW thank ya 1Kperday. I plan on getting the blued steel back tomorrow, and after I re-assemble it I'll post some photos of the finished product
It's a polymerizing oil, the same as Tru Oil. The smaller quantities come in plastic bottles and the larger quantities come in metal cans.

GBExpat
June 26, 2014, 08:01 AM
I noted you did find a bottle of the stuff and not a can.Interestinger & interestinger. :)

Yes, at first I was thinking that maybe it was specialty packaging for a retailer then I remembered seeing one of the Formby's products page items in a plastic bottle so I googled it (DUH!) and hit the motherload of images.

I even googled "Formsby" just to be sure there wasn't another MFR of which I was unaware. ;)

If the product is, indeed, Formby's Tung Oil, it must be very new to the market ... and I still question the "High Gloss" descriptor ... unless it is, true, polymerized Tung Oil, as Elkins45 suggested. From my reading years ago it seems to me that a polymerized Tung Oil would tend to be glossier (because it builds faster being partially polymerized) than regular Tung Oil.

I look forward to seeing a pic of that bottle.

It's sounding more & more like there is a new product on the market that many of us will want to source & try. I, for one, have always wanted to try polymerized Tung Oil, but I never could find it offered anywhere. :)

loose noose
June 26, 2014, 04:28 PM
Below are photos of the finished product, BTW I couldn't get that bottle of Formby's Tung Oil back as he wasn't home, curse of the working class I guess.

200081

200083

200084

HankB
June 26, 2014, 10:48 PM
The MSDS indicates that Formsby Tung Oil Finish is about 69% solvent - depending on the revision of the document, either mineral spirits or naphtha. That's not necessarily a bad thing, as it's usual to thin the oil down in order to get it to penetrate the wood more deeply, at least for initial coats.

Unfortunately, the MSDS doesn't list the other ingredients. The fact that it includes the word "Finish" strongly suggests some sort of varnish is included.

When I refinish a stock, I use 100% pure tung oil from Woodcraft, and thin it as much as 4:1 with mineral spirits for the first coat, which I slather on heavily for about 20 minutes before wiping off the excess. I let it dry for several days, even though I've added a little Japan drier to speed the cure. Then I apply another coat at 3:1, repeat, then 2:1, 1:1, and eventually get to pure tung oil; by that time, I'm applying it with my fingers and a few drops will cover the stock. (If I get a section that doesn't look quite right, I wet sand with tung oil as a lubricant.) I get a durable finish that's penetrated as much as practical, lightly built up on the surface, and is easily repaired.

loose noose
June 27, 2014, 11:10 AM
BTW GBEXPAT, you may be right, I went back to the furniture store where I purchased it and I did see on the bottle where it did contain varnish, therefore I stand corrected, It was Ashley's Furniture store btw. Hank B sounds like you really go to town on your stock refinishing, not sure I would want to go thru all that though. I do remember when I went thru "Industrial Arts" in high school we could refinish a stock using rotten stone process, man they came out beautiful with or without natural grain.

GBExpat
June 27, 2014, 12:39 PM
BTW GBEXPAT, you may be right, I went back to the furniture store where I purchased it and I did see on the bottle where it did contain varnish ...RATS! :( I was beginning to hope that I was going to be able to find a source for the fabled polymerized Tung Oil.

Thanks for the extra effort & update, loose noose!

Jim Watson
June 27, 2014, 01:14 PM
What of tung oil allergy?
I once read that some people are allergic to tung oil and they did not enjoy shooting a rifle made in WWII when tung oil was substituted for linseed oil.

GBExpat
June 27, 2014, 02:12 PM
What of tung oil allergy?First I have ever heard of that.

BBBBill
June 28, 2014, 04:13 PM
Allergy to tung oil is real. Google it.

Maj Dad
July 7, 2014, 03:27 PM
Some people are allergic to injectable epinephrine, a substance produced naturally by the body and the cardinal medicine for anaphylactic allergic reactions (as in the EpiPen). Go figure.

I have used both Formby's Tung Oil Finish and raw tung oil (as used to dip military stocks in during the big WW), and they are as different as BLO and raw linseed oil. I think the horse is well-beaten, so I won't elaborate on the differences, but the outcomes are indeed different. I have use Formby's finish on an old oak ice box and it is drop dead beautiful after just one coat (back in the 70's). I also used it on a couple of of GI stocks and rubbing it on in thin coats worked well, but the finish is not the original GI spec, beautiful though it may be. The raw tung oil takes forever to dry, and if you put it on in any thickness at all it will never dry and you will have to wipe it off and start over. After going through a bunch of coats, a GI birch M14 stock looks like a million bucks, and it is the GI spec finish.

Totally different finishes, and different application techniques. Honestly, I prefer Watco's Danish Oil nowadays, but I still have them all.

GBExpat
July 7, 2014, 03:53 PM
Honestly, I prefer Watco's Danish Oil nowadays, but I still have them all.Which is actually Watco Danish Oil Finish ... another of this class of products that produce a hardshell varnish finish rather than the oil finish that the name inadvertently(?) suggests.

If you enjoyed reading about "Formsby Tung Oil" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!