[Steven1281]

Hi everyone, I just purchased a S&W 637 snubbie .38, and am looking for ideas on what loads would be best to accomplish getting to know this lightweight revolver at the range. I have never been a snubbie guy before (never fired one), but I've never had any issues shooting with my 9mm semi (which I reload for), so maybe I'm just listening to too many horror stories about the recoil of this little 15 oz revolver?

I have "Unique" powder on hand, and Winchester primers/new brass. I've heard all lead (non-jacketed) bullets will pull out of the casing and jam things up, so I did buy some Sierra 125 GR JHC bullets.

Recommendations on how many grains of Unique to achieve a somewhat (okay, very) light load for my first experiences with this new addition? Just looking for a starting point, and can build up to +P stuff from there. I can also change bullet types, based on any input you guys have, etc.

Thanks in advance! Steven

[Jim Watson]

Unique powder is not the best for light loads.
Look in Alliant data and use 90% of their top standard pressure load for that bullet weight.

My usual load in .38 Special with whatever powder and bullet is the top load shown that does not get into +P category. Except target wadcutters, of course.

[kernal_panic]

its not what the bullet is made out of its how much crimp. i'd use a moderate crimp with that gun. its light so it is going to be whippy with loads. if you get into casting the lyman 358242 121 grn mold or the same mold marked 356242 121 grn will make a nice bullet to duplicate factory +p loads with. hp38 , bullesys, and 231 are good choices of powder as is accurate #2

[GooseGestapo]

Actually, the Unique will work quite well in your snubbie.

I recommend you try 3.5gr for your first efforts. This is a light load and if you moderatly crimp a 158swc or 148wad-cutter, this will give a load that should shoot close to POA/POI (aim/impact).

I have a 3" .38 Ti-kit gun (m337 with adj. sights), and when I first got it, after doing a trigger job, set about to trying different loads. I found that the usual 4.0gr of Win231 or 4.3gr of Unique or Clays-Universal did their usual magic.

I tried some +P 158gr SWC-HP to see if indeed I would get some bullet walking from the brass, BUT DID NOT !! However the bullet was a cast slug with a crimp groove and moderate crimp.

The walking problem WILL occur if you're using a SWAGED bullet such as the STAR's, or ZERO type bullets and heavier loads (ie: +p equivalent). These bullets are designed for a taper-crimp onto the forward edge of the bullet leaving the leaving the leading edge of the front driving band exposed, or with the wadcutters- a flush seating with taper crimp.

I suppose that it has been seen (bullet movement) and was S&W's position that it was less likely with the lighter jacketed bullets with case crimped into a cannulure of a jacketed bullet. Also, jacketed bullets have a greater coefficient of friction due to the jacket material and absence of bullet lubricants to prevent leading of lead bullets.

Also, because of the greatly reduced gun weight- point of aim/impact is more affected by bullet weight and velocity. The factory probably took the design philosophy that the higher velocity of the jacketed bullets of lighter weight constituted the better compromise. This will mean that the guns may shoot substantially above the poi/poa with the factory sight height- as the handgun starts recoiling before the bullet has left the barrel- hence the greater recoil of the heavier-slower bullets will exit the barrel at a greater angle in the recoil cycle causing a higher bullet strike on the target.

You should start with the 3.5gr of Unique and work up till the point of aim/impact is closest to what you desire. The velocity of this load will be in the 600fps range and is a light load. Raising the velocity increases the recoil and will raise the POI. Conversly, lowering bullet weight lowers POI. Also, you will notice a small amout of horizontal shift because of changes in the torque of the recoil twisting the gun in hand. The higher the bullet weight/velocity- the greater the torque. With a right hand twist- torque is to left; to right with left hand twist- ala 1911 Colt.

Suggestion: With the SWC or WC bullets; crimping with a roll crimp over the foward edge of the driving band will give the best retention of the bullet. Also be sure you have sufficient case tension as this is more significant than the crimp level. With the slightly deeper bullet seating- if you do get bullet movement- it has further to go before the bullet ties up the cylinder rotation.

In my experience- about 3.6gr of Win231 or 4.0gr of Unique/Universal will give you all the recoil you'll want for practice and will be adequate for all but Self Defense needs. Also- these normally shoot very close to POI/POA.

However that stated: I usually use 3.2gr of Bullseye. Superior accuracy, greater economy, and I usually have 5-10lbs on hand for loading competition .38 ammo.

[Johnny Guest]

Welcome to THR, Steven1281 - - -
Hope we see a lot of you.

Congratulations on your acquisition of your little revolver. I believe the lightweight J-frame is just about the premier pocket piece to be had - - A near perfect balance of power, compactness, and, due to the lightness, convenience and portability. Not the easiest handgun to shoot well, nor the most powerful, but, as always, the handgun you have WITH you beats any of 'em left under the car seat, or at home in the safe. :p

Like GooseGestapo, I must respectfully disagree with Jim Watson. I agree completely with starting out with 3.5 gr. of Unique and the 148 WC or 158 in either LRN or LSWC. This is a fairly mild load.

My own everyday practice load in my S&W M37 and Colt Agent is the 158 LRN with 4.0 of 231. This bullet enables me to tell at a glance that this is my load especially for the alloy framed pieces. I see no profit in reducing their longevity and also stinging my hand. I can get plenty of point-and-shoot drill with the lighter load, and at close range, the point of impact is near enough to that of my "social interaction" load. For the latter, I use the Remington 158 LSWCHP+P, and to heck with the wear and tear on the gun! I shoot a cylinderful a couple of times a year, just to remind myself that this can be serious business. ;)

I am keeping an open mind concerning the new Gold Dot 135 gr. factory loads. It looks good on paper for snubby revolvers, but I await some field reports. In the meantime, the 158 LSWCHP+P has an outstanding track record, even from the two-inch tubes.

Good luck to you, and best regards to all - - -
Johnny

[labgrade]

Can't recommend more highly a 148 gr HBWC & 2.7 grs Bullseye.

A superb target load & quite the small game-getter too boot.

Seat flush, with a minimal roll crimp over the bullet.

Not a defense load (by most accounts) but in .38, it's the load I shoot about 99% .... works well out of every .357 I've shot as well.

[ColtShooter]

I used to use Unique in my 637 but I got tired of the soot build-up. I now use 3.6gr Clays and a 125 Winchester JHP. It shoots very clean and is cheap to load.

[Steven1281]

Thanks for all the input guys! I finally managed to put a few rounds through the new S&W model 637 this morning. I must admit, this one looks like a keeper for awhile. Fifty bangs attempted, fifty bangs heard.

I started with 3.8 grains of Unique powder pushing a 125 gr partially jacketed hollow point. Way low on pressure.... I worked up to a 5.7 grain load on the same bullet (suggested load in the Speer manual), and found recoil/etc comparable to my 9mm steel frame Star BM using my normal target loads. Granted I wasn't near the +P pressures, but I found that there won't be a reason not to consistently practice with this weapon using reasonable loads. My biggest regret is that I didn't load more brass to bring with me!

No bullet creep or bad experiences at all. Would like to experiment with different powders as you guys have suggested, etc.

Thanks again, I appreciate everyone's input!