Brownells Gun Kote


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Blueduck
April 24, 2004, 12:00 AM
This stuff has been touched on in a few recent threads, but maybe someone has some in depth details or even pics????

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yankytrash
April 24, 2004, 07:54 AM
I've done the majority of my guns with the stuff.

For a guy like me, the stuff is exactly what I was looking for. Easy to use, and protects the metal from rust. Then again, I'm not much on looks, I go for practicality.

Sprays on just like regular ol' Krylon spraypaint. Strip the gun down to the parts you want to spray (or don't - doesn't matter if you just remove the stocks and spray what you can see like in the case of my 1885 Browning Low Wall). Scrub'r down with paint thinner, or the likes, to be sure all grease & oil is gone. Spray two coats - THIN!!! If the gun's cold, you might want to heat it up a little in the oven (set it to "Warm") before spraying - makes it flatten out nicer.

Tip - be ready to start madly waving the part around in the air after you spray it, without actually touching any of the surfaces you just painted. It WILL stick to the newspaper/dropcloth until it dries to the touch - about 4 or 5 minutes. Also, waving it around, twisting and turning the freshly-sprayed part, will prevent runs in any spots you hit a little too heavy. On your first one, the latter will definitely happen - this stuff is a little thicker than normal enamel-type spray paints.

Let dry 30 minutes between the two coats. Let dry 30 minutes after the last coat. Put the pieces in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes.

- !!NOTE!! -
You did make sure the parts will fit in your oven before you started spraying it, didn't you? ;)

The oven action not only bakes the paintjob, it opens the pores of the metal to let the Teflon coating sink in, real permanant-like.

When it's done, let it cool, put'r together, and go shootin.


The gun will look awesome. Nice even matte finish, you'll almost be afraid to shoot it it'll look so nice. That fear is not unfounded - the paint layer chips off on guns that see use. Holstered pistols, truck guns, competition guns, and varminters will look like a cheaply sprayed Krylon job in a week or two's time (with use). However, it will not rust, ever. Not in my experience anyway. Here in the humid south and right near the ocean, that's huge issue for me.

In all - eventually will look ugly, and will dramatically decrease a gun's value if either one of those is an issue, but you'll have a gun you don't have to worry about rusting anymore. As an added bonus, the Teflon that impregnates the metal makes the times between greazins longer, if not non-existent.


I like it. The lazyman's answer to the elaborate processes of blueing, and the poorman's answer to hard chrome.


'course, I ain't brushed my teeth in a few either...

Blueduck
April 24, 2004, 12:36 PM
Thanks for great report. Sounds like it's not for the gun I was thinking of, but I can certainly see the use for s0ome others down the road.

Really appreciate it :)

Old Fuff
April 24, 2004, 12:38 PM
I agree with most of what “yankytrash” said, but would add:

If you have someone bead-blast the parts first the coating will adhere better. In addition, if you bead-blast and then phosphate coat (Parkerize) the carbon steel parts the coating will stick even better. You can do the phosphating at home on a kitchen stove, or outside on a camp stove. One obvious advantage of this finish is that you can coat dissimilar metals such as steel (including stainless) and aluminum.

IamV
April 25, 2004, 03:51 PM
hi-

since yankytrash and fuff did a great job with the descriptions, i thought i'd provide some samples of applied gunkote..

here's the first gun i ever treated..it was my brothers 1911 "beater"... not a great job, but i just wanted to show how it wears.. i treated this gun a little over a year ago.... i like to think of it as my b@st@rd version of Wilson's CQB :)
(colt cqb 1) (http://home.san.rr.com/voo/colt/Colt CQB.JPG)
(colt cqb 2) (http://home.san.rr.com/voo/colt/Colt CQB2.JPG)

..and here's my friends AK that i did a few weeks ago.. the original parkerizing is still under it.. which as fuff pointed out, gives the finish something to grip onto..(btw the charging bolt, trigger, and pivot pins are not treated, so they have a different sheen)
(ak74 1) (http://home.san.rr.com/voo/colt/ak.JPG)
(ak74 2) (http://home.san.rr.com/voo/colt/ak2.JPG)

I didnt sand/smooth down the surfaces as i just wanted it coated and rust-protected..so you should realize it will show machine/tooling/scratch marks if you dont clean them up first..

Im a jackass for not taking pictures of them for a "before and after" comparison.. but hopefully you get a general idea of how it looks or can look..

one other thing i'd like to add is that gunkote does a FANTASTIC job of keeping the rust off. Ive treated all my factory sigsauer mags and once i get my parkering tank set up again, i plan on doing my m14 mags as well...so far i havent seen any rust on any of my treated mags even though the finish is worn and/or scratched off.. so far the best use that i've come across for this stuff is rust-proofing my magazines and clips..

hope this helps visually...

v.

Blueduck
April 25, 2004, 04:22 PM
Thanks for the advice from old fluff, and special thanks to you IamV for taking the time to post pics.

appreciate the help :)

Harold Mayo
April 26, 2004, 03:26 PM
Instead of using aerosol cans of the stuff, you can buy it in regular non-pressurized cans and use a hobbyist's airbrush to apply it. If you do this, you won't get the runs and air bubbles that seem too common when you use the aerosol cans. You can also heat the parts with a hair dryer so that they are just a little warm and then the GunKote will dry immediately when it hits them.

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