Where to find a .275" barrel link?


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agony
April 21, 2004, 08:45 PM
I was reading Tuner's awesome FAQ and my Kimber certainly suffers from Stem Bind.

Looks like Brownell's/Midway/Natchez/Wilson Combat doesn't offer the .275" barrel link.

Anyone know of a place to order one?

My Kimber thanks you.
:)

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valor1
April 21, 2004, 10:17 PM
have you trued Dawson Precision, Ed Brown, Shooters Connection and Speed Shooter International?

Jim Watson
April 21, 2004, 10:20 PM
Standard is .278"
So a Marvel -3 would be .275"
Brownell's 583-012-003
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8836&title=1911+AUTO+BARREL+LINK&s=21885#21885

1911Tuner
April 22, 2004, 01:11 PM
Howdy agony,

Wilson's links are numbered. #3 is .278 and #2 is .273...so the Marvel
-3 is your link, like Jim said.

Go up and read the reply that I posted to andrew's question on stem-bind
before you put the short link in the gun. You may not need it to correct
your stem bind condition.

With light stem bind issues, I normally just egg-shape the slidestop pin
hole a little to get the pin closer to the barrel lug. Remove material from the top of the hole, closest to the lug. You can take as much as .005 inch without affecting the linkdown timing. You can use a drill rod with 320-grit
wet or dry paper. Just be sure to follow the hole's radius and keep it square from side to side.

I use a Dremel with a .200 diameter chainsaw sharpening stone...but be
REEEEAL careful with a Dremel. Light touch! If you overheat the link,
you'll draw the steel and soften it. Keep the stone moving in a swinging
motion, and check the amount of removal every 1 or 2 seconds of cutting time.

Luck!

Tuner

agony
April 22, 2004, 06:49 PM
Thanks a bunch guys!
I'm going to do a little more investigating regarding the 3-point failure.

Tuner, does this sound reasonable:

How do I check to see if the extractor has too much tension in it?
If it's okay, and if I smoothed both the breech face and the upper throat of the barrel, and I still get the 'crescent shape' on the brass, then I definitely need to go with a shorter link.

(Or should I just plunk down a couple hundred and let Novak work on my pistol? ;) )

Jim Watson
April 22, 2004, 07:07 PM
I'd look at the chamber mouth for a sharp corner. It is easy to program a CNC machine to ream a chamber and grind a ramp angle; but it is pretty hard to convince that machine to round and polish the corner.

1911Tuner
April 22, 2004, 09:17 PM
Howdy agony,

Use the tip of a good pocketknife to lightly scrape the top of the throat.
All you want to do is break the sharp corner at about 45 degrees from perpendicular. Smooth it up with a piece of 600-grit wet/dry paper.
Resist the temptation to lower the throat more than just a tiny bit.
If a little is good, a lot AIN'T gooder...:p

Check the extractor tension by letting a round champer from slidelock at
full speed. A dummy round is safest, but you can use a live round if you're CAREFUL.

Drop the magazine, and slowly pull the slide back to extract the round
enough to clear the chamber. The round should sag as it comes out, but
should stay put on the breechface when you shake the pistol up and down
3-4 times. If it falls down the magwell, the tension is too light. If it doesn't
sag, there's too much tension.

This is assuming that the hook is the correct length...about .032-.035 inch...
and the bottom wall of the hook is correctly beveled to allow the rim to cam it open. I like a light radius on the bottom corner of the hook to keep it
from digging into the case inside the extractor groove, and some gun/extractor combinations need a light angle on the backside of the
hook to get the rim past that area. I also lightly bevel the front of the hook at the bottom to allow a little more clearance at the front of the
extractor groove in the case. This allows for different case dimensions, and
is a "fine tuning" step that most guns won't need. I do it mainly to throw
another curve at our friend Murphy. It only takes a minute or so, and doesn't cost anything...so why not?

To polish the breechface, use a piece of 600-grit paper on a popsicle stick
that's been whittled down to the right width. No need to try to completely remove deep toolmarks...just knock the sharp edges off. Fingernail check
it for the burrs, and pay particular attention to the firing pin hole.

Luck!

Tuner

agony
April 22, 2004, 09:37 PM
Okay, the dummy round 'sags' and doesn't fall down the magwell when shaken. So I think the extractor tension is good.

Also it looks like the top of the chamber mouth is already beveled at a 45degree angle.

As a side note; I prefer running handloads through my pistols. Most of my pistols (SIG 220s/HKs/SIG GSR) feed my loads flawlessly. The Kimber has been problematic, in that it is the only pistol I've owned that 'stem binds.' I run plated and jacketed bullets only...either 230gr FMJ full power factory copies, or 185gr FMJ and 185gr JSWC bullets. I've experimented with many different loads for this pistol, and they all fail. I've tried multiple mags to no avail. It even chokes sometimes on factory ball. No wonder I got a good deal on it. :)


thanks Tuner, you got PM.
:)

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