Removing scope with lock tite


August 4, 2014, 06:10 PM
I have had a rifle for a long time i bought at a pawn shop and the scope has been fine. Recently the scope has failed and simply will not hold zero anymore.
I was not that upset and figured it was a good time to upgrade anyways so I tried to remove the rings and it broke my alan wrench. Upon further investigation it appears there is a reddish hue on ALL of the screws, not just the base. Is there any hope for removing this? Is there any hope to remove the base screws if they are lock tite too?

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Longhorn 76
August 4, 2014, 06:15 PM
Heat up your wrench.

August 4, 2014, 08:28 PM
If they are secured with a particular grade of Loctite, it will require heat. Use a soldering iron right on the screw head. You should see a tiny puff of smoke, indicating that the Loctite has released.

August 4, 2014, 08:36 PM

Heat the screws till the LT smokes out.

IMO: Heating the wrench itself will do nothing except take the temper out of it, and make it so soft it will strip out in the screw head.

And Allen-Wrench is too small to carry any meaningful amount of heat to a screw inside a much large heat-sink like a scope ring or base.

A big soldering iron, or a tiny gas torch tip is the Only Way to do it fast enough to keep from all the heat being absorbed by the much larger scope, rings, base, and rifle receiver.


August 5, 2014, 05:07 AM
Interesting story regarding heating up Loctite screws, bolts ect..

My Son was using a propane torch to get the Loctite to release, when either the expansion of the Loctite, or internal combustion caused a rather significant explosion that sent steel shrapnel flying every where. He had some superficial cuts, steel fragments in his hands, face, and arms, and it left one of his ears ringing for weeks.

Granted, this wasn't scope rings or bases he was working on, and I don't specifically recall what the project entailed, other than it was automotive related.

In other words, wear eye protection and gloves.


phil dirt
August 5, 2014, 11:00 AM
I had an M1 carbine with the rear sight loctited in with loctite red. I finally used a heat gun that I had for removing linoleum.

August 5, 2014, 12:19 PM
Loctite is good stuff, but choose the correct grade for your intended application. You commonly hear "use the blue if you don't want to heat it for disassembly" and "use the red to really lock it in." The correct answer is to select the right grade from their broad line of products. A super high strength grade requiring heat to break loose is almost never the correct choice for scope rings and bases.

August 11, 2014, 11:51 AM
Update -

I tried using the soldering iron and had no success. In fact once I had heated one of the screw heads up for about 15 minutes, I went to try and take it out and the thread stripped. I am not sure if it is possible to remove now without drilling.
Only problem with drilling is the bottom ring serves as the base which mounts directly into the gun so if I damage the threading I will have an unusable base which is also red lock tite.
Any ideas or is this scope permanently attached?

August 13, 2014, 07:30 PM
The only advice I could add to the above:

Invert your rifle. (heat rises, even in solids)
Use a hotter soldering iron.
Leave soldering iron on screws longer.

I've mostly worked only with 242 (blue) & 271 (red), but I'm not aware of a Loctite product that will withstand heat better than steel.

August 13, 2014, 08:07 PM
If you have scope ring screws that won't come loose no matter what you do the best way to remove the rings from the scope is to use a bench grinder and grind through the screw from the side taking great care not to touch the scope with the grinder. Once you grind half way through the screw from the side it will come apart. Once both sides are free you can throw the rings in the trash. The same goes for the mount bases. Hold the base up to a bench grinder and grind through the base from the top until it takes away the head of the screw. Watch carefully as you grind to see when the head is removed so you don't go too far. You must leave enough of the stud so you can grasp it with a pair of vice grips. Once the base falls off you can grasp the remaining stud with a pair of vice grips. You will probably get only one chance with each screw stud so you must grasp it firmly the first try. Throw the base in the trash. Do not touch the receiver with the grinder or the vice grips. I've done this several times and it works great. Just take it slow with the grinding. If you're not comfortable with doing the grinding get someone to do it who knows how to work with tools.

August 13, 2014, 08:54 PM
Just drill them out now.

No sense grinding and ruining the expensive base to get them out.

You 'could have' smoked the lock-tight with a tiny acetylene torch tip like I suggested in post #4 and avoided all the problems.


August 14, 2014, 01:21 PM
RC - should have taken you advice but whats done is done.
These are not the exact rings but the setup is similar. (

As you can see the bottom rings mount act as the mount. Any way to avoid having to have to redrill and tap?
Drill out the top screws and then torch the base? Any change this will hurt the gun?

August 14, 2014, 01:26 PM
I went to try and take it out and the thread stripped.
Any way to avoid having to have the re drilled and tapped?
Not if the head of the Allen-Screw stripped out.

And for sure not if the 'thread' itself stripped out.


August 14, 2014, 01:28 PM
The base ring has not been touched. I have only tried to remove the screws holding the top ring to the bottom one.

August 14, 2014, 01:37 PM

I thought you were trying to get the base off the rifle.

But same deal.
If the Allen-Head socket is stripped out, there is not much chance of getting it out without drilling it out.

You could try driving the next size bigger metric Allen bitt in the screw head.
Or maybe a slightly larger Torx bit.


August 14, 2014, 02:36 PM
RC -

Not to beat a dead horse here but let me make sure I understand correctly.
Using a small torch to the BASE screws will not hurt the gun?

August 14, 2014, 02:39 PM
No, but you have to do it fast with a small tip acetylene torch.

You cannot do it with a propane torch ,as the heat carry's off into the receiver faster then you can heat the screw alone.

They can get the receiver too hot.


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