[dukeofurl]

I started with a G32 and a stock trigger.

Then I decided to do the 25 cent trigger job which I failed miserably at and made matters worse, I needed a whole new sear.

After that, I went to a 3.5 connector. That was nice. Then I fully polished everything. That was nicer.

Then I tried the NY2 spring with a 3.5, that was accurate - I shot IDPA with it and had nothing but 0's on the stage including a mover.

Then I decided to try cutting a sear, that went quasi blase - reset feels and sounds a LOT lighter but the pull was the same if not worse.

Now I'm experimenting with striker springs in the current IDPA gun.

Anyone have comments or suggestions on whats the best setup?

[Billmanweh]

here's a trigger pull chart showing the pull weight of different combinations

http://glockmeister.com/triggers.shtml

and if you want to go all out, check out glocktalk.com or brian enos' forums and search for reviews of Charlie Vanek's trigger jobs. they're $175, but supposed to be the best.


BTW, are you using the wolff reduced power striker spring?

[9x19]

Which part of the Glock's fire control system are you referring to as the "sear"?

I've found, for my uses, the Glock 3.5 lb connector with the standard weight, coil trigger spring, and judicious polishing of the connector, trigger bar, striker tab and firing pin safety plunger yield the best pull. (right at 4 lbs and smmmooootthhh!

[HSMITH]

I like stock 5# connector and springs with a light polish on all the contact surfaces.

[Island Beretta]

dukeofurl,

how did you find the trigger reset with the NY2 spring?

For me, minus connector with wolff reduced power trigger spring and polishing of entire trigger bar..nice but still a lot of notchiness esp. when it engages the striker block spring..

[Island Beretta]

correction..wolff reduced power striker spring..;)

[cratz2]

All I've tried is the standard G23 setup, the standard G34 setup and the G23 setup with the Ghost Rocket 3.5# connector/reset with slight polishing of the Ghost Rocket itself... Greatly preferred the Ghost Rocket and that's what I've had on both of my Glocks. I'm really surprised I don't read about more folks commenting on it as it ads a somewhat of a 'long 1911 type reset' feel to the Glock.

[MoNsTeR]

The Vanek trigger is just scary. Words fail utterly at describing it, you simply must try it.

[PO2Hammer]

I've experemented with all the combinations for the Glocks. I found anything with a 3.5 connector felt mushy with too much over-travel. NY trigger springs didn't help me. I've gone back to a standard 5.5 connector and when they're broken in or polished, they have the crispest, most predictable break with a lot less over-travel.

[dukeofurl]

Which part of the Glock's fire control system are you referring to as the "sear"?

Connector and trigger bar.

I polish the hell out of everything and once it gets broken in, its smooth but tends to be overtravely. The smoothness reduced the binding of the trigger before it broke, but it still wasnt smooth enough for me.

how did you find the trigger reset with the NY2 spring?

I was shooting 0's all day except for on the steel plates, which sucked. I hated it, it was an atrocious setup and I wouldnt recommend ANYTHING that NY state law requires to any self respecting gun nut in the country.

I may experiment with Ghost once I can get my sale tax excepmtion from the state back so I can be a dealer.

[Quack]

using the stock trigger spring (coil, not NY) take 2 coils off (or use an extra power striker spring), take a few coils off of the striker spring (or get a 4# wolff), take a few coils off of the safety plunger spring. a little JB weld in the right spot will take care of the over-travel (or use a Ghost Rocket connector).

edit: forgot to add that i am using a Lightning Strike Ti plunger and striker.

this is my old G34, but i took the trigger group out and put it in my G24

http://www.hunt101.com/img/054277.JPG

[Ken Rainey]

I have an old style NY1 and a 3.5 connector along with a polish job in my G26 that feels great. If the gun is just for punching holes in paper, then the 3.5 connector and a polish is good - but I like to practice with something closer to what I carry. My G17 is stock with a polish job - I'll probably switch that out to match the G26 soon. Of course, some people carry with the 3.5 connector and stock trigger spring and thats fine too - it's all what you get use to so you know what to expect - having cut my teeth on a revolver, I like a little more resistance during the pull.....makes my 1911 feel like it's got a 2 pound trigger after using Glocks and Smiths! I demand reliability above all else, so my striker spring stays stock - don't want to give Murphy any more of a edge than he already has.........ymmv.

Ken

[Navy joe]

I like a heavy trigger return spring, reduced striker, 3.5 connector and polishing. Right now I also have a Ti striker in my 34. It hits harder than the steel one with a lightened spring due to less inertia. I have very good strikes. Right now it is an honest 3 lbs and smooth. I can make it much lighter, next step is pre-travel and over travel stops.

My G17 is carried and is therefore much more standard, 3.5 with a stock striker spring, heavy return spring and polished. It is heavier than the 34, but feels lighter.

Truthfully, non of that matters too much, to get a Glock trigger right for me the first thing to do is take a pocket knife and reshpae the trigger face. I cut a lot of the curve out and also cut the trigger safety so that it is flush when depressed. Then I polish everything on the face smooth. The safety remains fully functional. I'd rather have a 5lb gun done like this than a 2lb gun that eats my finger.

[happyguy]

I've never been a big fan of Glock triggers but the best one I ever used was a #3.5 connecter with a NY-2 spring. The whole deal was highly polished and gave a feel similar to a Kahr trigger.

Regards,
Happyguy:D